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I am new to building SIB and need recommendations on thread.  "A" thread and #24 are recommended in building John Fox's III Bluenose but where do you purchase such thread?  It seems that most use fly tying thread, but is there a certain kind?  Fly tying thread seems to separate on me.  Where do you purchase your thread from?  Your advice would be appreciated.  TNX

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18 hours ago, Bobohamer said:

I am new to building SIB and need recommendations on thread.  "A" thread and #24 are recommended in building John Fox's III Bluenose but where do you purchase such thread?  It seems that most use fly tying thread, but is there a certain kind?  Fly tying thread seems to separate on me.  Where do you purchase your thread from?  Your advice would be appreciated.  TNX

Fly tying threads are the best if you are building small and to scale, as much as possible anyway. I don't have the URL for a site, but to keep from thread separation purchase waxed thread, but drag it through a tissue or cloth to remove most of the wax, otherwise it will build up when the thread is pulled through a hole or block. I tend to use very fine, 8/0, 10/0 or thinner, i.e. higher number, and look online to find mono thread for the most part. This thread is a single fiber, so there is no separation.

Hope that helps! If I run across the site where I got mine I will update and send along the URL.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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I buy my fly tying/ fly fishing materials from J Stockard Fly Flishing @ JSflyfishing.com

I also go to my local sporting goods, outdoorsman shop. Like Mr.Fox said, 3/0, 6/0, 8/0 size. Black, tan, brown, white (for stripe). Waxed is good. I rewax EVERY line again because drilled holes are rough, not smooth on the thread and will fray it when the thread moves in and out. Stockard has beeswax. 

I've  also learned to  run the thread through the wax (I use a block of beeswax I got from a beekeeper) before threading the needle. The needle tends to strip odd the excess wax.  

I just checked for you, thread is in category "fly tying materials."

 

All the best, 

Jeff

Edited by Jeff B
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To smooth out the inside of drilled holes or take them up to a larger size, use small 'cutting broaches'. These look like small needles with a tiny handle on the end, but are tapered with a pentagonal cross section. You use them by inserting the chosen size into the hole and 'twirling' the broach which then gently and smoothly enlarges the hole as required. They are available in small sizes. There is a similar broach called a 'smoothing broach' which just burnishes a hole in metal, and won't work on wood. Search the web for a deal as jewellers ones can be expensive. The link shows an example of what they look like. 

Example of broaches.

Stay safe all

Alan

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32 minutes ago, exwafoo said:

To smooth out the inside of drilled holes or take them up to a larger size, use small 'cutting broaches'. These look like small needles with a tiny handle on the end, but are tapered with a pentagonal cross section. You use them by inserting the chosen size into the hole and 'twirling' the broach which then gently and smoothly enlarges the hole as required. They are available in small sizes. There is a similar broach called a 'smoothing broach' which just burnishes a hole in metal, and won't work on wood. Search the web for a deal as jewellers ones can be expensive. The link shows an example of what they look like. 

Example of broaches.

Stay safe all

Alan

Good idea, except it's a direct violation of the  This Hobby Is Not Going To Cost Any Money Treaty, made with Mama Bear.😀

Jeff

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Hi All,

I've not done a lot of SIB'ing, but I thought that waxed thread and glue, CA or otherwise,  would be incompatible.

At the moment I'm using un-waxed Uni thread, (fly tying thread), but as Jeff commented, waxed thread would run through holes and blocks easier.

So can waxed thread be glued successfully?

Thanks 

Mick.

 

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Mick-. 

My advice, glue every knot. 

Be careful not to get it on the rigging as it put unusual bends in it that won't allow it to appear tight. 

 

CA glue can be used, but keep in mind it fogs up the bottle and may do so for some time. Best to stand the bottle on end to ventilate it. Keep the cork loose for a month or so. You may need to go back in and clean that fog . A swab and acetone (Fingernail polish remover) will do the trick. 

When running lines through the  bowsprit or through blocks at there, I use CA glue to secure them.  

I put a small fold on my paper sails to attach to the lines and use "puzzle glue" on the line.  I get it from a craft store. It's for hardening puzzles so they can be framed. People do that, I reckon. 

Others may do things differently. 

All the best.          

Edited by Jeff B
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