Jump to content
Bottled Ship Builder

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Yesterday
  2. 1,000 views at last, and only 7 likes - not exactly a great success in the popularity stakes! 😀
  3. Donald Campbell’s Bluebird K7, on Coniston water,January 1967.
  4. Last week
  5. Greetings Dan, You are more than welcome! Glad you found the presentation and our talk useful and inspirational! I was happy to share the pinch bottles with someone, since I knew I would not use them. Good luck with your next project, looking forward to seeing what it is and how it develops. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  6. Just got back from the Wisconsin Maritime Museum's 2022 Model Ships & Boats Contest and Show. As usually, it was a wonderful time with lots of great modelers, models and discussions. I want to publicly thank John Fox. We had a chance to talk and he gave me some great ideas -- and motivation -- for my next ship in a bottle. AND he gave me two Dimple Pinch bottles! That was really generous and I will definitely make use of those in the future. Thanks, John! Dan
  7. Earlier
  8. Good idea, Alan! Please keep us informed about your experiments.
  9. Hi All, Further to the above discussion on adhesives, I have been experimenting with an adhesive called Paraloid B72. I first saw this used on a Youtube Video of conservators at the British Museum doing some work on artefacts. A bit of research provided the following: Paraloid B72 is a glass-clear, non-yellowing, soluble plastic. It is a conservation grade adhesive and lacquer. The joint can be undone by the use of a drop of Acetone. Supplied as beads, it is dissolved in Acetone to produce the required consistency:- In 50ml Acetone; 5gm makes 10% lacquer 10gm makes 20% lacquer 25gm makes 50% adhesive In use, I got a couple of laboratory flasks with ground glass stoppers to mix in. I use pure Acetone from the Pharmacist, not nail varnish remover that has other ‘stuff’ in it. I have two mixes, the 10% and 50% and use the 10% for fixing knots, stiffening thread, etc. The 50% mix I use for gluing up other stuff. It does not set straight away, so you get a bit of work time. So far, I’ve been quite pleased with it. Like most glues, the pieces have to be set aside to dry. There have been a couple of failures, probably my fault somehow. The flasks need topping up with acetone now and again due to evaporation, so I marked the full mix level with indelible marker, only to find Acetone dissolved it if I spilt any on it, so a slight scratch with a sharpening stone does the job now. The big advantage I’ve found, is that unlike CA glue, it does not stick to me. Time will tell if I keep on using it. Best Alan
  10. Hi All, Interesting conversation. I have found that tapering the peg and using an air escape hole (usually has a thread glued to the end of the peg to assist in getting the peg to locate in the hole passing through it) helps considerably. The other thing I do is reduce the length of the peg just before putting in the bottle, its fine when building it when constant assembly/dissassembly may be required, but once in and glued up I don't think the full peg length is required. Once the hull pieces are in and located together, I place a small drop of thin CA glue on the hull joint in several places. It wicks in and is enough to give a good join. Best Alan
  11. I have had the issue with white glue swelling the wood making things fit too tight compared to when it was dry. I have used metal wire instead of wood pegs or I would sometimes taper the end of the peg making it easier to start in the hole with the rest of the peg very slightly scraped a little narrower to allow for the swelling. This probably does the same thing as the grove John was talking about. Jesse
  12. Greetings Andrew, One thing to consider when gluing the pegs into holes is that air is trapped below the peg. One thing I do is score or cut a groove in the peg, so that as it's pushed into the hole air can escape through the groove. I've used both types of glues, and have had similar problems in the past when attaching upper to lower hull parts. The grooves help, but are not the perfect solution. Although much more difficult to do, one could place small blocks on the lower hull, just inside the edge of the hollowed out area on the underside of the upper hull, assuming one hollows out the area to run rigging lines through. Those blocks could align the upper hull as it's lowered so small pegs could be used to alleviate the air being trapped. I have never tried this, but just might if/when I build another bottle or light bulb model. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  13. I use white glue as well but haven’t really had any problems with it except that the hulls have to be joined together pretty quickly. I have never used epoxy to join them, that sounds a bit scary! To avoid expansion of the holes or dowels (cocktail sticks?) you could try using metal dowels cut from metal coat hangers. They are a slightly larger diameter than cocktail sticks but not greatly so. I’ve used them a couple of times and they work okay. onni
  14. Hi all, Here is a question that I've been mulling over. What sort of glue or approach is best when gluing sections of hull together in the bottle, when the hulls are aligned by dowels in one piece that fit into holes in the other. I ask this, because I had two problems. The first was when I used dilute white glue, but this expanded the hole or post or both, so that the fit was very tight, and I was very lucky to get the two hull pieces together. The second problem was when I used 5-min epoxy, which I thought would not absorb into the wood, but then I think a touch of it got out of the holes, and between the two hull pieces, leaving a small permanent gap between my hull peices. I like a ship in the bottle, because the optical distortion of the glass is pretty forgiving for the odd imperfections, but what sort of glue do people usually use? Best wishes, Andy
  15. Hi Dan, Thats a nice looking ship. Everything looks nice and crisp, and I like the detail on the foresail. Let us know if you find a good clear resin and way to color it. I used a resin I had around from a canoe repair, but it started off sort of brown, and the result was not great. I'm not sure where to get the clear stuff. Andy
  16. Greetings Dan, Can't help you with fake water/sea, never use that in any of my modeling efforts. I prefer to model the full hull, detailed model, and nothing else besides some sort of stand for the model inside the bottle or light bulb. Good luck with your efforts in that direction! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  17. That's the plan, John! I've been working over the past week or so to figure out the "sea." I wanted to use an epoxy resin for the base, then silicone for the waves. I haven't been able to make resin that looks good. The first 0.5 oz batch I made was really dark. I used acrylic paint as a colorant. So, last night, I got some actual acrylic resin tinting agent and tried that. Looks alright this morning, but it's still not set up completely, so we'll see. I'm starting to think just using the silicone might be the right way to go. There's really not much room for the sea in the bottle, so I can probably just add small amounts of tinted caulk and then paint the whitecaps on the waves. Once that's done, I'll need to make a more attractive cradle. I bought a nice piece of mahogany a while back that will look really good. Dan
  18. Thanks, John! Really looking forward to your talk in Manitowoc this year! I think I've solved the problem: file size. When I reduced the size, everything went fine. Dan
  19. Welcome Dan! Hopefully some our tech-savy members can help you work out the photo issue, would like to see them. Jesse
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...