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Bottled Ship Builder

John Fox III

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Everything posted by John Fox III

  1. Greetings Jeff, Well, thank you for the honor of being recognized! Sounds like a plan to me, it's all here so just a notice pointing to the ongoing article should work fine. And, yes, everyone is suffering from the CV-19 pandemic, it's not like my classic 60'-70's soft rock is all that popular except for the few older people like myself. Most of that work is practice to keep in shape and remember all the lyrics and chords, but do make a few music videos for my friends. Thanks for the honor! Anchor's A Weigh! John
  2. Greetings Jeff, First, thanks for the kind words. The postings I have been making on the card/paper model experiments is written as a single article, as a MS Word document file. I simply copy and paste it into this and the NRG Model Ship World postings. I write it as I work and photograph, sometimes takes a while between writing sessions due to experiments that don't work out or simply take a long time to work out. At present the .doc file is 37 pages, nearly 35MB, including separate files of the photos. I am far from finishing the experimenting or the article, so have no no idea how lar
  3. Greetings Bernard, I use both hand when rolling the paper around the tube, one near each end, but also move them into the middle occasionally. When it start going ascrew, I loosen it up just a wee bit and correct it as I reroll the paper. Thanks for the comment, I do try! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  4. Greetings All, Work on the second hull continued with the start of a first layer of planking. This time I used well saturated cardboard that was thinner than that used on the first hull. These planks were stiffer, but also much more brittle. I also changed things up a little by using a white card stock, also saturated with thinned poly varnish, to delineate the waterline. The following photos show this work in progress. One thing to note is that this time I did not fill in the bow and stern areas with solid card stock, not sure if it was a good idea or not, it make planking mu
  5. Greetings Mikey, Had that happen a few times in all the models I have built. My solution was to break the bottle, carefully, remove the model, then fix it all up. I would then buy or build a small case for the finished model. Not the ship in bottle I intended, but it saved all that work and still made for a nice model presentation. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  6. Greetings Omni, Yes, twisting of the keel is a problem with any bulkhead type of model. I had previously made one in styrene plastic, but there I made the bottom of the keel, center piece, deeper than needed, and used a wooden board with a slot to keep it all straight. Patience, as I often tell people who comment on my models in person, is something you need when you are doing something you don't like, I LOVE what I do so time doesn't matter. Anchor's A Weigh! John
  7. Greetings All, Before continuing with this build article I would like to review some of what I've learned, and how it affects the work as it progresses. First of all I have learned that I need to soak/saturate the card stock from packaging much better. Originally I only used multiple painted coats of thinned poly varnish to do this work. I was only saturating the uncolored side, which is in effect sealed off by the printing. I have since learned to sand the colored side of the card stock, using 320 grit sandpaper and a small wood block, to roughen up the surface and remove as
  8. A piece of thinner cardboard was then soaked in a bath of maple stain, to saturate it completely and evenly with color. I had tried just brushing stain on the board first, but the colorization was too uneven. Lines were then drawn on the board, spaced 1/32" apart, and the thin board templates used to trace the shape of the decks onto the stained board. These were cut out and tested to fit in their places, but not glued down yet. I also traced the outside edges of the main, lower, deck onto a non-lined area of the stained board and cut waterways for the hull. Following photos show some of this
  9. Greetings All, The work on the card and paper clipper model continued with quite a few more sealing and sanding, with small amounts of Bondo. Once I had a decent hull I made up the keel, stem and stern posts out of multiple layers of board. After reading more online about card models I learned to saturate the card stock with thinned down poly varnish, in order to make it stiffer and less prone to fraying when sanding. It also made cutting a wee bit harder, but worth the effort as it shapes up nicer when saturated. I did this by using a large art paint brush an
  10. Greetings All, The work on the hull progressed by sanding down all the planking, to get as smooth and fair a surface as I could. I sanded, then applied poly varnish thinned 50/50 with paint thinner until it no longer soaked in. Waited for the varnish to dry, then sanded again. I repeated this process many times. While sanding I could see areas where the planks pushed inwards slightly, and small gaps in the finish. I used Bondo glazing and spot putty, applied with a stiff piece of styrene plastic, to cover the gaps and low spots. Again, after Bondo dried the hull was sealed and sanded. I d
  11. Greetings Bernard, Thanks! And, yes, it is fiddly for sure. Because this was an experiment, I did not photograph the really fiddly parts, like cutting all the bulkheads and such. I am already working on an improved plan, and have photographed all the bulkheads and other pieces, but that is all for future posts. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  12. Continuing on with my card/paper Flying Cloud model build. The next step was to fill in between bulkheads and keel at the bow and stern with layers of board cut to fit as I added them. Photos below shows the results after cutting and shaping them a bit, and applying CA glue to harden them. I also started sanding the bulkheads edges to fair in the hull shape. What I found was that in many places the weaker inner parts of the board would splay the outer harder parts outward as I sanded. I continued sanding and fairing the hull, had to apply CA glue between each sanding session.
  13. Thanks Donald! It is easier than wood for some things, but more difficult for others. At least working with untreated card stock so far I find it lacks stiffness where one would like/need it, but it is easier to cut. Having no grain it certainly makes cutting curved surfaces much easier, and the pieces don't split as often happens with miniature wood parts.
  14. I've been intrigued lately when viewing build logs on the NRG web site, among other places. Decided I would give it a try and see how it all works. I started by viewing the vast number of CAD ship plans I've developed over 40 years of modeling sailing vessels. I was interested in something fairly simply, but one I had enough information already drawn up in plans. I ended up settling on the clipper Flying Cloud. I drew up the plans 27 years ago for a ship in bottle model at 1:750 scale. For a card/paper model I decided on a scale of 1:350, making the hull slightly over 8" long.
  15. Amazing amount of fine detailing, excellent job portraying the ship! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  16. Thanks Alan! Always glad to share a new idea or technique, the more we share the more we learn from each other! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  17. Thanks! There are some views of the finished hull posted in the Block postings I made earlier. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  18. Sure is looking good so far! Good luck in the bottle!! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  19. Thanks Bernard! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  20. Thanks! Though it's not an s-i-b, some of the info might be useful for those who build them. The idea should work on any hull without tumblehome. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  21. Greetings All, Last installment of my paper hull project. Lots of photos today. First few show the hull as the deck was planked over the deck beams, using 0.015" thick maple veneer. The deck was then sanded and varnished, after which it was cut to just a bit beyond the edges of the hull. I then used a small drill bit to drill multiple holes a bit inside the outline of the cockpit opening traced on the deck, and carefully cut through the veneer and beams and supports to open the cockpit area. I used an X-acto knife and #11 blade to do this, and then carefully cut to the outlined cockpit op
  22. Greetings All, Onward and upward with the paper hull work. First photo shows the deck beams and horizontal support pieces, made from 1/16" thick basswood, 1/8" wide. The deck beams are all cut to the curve of the deck, the support pieces are just straight. Second photo shows the deck beams glued in place, they are individually cut to fit at their locations, third and fourth photo shows them at different angles. The last two photos shows the support pieces glued in place, they keep the deck beams from twisting while sanding them all even to the bottom of the deck level. There is nothing sp
  23. Thanks Mick! I do try! Anchor's A Weigh! John
  24. Greetings All, Further progress on my paper hull project was to make a floor piece of maple veneer. I printed out a copy of the floor from my plans and glued it to a piece of maple veneer. I carefully cut it out, then used 0.015" maple veneer cut into strips 1/32" wide pieces and glued them to the floor underside. I did sand off the print paper before adding the strips. These strips are fake frames that the grating made in another odds and ends bit I did to sit on. This floor was then glued into the hull, and glued to the inner keel piece. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
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