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Bottled Ship Builder

John Fox III

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Everything posted by John Fox III

  1. Greetings Alvaro, Welcome aboard! Keep in mind that we all started in the same place, we all had a first ship in bottle model. Look around the forum and you can find all sorts of good ideas. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  2. Greetings All, The following photos show how I made the 12 pdr. cannon and 32 pdr. carronades for my 1:200 scale model of Niagara/Lawrence. Both barrels are made from paper tightly rolled around an appropriate sized drill bit shank, saturated with CA glue, then sanded to shape. It did take multiple applications of the glue, as it could only penetrate one or two layers of the rolled paper. I used standard inkjet printer paper, soaked in ink jet ink, I had a spare cartridge for my printer so used that for the ink. The carraiges and slides were made from maple. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  3. Greetings Dan, Good for you! That is the exact reason I always build full hull ship models. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  4. Greetings Dan, You are more than welcome! Glad you found the presentation and our talk useful and inspirational! I was happy to share the pinch bottles with someone, since I knew I would not use them. Good luck with your next project, looking forward to seeing what it is and how it develops. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  5. Greetings Andrew, One thing to consider when gluing the pegs into holes is that air is trapped below the peg. One thing I do is score or cut a groove in the peg, so that as it's pushed into the hole air can escape through the groove. I've used both types of glues, and have had similar problems in the past when attaching upper to lower hull parts. The grooves help, but are not the perfect solution. Although much more difficult to do, one could place small blocks on the lower hull, just inside the edge of the hollowed out area on the underside of the upper hull, assuming one hollows out the area to run rigging lines through. Those blocks could align the upper hull as it's lowered so small pegs could be used to alleviate the air being trapped. I have never tried this, but just might if/when I build another bottle or light bulb model. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  6. Greetings Dan, Can't help you with fake water/sea, never use that in any of my modeling efforts. I prefer to model the full hull, detailed model, and nothing else besides some sort of stand for the model inside the bottle or light bulb. Good luck with your efforts in that direction! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  7. Greetings Dan, Not sure what your problem with photos is, but when I first tried I had problems too. I normally store my photo files as .tiff files, as they are uncompressed. That did not work for me when trying to upload, so I changed the file type to .jpeg/.jpg, and reduced the size to 1048x764, then it worked fine for me. Welcome aboard! Have fun looking around! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  8. Greetings Andrew, The veneer was obtained because I lived within a few miles of a factory that used a huge lathe type machine to turn whole logs while a sharp blade was placed against the log, removing thin slices. They made the facing for hollow core doors this way. I managed to get a foot high pile of pieces cut out due to knots, about 12" x 18". That being said, that method of making veneer has it's drawbacks, i.e. the wood is very rough, and often cracks easily. As to the planking, the deck planking is pretty well correct. However, the outside hull planking is definitely not the proper methodology. There would never have been planks that end in a point, proper planking never has planks that taper to less than half the width of the planks. It's been so long since I actually planked a hull properly, that I forgot that until I had planked too much to correct it. If one were going to paint the hull, then it would not matter, but I do not plan to paint my hull. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  9. Greetings All, Here are a few pics of my work on 1813 US brig Niagara. Scale is 1:200. She has a solid carved hull, planked with maple veneer. Apple wood stem and stern post, as well as keel. The cap rail is maple veneer, 3 layers. Grating is maple veneer. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  10. Greetings Patch, We all started from the same point, no experience and a lot of experimentation. With modern internet access, you may be able to find some plans that would suit for your proposed model. My own interests don't go there, so I can't help with any directions, but have found that most things can be found if you search diligently online. Good luck! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  11. Greetings Andrew, Very nicely done indeed! For a fist s-i-b model it is quite remarkable. Considering the first three I built went into the garbage can before anyone but me saw them! <G> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  12. I agree, very nicely done Igor!!! Putting an unattached mast/sails/rigging in a bottle/bulb is probably the most difficult sib work, and you pulled it off perfectly!
  13. Greetings, Looks like a good start! Good luck with the build. Plenty of people around here can help you if you run into difficulties not covered in the book. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  14. Welcome aboard Mils! Great bunch of fellow s-i-b modelers here. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  15. So romantic and a true work of love! Congratulations on the job well done! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  16. Greetings Alan, It was indeed a learning experience, glad I did it. I guess you are correct, attempting to find ways to make paper do what I am used to wood doing, perhaps not the best approach. I've seen some amazing card stock ship models, must take a slightly different approach to achieve that level. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  17. Greetings Old Friend, I am glad you enjoyed the experience! <Grin> I am not sure about "patience", to me that is what is needed when doing something I don't like, modeling is a love so I really don't count hours at all. I am just pleased that others find my efforts interesting enough to follow, and perhaps find some things that might "work" for them, or inspire them to try different things. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  18. Greetings Omni, Thanks for the kind words! It was time consuming, mostly the time was spent experimenting with different methods and materials for each step. Once I figured out what worked best, that made things easier to repeat. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  19. My work on experimenting with card/paper model ship building continued with finishing up the second hull, the one with colored card stock second planking. The hull was cut free from the building board by slicing through the bulkheads at the top of the bulwarks. A simpler stand for the hull was made from blue colored card stock. The following photos show the freed second hull in the stand. The photos above show that I also added card stock blocking at the extreme bow and locations for the 3 masts. The multiple longitudinal bulkheads definitely define the deck areas much better than the first hull in my opinion. Work progressed with cutting down the interior edges of the bulwarks, removing the excess stock that was included in the bulkheads to make the hull more stable during planking. I used several tools that I built, made up from pieces of 1/16" interior diameter brass tubing and pieces cut from a single edged razor blade, with wooden handles made from maple. I used a Dremel moto tool with a cut-off wheel to cut the razor blade pieces of various widths at the cutting end. I shaped the other end into shanks that would fit into the brass tubing, then slid them in and glued them in place. These miniature chisels work nicely, and I've used them on many models in the past. The photo above shows how the interior planking of the bulwarks on the first model's hull turned out. I was not happy with these results, the uneven run was the result of not quite having faired the bulkheads properly, and partly due to the miniature clothes pins used to clamp the single piece planking in place. I decided that on the second hull I would experiment in ways to improve these problems. I ended up filling in the gaps between bulkheads with card stock before final sanding the bulkhead interior sanding. This definitely helped even things out, and kept the clamping devices from indenting the interior planking pieces. I did the same thing for the stern of the fore castle deck and fore face of the quarter deck as well. The following photos show this work. I then proceeded to cut away the tops of the bulkheads above my blocking. I decided that with the double layer of planking, the bulwarks would be thick enough with just a single layer of card stock glued inside. The next work was to cut and glue the white interior planking. This was a process of using paper to make templates and then transferring those outlines to the card stock and cutting. These strips and pieces were then glued in place. The results were much better than the first hull at this point. I also drilled the holes for the masts. The following photos show this work. Work continued on this second hull with making paper templates of all the decks. These were traced on stained white card stock and stained white paper with planking lines drawn on it. All of these parts were cut out and fitted to the hull, to make sure they fit properly. I then stained more white card stock, traced the deck parts and cut out some waterways for the model. I was not happy with the way these waterways looked, they were a bit too wide and attempting to cut or sand them thinner just didn't work. I decided to remake the waterways by staining a piece of white paper and then gluing them to card stock and cutting them out. These looked much better, but are still probably a bit too wide for this scale. The decks were then glued to the hull. The following photos show this work, the waterways photo shows the first ones made, I simply forgot to photograph the final waterways. The most challenging work on this second model hull was my next work. I used black card stock to make the cap rail for the hull, in a single piece. I placed the card stock on the top of the model, held it in place with a stiff piece of thick cardboard pressing tightly enough to follow the entire curve of the top of the bulwarks. I traced the outline of the bulwarks onto the stock and cut it out. I used a small compass to then traced a line 1/16" inside the outer edge of the stock. The difficult part was to cut out this inside edge as carefully as I could. I can say that it took 3 attempts to get past this last step, as noted above with the waterways it is nearly impossible to re-cut or sand this thin card stock if any spots were too wide. I did use a black magic marker on the cap rails edges, as this stock has a white interior. The waterways and cap rail were then glued onto the hull. The results are shown in the next photos. At this point I believe I will be ending my card stock and paper modeling efforts. I found it very interesting, and in some cases rewarding, to have attempted this work. My personal conclusions would be that I definitely would rather work with wood, it's more stable and easier to "work" than card stock. I was surprised at how well some things worked, such as making up the masts and yards. But during building and fitting to the second hull I have already broken several of the yards. Saturated construction paper is just too brittle in the end, as I related earlier. If I were to attempt any more card stock modeling I would most definitely use "solid" card stock, this stock has the color saturated through it's interior and not just on the outside faces like the stock I used. I also would probably not hesitate to use paint, or color printed detailing, on any further modeling of this type. I also learned more about bulkhead model work than I had previously known. Making the plans for a bulkhead model from a set of lines plans, using QCAD software, is interesting work, and these card stock models a nice way to test out my methodology. As a parting shot, I did make up the chain plates for the model, but being made of saturated construction paper they were so brittle that I did not bother to add them to the hull. Thanks for your patience in reading my experimentation in card stock modeling. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  20. Greetings Mathias, Welcome aboard! I too build my ships with no sea, or other distractions, for the same reasons that you do. It is often the entire hull shape that most defines a ship/boat. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  21. Greetings Bernard, Thanks! The yard bracket stuff was as close as I could make the parts to what was shown on the plans I have. The laminated black construction paper was quite brittle after using CA to glue the layers, which limited how small I could get some of the parts. As above, lots of work did not work out, so wasn't photographed. I am not entirely sure if either of the two hulls will be completely finished, and don't anticipate rigging or detailing the models at this time. It's all an experiment to learn what can be done with the materials, card stock and paper. I may finish the model, but I may just use the experimenting to build a completely different model in future. I basically need to learn to work with the materials and learn for any future modeling work. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  22. Thanks! I only photograph the stuff that works, quite a few methods did not work. Hopefully my shots and explanation will help others to try what works! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  23. The experiments continued with finishing the colored planking on the second hull. The keel, stem and stern posts were added and covered with the copper colored card stock as well. The entire hull was then coated several times with thinned varnish. The following photos show the hull as it stands now. The majority of my time has been spent making the yards for the masts. It was found that laminating black construction paper worked out the best for their construction. Using liberal amounts of CA glue to laminate the paper, including soaking the outside of the layered pieces. From that point the laminated parts were treated much as I would making yards out of wood. I first sanded them into a square cross section as thick as the center of the yard, then slightly tapered the pieces on either end. Then sanded the yard into a hexagonal cross section throughout. Finally sanding the yard blank round in cross section. As with most of the other paper/card construction, it was necessary occasionally to apply a bit more CA glue when an unsaturated area was encountered. I also noticed that the laminated construction paper was a bit more brittle than most woods, so care was taken. All the upper yards used a simple fitting glued to them in order to attach them to the masts with a bit of fine thread. The crossjack and course yards were attached using a hanging bracket arrangement which was as close as I could get, at the scale and using the material, to what was shown on the plans. I also used two tiny pieces of brass wire in making the brackets, which allow those yards to swing partway around the masts. The final pieces to these yard hangers was fake chain, which was made from 8/0 fly tying thread. The fake chain was made by tying double overhand knot in the center of a length of thread around a #80 drill bit, which was fitted shank side down into a length of wood. The drill bit was then pulled up and removed from the thread loop. A length of the same thread was then tied through the loop and extended down the length of the wood, where it was held mildly tightly with a rubber band wrapped around both wood and length of thread. The thread was then pulled away from the reinserted drill bit, to keep the loop directly opposite the bit while tying a second double overhand knot. It was impossible to keep tying these knots exactly opposite each other, so the fake chain looks a bit "squiggly" when just laying there. It does look fairly realistic when pulled tightly. The fake chain was tied, with a small piece of thread through the first loop, to a small wire eye bolt. The eye bolt was made by twisting a piece of extremely thin wire around a #80 drill bit, using a forceps to twist until the wire broke. This eye bolt was glued into a hole drilled just below the mast top. The thread chain was then wrapped around the center of the yard, and a second small thread piece was inserted through loops in the chain twice. It took a bit of practice to choose the right loops to pass this thread through so that when a knot was tied into the thread it pulled to chain tightly around the yard center. The knots in the two threads were glued and the excess thread cut and removed. The following photos show the pieces and results of this portion of my experimenting. Anchors A Weigh! John Fox III
  24. Thanks for the kind words! I keep learning too, mostly how not to make parts, but that is part of the journey! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
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