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Bottled Ship Builder

exwafoo

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exwafoo last won the day on May 4

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  1. reposted Mast drilling jigs..pdf
  2. Hi All, Further to the above discussion on adhesives, I have been experimenting with an adhesive called Paraloid B72. I first saw this used on a Youtube Video of conservators at the British Museum doing some work on artefacts. A bit of research provided the following: Paraloid B72 is a glass-clear, non-yellowing, soluble plastic. It is a conservation grade adhesive and lacquer. The joint can be undone by the use of a drop of Acetone. Supplied as beads, it is dissolved in Acetone to produce the required consistency:- In 50ml Acetone; 5gm makes 10% lacquer 10gm makes 20% lacquer 25gm makes 50% adhesive In use, I got a couple of laboratory flasks with ground glass stoppers to mix in. I use pure Acetone from the Pharmacist, not nail varnish remover that has other ‘stuff’ in it. I have two mixes, the 10% and 50% and use the 10% for fixing knots, stiffening thread, etc. The 50% mix I use for gluing up other stuff. It does not set straight away, so you get a bit of work time. So far, I’ve been quite pleased with it. Like most glues, the pieces have to be set aside to dry. There have been a couple of failures, probably my fault somehow. The flasks need topping up with acetone now and again due to evaporation, so I marked the full mix level with indelible marker, only to find Acetone dissolved it if I spilt any on it, so a slight scratch with a sharpening stone does the job now. The big advantage I’ve found, is that unlike CA glue, it does not stick to me. Time will tell if I keep on using it. Best Alan
  3. Hi All, Interesting conversation. I have found that tapering the peg and using an air escape hole (usually has a thread glued to the end of the peg to assist in getting the peg to locate in the hole passing through it) helps considerably. The other thing I do is reduce the length of the peg just before putting in the bottle, its fine when building it when constant assembly/dissassembly may be required, but once in and glued up I don't think the full peg length is required. Once the hull pieces are in and located together, I place a small drop of thin CA glue on the hull joint in several places. It wicks in and is enough to give a good join. Best Alan
  4. Not sure where you live, however Alan Rogers in the UK does repairs sometimes. Try messaging him via the 'Ship in Bottle Builders' or the 'European Association of Ships in Bottles' Facebook forums. Al
  5. Lovely miniature work (or a very big match 😀). Thanks for sharing. Stay safe Alan
  6. This is the way I do it. To cross the yards, (attaching them to the mast) I use a loop of thread wrapped around the yard as shown below. Make sure it is long enough. The loose ends are fed through the loop, pulled tight and secured with a drop of glue. The loose ends are then is tied around the mast where required and secured by a drop of glue. This allows the yard to swivel when putting the ship in the bottle and when setting for the required wind direction. Alan
  7. Superglue will come of the inside of a bottle using acetone (pure, not nail varnish remover that has lotions etc added) on a swab. Paraloid B-72 is a conservation quality adhesive. I saw it being used on the British Museum website so gave it a try. Will stick just about everything, but does require drying time. Dries clear and is reversible (just in case) with acetone. Useful for a lot of the work, probably not everything.
  8. Hi Suchojik, This is a common question. This is an article I was asked to write for Bottleship, the Quarterly Magazine of the European Association of Ships in Bottles, after I showed a photo of some tools I use during a discussion on this site's facebook forum. Hope it helps. Alan SEA.pdf
  9. exwafoo

    allansib

    Hi Allan, Nice to see you on this forum as well. Alan M (EASIB)
  10. Thanks for sharing John. A lot of work and a good learning experience. It seemed at times as if you were reconstituting wood using the saturated paper, but without its better qualities. Thanks again and stay safe. Alan
  11. I use small pieces of white and green plasticine for wave tops, dogbone, wake, etc, just a small bit smeared in as required, and at random. The smearing gives it a random 'foam' effect. I 'glaze' the sea with PVA , slightly diluted, as it dries clear and gives the reflective surface. Needs a couple of coats as it can be tricky to get it to stick to the surface. Stay safe all Alan
  12. Those particular sails are made from craft paper, from memory its either 90 or 100 gm. It's slightly buff coloured (using pre-coloured paper usually gives the same colour through it, colouring printer paper leaves a white edge) with a random patchy finish of differing shades of light brown. It gives the effect of salt stains, as sail canvas does not stay pristine for long. I print the sail shape, sewing lines, reef lines and edge rope, using light brown. Trial a couple of different shades and line thicknesses and choose what looks best. Some people use a sharp hard pencil, but I'm too lazy, so use a printer. With a bit of accurate positioning of the print (I use the top left corner on one side and top right on the other side of the sheet, details can be put on both sides of the sail. I have seen thread used, but on small scale it can look too thick, it also has a mind of its own. When I did a miniature, I glued the stays onto the sail and let them dry before cutting out the sail. Hope this helps Alan
  13. A lot depends on the type, size and scale of the SIB, but I tend to try and give the impression of bending the sails to to the yards, etc, as they would be for real. For yards, I stab pinholes through the sail below the edge, the holes can be hardened with a spot of glue on the pin and then use thin thread with the end hardened with glue to 'sew' the sails on to the yard. Some dilute PVA holds everything in place. For staysails, I do the same, but around a length of brass wire of suitable thickness. The thread is stiffened in place with dilute PVA and then slid off when dry. The stays are threaded through these loops, this allows the sails to move on the stay until rigging is complete and can then be glued to the final position. For gaff rigged, I make the mast rings out of suitable stryene tube, paint it and tie the sails to the rings with thread. The photos just manage to show these. Try it on a piece of dowel and paper first. Stay safe Alan
  14. I wouldn't want to meet them on a dark night tho'. 😁
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