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exwafoo

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exwafoo last won the day on October 11

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  1. Hi Suchojik, This is a common question. This is an article I was asked to write for Bottleship, the Quarterly Magazine of the European Association of Ships in Bottles, after I showed a photo of some tools I use during a discussion on this site's facebook forum. Hope it helps. Alan SEA.pdf
  2. exwafoo

    allansib

    Hi Allan, Nice to see you on this forum as well. Alan M (EASIB)
  3. Thanks for sharing John. A lot of work and a good learning experience. It seemed at times as if you were reconstituting wood using the saturated paper, but without its better qualities. Thanks again and stay safe. Alan
  4. I use small pieces of white and green plasticine for wave tops, dogbone, wake, etc, just a small bit smeared in as required, and at random. The smearing gives it a random 'foam' effect. I 'glaze' the sea with PVA , slightly diluted, as it dries clear and gives the reflective surface. Needs a couple of coats as it can be tricky to get it to stick to the surface. Stay safe all Alan
  5. Those particular sails are made from craft paper, from memory its either 90 or 100 gm. It's slightly buff coloured (using pre-coloured paper usually gives the same colour through it, colouring printer paper leaves a white edge) with a random patchy finish of differing shades of light brown. It gives the effect of salt stains, as sail canvas does not stay pristine for long. I print the sail shape, sewing lines, reef lines and edge rope, using light brown. Trial a couple of different shades and line thicknesses and choose what looks best. Some people use a sharp hard pencil, but I'm too lazy, so use a printer. With a bit of accurate positioning of the print (I use the top left corner on one side and top right on the other side of the sheet, details can be put on both sides of the sail. I have seen thread used, but on small scale it can look too thick, it also has a mind of its own. When I did a miniature, I glued the stays onto the sail and let them dry before cutting out the sail. Hope this helps Alan
  6. A lot depends on the type, size and scale of the SIB, but I tend to try and give the impression of bending the sails to to the yards, etc, as they would be for real. For yards, I stab pinholes through the sail below the edge, the holes can be hardened with a spot of glue on the pin and then use thin thread with the end hardened with glue to 'sew' the sails on to the yard. Some dilute PVA holds everything in place. For staysails, I do the same, but around a length of brass wire of suitable thickness. The thread is stiffened in place with dilute PVA and then slid off when dry. The stays are threaded through these loops, this allows the sails to move on the stay until rigging is complete and can then be glued to the final position. For gaff rigged, I make the mast rings out of suitable stryene tube, paint it and tie the sails to the rings with thread. The photos just manage to show these. Try it on a piece of dowel and paper first. Stay safe Alan
  7. I wouldn't want to meet them on a dark night tho'. 😁
  8. Hi Donald, Thanks for the complement on the Colvic Watson. This is the link to the build log. https://www.bottledshipbuilder.com/topic/683-colvic-watson-28/?tab=comments#comment-6310 Stay safe Alan
  9. Have you thought of printing your own waterslide decals for the numbers. I've used this a couple of times for ship's names. A pack of A4 sheets is only about £5 in the UK. I get the right size by printing out different fonts and sizes on paper plus any other suitable detailing, cutting out and trying for size. When correct I print the decals, a couple of copies in case of mistakes. I still have about 4.5 sheets so its going to last. The windows and name on the Colvic Watson 28 SIB in the phot were made this way Alan
  10. If you want to start in scratch building smaller models, may I suggest you have a look at some of the e-books by Robert Wilson FRSA at this link. Robert A Wilson - Payhip 'Scratch building Merchant Sailing Ships - A Dying Art' is a good one (£2.49) Likewise '900-ton Barque Part I - Building the hull' and '900-Ton Part II ' . ( £ 1.49 each) Lots of others well priced as well. He also has a couple of freebies such as how to build a display case.
  11. Langton Miniatures do a very good range of 1/1200 ships, mainly from the Nelson's Navy period. These are white metal castings, with a choice of sail sets in either white metal or brass and with photo etched shrouds and extras. There are some 1/300 ones as well, but these are pricy. http://www.rodlangton.com/ Their book on assembly, painting and rigging is pretty good. You would have to rethink assembling masts, sails and rigging to bottle them though. Their are some utube videos on these if you search.
  12. exwafoo

    Ahoy!

    Hi Paul, If you are looking for small models, have a look at these. There are some builds of these on utube as well. http://www.rodlangton.com/index.html Alan
  13. I've seen some of the modelers who scratch build from styrene use right angled metal blocks and magnets to hold the styrene sheet in place while the glue sets. It would probably work with card as well. Similarly, when I used to build balsa wood planes and boats years ago, pins hammered into the building board were used to keep things aligned until the glue set. Merry Christmas to all and wishing you a better New Year than the one we've had. Alan
  14. Hi Donald, Looks like a good build. Something to remember when planning a tight build, allow room for assembly and tools in the bottle. It has caused me some issues in the past. A narrow flat bottle did not allow tools past the sails to get glue to the stern, and on another SIB with masts that were inserted into holes in the deck lack of height between deck and bottle caused me to have to dig the sea out and replace with a very thin sea to allow enough room to step the mast. Best Alan
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