Sanding

[Gwyl Blaser]

I am interested in sanding.  Do  you custom make your own sticks/blocks?  Do you use flexible sticks that can be found at most box stores?  Any one use power - disk, belt, oscillating sanders?  I know there are a  lot of variables when sanding, but It can be  an interesting topic for beginners as well as seasoned builders.

 

Gwyl

 

[Dave Fellingham]

Craft sticks and dowels in several sizes work well as backers for sandpaper. I always have several with different grits and widths or diameters scattered on the bench and make what I need when I can't find it right away - I sometimes even remember to label the stick with the grit (200, 400, 600, etc). I try to keep them in a cup on my bench but they keep jumping out when I'm not looking.

Edited April 10, 2015 by Dave Fellingham

[Gwyl Blaser]

 I try to keep them in a cup on my bench but they keep jumping out when I'm not looking.

 

Dave,  

 

Good one! That made my day!   They do seem to want to relocate when we are not looking.  I also use some small files with different profiles for certain applications.

 

Gwyl

[Dave Fellingham]

I bought several sets of cheap Chinese files from small to minuscule in size that are useful as wood rasps but not much else and one set of Nicholson small needle files that are for use on metal only. Wood particles attract moisture and moisture causes rust. I also have a set of four diamond bead reamers that come in handy from time to time. They're better trained than the craft stick sanders. 

 

Dave

[Chasseur]

I have one drawer dedicated for various grits of sand paper ranging from 200 to 3000. Also I have a can of various dowels and flats with different grits as well. The can was donated by my Father-in-Law as he can't model anymore as he is too old now. At one stage in his life he was one fine RC aircraft large scale modeller!  His can of assorted sticks are invaluable. All shapes and sizes which come in handy!

 

Jeff

[Gwyl Blaser]

That is good stuff Jeff.  I know I have collected countless sticks etc in my modeling career that come in handy when sanding. One of the best sanding sticks/sheets idea came from stick and tissue modeling.  When sanding the fuselage bulkheads for stringers, I would glue a piece of sand paper to the edge of the sheet.  I could then sand very uniform notches into the bullheads.  This has come in handy a few time with my ships.

You can see that the paper is attached to one edge.  Here is one for 1/16" and one for 1/32" notches.

 

Gwyl

[Chasseur]

Gwyl,

That is a cool idea. I like it!

Jeff

[DSiemens]

I've heard of using an electric toothbrush for detail sanding. Cut off the bristles and glue on a piece of wood or foam and then sandpaper. I've yet to try it but it sounds like it might work.

[Gwyl Blaser]

I've heard of using an electric toothbrush for detail sanding. Cut off the bristles and glue on a piece of wood or foam and then sandpaper. I've yet to try it but it sounds like it might work.

 

Daniel,

 

That sounds like a good idea.  I will have to give that a try.

 

Gwyl

[Chasseur]

This is a nice little Video by Paul Budzik on sanding.

Jeff

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=606_x_KAo4I

[Gwyl Blaser]

Jeff,

 

Great youtube link.  Double sided sticky tape to the rescue.  I like it!  

 

So much to learn from others, and so little time.  

 

Gwyl

[Chasseur]

I use white carpenters glue then press it (the stick or block) on a glass plate with a weight. Just as effective!

Jeff

[Gwyl Blaser]

I have a DVD from a fellow who teaches wood carving and sharpening of gouges etc.  He uses the glue stick to hold down sand paper for his needs.  Different adhesive, but they all give same results.

 

Gwyl

[Dan Vadas]

I glue the paper to my various sanding sticks with high-strength spray contact adhesive. To replace the paper I use a heat gun. It softens the glue almost immediately and it can be easily peeled off with a minimum of fuss and mess.

 

The other day I purchased a couple of sets of Diamond coated needle files in various shapes including riffler files. These have worked brilliantly on virtually any material - wood, brass etc. They don't go blunt or clog like normal files, and weren't at all expensive.