ARUP

+1, yes... very nice! I really love the aesthetic of Baltimore Clippers.

I walked upon the deck of the Pride of Baltimore when it visited Galveston. I still have the 'T' shirt!

You can obtain nice bottles from 'scientific supply' vendors. They may cost a bit but if you can share a multiple bottle/container purchase with another like-minded individual that would ease the 'pain'. I still have a one gallon glass bottle that contained the syrup for soda fountain drinks! My parents had a pharmacy and it had an 'old tyme' soda fountain. I'd like to put a large U.S.S. Constitution in it.

Yessir! That's a fine three-mast barquentine! Did you silicone the bottle to the stand?

Nice tools from 'normal' hobby suppliers are all you need! A scissors, tweezers, sandpaper, X-acto knife, Uber skiver, cake of bees wax, etc. are the store bought items I use. The rest of my tools are are specialty 'home made' items. They are basically a piece of razor blade, paint brush or a wire hook on the end of a long stick... stuff like that specially made for reaching into bottles.

CA reacts aggressively with water. If you ever get it in your eyes remember... it'll sting but... you won't go blind! The CA will crystallize on contact with your tear film and local tissues while possibly encapsulating your eyelashes rendering your eye closed. Don't fret! It'll hurt like heck because the hard CA chunk stuck between your lids will rub on your cornea and scratch it a bit. The optometrist or ophthalmologist will use topical anesthetic for temporary pain relief while they cut the lashes to access the eyeball. They will remove the hardened chunk of CA that has contoured to the shape of your eye and palpebral fissure. Then they will instill antibiotic drops and a bandage soft contact lens. In the morning the contact gets removed and you will be as good as new! Except for truncated eyelashes, that is! My advice is don't get CA in your eyes. Personally, I rarely use the stuff... it makes my nose 'run' (allergic to it). How do I know all of this (and then some)? I am an eye care provider!

Looks to be smooth sailing from here on out!

That looks like it has been fun going in the bottle so far! Thanks for posting.

You are putting your ship in the bottle pretty much the way he describes except that he developed a 'deck plan' as a control board. All the lines from the 'upper works' pass through the hull and end at the control board. Of course, the lines are plenty long to allow for them to double back on themselves, as you show in your build. Then, you pull the masts up off the hull and put them into a temporary 'holder' to help contain the rigging 'madness'! What's nice about the control board is that it is just that! Each lines passes through a hole in the board that corresponds to what rigging passes through the hull. It is difficult to get any lines tangled or crossed! With my Elissa (which got stolen off the museum ship in Galveston, TX), I think there were ~120 strings to the control board. I like the split hull method, too! I like to put the 'water' in first. I'm really looking forward to more posts! Thanks!

It's crazy, ain't it? Do you have Bill Lucas' book? I use his method for the task.

FWIW, I never used any adhesive to hold lines. The lines had plenty of 'friction' within the hull, masts and yards and all loose ends are buried in clay. The use of adhesives to hold lines isn't a bad idea and there may be instances where it is advantageous but for ALL lines it seems to be an extra step that isn't needed. I like to drag one mast into the bottle at a time (I've never built a 'folded' SIB). It just gets crazy sometimes with lines hanging out of the bottle so patience is key. I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir!

Looks great! Thanks for posting!

You could even 'print' parts for the old Milton Bradley 'Broadside' board game from 1962. That was my introduction to ship, etc.

Congratulations! You have a very fine SIB!!! The 'Belle of Louisville' is not too far from where I live and I met the calliope player many years ago! The Howard Steamboat Museum is just across the river, too.

That is a great idea 3-D printing those hulls. I have had items for my RC airplanes printed and noticed the parts are a bit 'grainy' so require a bit of finishing. If those hulls are like that then for the next ones possibly have then done slightly 'finer' in scale so that any layers of paint and fillers won't cause them to get 'plump' (?). All kinds of things could get printed so that is a pretty neat idea!