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Bottled Ship Builder

Cutter from scratch


Alvaro004
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Greetings.

 

You know I use translate so this is going to be slow and I hope the translation is good and understandable.

 

We're going to show my latest work, it's a classic Cutterr, made of wood, I couldn't find plans... lie and truth yesterday I downloaded some I think the Boston Spray, but I've already advanced mine so it's saved for another chance.

 

As long as you can work with plans is my advice, the Vietnamese that when I reach a sufficient level I want to do it with his quads and half helmet, it was very nice to do, working with photographs does not ensure the correct scale and you also see parts of some very detailed and of others so that in the end it is still a Frankenstein ship with different parts united from various origins.

 

The technique is to split the hull in two and it will be the first to mount with the bottle vertical, so at the moment I have no idea how I am going to solve this type of assembly, as I progress in its design and construction I will see how I organize the lines, trying to make them like an operational one.

 

So let's go with what's there.

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Do one...

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Two...

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And the end, the first in beech, very easy to work with, the third in pine, the first two do not separate, I want them for reference and to work on part of the process if it is not the end. breaks down, this is due to my insecurity in facing this challenge.

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You can see that on this occasion the deck boarding is made by cutting recycled wood, which came off a plywood that was used to fix a painting, it is seen that it was in a house or warehouse with a lot of humidity and it was loose, it had traces of black mold in some areas, wash everything with bleach, water and soap and let it dry, the painting was lying with a pile of rubble and scrap metal in a corner of the mountain, shameful behavior that unfortunately despite the existence of ecoparks there are those who maintain them.

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Finished the flooring, while drying each plank, I made a mast that is not the final one and I prepared the cabin in two parts, I verified that I had failed in the measure of the mouth of the bottle and they did not fit together, so I glued the two parts and as it is going to be, I glued the hull on the inside once and messed with the roof, also with some small slats that when moistened took the curve well, a problem since I use PVA when they are moistened, the task becomes slower once again the first one is fixed, it is easier because it is to follow that one.

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You can see the sketch that serves as a guide and to which I have adjusted the proportions of a very nice bottle but with a horrible glass that completely deforms everything inside, but its shape is ideal to do what I like... .fill it to the millimeter, in fact the mast will reach the middle of the neck of the bottle with the added difficulty of adjusting and shaping the sails without losing a millimeter of the measure or it will be a failure.

 

Almost finished house.

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The remaining strips with the sandpaper have been adjusted to the contour of the boat.

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Test how the cabin looks and its proportions, I think it's ok.

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Another view thinking about how to make and place the portholes.

 

Greetings.

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Alvaro004
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Good night.

Helped by some solid wood that has a curved shape, after having some polo sticks in very hot water all night, with some sergeants it is taken to its position and allowed to dry well.

 

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We do the two huts at the same time.

Once dry, we adjust to the curvature of the roof, we lower one of them to the correct height of the rail, we practice the scuppers and we pay the first of the rails, which gives us the correct height.

 

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Helped by the press, once the first one was glued, we glued the second one that we can see longer, by the way I forgot to mention that I always paint, in this case I varnish, cherry color, the interior before gluing it, thus avoiding undesirable stains or errors on the cover .

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I prefer not to give the height measurement to the two rails before gluing, because any deviation in the height of the deck from one to the other, even a more pronounced curve, would cause an error, which would force it to be changed, when it is much easier, for me.

With the razor blade remove the thickest and finish off the heights with sandpaper, so I ensure equality height of the edges.

Greetings.

 

 

 

 

..

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Posted (edited)

 

Good night.

Let,s go, more work.

 

We have matched both rails, the Cutter looks harmonious, they measure exactly the same height from the platform.

I have created a skylight, separated in two, I think this one can fit in two.

You can see in the image how I have discarded a first attempt at a cornice with scuppers, you will see it at the top right, that is why I use the big stick, I can make four cornices because I always make mistakes.

 

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Mast and yards, The roof of the house with a coat of varnish.

 

 

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The house with its door and roof, the proportions go well.

Your sunroof closed and I'll make one open.

It seems good to me, later on I plan to make an even more complicated deckhouse and a skylight that can be seen inside the cabin and below deck, I already have the method in my head, more work but more level... little by little, but Hare.

At the moment I can't make galleons.

 

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Handmade portholes, brass rings and black foam interior cut to the millimeter thickness or less with a razor blade.

 

Greetings.

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Alvaro004
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Posted (edited)

Good afternoon, let's go with some progress...

...and setbacks, that there are, we leave them for later.

 

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I carefully examine the curvatures, heights, dimensions, proportions, which would be in addition to having fun for a while because I like what I see, performing optimal quality control... I remind you that I work without plans... which for me is always a difficulty .

 

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I am going to be very insistent on this subject, but as long as it can be recycled, reused and reduced... in this case this sheet metal, less than a millimeter thick, comes from the back of a painted plywood picture, which is it separated due to the effect of humidity... I washed it well, let it dry and now I have it for different uses.

 

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Forgive the photographer who is a mall, put your finger down.

With this round strip of six millimeters in diameter I hope to be able to make the railings of the railing... for this it has been immersed in very hot water one night when I get up I change the water again no matter how hot it burns and after a After a while I put it in its holder, it is one of the two hulls I made in beech, identical to the ship's pine.

It is left to dry on days when there are more tasks to do

 

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I add some wooden circles on the tips of the masts and bowsprit as I have seen in a photo on the internet, although they are actually metal and a cylinder that surrounds the tip of these.

I also varnished the part of the wood that doesn't turn white.

 

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Aft seat and helmsman's seat.

Well, nothing that keeps your eyes working.

 

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We work the mast, it is varnished, it is drilled to pass that piece that I don't know what nautical name it has, it is a crossbar that some lines cross from the hull to the tip of the mast.

Information is appreciated

 

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We have already put the railings, there are no photos, sorry, but come on, the process is easy, it was left to dry for several days, then it was verified that the curve was perfect, it was cut to the correct length and the only more laborious thing was with a knife cut the strip in two parts to obtain two half circles that make a believable railing, it is glued with pva and without further ado.

We have also made the base of the bowsprit and drilled through the hull at the point through it.

Greetings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

..

 

 

 

Edited by Alvaro004
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My goodness, I want to die, I'm beating myself up with Google Translate to write, copy the text in English, paste it in the compilation and it comes out in Spanish.

Does anyone know a good translator to try if it's Google?

It happens to me in other English pages too.

 

I'm sorry, I'm desperate, I want to share information and that's how I'm going wrong.

 

I think it's solved....I wish.

All the best.

 

Greetings.

Edited by Alvaro004
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Good afternoon:

Let's see if today it is possible that not a word in spanish gets through, I will be watching more than yesterday... but I still don't understand what can happen, it exceeds my logical and analytical capacity.

Today the idea is to show you how I made the sea for this model.

Yesterday I told you diorama and this heat is making me delirious, this boat does not have a landscape, it goes in principle for the bottle that you will see.

My strategy for today is few words and many photos... you're lucky you won't have to have an aspirin omelette for dinner because of my excessive verbiage.

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The white paper is a template that we have verified reproduces the oval of the tinted silicone that we have put in the bottle to simulate the depth.

There are no photos of the process but you will see them. 

If everything is fine, I usually measure six times and cut one, the boat will be one millimeter on each side with respect to the interior glass and the mast will enter the neck of the bottle half.

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Everything we're going to need is here...

Focus your attention on a template made with plastic sanded from the paper one, you can see the exact position of the helmet in another template below.

The plastic template is surrounded by a twine thread two or three millimeters thick glued, it is the one that limits the height and expansion of the silicone.

Determines the working zone of our sea.

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My method is always to glue wood against wood, that's why I make a small square, sometimes a strip, with two glued wooden sticks that fit into the holes in the hull.

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In this image you can see that the hull has been wrapped in kitchen plastic, which you cannot see and it is very IMPORTANT that you remember to remove the board from the bottom of the hull, wrap it and finally nail the board back in place by drilling the plastic .

One thing that I have done for the first time, I always use tinted silicone, but this time to test how it works against an already tinted background, I have tried to glue the outline of the helmet with transparent silicone to see if I get a deeper effect of the helmet.

I have also taken the opportunity to put the transparent silicone that will make the breaking wave of the bow in the plastic.

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Silicone like two index fingers and three drops of color, to match the one already inserted... the idea is a deep Atlantic sea.

Stir to equalize and without beating so as not to introduce air.

We fill from the inside out, remember that we just glued the hull with silicone without dye... the entire oval flush with the twine that gives us the height.

They are simulated a little bit by distributing the unevenness that the sea creates and we place the bow plastic in the arched shape that we want the bow wave.

The next day.

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The board where the helmet goes in its place...

Not even hunger moves her from there.

There are no photos of how to put and paste the sea inside.

Only the twine is removed from the sea.

It is left glued on the sanded plastic.T

The sea is rolled up with the plastic part facing out and enters alone.

It is supported on the side of the bottle and with a wire, or a drinking straw, drops of silicone are placed on the sea inside and a cord where the board goes.

The sea is dropped on it and it is leveled flush.

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I promised little words and a lot of photo, at least the second I have fulfilled.

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Ufff...bad.

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Ufff...bad.

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Well?

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Yes, her well.

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Ufff...bad.

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Ufff...bad.

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Ufff...bad.

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Ufff...very bad.

the only thing perfect is that the bowsprit is a millimeter from the glass.

I knew that the bottle would deform but not in this brutal way.

I don't know if it's worth it

put it in it... but at the moment I don't have another, we'll see.

Greetings.

 

 

 

 

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