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Bottled Ship Builder

Marcos

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Everything posted by Marcos

  1. Glues, paints and puttys are finally drying up and a much clearer view is now possible. It’s now time to contemplate the work sipping some coffee. Thank you all who followed the build, now all that is needed is letting it dry a bot more just to guarantee now condensation and close the cap.
  2. All went well on the trip through the bottleneck. After about 30 years, she is finally resting inside the bottle with her sails open! Would like to hear some tips on how to remove some folds on some sails. Photos are a bit misty due to moisure from white flue pond drying inside the bottle. I need some nice sunny days befor closing up.
  3. https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/somerscales-off-valparaiso-n01773 The artwork on the manual is a copy of the painting referenced in the link above.
  4. A selection of ensigns: I went with the mid-size red ensign as should be used by merchant vessels.
  5. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Princess_Royal_(East_Indiaman) According to Wikipedia this ship was not built 1841 as stated in the instructions, but more than 100 years earlier. There is one ship named princess royalss built in 1841 but it was a steamer.
  6. Painting the sea. I used tamiya blue and violet acrylic paints, tamiya paint retarder and mig wet effects so far. Some cotton soaked in wet effects was added around the hull to simulate waves. Let’s see how it looks like when dry...
  7. The moment of thruth is coming. I made some holes in the sea of putty to anchor a puddle of epoxy, Magnetic craddle was then laid on top of it. I created a rope guide using brass sheet to guide cables and orient them better towards the middle of the bow. I labeled all cables with tape tags and lowered the masts. Cables look no messy, but apparently all are on correct position! i also gave the last coat of gloss to the craddle. I find it looks very nice indeed.
  8. Sails are up! craddle received the first stain and varnish coat.
  9. Making all possible to achieve a square craddle in all three axis (well, at least while attaching the first two parts). Parts were glued with 5-minute epoxy after cleaning old varnish and sanding parts a bit better. Both shaped parts are pretty different from one another, but I don’t think it will spoil final stance and adds some handmade flavour to the whole. Thanks for the comments folks! Would love to see your work as well!
  10. All rigging done. Tamiya extra thin cement bottle is actually Micto Kristal Klear -i.e. white flue to seal the rigging from frizz.
  11. Prepared a magnetic attached base so it can be moved off the trestle quickly and position inside the bottle positively. i still have to figure out gow to anchor the brass plate to the putty sea.
  12. Started working on the sea of putty. Putty was laid in many years ago and was almost totally dry. I found it to be a little high to fit the ship so I scraped some of it off. The picture shows a height gauge to confirm ship will fit.
  13. I still had the original material, just some copper or brass wire, maybe 0,8mm (1/32” or so) in diameter.
  14. Got the fixed rigging done. Now to the front movable stays and sail rigs.
  15. Not much progress this weekend- cleaned up the trestle and did the first round of rigging. The bowsprite was quite easy. I have some doubts about the frizzy thread. Tried to reduce it with some wax, white glue and varnish, but with doubtful results. What do you think is good to reduce the frizz on polyether thread? Otherwise the thread looks good- color and tightness are great. Thanks for the comments!
  16. Masts and bowsprite were all drilled and dressed with brown rope. Hinges were done according to the instructions using supplied wire. I noticed the superstructures are slightly offset to one side, but they will stay like this now.
  17. I´ve added the holes to the side parts to guide the drilling better. princess2.pdf
  18. Of course! You can use and modify as you like. I remembered yesterday I would like to add the hole indications on the bumpers, this is something i realized later that would help drilling the holes on the hull sides. I would also consider drilling them before glueing the bumbers, then use the bumpers to mask the holes. This drilling tears up the paper a bit around the holes, making a bit of a mess. Since I used a sheet that is a bit thinner than the original I am considering adding another bumper after i pass the cables through these holes to improve the look. Let’s see. Now I am working on the
  19. This is the pdf version of the Re-CADded cardboard sheet, with some additions/improvements princess2.pdf
  20. Today’s work continued drilling the hull sides. I may add an additional bumper to each side beacuse the paper got a little teared in the proccess, but nothing major. Masts were straightened, tapered and drilled.
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