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Bottled Ship Builder

John Fox III

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John Fox III last won the day on June 28

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  1. Thanks! Not sure about master level, but I do try to push detailing as far as I am able. Unfortunately, arthritis pain in my hands and wrist are making things more and more difficult for me to work on small details. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  2. Thanks for the kind words! The realism comes from knowing "layers" beyond what you can actually represent and then attempting to make it "look" right. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  3. Greetings All, More progress on my 1:200 model of Niagara/Lawrence. Tiniest blocks I've ever made, or probably ever will. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  4. Greetings Alvaro, Welcome aboard! Keep in mind that we all started in the same place, we all had a first ship in bottle model. Look around the forum and you can find all sorts of good ideas. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  5. Greetings All, The following photos show how I made the 12 pdr. cannon and 32 pdr. carronades for my 1:200 scale model of Niagara/Lawrence. Both barrels are made from paper tightly rolled around an appropriate sized drill bit shank, saturated with CA glue, then sanded to shape. It did take multiple applications of the glue, as it could only penetrate one or two layers of the rolled paper. I used standard inkjet printer paper, soaked in ink jet ink, I had a spare cartridge for my printer so used that for the ink. The carraiges and slides were made from maple. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  6. Greetings Dan, Good for you! That is the exact reason I always build full hull ship models. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  7. Greetings Dan, You are more than welcome! Glad you found the presentation and our talk useful and inspirational! I was happy to share the pinch bottles with someone, since I knew I would not use them. Good luck with your next project, looking forward to seeing what it is and how it develops. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  8. Greetings Andrew, One thing to consider when gluing the pegs into holes is that air is trapped below the peg. One thing I do is score or cut a groove in the peg, so that as it's pushed into the hole air can escape through the groove. I've used both types of glues, and have had similar problems in the past when attaching upper to lower hull parts. The grooves help, but are not the perfect solution. Although much more difficult to do, one could place small blocks on the lower hull, just inside the edge of the hollowed out area on the underside of the upper hull, assuming one hollows out the area to run rigging lines through. Those blocks could align the upper hull as it's lowered so small pegs could be used to alleviate the air being trapped. I have never tried this, but just might if/when I build another bottle or light bulb model. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  9. Greetings Dan, Can't help you with fake water/sea, never use that in any of my modeling efforts. I prefer to model the full hull, detailed model, and nothing else besides some sort of stand for the model inside the bottle or light bulb. Good luck with your efforts in that direction! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  10. Greetings Dan, Not sure what your problem with photos is, but when I first tried I had problems too. I normally store my photo files as .tiff files, as they are uncompressed. That did not work for me when trying to upload, so I changed the file type to .jpeg/.jpg, and reduced the size to 1048x764, then it worked fine for me. Welcome aboard! Have fun looking around! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  11. Greetings Andrew, The veneer was obtained because I lived within a few miles of a factory that used a huge lathe type machine to turn whole logs while a sharp blade was placed against the log, removing thin slices. They made the facing for hollow core doors this way. I managed to get a foot high pile of pieces cut out due to knots, about 12" x 18". That being said, that method of making veneer has it's drawbacks, i.e. the wood is very rough, and often cracks easily. As to the planking, the deck planking is pretty well correct. However, the outside hull planking is definitely not the proper methodology. There would never have been planks that end in a point, proper planking never has planks that taper to less than half the width of the planks. It's been so long since I actually planked a hull properly, that I forgot that until I had planked too much to correct it. If one were going to paint the hull, then it would not matter, but I do not plan to paint my hull. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  12. Greetings All, Here are a few pics of my work on 1813 US brig Niagara. Scale is 1:200. She has a solid carved hull, planked with maple veneer. Apple wood stem and stern post, as well as keel. The cap rail is maple veneer, 3 layers. Grating is maple veneer. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  13. Greetings Patch, We all started from the same point, no experience and a lot of experimentation. With modern internet access, you may be able to find some plans that would suit for your proposed model. My own interests don't go there, so I can't help with any directions, but have found that most things can be found if you search diligently online. Good luck! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  14. Greetings Andrew, Very nicely done indeed! For a fist s-i-b model it is quite remarkable. Considering the first three I built went into the garbage can before anyone but me saw them! <G> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
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