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Bottled Ship Builder


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Everything posted by DavidB773

  1. DavidB773


    I’m a firm believer in pegging parts because it’s useful for positioning and for added strength. Now how about this, a control line through the hull will bring the channel board (with ratlines secured) to the hull and hold it there. Then your positioning tool can be used to guide the part home. A single control line should handle it. I think that a longer peg, even made of wire, would allow for easier placement because it would create more slack with the ratlines.
  2. DavidB773


    Hello, Spanky. I see you’re considering pegging the channels to the hull with the ratlines already secured. That idea would save a lot of individual line adjustments inside the bottle. So the careful adjusting would need to be done on the outside. I’m interested to see how you proceed. Looking good! David
  3. DavidB773

    CSS Alabama

    Hilarious! I like your project, Onni. It's a very lively craft and stands out. I appreciate that you've shared how the challenges were met. Thank you! David
  4. Bruce, your mentions of my attempt with the Dimond are very kind and appreciated but very much undeserved! The little ship is in a lab bottle from a school that I found at an antique shop. The pinch bottle you've chosen adds to the old school feel of your build. I see that CA glue is something you're not afraid to employ. For me, I could never gather the nerve to touch anything inside the bottle with CA because whatever I'd use to apply it would become part of the scenery! Best regards, David.
  5. I like this ship. It has great character. Oh, how true that is! Maybe a little detail to mention to observers of our accomplishments.
  6. Cool ship there, James! Thanks for sharing it with us! David
  7. DavidB773


    For the single SIB I’ve completed, I drew the American flag on both sides of a single piece of paper then folded it in half. Used red and blue ink. Folded, the size is about 2 mm x 3 mm. I’m pretending that there are 38 stars in the field on this 1881 flag.
  8. Hello, all. Here's a link to the video of the placement of the foremast on the W.H. Dimond using this tool. https://youtu.be/eT_Nua9Fi3Q David
  9. While working on the Dimond project, a threading loop on the port side bow was inadvertently yanked out. The loop was connected to a thread that exited at the base of the bow along with all the other threads. It was to be used for controlling a bowsprit brace from outside of the bottle. Here are two pics showing it beforehand. I didn’t want to lose an adjustment point that loop provided so I decided to place looped wire there for attaching the brace to. These photos show how I carried the wire to the bow and placed it in the hole. This depiction was after the initial repair was
  10. Fine models, Spanky. The "Sovereign" looks like she's all there. The paddle wheel metalwork on the "Santa Clara" is quite detailed. Looks like she could have been a working model.
  11. I appreciate that, Arup! The bottle is not glued to the stand. Those square pads are a cured adhesive (E6000) cut to shape then glued to the stand. They grip the glass to keep it secure.
  12. Thank you, Arup! Thank you, Mr. S., taking a look at what I'm doing here. I'm quite honored to read your opinion of what I've accomplished. I have a cork for the bottle but it needs to be sized to fit. However, I'm not going to let that get in the way of posting this!
  13. She's almost complete. And no more lines coming out of the bottle!
  14. In my case, bad things happen at any pace! One thing I'm facing is being able to create enough tension on the bowsprit forestays to move the foremast slightly forward for the purpose of tightening the foremast yard braces. The foremast would need to move only 1 or 2 mm for that. This is where the bobstays will do their part. Here, the control lines are being separated for the big cut. After this was done, the bowsprit was kept as shown while I was fitting the sea. That involved a lot of insertion and removal of the pair of sea halves and it was a lot quicker this way. All
  15. Welcome aboard, James! That's a fine craft you have there. Well proportioned. That bottle is definitely full! David
  16. What's different about this step is that the lines are static and the spar is slowly pushed "through" them. So far I haven't found an errant touch of dried adhesive along the path.
  17. As a followup, the above line was replaced. I've been working aft to stern making adjustments and cleaning the inside of the bottle. All of the threading with the bowsprit is done outside of the bottle and it's ready to go in. In the bottle, my initial threading plan for the bowsprit called for single line threading. It would have been complicated (but not impossible) to coax thread through the holes and would have involved delicate trimming. However, after putting the bowsprit in the support, I pictured a different scenario that will be much easier to accomplish. I broke the threads up in sec
  18. I appreciate the conversation, Mike. Look at the photo from 4.1.17 of single line channel to see how small (or big!) a peg can be. Following are photos of a line I'm replacing because I can't get the kink out of it. It was a tight loop that was in the mast for quite a while then pulled through. Moistening it had no effect. We see the line, then one end cut followed by a glued extension to it to prep for the last cut. (Could have glued first before the first cut.) This will carry the new line to the masts. This new line is CA coated thread. Trial run. Mor
  19. Thank you for your gracious comments, Mr. S. and Landlubber. Mike, further up on this page there are some photos that show all of the lines that I ran underneath the hollowed out hull. On my project, the shroud lines and back stays are attached to the masts then are threaded through holes in the channels then take an immediate bend to go through holes in the hull. They all then exit at the bow where they will be cut and all of this is below the waterline. This method would work with a split hull or not. Here are my thoughts about your plan for securing the lines at the channels
  20. You yanked the whole ship out? All I did was two lines! Newcomers to the SIB hobby reading these posts... please don't be discouraged in any way to putting a ship in a bottle. Many SIB'ers have been doing this for twenty years and in twenty more, they'll have it down pat. I thought I could concentrate enough to put tools in and bring them out of a bottle without snagging anything. Trimmed up a pair of lines super-close to a tie down point that had a touch of adhesive added. Good enough. I commanded myself to not touch those lines until applying the securing adhesive in the next step
  21. Twice, during a session last week, my thoughts were that I'm not going to build another one again. Contrary to that, having the experience as you mention Mr. S., any future builds should go smoother and with better results. And that is encouragement enough to continue to be creative and enjoy doing something that's rewarding and not everyone attempts. I have some observations in regard to this project and I'm thinking about mentioning them in another thread, for the sake of discussion. That would be coming from someone who has only built one (almost!) SIB. Here's how I put the flag
  22. Progression of trimming the excess of two yard braces. Third photo is of right after the cut. Last photo.... ready for the bowsprit. About the flag, that's the fourth one and I'm still not happy with it. I couldn't get it fully seated on the thread before the glue set.
  23. Everyone, here's a photo of how it stands right now. A side mention... I've not seen a thread on this site on horror stories for this type of endeavor. If one ever starts...
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