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  1. Greetings All, The work on the card and paper clipper model continued with quite a few more sealing and sanding, with small amounts of Bondo. Once I had a decent hull I made up the keel, stem and stern posts out of multiple layers of board. After reading more online about card models I learned to saturate the card stock with thinned down poly varnish, in order to make it stiffer and less prone to fraying when sanding. It also made cutting a wee bit harder, but worth the effort as it shapes up nicer when saturated. I did this by using a large art paint brush an
    12 points
  2. Greetings All, The work on the hull progressed by sanding down all the planking, to get as smooth and fair a surface as I could. I sanded, then applied poly varnish thinned 50/50 with paint thinner until it no longer soaked in. Waited for the varnish to dry, then sanded again. I repeated this process many times. While sanding I could see areas where the planks pushed inwards slightly, and small gaps in the finish. I used Bondo glazing and spot putty, applied with a stiff piece of styrene plastic, to cover the gaps and low spots. Again, after Bondo dried the hull was sealed and sanded. I d
    12 points
  3. She's Launched!!!! It's been a while since I've been here, but slowly bits have come together. There is a photo of the ship, rigged, (almost), sitting on the table, one of my launching tool,(launch ramp??),which is modelled after the Amarti tool I used for Hannah, and one of her in the bottle, with the air pump going to get rid of any fumes from the glue. I have the mast handling tool sorted out, it seems to work on the dummy runs, and a few suitable Swann Morton blades in the post, due very soon, which clip onto an extended handle. Now I just have to rig her! Cheers
    12 points
  4. West Country Trading Ketch Bessie Way back in 2016,when the world was normalish, the Royal Yacht Club asked the European Association of ships in Bottles to help fund raise for the UK Olympic Sailing Team by building and donating SIBs that had had the sail signed by a team member. I built two SIBs of this ship, see Build Log called ‘Going for Gold Build – Bessie’, so I won’t repeat that part of the build. I actually built 3 SIBs, using the third as a trial ship for some techniques, such as split hull, that I had not used before. Up until last year it sat on a shelf unfinished. I then thoug
    11 points
  5. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    Funnel goes in and then the main mast. Decided to leave off 'Daisy' and the cow shed as I thought the deck could look a bit too cluttered.( It's possible that I can add them later if I want to.) Main mast in place with no problems and then set in the foremast. The bowsprit gave me a few problems as the glue didn't set on the first attempt because the mounting hole inside is made up of a plastic and wood wafer construction, so in the end I used an epoxy glue to fix it firmly. Finally completed GB after several months work but unfortunately I didn't notice that the top flying jig rigging had tan
    11 points
  6. I've been intrigued lately when viewing build logs on the NRG web site, among other places. Decided I would give it a try and see how it all works. I started by viewing the vast number of CAD ship plans I've developed over 40 years of modeling sailing vessels. I was interested in something fairly simply, but one I had enough information already drawn up in plans. I ended up settling on the clipper Flying Cloud. I drew up the plans 27 years ago for a ship in bottle model at 1:750 scale. For a card/paper model I decided on a scale of 1:350, making the hull slightly over 8" long.
    10 points
  7. Just completed Hms Campbeltown (ex 131 Buchanan) depicting the raid on St.Nazaire docks in 1942. Not that easy to depict a dockyard in a 75cl bottle but you get the idea.
    10 points
  8. Trial and error on my "deck" or trampoline. I first tried to paint some silk-span black and make the deck from it but it would tear and I couldn't make the line look consistent where it laces together. After noodling around for a couple days, I scrapped that idea and went with cardboard. It is more stiff and able to handle the thread being pulled taught. Had to take a couple days off to set up a hockey rink in our backyard as there appeared to be a long cold snap coming, only for Mother Nature to warm things just enough to make the neighborhood kids wait until Chri
    10 points
  9. Donald

    Mayflower

    To say this has been an exercise in patience, would be a gross understatement. I got 'er in the bottle without "major" disaster but there were quite a few things that went wrong. The post on the stern broke off(in the bottle), that was an absolute bear to try to glue back on for the rigging to loop on. My control lines all broke, ( foolishly used thread I had not tried before) I got glue in the peg holes, ...before the pegs got in there, I still have a bit of glue residue inside the bottle that I think I will be able to clean alright. My stern lantern wouldn't fit through the neck so I had to
    10 points
  10. 10 points
  11. Greetings All, Work on the second hull continued with the start of a first layer of planking. This time I used well saturated cardboard that was thinner than that used on the first hull. These planks were stiffer, but also much more brittle. I also changed things up a little by using a white card stock, also saturated with thinned poly varnish, to delineate the waterline. The following photos show this work in progress. One thing to note is that this time I did not fill in the bow and stern areas with solid card stock, not sure if it was a good idea or not, it make planking mu
    9 points
  12. Greetings All, Before continuing with this build article I would like to review some of what I've learned, and how it affects the work as it progresses. First of all I have learned that I need to soak/saturate the card stock from packaging much better. Originally I only used multiple painted coats of thinned poly varnish to do this work. I was only saturating the uncolored side, which is in effect sealed off by the printing. I have since learned to sand the colored side of the card stock, using 320 grit sandpaper and a small wood block, to roughen up the surface and remove as
    9 points
  13. Continuing on with my card/paper Flying Cloud model build. The next step was to fill in between bulkheads and keel at the bow and stern with layers of board cut to fit as I added them. Photos below shows the results after cutting and shaping them a bit, and applying CA glue to harden them. I also started sanding the bulkheads edges to fair in the hull shape. What I found was that in many places the weaker inner parts of the board would splay the outer harder parts outward as I sanded. I continued sanding and fairing the hull, had to apply CA glue between each sanding session.
    9 points
  14. Slow progress, haven't really done anything since november, kind of lost the will with current situation, but thought it was about time to knuckle down and crack on with it. probably not going to do much more to the hull apart from a few small deckdetails. Time to start the lateen rigged masts,the holes are drilled and lined up ready. 😁
    8 points
  15. Destroyed the deck trying to squeeze it in, so hurriedly had to make a new one out of slightly thinner veneer. Luckily second attempt succeeded.
    8 points
  16. Just messing around with a quick "Bluenose" to launch in a little pumpkinseed bottle.
    8 points
  17. Here's my final result, Charlotte Rhodes. I kept an informal log of how much time I spent and what I spent it on. Came out about 54 hours, with 10 spent on the hull, 8 on launching and finishing it in the bottle, 6 on the deck furnishings, 6 on the stand, 5.5 on the mast and spars etc. I actually thought it would have been more like 80 or 90 hours. Did anyone else ever track their hours?
    8 points
  18. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    Fifty years ago this month (July) SS Great Britain returned to Bristol from the Falkland islands where she had been used as a storage hulk for many years and then abandoned. Built by Brunel in 1843 she was the first iron steamer to cross the Atlantic. She is now fully restored . I am going to try to build her as she first looked after her launch. On a trip to England last year picked up a Large 'Bell's' Whisky bottle so I was thinking that would be suitable enough for this large ship. I must of looked quite funny or a bit suspicious walking through customs with a huge bottle sticking out of my
    8 points
  19. Donald

    Mayflower

    Made and raised the Union flag and The English Cross of St. George. Trimmed the anchors a bit, pulled 'em up to the catheads and hooked up the "chains" from the hawse holes. Touched up the 2 cannons, made a new capstan. Planning on sprit sail, stern lantern and control lines to chain wales soon.
    8 points
  20. I have also made these paper and card hulls for many years using similar items as John but download ship plans/drawings from the internet and then resize them through Photoshop to a scale that I need for a particular bottle. I don't do this for every model as it is very time consuming and rather tedious but its just to give an idea of what the shape of a hull should look like. In the photo l-r Mayflower,PT109,Black Pearl.
    8 points
  21. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    All the hull parts fitted through the bottle neck relativity easily but I had tremendous trouble to lift the front end of the starboard top piece over the front lug to secure it (Second photo). It actually took me about an hour before it snuggly slipped in place (Third photo).Luckily I had already designed these pieces to fit together without being glued otherwise it would of been a disaster had they had glue on them. As you can probably see some of the fragile photo etched railings received some damage in my struggles but they are pretty easy to repair. I then put in the engine room and then
    8 points
  22. Well here's today's progress. Of course it doesn't take long to snap together parts, but I needed to do some painting and I want to take my time. I found the instructions a bit vague and I'm noticing that some things don't match their depiction in the diagrams. The hull is made of white plastic and I was to paint it black but to leave the up-raised parts white. Since this is impossible to do on such a small scale, I applied the supplied black acrylic paint across the whole hull and simply wiped and scraped back the parts that were to be left white. I doubt I would have known how to do th
    8 points
  23. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    I knew that old broken meat thermometer would come in handy some day;it's exactly the right diameter for the Britain's funnel! Using the scale drawings I mark out where the masts should be.They are named as days of the week,Monday through to Saturday. The GB went through many mast changes and rigging throughout her career but this is going to portray her as in 1845.
    8 points
  24. IgorSky

    What's on your workbench?

    Hello, everybody! I was away for a while, but my work was progressing... Best Regards! Igor.
    8 points
  25. Onni

    HMS FURY 1942

    Went out and bought some light blue felt just to finish off the inside of the old whiskey box and added/glued the ship's badge onto the side...and she's done. Pity Dad's not around to see it ,think he would of loved her.
    8 points
  26. Work on the card/paper models continued with finishing up the masts and bowsprit/jib boom. The process for making the top and topgallant masts was similar to the work involved with making the lower masts. Various sized rods and tubes were wrapped with brown paper, using a tube or rod of the appropriate size to make the final paper tube a bit larger than necessary. The next steps were to sand the glued paper tubes to the proper size and shape. This work was very tedious as the CA glue applied to the outside of the tubing only saturated the paper for a few layers. As the sanding reached those un
    7 points
  27. Chasseur

    Preussen Clipper

    Some more progress!
    7 points
  28. Boy just when you think you know something... I spent all day today and managed to get the first of the two catamarans in the bottle. I had to use a small roll of putty to squish the hulls into to keep them straight.
    7 points
  29. Onni

    What's on your workbench?

    "Fram" designed and built by Colin Archer and used by Roald Amundsen for his Antarctic expedition.
    7 points
  30. A piece of thinner cardboard was then soaked in a bath of maple stain, to saturate it completely and evenly with color. I had tried just brushing stain on the board first, but the colorization was too uneven. Lines were then drawn on the board, spaced 1/32" apart, and the thin board templates used to trace the shape of the decks onto the stained board. These were cut out and tested to fit in their places, but not glued down yet. I also traced the outside edges of the main, lower, deck onto a non-lined area of the stained board and cut waterways for the hull. Following photos show some of this
    7 points
  31. Picked up some bamboo skewers. The difference from regular wooden dowels is amazing, the bamboo is so incredibly strong. Playing with ideas of how to "peg" it together once through the mouth of the bottle.
    7 points
  32. Chasseur

    Preussen Clipper

    So the stand is complete and the seas installed inside the bottle.
    7 points
  33. Donald

    Mayflower

    Finished up the stand and cleaned most of the glue from inside the bottle. I guess she's pretty much finished. Now, ...what next?
    7 points
  34. Finally got back to it, not much change apart from a couple of ladders and a hatch cover, just need to keep away from distractions and crack on! 😁
    7 points
  35. Donald

    Mayflower

    Trial and error with sails today. I first printed some with seams, telltales, reef lines etc., then sized it accordingly. Then I thought, well it's only printed on one side so I printed another set cut them out and glued together. The print lines were too dark for me, so I tried painting the sails white and weathered looking but in the end I thought it looked terrible so... I took them off and started over. I am happier with the refit. I still need to shave down the anchors a bit and clean up the hull, touch up some paint etc. but she's slowly getting there.
    7 points
  36. Donald

    Mayflower

    While I am not going to stress about being 100% accurate with the dimensions and rigging of the real ship, I would like there to be a reasonable likeness. Little things like painting the gun port lid, below the waterline white, and adding a British rudder pendant. When I think it looks pretty good and then I take a close up picture, it looks horrible with all her flaws highlighted. I suppose it's good that your eye doesn't pick up most of those flaws once in the bottle but I feel like my work is rather sloppy. Something to work on.
    7 points
  37. Donald

    Mayflower

    Worked the stern and rudder a bit more. Since the hull is split, and the deck is split I had to hide where they slide together, hopefully it looks convincing.
    7 points
  38. Charlotte Rhodes, adapted from a plan in "Modeling Ships in Bottles" by Jack Needham.
    7 points
  39. Donald

    Mayflower

    Making some progress. I have been agonizing over how to rig this, and I am going to try something a bit different for me. I have a SIB built by Jonny Reinhert and the way he rigged this ship is unique. It appears as though he made several "loops" (arrows point to them in pics) of thread rigging that, once in the bottle he would manipulate onto a post or mast end, instead of utilizing a lot of thread through the mouth of the bottle. The channels and blocks appear to be pinned to the side of the hull. I am shamelessly going to try and copy his method. I don't want to be too optimistic but I fee
    7 points
  40. Donald

    Mayflower

    Stepped out of the room for the summer. The cold has forced me back in to hibernate. Getting some masts, rigging etc. going. Played around a bit with my bottle holder.
    7 points
  41. Lubber123

    US Lexington 1776

    Finally made some more progress on this. I had used an old watch gear to make a ship's wheel the last time I made this SIB so I reprised that method and also made a capstan out of a gear. Then I found some watches that I think I might be able to repair and got sidetracked repairing all my old watches and bands! Another hobby for another forum I suppose. Well here is my current progress. I have the deck detail done so now it's on to grinding down dowels for the masts, yards and spars. I left the ship's boat loose on deck to see if it doesn't interfere with folding down the foremast once I'
    7 points
  42. Dam Dam! Plan "A" didn't go to as planned! Just have to sort out a few threads, and figure out Plan "B"!! Cheers, Mick Just a quick update, I've almost sorted them all out, and at least no damage was done, inserting or un-inserting!! Mick
    7 points
  43. Very excited to contribute to this friendly and knowledgeable forum. I'm a complete newbie in so many ways, but excited to learn and have a go. I chose the Bluenose because (a) I think it's really a beautiful boat, (b) seemed like a reasonable challenge level for a first SiB, and (c) I really like the story behind the Fisherman's Cup. I'll definitely be getting a Canadian coin to finish off the bottle. Here's the bottle. I got two identical "Hand-blown made in Italy bottles" from eBay for $9 + shipping. Opening is 3/4" which seems good. With pen for scale. This post concerns my
    7 points
  44. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    Continued with some of the deck features.'Daisy' the Guernsey cow with her cow shed amongst other items. The two Trottman anchors are made out of wire and plastic.Not happy with the engine house skylight so I will probably make a new one.
    7 points
  45. joe100

    HMS Glatton, 1918, 1/1500

    Greetings. I’d like to share my latest model, HMS Glatton as she appeared in the final hours of the war. The model is completely scratch built to 1/1500 scale or 125’ to 1”. The model is made from boxwood, brass, and the sea base is carved and painted wood. Paint is from ScaleColors of course. If you’d like to see more of my ships models they’re all on my website www.josephlavender.com I started this model a little before finishing Duilio, so total build time was about a month. Glatton, 5,746 tons displacement and her sister ship Gorgon were originally built for Norway but they wer
    7 points
  46. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    Time for some bling.I actually hate that word but it's probably a good description for all the golden stuff that adorns GB. The trailboards illustrate the artisans work on the ship but is very difficult to reproduce on such a small scale. I cut shards of plastic and then painted them gold to try to imitate the scroll work. The Lion and Unicorn support the royal shield under the bowsprit;they didn't work so well for me as I coudn't detach them from the grease proof paper without cutting them out with scissors.Fashioned a couple of catsheads,they will be fixed later. The stern is made out of thr
    7 points
  47. Chasseur

    Preussen Clipper

    Back onto it. Started cutting and installing porthole windows Midships. Special tool made to cut and install accordingly! 4 done far left, just a push in press fit no glue.
    7 points
  48. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    Added the fake gunports which I think make the hull more attractive. Next the funnel gets more work and the bridge/viewing platform is added. Doesn't look that much but it amounts to several hours work. Just hope it all goes as planned as this is one of my builds that is a build log under construction;most of my other build logs were already completed before I posted them so I am a little bit nervous about the end result of GB. A long way to go before completion though....
    7 points
  49. joe100

    SMS Emden 1914

    Greetings! Time to share some photos of the finished SMS Emden, 1/1500 scale. The model is completely built from scratch and depicts the ship as she appeared early on during her raiding cruise in the Pacific and Indian Oceans. The hull is made from boxwood, the balance of the detail is brass, and the rigging is a mix of copper and Nitinol wire. The sea base is carved from Nootka Cyprus and painted. As usual no resins or anything there, just paint. The base for the case is made from olive. The scale is 1/1500 or 125’ to the inch. You can see more of my work in my gallery. www.josephlaven
    7 points
  50. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    As before in some of my other models I have drilled through the ships hull with 2mm diameter holes so that I can peg it together later with cocktail sticks after i cut it up.It should then go back together and line up perfectly. I then cut up strips of white styrene (0,3 thickness) to try to mirror the plating on the real ship. It also makes it a lot easier to bend around the bow and stern. It looks a bit opaque but once its painted, it should be solid looking. Looks a bit of a mess so I have to use a bit of filler and sand it down. Gt Britain's hull is a bit difficult to replicate as she
    7 points
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