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  1. Greetings All, The work on the card and paper clipper model continued with quite a few more sealing and sanding, with small amounts of Bondo. Once I had a decent hull I made up the keel, stem and stern posts out of multiple layers of board. After reading more online about card models I learned to saturate the card stock with thinned down poly varnish, in order to make it stiffer and less prone to fraying when sanding. It also made cutting a wee bit harder, but worth the effort as it shapes up nicer when saturated. I did this by using a large art paint brush an
    12 points
  2. Greetings All, The work on the hull progressed by sanding down all the planking, to get as smooth and fair a surface as I could. I sanded, then applied poly varnish thinned 50/50 with paint thinner until it no longer soaked in. Waited for the varnish to dry, then sanded again. I repeated this process many times. While sanding I could see areas where the planks pushed inwards slightly, and small gaps in the finish. I used Bondo glazing and spot putty, applied with a stiff piece of styrene plastic, to cover the gaps and low spots. Again, after Bondo dried the hull was sealed and sanded. I d
    12 points
  3. She's Launched!!!! It's been a while since I've been here, but slowly bits have come together. There is a photo of the ship, rigged, (almost), sitting on the table, one of my launching tool,(launch ramp??),which is modelled after the Amarti tool I used for Hannah, and one of her in the bottle, with the air pump going to get rid of any fumes from the glue. I have the mast handling tool sorted out, it seems to work on the dummy runs, and a few suitable Swann Morton blades in the post, due very soon, which clip onto an extended handle. Now I just have to rig her! Cheers
    12 points
  4. West Country Trading Ketch Bessie Way back in 2016,when the world was normalish, the Royal Yacht Club asked the European Association of ships in Bottles to help fund raise for the UK Olympic Sailing Team by building and donating SIBs that had had the sail signed by a team member. I built two SIBs of this ship, see Build Log called ‘Going for Gold Build – Bessie’, so I won’t repeat that part of the build. I actually built 3 SIBs, using the third as a trial ship for some techniques, such as split hull, that I had not used before. Up until last year it sat on a shelf unfinished. I then thoug
    11 points
  5. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    Funnel goes in and then the main mast. Decided to leave off 'Daisy' and the cow shed as I thought the deck could look a bit too cluttered.( It's possible that I can add them later if I want to.) Main mast in place with no problems and then set in the foremast. The bowsprit gave me a few problems as the glue didn't set on the first attempt because the mounting hole inside is made up of a plastic and wood wafer construction, so in the end I used an epoxy glue to fix it firmly. Finally completed GB after several months work but unfortunately I didn't notice that the top flying jig rigging had tan
    11 points
  6. Working without plans or proper procedures is a bit of a chore. I had to manufacture some of my own parts like dead-eyes, braces and mast hoops. I rigged the yardarms onto hoops so that they are adjustable instead of gluing them directly to the masts as I think was the intention - which would have been hard since I don't have plans that tell me where they should be glued. So I'm either making things up as I go along or researching other models to figure out what things should look like. I've used parts left over from some other kits I've built and I borrowed the mast, gaff and boom rigging sc
    11 points
  7. I've been intrigued lately when viewing build logs on the NRG web site, among other places. Decided I would give it a try and see how it all works. I started by viewing the vast number of CAD ship plans I've developed over 40 years of modeling sailing vessels. I was interested in something fairly simply, but one I had enough information already drawn up in plans. I ended up settling on the clipper Flying Cloud. I drew up the plans 27 years ago for a ship in bottle model at 1:750 scale. For a card/paper model I decided on a scale of 1:350, making the hull slightly over 8" long.
    10 points
  8. Trial and error on my "deck" or trampoline. I first tried to paint some silk-span black and make the deck from it but it would tear and I couldn't make the line look consistent where it laces together. After noodling around for a couple days, I scrapped that idea and went with cardboard. It is more stiff and able to handle the thread being pulled taught. Had to take a couple days off to set up a hockey rink in our backyard as there appeared to be a long cold snap coming, only for Mother Nature to warm things just enough to make the neighborhood kids wait until Chri
    10 points
  9. Donald

    Mayflower

    To say this has been an exercise in patience, would be a gross understatement. I got 'er in the bottle without "major" disaster but there were quite a few things that went wrong. The post on the stern broke off(in the bottle), that was an absolute bear to try to glue back on for the rigging to loop on. My control lines all broke, ( foolishly used thread I had not tried before) I got glue in the peg holes, ...before the pegs got in there, I still have a bit of glue residue inside the bottle that I think I will be able to clean alright. My stern lantern wouldn't fit through the neck so I had to
    10 points
  10. This is the ship finished. I made some mistakes, such as not measuring the width from the bottle, so the mast was smaller that it should be, but i like the result. I hope you like it.
    10 points
  11. A hoy! I have been working on the masts, yards and ratlines. I bought some fly tying silk and it is very fine. However it is not a single strand, but multiple ultrafine threads laid up together. They are not braided together, which means they easily fray and seperate. But I'm reasonably happy with the results I've got for the ratlines. Shroud lines are standard sowing thread. I set the shrouds up with the correct number of strands and angle, then overlaid the silk ratlines. With tape holding everything in place I dabbed super glue all over it, then absorbed/wiped up the excess glue.
    10 points
  12. tazam0827

    Asgard

    It occurred to me that I never finished this build log. Didn't want to leave you all hanging. I'm sure you were on the edge of your seat! I wasn't super happy with the results. But in the interest of sharing our disappointments as well as our triumphs, here it is. I should have spent more time smoothing the hull after I made some design changes, The proportion of the masts wasn't quite right and I think I should have included the topsails. Also, if you're going to make your ship heel, make sure it heels towards the front of the bottle. Otherwise it
    10 points
  13. Hi All. I've done the hand-rails,(Gunnels?, Capping rails?, Bannisters?, Not sure of the correct terminology.) Made from polyester thread, wiped with super-glue (CA), then wiped with a rag. Makes the thread quite rigid. Then glued with CA. The canons aren't loaded yet, but they are made from styrene. Cheers Mick
    10 points
  14. Bruce Foxworthy

    AMERICA

    So here she is on her stand. I'm so glad she turned out okay. Regards Bruce.
    10 points
  15. Recently one of the guys on the forum noticed a tool I had made showing up in the background of one of the photos I had posted about my current build project. He really liked it and said he was going to rip off my idea. The Nerve! LOL. I made this tool years ago to assist me in putting my ships in there bottles and it really never occurred to me that maybe it had some merit for others in our art. Anyway to make a short story short, I told James, that I would draw up a print and then he could make his own. As I was contemplating doing this, it had been on my mind for some time to make a better
    10 points
  16. Greetings All, Work on the second hull continued with the start of a first layer of planking. This time I used well saturated cardboard that was thinner than that used on the first hull. These planks were stiffer, but also much more brittle. I also changed things up a little by using a white card stock, also saturated with thinned poly varnish, to delineate the waterline. The following photos show this work in progress. One thing to note is that this time I did not fill in the bow and stern areas with solid card stock, not sure if it was a good idea or not, it make planking mu
    9 points
  17. Greetings All, Before continuing with this build article I would like to review some of what I've learned, and how it affects the work as it progresses. First of all I have learned that I need to soak/saturate the card stock from packaging much better. Originally I only used multiple painted coats of thinned poly varnish to do this work. I was only saturating the uncolored side, which is in effect sealed off by the printing. I have since learned to sand the colored side of the card stock, using 320 grit sandpaper and a small wood block, to roughen up the surface and remove as
    9 points
  18. Continuing on with my card/paper Flying Cloud model build. The next step was to fill in between bulkheads and keel at the bow and stern with layers of board cut to fit as I added them. Photos below shows the results after cutting and shaping them a bit, and applying CA glue to harden them. I also started sanding the bulkheads edges to fair in the hull shape. What I found was that in many places the weaker inner parts of the board would splay the outer harder parts outward as I sanded. I continued sanding and fairing the hull, had to apply CA glue between each sanding session.
    9 points
  19. 9 points
  20. Hi All. I hope everyone is well, and getting over this Covid thing. I've been playing with the ratlines. With no success! I tried several jigs, copied or adapted from others on this forum, but I couldn't get the ratlines to cut flat with the shrouds, using nail trimmers, knives ....., and they looked terrible. So I have decided to go without them. Sometimes, less is more! I've also changed my gluing technique. I use thin CA to initially fix things in place, a bit like tack welding, then use ZAP thick CA to hold it all permanently in place. The thick might take a whi
    9 points
  21. Greetings All, I had the idea of taking a method for making ship's boats I developed and testing whether it might work for much larger hulls. It was all experimental, so I wasn't taking photos as I worked, but since the idea worked out well I redid all the work covering it with photos to show how. Some of you may have seen my work with ship's boat hulls being made by using a plug of the hull shape, covering that plug with cigarette papers whetted with diluted white (pva} glue. Believe I have a video showing how this is done on Vimeo, do not have the URL for that but you can look it up on
    9 points
  22. 9 points
  23. I've finally finished the main mast and rigging. The small scale of the model forced me to approach the build from the bottom to up; from the front to the back and from the inside to out, so not everything gets put in place the way a real ship would be built. I would normally leave details to the end but something like the ensign was easier to apply while the main mast was off the model. The ensign is a 30 star US flag (circa 1850), something I wanted to add to balance the made-in-China stigma of the kit. Some of the tensioning in the rigging might also have been tighter if I didn't need to bu
    9 points
  24. Sails and rigging finished up. Sails were coated in white glue to give them some rigidity but still remain flexible. I probably could’ve glued the jibs directly to the line instead of sewing them, but the extra movement made things easier going into the bottle. Got her in without any major problems. Nothing broken and no glue failures. Spent the better part of the day getting the lines untangled and organized. Keeping the lines tight and getting them glued is proving to be a challenge. Lots of lessons learned for the next build. Still need to cut the lines,
    9 points
  25. Try drilling any holes in the masts and yards before taking down to size. I also use a small dab of thinned varnish (acrylic is good and available in small bottles from hobby shops) or CA glue to strengthen the hole. Re-drill when dry, then size the mast. I use a home made drill guide (shown below). Its made from a bit of brass right angle, a small flat filed on top as shown and a number of holes for different bit sizes drilled in it. If you want to drill into the end of a dowel, a small countersink on the underside, and tapering the end helps. Have fun and stay safe Al
    9 points
  26. I'm just about done with the deck details. I included as many upgrades, embellishments, improvements and details (also mistakes) as I dared. I had some materials left over from two other models that I put to use. I early abandoned all hope of historical accuracy and the scale of the model is too small for true accuracy so I decided to make the model "my own": I upgraded the cannon barrels and carriages and lashed them down; I included two swivel guns in the aft; I fashioned cannon balls from pin heads and mounted them into the ball racks; I made belaying pins from brass wire (I also had some l
    9 points
  27. Hi All. A bit more progress! The Main and Mizzen are now on deck, at the moment just sitting there. I think I'll do the lower shrouds at a later date, mainly so they don't get damaged, and more importantly, they don't get tangled! I've put the sheets on the gaff sail, and they are becoming a nightmare, so those bits and pieces of thread which will end up hanging out of the bottle come launching time will be sorted out later. Still a bit more to do! Cheers, and stay safe. Mick
    9 points
  28. Donald

    Mayflower

    Slowly building her up, scuppers, more planking. I have been playing with this for a couple weeks and this is the point I am at currently.
    9 points
  29. Bruce Foxworthy

    Viking Ship

    I've been able to work on my Viking ship the last few days. With all this staying home now, I think I'll start moveing along better in the coming week. Here are some pics of where she's at presently. Stay safe guys and gals.
    9 points
  30. Hi All. Above the water-line is planked, the bulwarks are on, I wanted to plank below the water line, but it wouldn't happen! So it's painted, with "white stuff". The gunwales (capping rails?)are next, followed by the transom, and then the deck furniture, cannons, wheel, capstan, jolly-boat,anchors,other stuff. And masts etc. The list goes on and on.... Cheers Mick
    9 points
  31. Bruce Foxworthy

    Viking Ship

    I like to use colored Magic Markers as much as possible in my builds because they dry so fast and don't add additional thickness to the material like paint does. Here's a picture of how I'm painting the shields with the Magic Marker. This last picture shows all the 17 shields placed onto a noodle of clay and they will say here until I get ready to mount them on the sides of the hull. That's all for today. Regards Bruce
    9 points
  32. Bruce Foxworthy

    Viking Ship

    Ahoy! Today is Wednesday , and we have a snow dump coming today here in Michigan. Not much, but I'm pretty sure it will be the last of our winters shenanigans for this year. Anyway I was able to do some work on my Viking ship today. This is the first time I have chosen to carve out the inside of my hull and it is a chore for sure. The first picture shows that I'm drilling a hole to help create the dragons tail which I will develop more as the build goes on. The next pictures show my progress in carving out the inside dimensions of the hull. The last picture shows that I am creat
    9 points
  33. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    Fifty years ago this month (July) SS Great Britain returned to Bristol from the Falkland islands where she had been used as a storage hulk for many years and then abandoned. Built by Brunel in 1843 she was the first iron steamer to cross the Atlantic. She is now fully restored . I am going to try to build her as she first looked after her launch. On a trip to England last year picked up a Large 'Bell's' Whisky bottle so I was thinking that would be suitable enough for this large ship. I must of looked quite funny or a bit suspicious walking through customs with a huge bottle sticking out of my
    8 points
  34. Donald

    Mayflower

    Made and raised the Union flag and The English Cross of St. George. Trimmed the anchors a bit, pulled 'em up to the catheads and hooked up the "chains" from the hawse holes. Touched up the 2 cannons, made a new capstan. Planning on sprit sail, stern lantern and control lines to chain wales soon.
    8 points
  35. I have also made these paper and card hulls for many years using similar items as John but download ship plans/drawings from the internet and then resize them through Photoshop to a scale that I need for a particular bottle. I don't do this for every model as it is very time consuming and rather tedious but its just to give an idea of what the shape of a hull should look like. In the photo l-r Mayflower,PT109,Black Pearl.
    8 points
  36. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    All the hull parts fitted through the bottle neck relativity easily but I had tremendous trouble to lift the front end of the starboard top piece over the front lug to secure it (Second photo). It actually took me about an hour before it snuggly slipped in place (Third photo).Luckily I had already designed these pieces to fit together without being glued otherwise it would of been a disaster had they had glue on them. As you can probably see some of the fragile photo etched railings received some damage in my struggles but they are pretty easy to repair. I then put in the engine room and then
    8 points
  37. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    I knew that old broken meat thermometer would come in handy some day;it's exactly the right diameter for the Britain's funnel! Using the scale drawings I mark out where the masts should be.They are named as days of the week,Monday through to Saturday. The GB went through many mast changes and rigging throughout her career but this is going to portray her as in 1845.
    8 points
  38. IgorSky

    What's on your workbench?

    Hello, everybody! I was away for a while, but my work was progressing... Best Regards! Igor.
    8 points
  39. It's definitely not the best most of you guys have seen or done! ha. But this is my third ship and second bottled. It was a massive learning curve!! The bottle was so tight to work with! But personally it looks better the tighter the squeeze! I made alot of mistakes and cursed quite abit too, obviously all part of learning!! It's all done by hand as the book suggests and as I would prefer. Here's the pics in order I hope...
    8 points
  40. exwafoo

    Mast Making

    Hi All, Hope you are all keeping safe. There has been a bit of talk about mast drilling and jigs, etc over the past few months. I thought I'd kill a couple of hours in lockdown putting together a screed on how I do it and the jigs I've made to help me. Hope its of interest. best Alan Mast drilling jigs..pdf
    8 points
  41. I'm new in this hobbie, so i decided to build the Bermuda Sloop from the DSiemens tutorial, that helped me a lot to understand how to do a good ship in a bottle. I share my work (sorry if my english is bad, i dont speak it very well). I could't get flat sticks, so I made mine.
    8 points
  42. Onni

    What's on your workbench?

    Okay, it's HMS Captain which sunk in the Bay of Biscay in 1870. A Victorian navy turret ship which had a dangerously low freeboard. She goes together well with my other model;HMS Inflexible.
    8 points
  43. Thanks Micky, my sentiments exactly! Along those lines, I spoke with my helmsman and he said he was tired of getting splinters in his hands and a sore back from horsing around that old-fashion tiller, so I upgraded the helm to a more convenient to operate ship's wheel - although it only has five spokes. (I fashioned it out of an old watch gear I had in my box-o-junk and some brass wire for handles). I suppose the original Harvey could have had a tiller and the "desk" in front of it seems consistent with a tiller arrangement but I had to turn the "desk" around and make a wheel box out of it.
    8 points
  44. Onni

    CSS Alabama

    She's ready. Took some photographs outside in the natural light. Painted the knot red but then got inspired to make a red,white and blue theme with stars on the stopper. The anchor with a line under it on the bottle top, is a nod to the Davenport crockery found at the wreak site. Hope you like it.
    8 points
  45. Finally got back to the AM Privateer kit. I find the most interesting part of the kit to be the nice "Dutch Flask" bottle and stand so this build is more a "bottle with a ship in it" then a "ship built into a bottle". The ship is a generic brig with no real historical content but some of the materials are nice, especially the hull and a nice set of sail materials. The spool of thread included with the kit is useless but the bamboo cocktail skewer material for the mast and spars sanded down nicely. Of course the putty for the sea is too hardened to be of use. I had to fair out the stand t
    8 points
  46. Bruce Foxworthy

    Viking Ship

    Well It's another Sunday, and March first at that: And Mommy only had me replace the garage door hinges and rollers today. Good thing too, cause most of them were broken. I'd be lost without her supervision. I'm so glad she keeps me on task because on my own, I'd be in my bottle for sure. LOL! After chores, I went into my Hobby Center room and started to figure out what I was going to do about making the oars for my Viking ship. Originally, I was thinking of making them out of pretty hard piano wire which I have on hand in different sizes. Then for what ever reason I t
    8 points
  47. Greetings, Been experimenting with making gratings for my 1:96 scale sandbagger model. Photos sort of explain everything. Started out with some fairly stiff, .010" thick brownish orange card stock. Used red mahogany wiping stain and a kleenex tissue to darken the card stock. The card was then cut into strips 3" long and just under 1/32" wide. I made a jig out of aluminum, gleaned from the spouts of cardboard salt containers, designed to hold the strips about 1/32" apart. Strips were then slid into the jig and extended about 1/4", then another strip was slid under them at 90 degrees from t
    8 points
  48. Bruce Foxworthy

    Viking Ship

    As you can see I'm using a tong depressor for the keel and dragons tail /head, rough cutting it out with my hobby jig saw. Obviously I'm going to have to put the dragons head on after the ship is in the bottle so I have separated it from the main keel lines construct. Hopefully this will turn out okay. I like the lines on this drawing and the fact that there aren't so may oars is a plus for me . After all I just want to get the idea across in a bottle. More to come as I go along.
    8 points
  49. Hi all. Deck planking is done! More to come. Cheers Mick
    8 points
  50. This zebec is the most challenging hull shape to shape that I’ve done so far, struggling to get it to look right at the moment because of the waterline, if I carve much more off I think I might have to start again!
    8 points
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