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  1. Greetings All, The work on the card and paper clipper model continued with quite a few more sealing and sanding, with small amounts of Bondo. Once I had a decent hull I made up the keel, stem and stern posts out of multiple layers of board. After reading more online about card models I learned to saturate the card stock with thinned down poly varnish, in order to make it stiffer and less prone to fraying when sanding. It also made cutting a wee bit harder, but worth the effort as it shapes up nicer when saturated. I did this by using a large art paint brush an
    12 points
  2. Greetings All, The work on the hull progressed by sanding down all the planking, to get as smooth and fair a surface as I could. I sanded, then applied poly varnish thinned 50/50 with paint thinner until it no longer soaked in. Waited for the varnish to dry, then sanded again. I repeated this process many times. While sanding I could see areas where the planks pushed inwards slightly, and small gaps in the finish. I used Bondo glazing and spot putty, applied with a stiff piece of styrene plastic, to cover the gaps and low spots. Again, after Bondo dried the hull was sealed and sanded. I d
    12 points
  3. She's Launched!!!! It's been a while since I've been here, but slowly bits have come together. There is a photo of the ship, rigged, (almost), sitting on the table, one of my launching tool,(launch ramp??),which is modelled after the Amarti tool I used for Hannah, and one of her in the bottle, with the air pump going to get rid of any fumes from the glue. I have the mast handling tool sorted out, it seems to work on the dummy runs, and a few suitable Swann Morton blades in the post, due very soon, which clip onto an extended handle. Now I just have to rig her! Cheers
    12 points
  4. exwafoo

    Mast Making

    Hi All, Hope you are all keeping safe. There has been a bit of talk about mast drilling and jigs, etc over the past few months. I thought I'd kill a couple of hours in lockdown putting together a screed on how I do it and the jigs I've made to help me. Hope its of interest. best Alan Mast drilling jigs..pdf
    11 points
  5. West Country Trading Ketch Bessie Way back in 2016,when the world was normalish, the Royal Yacht Club asked the European Association of ships in Bottles to help fund raise for the UK Olympic Sailing Team by building and donating SIBs that had had the sail signed by a team member. I built two SIBs of this ship, see Build Log called ‘Going for Gold Build – Bessie’, so I won’t repeat that part of the build. I actually built 3 SIBs, using the third as a trial ship for some techniques, such as split hull, that I had not used before. Up until last year it sat on a shelf unfinished. I then thoug
    11 points
  6. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    Funnel goes in and then the main mast. Decided to leave off 'Daisy' and the cow shed as I thought the deck could look a bit too cluttered.( It's possible that I can add them later if I want to.) Main mast in place with no problems and then set in the foremast. The bowsprit gave me a few problems as the glue didn't set on the first attempt because the mounting hole inside is made up of a plastic and wood wafer construction, so in the end I used an epoxy glue to fix it firmly. Finally completed GB after several months work but unfortunately I didn't notice that the top flying jig rigging had tan
    11 points
  7. Working without plans or proper procedures is a bit of a chore. I had to manufacture some of my own parts like dead-eyes, braces and mast hoops. I rigged the yardarms onto hoops so that they are adjustable instead of gluing them directly to the masts as I think was the intention - which would have been hard since I don't have plans that tell me where they should be glued. So I'm either making things up as I go along or researching other models to figure out what things should look like. I've used parts left over from some other kits I've built and I borrowed the mast, gaff and boom rigging sc
    11 points
  8. I've been intrigued lately when viewing build logs on the NRG web site, among other places. Decided I would give it a try and see how it all works. I started by viewing the vast number of CAD ship plans I've developed over 40 years of modeling sailing vessels. I was interested in something fairly simply, but one I had enough information already drawn up in plans. I ended up settling on the clipper Flying Cloud. I drew up the plans 27 years ago for a ship in bottle model at 1:750 scale. For a card/paper model I decided on a scale of 1:350, making the hull slightly over 8" long.
    10 points
  9. Trial and error on my "deck" or trampoline. I first tried to paint some silk-span black and make the deck from it but it would tear and I couldn't make the line look consistent where it laces together. After noodling around for a couple days, I scrapped that idea and went with cardboard. It is more stiff and able to handle the thread being pulled taught. Had to take a couple days off to set up a hockey rink in our backyard as there appeared to be a long cold snap coming, only for Mother Nature to warm things just enough to make the neighborhood kids wait until Chri
    10 points
  10. Donald

    Mayflower

    To say this has been an exercise in patience, would be a gross understatement. I got 'er in the bottle without "major" disaster but there were quite a few things that went wrong. The post on the stern broke off(in the bottle), that was an absolute bear to try to glue back on for the rigging to loop on. My control lines all broke, ( foolishly used thread I had not tried before) I got glue in the peg holes, ...before the pegs got in there, I still have a bit of glue residue inside the bottle that I think I will be able to clean alright. My stern lantern wouldn't fit through the neck so I had to
    10 points
  11. 10 points
  12. This is the ship finished. I made some mistakes, such as not measuring the width from the bottle, so the mast was smaller that it should be, but i like the result. I hope you like it.
    10 points
  13. Just completed Hms Campbeltown (ex 131 Buchanan) depicting the raid on St.Nazaire docks in 1942. Not that easy to depict a dockyard in a 75cl bottle but you get the idea.
    9 points
  14. Greetings All, Work on the second hull continued with the start of a first layer of planking. This time I used well saturated cardboard that was thinner than that used on the first hull. These planks were stiffer, but also much more brittle. I also changed things up a little by using a white card stock, also saturated with thinned poly varnish, to delineate the waterline. The following photos show this work in progress. One thing to note is that this time I did not fill in the bow and stern areas with solid card stock, not sure if it was a good idea or not, it make planking mu
    9 points
  15. Greetings All, Before continuing with this build article I would like to review some of what I've learned, and how it affects the work as it progresses. First of all I have learned that I need to soak/saturate the card stock from packaging much better. Originally I only used multiple painted coats of thinned poly varnish to do this work. I was only saturating the uncolored side, which is in effect sealed off by the printing. I have since learned to sand the colored side of the card stock, using 320 grit sandpaper and a small wood block, to roughen up the surface and remove as
    9 points
  16. Continuing on with my card/paper Flying Cloud model build. The next step was to fill in between bulkheads and keel at the bow and stern with layers of board cut to fit as I added them. Photos below shows the results after cutting and shaping them a bit, and applying CA glue to harden them. I also started sanding the bulkheads edges to fair in the hull shape. What I found was that in many places the weaker inner parts of the board would splay the outer harder parts outward as I sanded. I continued sanding and fairing the hull, had to apply CA glue between each sanding session.
    9 points
  17. Hi All. I hope everyone is well, and getting over this Covid thing. I've been playing with the ratlines. With no success! I tried several jigs, copied or adapted from others on this forum, but I couldn't get the ratlines to cut flat with the shrouds, using nail trimmers, knives ....., and they looked terrible. So I have decided to go without them. Sometimes, less is more! I've also changed my gluing technique. I use thin CA to initially fix things in place, a bit like tack welding, then use ZAP thick CA to hold it all permanently in place. The thick might take a whi
    9 points
  18. 9 points
  19. I've finally finished the main mast and rigging. The small scale of the model forced me to approach the build from the bottom to up; from the front to the back and from the inside to out, so not everything gets put in place the way a real ship would be built. I would normally leave details to the end but something like the ensign was easier to apply while the main mast was off the model. The ensign is a 30 star US flag (circa 1850), something I wanted to add to balance the made-in-China stigma of the kit. Some of the tensioning in the rigging might also have been tighter if I didn't need to bu
    9 points
  20. Sails and rigging finished up. Sails were coated in white glue to give them some rigidity but still remain flexible. I probably could’ve glued the jibs directly to the line instead of sewing them, but the extra movement made things easier going into the bottle. Got her in without any major problems. Nothing broken and no glue failures. Spent the better part of the day getting the lines untangled and organized. Keeping the lines tight and getting them glued is proving to be a challenge. Lots of lessons learned for the next build. Still need to cut the lines,
    9 points
  21. Try drilling any holes in the masts and yards before taking down to size. I also use a small dab of thinned varnish (acrylic is good and available in small bottles from hobby shops) or CA glue to strengthen the hole. Re-drill when dry, then size the mast. I use a home made drill guide (shown below). Its made from a bit of brass right angle, a small flat filed on top as shown and a number of holes for different bit sizes drilled in it. If you want to drill into the end of a dowel, a small countersink on the underside, and tapering the end helps. Have fun and stay safe Al
    9 points
  22. Destroyed the deck trying to squeeze it in, so hurriedly had to make a new one out of slightly thinner veneer. Luckily second attempt succeeded.
    8 points
  23. Just messing around with a quick "Bluenose" to launch in a little pumpkinseed bottle.
    8 points
  24. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    Fifty years ago this month (July) SS Great Britain returned to Bristol from the Falkland islands where she had been used as a storage hulk for many years and then abandoned. Built by Brunel in 1843 she was the first iron steamer to cross the Atlantic. She is now fully restored . I am going to try to build her as she first looked after her launch. On a trip to England last year picked up a Large 'Bell's' Whisky bottle so I was thinking that would be suitable enough for this large ship. I must of looked quite funny or a bit suspicious walking through customs with a huge bottle sticking out of my
    8 points
  25. Donald

    Mayflower

    Made and raised the Union flag and The English Cross of St. George. Trimmed the anchors a bit, pulled 'em up to the catheads and hooked up the "chains" from the hawse holes. Touched up the 2 cannons, made a new capstan. Planning on sprit sail, stern lantern and control lines to chain wales soon.
    8 points
  26. I have also made these paper and card hulls for many years using similar items as John but download ship plans/drawings from the internet and then resize them through Photoshop to a scale that I need for a particular bottle. I don't do this for every model as it is very time consuming and rather tedious but its just to give an idea of what the shape of a hull should look like. In the photo l-r Mayflower,PT109,Black Pearl.
    8 points
  27. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    All the hull parts fitted through the bottle neck relativity easily but I had tremendous trouble to lift the front end of the starboard top piece over the front lug to secure it (Second photo). It actually took me about an hour before it snuggly slipped in place (Third photo).Luckily I had already designed these pieces to fit together without being glued otherwise it would of been a disaster had they had glue on them. As you can probably see some of the fragile photo etched railings received some damage in my struggles but they are pretty easy to repair. I then put in the engine room and then
    8 points
  28. Well here's today's progress. Of course it doesn't take long to snap together parts, but I needed to do some painting and I want to take my time. I found the instructions a bit vague and I'm noticing that some things don't match their depiction in the diagrams. The hull is made of white plastic and I was to paint it black but to leave the up-raised parts white. Since this is impossible to do on such a small scale, I applied the supplied black acrylic paint across the whole hull and simply wiped and scraped back the parts that were to be left white. I doubt I would have known how to do th
    8 points
  29. Onni

    SS Great Britain

    I knew that old broken meat thermometer would come in handy some day;it's exactly the right diameter for the Britain's funnel! Using the scale drawings I mark out where the masts should be.They are named as days of the week,Monday through to Saturday. The GB went through many mast changes and rigging throughout her career but this is going to portray her as in 1845.
    8 points
  30. IgorSky

    What's on your workbench?

    Hello, everybody! I was away for a while, but my work was progressing... Best Regards! Igor.
    8 points
  31. Onni

    HMS FURY 1942

    Went out and bought some light blue felt just to finish off the inside of the old whiskey box and added/glued the ship's badge onto the side...and she's done. Pity Dad's not around to see it ,think he would of loved her.
    8 points
  32. It's definitely not the best most of you guys have seen or done! ha. But this is my third ship and second bottled. It was a massive learning curve!! The bottle was so tight to work with! But personally it looks better the tighter the squeeze! I made alot of mistakes and cursed quite abit too, obviously all part of learning!! It's all done by hand as the book suggests and as I would prefer. Here's the pics in order I hope...
    8 points
  33. I'm new in this hobbie, so i decided to build the Bermuda Sloop from the DSiemens tutorial, that helped me a lot to understand how to do a good ship in a bottle. I share my work (sorry if my english is bad, i dont speak it very well). I could't get flat sticks, so I made mine.
    8 points
  34. A little bit more done.
    8 points
  35. The botlle was very long, so i decided to make a lighthouse
    8 points
  36. Slow going, got the rear deck and bowsprit done, but now on hold while i build something else!
    8 points
  37. Onni

    What's on your workbench?

    Okay, it's HMS Captain which sunk in the Bay of Biscay in 1870. A Victorian navy turret ship which had a dangerously low freeboard. She goes together well with my other model;HMS Inflexible.
    8 points
  38. Donald

    Mayflower

    Putting some masts, crows nests and rails together.
    8 points
  39. Onni

    What's on your workbench?

    "Fram" designed and built by Colin Archer and used by Roald Amundsen for his Antarctic expedition.
    7 points
  40. Onni

    What's on your workbench?

    Yes I did;it came to approx 72 hours for my rendition of the Golden Hind in 2013.
    7 points
  41. Donald

    Mayflower

    While I am not going to stress about being 100% accurate with the dimensions and rigging of the real ship, I would like there to be a reasonable likeness. Little things like painting the gun port lid, below the waterline white, and adding a British rudder pendant. When I think it looks pretty good and then I take a close up picture, it looks horrible with all her flaws highlighted. I suppose it's good that your eye doesn't pick up most of those flaws once in the bottle but I feel like my work is rather sloppy. Something to work on.
    7 points
  42. Donald

    Mayflower

    I am feeling pretty good about the odd rigging, still fine tuning that. I am beginning the stern and rudder today.
    7 points
  43. Charlotte Rhodes, adapted from a plan in "Modeling Ships in Bottles" by Jack Needham.
    7 points
  44. Donald

    Mayflower

    Making some progress. I have been agonizing over how to rig this, and I am going to try something a bit different for me. I have a SIB built by Jonny Reinhert and the way he rigged this ship is unique. It appears as though he made several "loops" (arrows point to them in pics) of thread rigging that, once in the bottle he would manipulate onto a post or mast end, instead of utilizing a lot of thread through the mouth of the bottle. The channels and blocks appear to be pinned to the side of the hull. I am shamelessly going to try and copy his method. I don't want to be too optimistic but I fee
    7 points
  45. I love working with wood. I love shaping it, carving it, sanding it and finishing it. I very much enjoy putting miniature wooden ships in bottles. I love recreating the ingenuity of the originators of this craft who worked with whatever materials they had on hand with improvised tools to produce small works of art. This kit is none of that. This kit is a miniature plastic ship model that will be placed into a glass bottle using the somewhat traditional technique of hinging the mast and erecting them via their rigging lines pulled from outside the bottle and then obscuring the lines t
    7 points
  46. I finally made some more progress on this kit. Not that it is very challenging, but I'm trying to follow the step by step instructions exactly so that maybe I can learn something but about all I am learning is how difficult it must be to properly write instructions and to assemble a kit. I'm finding left over parts that aren't called out anywhere. There was suppose to be an exact duplicate of parts for the mast and spars but I'm not finding an exact number of duplicate yardarms. There is suppose to be a "test jig" built into the holding stand but it isn't properly molded in. So right now I hav
    7 points
  47. Hi everyone, I am new to your site and through the little bit of checking out the pics before I registered I already love the place. I was introduced to ships in bottles by my dad and our first ship was a Cutty Sark in a Dimple bottle, dad did 99% of the project as I was still young but the bug bit. I did not immediately start building ships at that time but built a lot of aircraft from kits until school and socializing got in the way. I did continue woodworking at school as a subject though and loved it. I took up trying to build a ship to fit a dimple bottle 15 years ago but again a ne
    7 points
  48. HMS Queen Mary as she appeared in 1913:
    7 points
  49. Donald

    Mayflower

    I found myself getting careless and having to duplicate a lot of work, so I thought I would take a small break. So while not technically part of the build, I have started carving a stand for the Mayflower. Now, I'm about ready to give to stand a break and get back to the ship proper.
    7 points
  50. Sea is in, once dry, will be painted with acrylic.
    7 points
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