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Hi everyone I have been making ships in a bottle for years and just found this wonderful site for sharing in this unusual hobby not sure yet how to post and communicate but will keep trying

Great looking ships in bottles Geordie. I especially like the ones with lighthouses. Welcome aboard!

Welcome to the forum Geordie!

Hi, I'm going to put together some photos of the progress made. ¡ I remind you that it was made with photos from the internet, so after seeing many sail configurations, one of the most classic is this one. I make a first sketch. I adjust the sketch to the actual measurements and mark on the paper, lines that establish the hull-to-sails ratio, although there is no fixed rule there either, since this is the most usual. 89 I measure, measure and measure again, if you are able to see in the middle of the neck of the bottle there is a pencil mark, it coincides with the maximum height of the mast, a little further down there is another mark that indicates the opening of the curvature of the sails, the place where they can already have maximum width, I transfer to the sketch and it seems to be going well, it is more or less within those maximums, I take into account the thickness of the glass, I work with the internal measurement in the head. From the first image to the second, although they appear to be the same, there is a displacement of the mast of two millimeters to the right, I have not photographed it but from there the skewer goes to the sketch I check the variations and I know where I am going to have to drill the cover to locate the mast, the marks below help me to verify that at the moment, bottom, deck and rail are where they should be, the photo deflects the marks but they are in their exact place, it is checked with the sketch and the dimensions so far of the helmet. I don't know what these railings are called, but they also have some with vertical sticks on them to tie tackle. I put exactly the ones I have seen in a picture of a sailboat at a mooring. Once dry, I varnish the railings, for God's sake, someone tell me technical names, I'm here to learn... always keep it in mind. With the rest of the brush I go over the railings of the railing, they looked very dull, in the end we will see how the issue of varnish ends up in the light, it is not seen or I do not see it very bright in the photos, yes. He carried out a test with the measurements and I verified that my first sail design configuration does not work for me, later we will see why, that mast is short, I have to add more centimeters, curiously the longest one does admit the first configuration but flush the type of sail to the top of the mast or a foot higher, on the other hand with the short one it goes much higher a meter or more. A lot of changes await me. Ahhh, the skylight is freshly varnished it shows. Greetings.

Good afternoon: Let's see if today it is possible that not a word in spanish gets through, I will be watching more than yesterday... but I still don't understand what can happen, it exceeds my logical and analytical capacity. Today the idea is to show you how I made the sea for this model. Yesterday I told you diorama and this heat is making me delirious, this boat does not have a landscape, it goes in principle for the bottle that you will see. My strategy for today is few words and many photos... you're lucky you won't have to have an aspirin omelette for dinner because of my excessive verbiage. The white paper is a template that we have verified reproduces the oval of the tinted silicone that we have put in the bottle to simulate the depth. There are no photos of the process but you will see them. If everything is fine, I usually measure six times and cut one, the boat will be one millimeter on each side with respect to the interior glass and the mast will enter the neck of the bottle half. Everything we're going to need is here... Focus your attention on a template made with plastic sanded from the paper one, you can see the exact position of the helmet in another template below. The plastic template is surrounded by a twine thread two or three millimeters thick glued, it is the one that limits the height and expansion of the silicone. Determines the working zone of our sea. My method is always to glue wood against wood, that's why I make a small square, sometimes a strip, with two glued wooden sticks that fit into the holes in the hull. In this image you can see that the hull has been wrapped in kitchen plastic, which you cannot see and it is very IMPORTANT that you remember to remove the board from the bottom of the hull, wrap it and finally nail the board back in place by drilling the plastic . One thing that I have done for the first time, I always use tinted silicone, but this time to test how it works against an already tinted background, I have tried to glue the outline of the helmet with transparent silicone to see if I get a deeper effect of the helmet. I have also taken the opportunity to put the transparent silicone that will make the breaking wave of the bow in the plastic. Silicone like two index fingers and three drops of color, to match the one already inserted... the idea is a deep Atlantic sea. Stir to equalize and without beating so as not to introduce air. We fill from the inside out, remember that we just glued the hull with silicone without dye... the entire oval flush with the twine that gives us the height. They are simulated a little bit by distributing the unevenness that the sea creates and we place the bow plastic in the arched shape that we want the bow wave. The next day. The board where the helmet goes in its place... Not even hunger moves her from there. There are no photos of how to put and paste the sea inside. Only the twine is removed from the sea. It is left glued on the sanded plastic.T The sea is rolled up with the plastic part facing out and enters alone. It is supported on the side of the bottle and with a wire, or a drinking straw, drops of silicone are placed on the sea inside and a cord where the board goes. The sea is dropped on it and it is leveled flush. I promised little words and a lot of photo, at least the second I have fulfilled. Ufff...bad. Ufff...bad. Well? Yes, her well. Ufff...bad. Ufff...bad. Ufff...bad. Ufff...very bad. the only thing perfect is that the bowsprit is a millimeter from the glass. I knew that the bottle would deform but not in this brutal way. I don't know if it's worth it put it in it... but at the moment I don't have another, we'll see. Greetings.

Good afternoon, let's go with some progress... ...and setbacks, that there are, we leave them for later. I carefully examine the curvatures, heights, dimensions, proportions, which would be in addition to having fun for a while because I like what I see, performing optimal quality control... I remind you that I work without plans... which for me is always a difficulty . I am going to be very insistent on this subject, but as long as it can be recycled, reused and reduced... in this case this sheet metal, less than a millimeter thick, comes from the back of a painted plywood picture, which is it separated due to the effect of humidity... I washed it well, let it dry and now I have it for different uses. Forgive the photographer who is a mall, put your finger down. With this round strip of six millimeters in diameter I hope to be able to make the railings of the railing... for this it has been immersed in very hot water one night when I get up I change the water again no matter how hot it burns and after a After a while I put it in its holder, it is one of the two hulls I made in beech, identical to the ship's pine. It is left to dry on days when there are more tasks to do I add some wooden circles on the tips of the masts and bowsprit as I have seen in a photo on the internet, although they are actually metal and a cylinder that surrounds the tip of these. I also varnished the part of the wood that doesn't turn white. Aft seat and helmsman's seat. Well, nothing that keeps your eyes working. We work the mast, it is varnished, it is drilled to pass that piece that I don't know what nautical name it has, it is a crossbar that some lines cross from the hull to the tip of the mast. Information is appreciated We have already put the railings, there are no photos, sorry, but come on, the process is easy, it was left to dry for several days, then it was verified that the curve was perfect, it was cut to the correct length and the only more laborious thing was with a knife cut the strip in two parts to obtain two half circles that make a believable railing, it is glued with pva and without further ado. We have also made the base of the bowsprit and drilled through the hull at the point through it. Greetings. ..