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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/28/2022 in all areas

  1. Buen y feliz día para todos: Espero no ser el único que por una u otra razón, ya sea por falta de la botella adecuada, por un error en las medidas... o por cualquier otra razón, tiene barcos en el dique seco, literalmente acumulando polvo, No estoy hablando en sentido figurado. El actual buque escuela de la Armada Española, en el que se forman los futuros oficiales de nuestra Armada. Este fue mi segundo bote, les muestro como lo hice ya que tengo algunas fotos, pero quizás deba poner este tema en la sección de paso a paso... les cuento que cuando puse el Cutter mi idea no fue abrir un nuevo tema sino ponerlo en la seccion que esta en su mesa de trabajo, pero no soy muy diestro en esto de los foros asi que me equivoque, que el moderador o administrador si considera oportuno cambiarlo, ese ya es mi septimo bote si logro terminarlo y si lo voy a fotografiar casi paso a paso. Perdón por salirme del tema... Solo quiero compartir mis barcos y ver los tuyos en dique seco, si los hay... Las fotos no os van a enseñar nada, solo mi progreso a medida que añado nuevos barcos, este también es muy sencillo, solo tiene una dificultad para ordenar bien las cuerdas para que se pliegue, nada más. Esta es mi versión de la nave. Muy sencillo, pero era mi segundo barco y no tenía otra idea más que las que saqué del barco botellero japonés que motivó mi amor por estas obras. Entonces no sabía que se podía buscar planos de barcos en Internet. Así que amplié la foto al tamaño que quería para la botella. Esa fue mi principal herramienta de trabajo. Tallado y lijado del casco. Desbaste y lijado. Bastante tosco, me da vergüenza presentar algo así viendo tu trabajo pero voy poco a poco. Obviamente el trabajo claramente es mejorable, con masilla para madera corrigí muchos errores antes de pintarlo, pero no encuentro foto de ese proceso. Lo intento pero no me convence. Se pegan unos hilos alrededor del casco para imitar el original y se hacen los mástiles. Se perforan agujeros que están destinados a pasar a través de los ojos de buey... Gran error al hacer las perforaciones antes de pintar, tuvimos que abrirlas todas de nuevo. Plan A para encordar, se utiliza línea de prueba, se pinta para identificar las líneas con puntos de marcador y se comprueba si se pliega. Todo bien. Ahora a poner con cuidado para no perder las líneas finales. Y después de todo esto me doy cuenta de que para mantener las proporciones... la nave no puede desplegarse dentro de la nave... y así ha estado acumulando polvo años a la espera de una botella adecuada. No es un gran trabajo, pero es mi segundo barco hecho. No es mi segundo barco en una botella. Espero no ser el único que tenga barcos en dique seco. Saludos.
    4 points
  2. Here are some photos of the second James Miller model. It is housed in a 9" diameter clock that was made to look like a pocket watch case. The case is actually cast bronze, quite heavy.
    1 point
  3. Greetings Alan, Here are some photos of the design method for my insertion stick. They are of two different models, but same concept. The last photo shows the clamping head, made from a base that slides onto the main stick portion, with a divider to separate lines port/starboard plus bow, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd mast. The top of the slider portion has a rubber pad on top and a second wood piece also has the same on the bottom, cut from an old inner tube. Sometimes I use clothes pins to clamp the lines between, sometimes just a tightly tied and knotted string. The head can slide onto the stick, but has a small screw on the bottom to old it in place when tightening the lines. This construction allows the head to be used for many different models. The stick portion is made especially for each model, the head can slide onto any of them. The main features of the sticks is they are narrow enough to allow access to the lines along the outside of the bottom of the upper hull, plus cut out openings to allow access to the lines amidship, access is for applying glue to the tightened lines, and for cutting the lines. They also have holes to match the pegs on the underside of the upper hulls, to hold the hull in place. A line around the upper hull and stick keep the model attached to the stick, and is cut after the lines are tightened and glued. The sticks also have wire half hoops attached to the sides, to keep the lines separated and in positions that hold the tightened lines "just right" to allow good gluing access as well. The first photo shows the underside of the hull, with the openings for gluing easily apparent, the middle photo shows the same, though one has to look closely as I didn't rotate the model and stick for that photo. Hope that helps! Anchor's A Weigh! John
    1 point
  4. Greetings All, At last the first James Miller model is finished in the light bulb. I use a special built holding stick to insert and raise the masts on the models. This stick has a clamping method to hold tension on the lines when tightened, and is narrow enough that I can invert the model and glue all the lines beneath the upper hull. I did have one problem with this first model, when I started the two models I carved the first one, the light bulb model, out of basswood the second was carved out of solid maple. The problem is that with all the carving and length of time between start and finish, nearly two years, the upper hull of this first model warped so that the ends were lower than the center. During final trials I found the problem, and tried to fix it by sanding the bottom of the upper hull at the bow and stern. However, this could only be done slightly without damaging the upper hull, so there ended up being a slight gap between upper and lower hull, most evident in the center. The second model's maple hull did not warp. Thinking on it now, I should perhaps not have used a solid piece of basswood for the upper hull, but instead should have used two outer pieces of solid basswood, with a thin piece glued down the center, this just might have kept the hull from warping when carving away the top and bottom areas. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
    1 point
  5. Scratchbuilt from plans found in Around Cape Horn by Charles G. Davis. Bob
    1 point
  6. And finally, Jack took his place on the mast.
    1 point
  7. The first of the two James Miller models is finally completed. Still have to finish up the light bulb stand and the stand to hold the model on the bottom of the bulb. There is a second model, at present it is at the stage of ready to start mounting the masts. The second is a static display model, so in some ways it easier to rig.
    1 point
  8. So, I put a cork in the bottle's throat. Now this job is complete ..
    1 point
  9. Ship ahoy! She's in. ?
    1 point
  10. Onni

    HMS Gannet

    Having discarded my original bowsprit, made a new smaller version with thin metal spar and dolphin striker.As previously; made three cotton loops ready in the bowsprit to pull through the forestay,jib stay etc..glued the stays with ordinary wood glue and allowed to dry before cutting them off underneath with a small bit of razor blade cemented to a thin wire.Always a bit shaky doing that as one false move can cut one of the bobstays by mistake which would be a bit of a disaster,however everything went well and I am quite pleased with the finished item.I had already made a larger turks head so it was just a question of fitting it to the bottle neck. Last two pictures show a late Victorian gunboat/sloop 'HMS Gannet 'at anchor in the evening setting sun.......
    1 point
  11. And, finally, I moved the crew to the boat
    1 point
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