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Caleb

Galleon Ship - First SIB Plan and Build Notes

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Hi Caleb,

Your build is looking excellent! I want to encourage you to build it the way you want it and look at it as an art form. Just like an artist paints a picture you are building your 3D picture. Looking forward to more posts and please don’t worry if life gets in the way. It will be done when it’s done!

Remember you’re the Artist!

Jeff

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A hoy!

I have been working on the masts, yards and ratlines. I bought some fly tying silk and it is very fine. However it is not a single strand, but multiple ultrafine threads laid up together. They are not braided together, which means they easily fray and seperate. But I'm reasonably happy with the results I've got for the ratlines. Shroud lines are standard sowing thread. I set the shrouds up with the correct number of strands and angle, then overlaid the silk ratlines. With tape holding everything in place I dabbed super glue all over it, then absorbed/wiped up the excess glue.

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Following Onni's advice, I will fix the shroud lines to the mast now, and then glue the base of them to the hull sides later. I made each side of the shrouds on the same strands. This allows me to simply fold the shrouds in half and tie to the mast under the platforms.

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I've noticed a lot of folks drill holes in their masts and yards to pass rigging through, however it sometimes requires larger mast/yard diameters to allow a through hole. I've chosen to try and keep the mast diameters small, and taper my yards in an attempt to be scale. It means I can't drill through them, I've tried to no success with a no.75 drill. So I'll have to come up with another solution for running rigging between the yard tips, I think it will involve thread blocks.

I've experimented with yard braces. It works well I think. There is a small thread block tied to the mast and the yard braces passes through it. When the yard is pivoted to be parallel with the mast (for bottle entry) the line goes slack. When the yard is then pivoted to perpendicular the line goes back to tight. Convenient geometry of triangles and pivot points.

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My latest problem is how to make the rear cabins. I need to build them up because I haven't carved them out. For shaping the actual windows I can't cut timber panels accurately enough, nor does the grain of the wood allow it. So I have experimented with two methods of creating windows:

One is to stamp the shape. So I made a little metal punch to stamp the shape of the window onto a piece of wood that I can then glue to the sides and back. 

The second is to try and imprint the shape of the windows onto a piece of wood. I bent some tin to shape and sharpened its edges. A light tap imprints the profile.

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Neither of these methods produce amazing results but it's better than nothing. Does anyone have a way of reliably repeating the exact same cabin window shape?

My next major tasks are to work on the prow detail and stairs on the deck. 

Hope you're all staying safe.

Regards, Caleb.

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Sometimes when details get this small I print them out on paper and glue the paper to the model.  Maybe not the best photo but it gives the idea.  I printed the transom glued it on and touched it up with paint.  In your case I'd print the cabin windows, cut out the windows and glue the shaped pieces in then paint over them.  

Mercury_Construction_Rails_and_Red_Stern

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Try drilling any holes in the masts and yards before taking down to size. I also use a small dab of thinned varnish (acrylic is good and available in small bottles from hobby shops) or CA glue to strengthen the hole. Re-drill when dry, then size the mast. I use a home made drill guide (shown below). Its made from a bit of brass right angle, a small flat filed on top as shown and a number of holes for different bit sizes drilled in it. If you want to drill into the end of a dowel, a small countersink on the underside, and tapering the end helps.

Have fun and stay safe

Al

1173004074_Drillbitguide.jpg.9074a225e03d030231a6b74c9fefb2d1.jpg

Edited by exwafoo

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