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Bottled Ship Builder

James Miller 3 masted schooner


John Fox III

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9 hours ago, Bernard Kelly said:

Brilliant as always John. That is a really good looking ship and the bottle is just the one for this model. Fantastic detail and a very good way of inserting the ship. 

Thanks Bernard! The insertion method is one I've used often, in fact the special insertion tool is made specially so that it can be adjusted, within reasonable limits.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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21 hours ago, DSiemens said:

Great work!  She really came together nicely.  I really like the stand in the bottle look, especially with a ship this detailed.      

Thanks DS! It only took two years to finish, though I was building two of them so that counts. The second is nearly finished now, going into a 9" diameter clock that looks like a pocket watch, will post a shot when that one is done.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John

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Greetings Alan,

Here are some photos of the design method for my insertion stick. They are of two different models, but same concept. The last photo shows the clamping head, made from a base that slides onto the main stick portion, with a divider to separate lines port/starboard plus bow, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd mast. The top of the slider portion has a rubber pad on top and a second wood piece also has the same on the bottom, cut from an old inner tube. Sometimes I use clothes pins to clamp the lines between, sometimes just a tightly tied and knotted string. The head can slide onto the stick, but has a small screw on the bottom to old it in place when tightening the lines. This construction allows the head to be used for many different models. The stick portion is made especially for each model, the head can slide onto any of them. The main features of the sticks is they are narrow enough to allow access to the lines along the outside of the bottom of the upper hull, plus cut out openings to allow access to the lines amidship, access is for applying glue to the tightened lines, and for cutting the lines. They also have holes to match the pegs on the underside of the upper hulls, to hold the hull in place. A line around the upper hull and stick keep the model attached to the stick, and is cut after the lines are tightened and glued. The sticks also have wire half hoops attached to the sides, to keep the lines separated and in positions that hold the tightened lines "just right" to allow good gluing access as well. The first photo shows the underside of the hull, with the openings for gluing easily apparent, the middle photo shows the same, though one has to look closely as I didn't rotate the model and stick for that photo.

Hope that helps!

Anchor's A Weigh!

John

Endurance light bulb 320.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 158.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 164.jpg

Edited by John Fox III
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8 hours ago, exwafoo said:

Many thanks John. Much appreciated. I'll certainly think about having a go with this technique. Keeping the lines in order during launching and holding the SIB once inside have given me issues in the past. 

Best regards

Alan

Greetings Alan,

You are welcome! Meant to show more of the launching stick thing earlier, but forgot! <Ughhh> My main problem was always gluing the lines from above, too many things in the way, this idea was my solution to that, any other benefits were simply a plus.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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3 hours ago, MarylandBill said:

This is really, really amazing work... Even more amazing considering that the "bottle" will obscure some of that detail... and very discouraging for a guy like me who is still new to this...  Keep up the great work.

--

Bill

Greetings Bill,

Thanks for the kind words! The bottle in this case is a sodium vapor light bulb, which obscures very little of the detail of the model. Don't be discouraged, my first 3 ship in bottle models ended up in the trash can. Remember we ALL start at the same place, it takes time and practice and a desire to increase one's detail level and accuracy. It doesn't happen overnight! <Grin> I've been working on miniature model sailing ships for nearly 40 years, talk to me after you've been at it that long and we will see how you've progressed, if I am around that long! <Grin>

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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  • 2 weeks later...

John,

This is looking great.  In every photo and word that you post there is a tremendous amount of information.  I wished I could remember it all!  Sometimes it is like a huge feast where there is so much food but when you are stuffed you cannot absorb any more.  I look forward to your updates.

 

Gwyl

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23 hours ago, Gwyl Blaser said:

John,

This is looking great.  In every photo and word that you post there is a tremendous amount of information.  I wished I could remember it all!  Sometimes it is like a huge feast where there is so much food but when you are stuffed you cannot absorb any more.  I look forward to your updates.

 

Gwyl

Thanks Gwyl! I do attempt to share as much as I can, sometimes it is a lot to absorb it's true. I don't always remember it all either, that is the advantage of digital cameras and saved image files. Using those I can revisit past models to "recall" how I managed to build similar parts/models in the past.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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  • 2 weeks later...

Greetings DS,

Thanks! I bought that clock 10 years ago, but just never had the right model in mind to "fill it". I did enjoy not having to fold things down, plus I could use the lines I make with a miniature rope walk. Not possible to use those lines with a ship in bottle/bulb model as they do not slip through holes easily and my rope walk just isn't long enough to make them of sufficient length. I actually thought as you did after completing this clock model, thinking buying a porthole clock and doing something similar to this one.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

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