Jump to content
Bottled Ship Builder

James Miller 3 masted schooner


John Fox III

Recommended Posts

Greetings All,

Today I share the latest work on the James Miller models. I have completed adding the bobstays, jib boom shrouds and jib boom backstays to both models. The bobstays and shrouds are made from miniature rope, made on a mini rope walk I built a year or so ago, using 3 pieces of 8/0 fly tying thread. The backstays are fake miniature chain, made from 8/0 fly tying thread tied around a #80 drill bit with double overhand knots. To keep the "chain" fairly straight I tied a second piece of thread to the first loop tied, after removing the drill bit from the hole in an 9" long piece of wood, then passing this second thread through a rubber band tightly wrapped around the far end of the wood. Before each new double knot was added, the second line was pulled slightly, so that as the first knot was tied to the next knot it would pull the second line, keeping the knots tied opposite each other to keep the chain straight. As each double knot was tied, the bit was removed from the hole in the wood, and the whole thing repeated endlessly.

Second photo shows the completed forecastle area, with everything permanently in place. I also wanted to share that I found some really nice, super fine, fly tying thread. It is labeled and sold as 20 DEN line, and is finer than a human hair. I've used 8/0, 10/0 and 12/0 threads, but they are nearly identical in overall size, but this 20 DEN stuff is a lot smaller/thinner. According to the info at the J. Stockard fly tying company online this line is equivalent to 19/0 thread. It is quite a bit weaker than the other threads mentioned, but works great for wrapping.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

James Miller Light Bulb 079.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 093.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 095.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 096.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 097.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Greetings All,

I now have the fore mast added to the ship in light bulb model of James Miller. All the fore stays, shrouds and backstays have been added, as well as all the headsails and all their rigging. The two jib sails are static, They do not move with the stays they are attached to, they are attached by small open loops so that the stay can move through the sail, since the stays for those sails runs through the jib and martingale spike, then into the hull and is the operating end of these lines. The fore sail does move with the stays, as in this case they are double, one on each side of the bowsprit, running through the bees and back into the hull, these are also the operating ends of the stays.I learned a lesson with the foremast, in that I added all the running rigging before adding the shrouds and ratlines, which was a mistake as it made adding the shrouds much more difficult with all the running rigging lines being so light in color they kept getting accidentally  tied into the shrouds. The cabin and hatch are also permanently attached now.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

James Miller Light Bulb 100.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 105.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 109.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 110.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

The first of the two James Miller models is finally completed. Still have to finish up the light bulb stand and the stand to hold the model on the bottom of the bulb. There is a second model, at present it is at the stage of ready to start mounting the masts. The second is a static display model, so in some ways it easier to rig.

James Miller Light Bulb 130.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 140.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 143.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 149.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 154.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Greetings All,

At last the first James Miller model is finished in the light bulb. I use a special built holding stick to insert and raise the masts on the models. This stick has a clamping method to hold tension on the lines when tightened, and is narrow enough that I can invert the model and glue all the lines beneath the upper hull. I did have one problem with this first model, when I started the two models I carved the first one, the light bulb model, out of basswood the second was carved out of solid maple. The problem is that with all the carving and length of time between start and finish, nearly two years, the upper hull of this first model warped so that the ends were lower than the center. During final trials I found the problem, and tried to fix it by sanding the bottom of the upper hull at the bow and stern. However, this could only be done slightly without damaging the upper hull, so there ended up being a slight gap between upper and lower hull, most evident in the center. The second model's maple hull did not warp. Thinking on it now, I should perhaps not have used a solid piece of basswood for the upper hull, but instead should have used two outer pieces of solid basswood, with a thin piece glued down the center, this just might have kept the hull from warping when carving away the top and bottom areas.

Anchor's A Weigh!

John Fox III

James Miller Light Bulb 159.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 161.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 163.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 170.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 180.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 187.jpg

James Miller Light Bulb 193.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...