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DSiemens

How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

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To make sure I have the right spacing for the bowsprit and the windlass I'm putting the bowsprit in next.  I cut a notch in the front bulwarks to get the angle of the bowsprit according to the plans.  0616182219a.thumb.jpg.25239b76a1337a2ff1c0f2a6593f6d1d.jpg

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I glue the bowsprit in the notch and to the deck.  I'm not worried about the bowsprit being pulled up by the rigging because of the bobstay.  The bobstay runs from the bowsprit to the stem.  As the bowsprit is pulled up the bobstay pulls it back and creates a fulcrum.  As the end of the bowsprit is pulled up the end attached to the hull will be pushed down.    

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In order to attach a bobstay to a stem I gotta have a stem.  Starting out I round out a piece of wood to match the hull.  I cut the top to match the angle of the bowsprit then round out what will be the front of the stem.

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 Little more sanding to shape it and the stem is good to go.  I'm not doing the bobstay just yet but its something to keep in mind.  

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Next part is the windlass.  The windlass is used to haul anchors and other heavy things on and of the ship.  Breaking it down the simplest form is two triangles and a cylinder.  

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Glue those right on deck just behind the bowsprit.  Also another couple small pieces.  I put in a couple rectangular pieces one just behind the bowsprit and one on the bowsprit.  Looking at the photo of the other model it looks like theres a block on a stand just behind the bowsprit and a ships bell on the bowsprit.  I did a ships bell this small on the Scavenger but being a beginners build I thought a rectangle on the bowsprit would work.  I'll put a dot of gold paint where the bell goes.  

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From here I need to add cannons and then start on masts and rigging.  

 

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Time to put some cannons in.  Going back to the concept of putting together shapes a cannon consists of a cylinder sitting on a rectangle.  For the cylinder I opened up an old cell phone charger cable and pulled out the black wire.  For the rectangle I found a nice dark veneer and cut strips.  I still had to thin it a bit to fit the cannons in the gun ports. Good to be aware of sizing on this part.

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Here it is with all the carriages glued in. 

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If you can get a hold of or build this tool I highly recomend it.  It really helps keep my length cuts consistent.

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Here it is with cannons.

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One of the last parts the hull needs is the channelsnfor the rigging.  This is the piece chain plates and deadeys attach to on real ships.  For this I cut a piece of veneer, drilled four holes and glued it to the side of the hull where the backstays will attach.  This piece will be used for those back stays.  0624181408.thumb.jpg.816507bd0480091f535615c2c5ae3b00.jpg

Starting to get into masts and rigging.  More to come. :)

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For masts I use bamboo.  I like it for its durability and because its in expensive.  A package of bamboo scewers runs around $3 and holds enough for several ships.  

I cut my bamboo in section long ways and use a drawplate to get smaller round sections.  I then put these pieces in a drill to smooth them out and add a bit of taper.  Tapering masts and yards really adds to the realism and doesn't take to much extra time.  As a cautionary note, don't spin wood in dremels.  They spin way to fast and very often the wood gets off center and becomes a projectile. Drills are slower and safer.  

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Once I have the mast cut down and sanded I measure it up to the plans and cut it to size. The same process applies to the top mast except its cut down even smaller. 

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From here I cut a couple small blocks.  And glue then where the mast doublings are on the plans.  I then glue the top mast to these blocks.  This creates a small space between the masts which is cteated by the cross trees.  

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From here I cut out some strips of paper and stain them with wood stain.  The paper is glued on and wrapped around the mast creating the cross trees. This also helps hold the two pieces together. 

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For this ship I'll be using the hinge method.  It's a great place to start on ship in bottle building.  To make the hing drill a small hole in the base of the mast, insert a piece of wire and bend it down.  

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Drill a couple holes for either side of the hinge where the mast will be placed on deck.  Then trim the wire until it hits the bottom of the holes at about the point the bottom of the mast just touches the deck.  Glue the wire in place.

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Test the hinge to make sure it works well.

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This is a good opportunity to test how well the ship fits in the bottle.  The mast works fine but my channels are a bit to wide.  Gotta fix that.  

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One more note on masts.  I typically don't drill a lot of holes in masts.  The holes can easily cause the mast to break.  Thinner masts look more realistic but are more fragile. To keep them strong I will be using knots to put on the yards.  How ever for this build there is one more hole needed in the mast.  It goes where the boom connects to the mast and will help with rigging the boom.  

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