Alex Bellinger Posted April 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 Greetings Alex, Was that haze originally in the light bulb?? I ask because I had a real problem with hazing for the first few light bulb models I built. Whether or not it is/was the cause in my cases, it developed over time, getting worse and worse. I decided it might be due to outgassing from epoxy and cyano glues, possibly the mixture of both, and now use an aquarium pump to force air into any bulb model I build after completion, for 7 days, 24/7. I also no longer fully seal any bulb models, instead I use a piece of fine mesh brass screen sandwiched between two rubber washers that just fit into the opening of the metal left on the bulb. Since I've started doing this, not one bulb has developed any hazing, so I must be doing something right! <G> The boiling flask is great! I look around every once in a while, but anything I've seen used has deposits inside, making them useless for our purposes. I suppose I should just buck up and buy some new ones! <G> Both models look terrific by the way. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III Ladysmith, WI Thanks John. The haze was already there. I'd hoped it would clear up with cleaning. I hope the photo below shows it better. The model base and the disk supporting are not glued to the glass and are just a little loose. I was concerned about the wood and glass expanding and contracting at different rates with temperature changes. Although I have not taken the pains you have to insure there is healthy air exchange, I've felt confident there is some exchange in this model. I've always been apprehensive about out gassing from superglues and used them sparingly. This is the first I've heard epoxy can be a problem too. It has been my first choice when simple white glues won't do. Alex IgorSky and John Zuch 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chasseur Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 John, I looked into some industrial bulbs last year but was scared about them having a toxic gas inside. So I am wondering how do you get them apart safely? I agree wine bottles are not the greatest however I will use one on my current build. Maybe I'll try a light bulb on my next build so may I ask, where is the best place to get one on line or is that even possible? Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Fox III Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 Greetings Alex & Jeff, Thanks for "clearing" it up Alex! <G> Sorry, couldn't help myself this morning. I have no difinitive evidence of epoxy outgassing, just figured it could/would as well as the cyano glue. I would far rather use pv/white glue, but when using a lot of styrene and having to glue that to a hull, not much else works but cyano or epoxy. I used to finish gluing all my lines with cyano, and glue the hull parts together afterward with epoxy, but have started using thinned down white glue for both for a while now. I actually never thought of using a tiny bit of soap to get the thinned glue to wick better, I always thinned my white glue with rubbing alcohol. Not exactly an easy thing to do to mix those evenly! <G> Jeff, I am not aware of dangerous gasses, but suppose it is possible. I have opened at least a dozen sodium vapor bulbs, and haven't keeled over yet. My sources are varied, but for the larger 12" long x 6" diameter bulbs, I had a friend who worked for the company that exchanged street and stadium light bulbs, he sent me 2 dozen such bulbs for just the cost of the shipping. For the smaller bulbs, from 8" to 3" long/tall bulbs I take a look at the clearance section of our local Lowe's equivelant, Farm & Fleet to be exact. Just got two 4" tall sodium vapor bulbs for $1.88 each yesterday at F&F. They don't always have any, and in the smaller sizes one has to inspect them, as they are not always as totally clear as the larger bulbs. Normally these bulbs in smaller sizes run to $10-$15 each, and the larger sizes, usually sold in lighting stores as security light bulbs, they can run $25-$40. The majority of my bulb models though go into standard 3" globe light bulbs, usually used in bathroom accent lighting. Again, I always open the package if possible, otherwise scrutinize the package to make sure they are the clearest available. They are relatively inexpensive, and so far at least not being replaced with CFL or LED lights locally. I used to open bulbs similarly to what Alex seems to have done in the image above, namely cutting the glass of the bulb somewhere directly under the metal screw end, after removing it if possible, or cutting straight through it and the glass and replacing the metal from a broken bulb. I have switched now to very carefully cutting the metal end, just where the threads start at the end of the sharp taper to the end. I cut just metal, then the wire leading to the cut off end. I then very carefully cut down into the glass right where it doubles back on itself. This is usually a bit below the cut metal rim of the screw end. I cut very slowly, with a dremel and cutoff wheel, and move my cuts slowly around the perimeter of that circle of glass where the outer bulb turns in on itself to form the stem inside. I make shallow cuts, and keep repeating until the stem part falls into the bulb. I then remove that part, usually just pinch it with the tip of a needles nose pliers, to break it into smaller pieces. I then use a fine grinding wheel in the dremel, and very carefully and slowly round out and expand the opening in JUST THE GLASS. I attempt to not touch or damage the brownish, hardened glue holding the glass to the metal. Take a bit of practice, probably break a few in learning, but they are inexpensive. I was sort of surprised at how robustly you can grind the glass and cause no damage. The biggest thing is that as long as the hardened glue stuff is not damaged, the metal end will stay put as though you did nothing to the bulb at all. I usually finish the bulb, after the model is finished, but sandwiching a fine mesh brass screen between two rubber washers that just fit into the end of the metal screw part, but not into the bulb itself. This allows a bit of air breathing, and keeps things like moisture coming out of whatever air was trapped inside if sealed from coming out during rapid temperature changes. The larger security/street lamp bulbs are bit more difficult. I usually remove the metal cap entlrely from them, carefully of course. The take 1" wide fiberglass tape/strip and saturate it with epoxy glue, then wrap it around the bulb at the point I wish to cut it, usually wrapping twice. Once that is fully cured, I mark a line around the bulb in the middle of the tape, rolling the bulb in a stand works great for this. Then cut with the dremel and cut off wheel, working slowly, making a shallow cut along the line, then keep repeating until the glass breaks. This is the only way I know to cut them and have a clean opening, with absolutely no cracks. I found out the hard way, even the tiniest almost invisible crack will expand later, so using the fiberglass tape and epoxy keeps those tiny cracks from happening. Hope that helps! I am not sure if I have any photos of this proces or not, will have to check and post some if I do. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox IIILadysmith, WI John Zuch and Gwyl Blaser 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Fox III Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 Greetings, Found a few photos of opened bulbs, and taping larger bulbs. I mis remembered a bit, did not remove the metal cap on the larger bulbs like I thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Fox III Posted April 15, 2015 Report Share Posted April 15, 2015 Greetings, Forgot to add the photos at first, added them as an edited post, but the text that I typed for each photo did not go through. So, here is the text: This one shows a 3" globe bulb after opening the end. As you can see, there is some slight damage to the edge of the remains of the metal cap, but I attempt to leave as much of it undamaged as possible. In this bulb the hard glue is a brown color, sometimes like the following photo, it is a sort of bluish green in color. The openins are usually not completely round, but I usually take a circle template and measure the largest full round dimension as my working opening. Usually this leaves just a bit of wiggle room. This one shows one of my earlier Bounty models being inserted through an opened globe bulb. This bulb had the blueish green colored hard glue stuff. Here is one of the larger street light bulbs, with the epoxy saturated fiberglass tape wrapped around. Believe this migh have been 2" wide tape, just don't remember for sure. This one shows the same bulb after cutting off the end. After cutting through, I sand down the edge of the glass and wrapping, to make them smooth. These last two show how I close off the bulb in the previous two photos. I make a wooden ring to fit loosely over the opened bulb end, then line it with a thick strip of felt, glued to the inside surface of the wood. I usually add a name/date tage to the center. The outside of the cap is an etched brass plate, attached to the wooden ring with small brass nails. The cap fits tightly enough not to fall off, but can breath a little through the felt and the cap can be removed easily. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III Ladysmith, WI IgorSky, Bernard Kelly, John Zuch and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tubjugger Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 There's a company called Cole/Palmer on the web that carries Kimble Solution Bottles in various sizes, a six pack of 1000 ml bottles costs $112.00. TJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chasseur Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 John, Perfect how to do! Your tutorial explains everything in great detail. Now I feel confident to give it a go if I acquire the right light bulb. Thanks again my friend ... Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Fox III Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Greetings Jeff, You are more than welcome! Glad you found the into helpful. Hope you find the right bulb. As a last resort, as I noted I have a stock of the 12" x 6" bulbs, could be for the shipping cost I could send you one. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III Ladysmith, WI Gwyl Blaser and Chasseur 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chasseur Posted May 14, 2015 Report Share Posted May 14, 2015 I just might take you up on that offer. There is a guy at work that changes these bulbs out however they have a white coating on the inside. I will see if he has access to the clear ones once they have burned out. If not, I'll get back to you John and thanks for the gracious offer. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chasseur Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 Hi John, The guy at work came through for me big time. I now have a nice selection of bulbs in various sizes to keep out of trouble indefinitely. May you and yours have a blessed Christmas and a Happy New Year to the Fox family ... Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSiemens Posted December 22, 2015 Report Share Posted December 22, 2015 A lot of great info on this thread. Reading it over again I had a thought as far as the gasing. I do know from experience that super glue causes a white film inside the bottle. A few of the first ones I made had this problem as I would seal them up as soon as I was done. It's real tough if not impossible to clean out. I have found though if you leave the bottle open with the open side up the gases escape and don't cause the white film. I now leave the bottles open for a good ten minutes before I seal them. I haven't had that problem since. Chasseur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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