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Bottled Ship Builder
DavidB773

My first SIB: Dimond

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David, thanks very much for that - that's really a helpful explanation.  Makes a lot of sense, thank you!

Thanks for the suggestion on my model.  That could work as well.  I haven't made the channels yet, but at the scale I'm working, I'm a bit worried that they might be too thin to peg.  I'll have to check it out and think a little more on it, but that could certainly work.

Sorry to distract things on your log.  Looking forward to your final posts!

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I appreciate the conversation, Mike. Look at the photo from 4.1.17 of single line channel to see how small (or big!) a peg can be.

Following are photos of a line I'm replacing because I can't get the kink out of it. It was a tight loop that was in the mast for quite a while then pulled through. Moistening it had no effect. We see the line, then one end cut followed by a glued extension to it to prep for the last cut. (Could have glued first before the first cut.)

line1.jpg.63b345b096a4e7d75abdfa5aa36df173.jpg

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This will carry the new line to the masts. This new line is CA coated thread.

line6.jpg.30c9c9d45f59726065bfc4194259ba80.jpg

Trial run. More later.

line7.jpg.562047c1b2042191b0d742eaf0c7034d.jpg

 

 

 

 

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If that doesn't work I have a method that will.  Go to the hardware store and get a two or three inch paint brush.  Glue a few bristles together to get the thickness and paint it black.  Using the same tool you already have you can glue it right in place.  The bristles won't sag like thread does.  If you haven't already look at the end of my Scavenger build log.  I used the same technique there.  

One other thing you could try if you want to use thread is pull a length of thread tight and apply some super glue then let it dry.  Sometimes super glue leaves white bits so paint if needed but it will make the line stiff so it won't sag.  

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As a followup, the above line was replaced. I've been working aft to stern making adjustments and cleaning the inside of the bottle. All of the threading with the bowsprit is done outside of the bottle and it's ready to go in. In the bottle, my initial threading plan for the bowsprit called for single line threading. It would have been complicated (but not impossible) to coax thread through the holes and would have involved delicate trimming. However, after putting the bowsprit in the support, I pictured a different scenario that will be much easier to accomplish. I broke the threads up in sections and now the trimming points will be easier to access.

Start of the threading:bowsprit1.thumb.jpg.7aa6db2a20dafee6b0f13237fbbde5dc.jpg

bowsprit2.thumb.jpg.6d420a6e03ed1e8779aec7d960a267c0.jpg

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Overall view.

bowprit3.thumb.jpg.2dd54df3ef4cb1d832c36843be5cb910.jpg

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In my case, bad things happen at any pace! ;)

One thing I'm facing is being able to create enough tension on the bowsprit forestays to move the foremast slightly forward for the purpose of tightening the foremast yard braces. The foremast would need to move only 1 or  2 mm for that. This is where the bobstays will do their part.

Here, the control lines are being separated for the big cut. After this was done, the bowsprit was kept as shown while I was fitting the sea. That involved a lot of insertion and removal of the pair of sea halves and it was a lot quicker this way.

1776003407_cutlines1.thumb.jpg.ca9e71110d426fadaef376123587ba30.jpg

All done.

1580673454_cutlines2.thumb.jpg.b5c0eef7e32480ec0d1d93dd99310f06.jpg

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Thank you, Arup!

Thank you, Mr. S., taking a look at what I'm doing here. I'm quite honored to read your opinion of what I've accomplished.

I have a cork for the bottle but it needs to be sized to fit. However, I'm not going to let that get in the way of posting this!

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ship11.thumb.jpg.20e48ea6cd3ab0faeb35e600f9b4a262.jpgship12.thumb.jpg.ff20eace5051bb69539c0802ee5708d5.jpg

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I appreciate that, Arup!

The bottle is not glued to the stand. Those square pads are a cured adhesive (E6000) cut to shape then glued to the stand. They grip the glass to keep it secure. 

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