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Bottled Ship Builder

Iron-hulled wool clipper


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I have made a bit more progress now with the stepping of the three masts, and fitting the lower shrouds and ratlines on all three masts.    The main topmast staysail and the spanker have been set and rigged.      I have also veneered the dispaly case.    The imgae is a bit fuzzy because the light has started to go.

Bob

 

43 (Medium).JPG

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I have done quite a lot of work on it.   I have made and fitted the lower mast, topmast and t'gallant mast shrouds and ratlines on all three masts.   These were all made from fine copper wire, soldered together.   This resulted in approximately 1,220 soldered joints, the whole process taking about four hours, spread over two days.   I am now free to continue fitting and rigging the fore-and-aft sails and the standing rigging.    I am very glad that this process is now behind me, as it was quite a tedious job!

Bob

 

45 (Medium).JPG

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I have now done a bit more on the ship and the standing rigging on the main and mizzen masts is now complete and the spreaders on those two masts trimmed down to size.    I am currently setting and rigging the jibs and staysails.  I have made and painted the lower yards, lower and upper topsail yards.

Bob

46 (Medium).JPG

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Thank you.     The spreaders are just metal or wooden bars projecting aft of the topmast head to support the backstays.     I always make them a lot longer than they should be when I make the masts, and trim them down to size after the backstays are fitted.    They are trimmed on the main and mizzen, but still far too long on the foremast on the above image as they backstays, were not yet fitted at that time.     Since taking the above, I have fitted the foremast backstays and trimmed the spreaders.    I now have only three jibs to set and rig, and then I can start setting and rigging the square sails.     I am totally incapable of putting a ship in a bottle!:(   I simply could not cope with making everything fold down and up again, and I like to get as much rigging and detail on as I can!      I don't have the patience for that sort of thing!

Bob

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Thanks,

I have now completed setting and rigging all the fore-and-aft sails.     I began the model on the 11th of June last, but have only worked on it for a total of 29 days.     That comes to a total of 50 hours, and includes making the display case and sea base.      After completing the t'gallant, royal and skysail yards, I will commence setting and rigging the 16 square sails.    More images shortly.

Bob 

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Lovely work again Bob. I've been watching your posts with interest as I was given a 1/300 Cruzier Class Brig Kit from Langton Miniatures a few years ago. It has a resin hull, white metal masts and photo etched brass sails, shrouds/ratlines and fittings. The sails are fine, but the shrouds and ratlines are a bit clunky. I've been putting off building it until I could work out the rest of the rigging and other things (very sparse instructions and details). I got hold of a copy of 'Modelling the Irene' by EW Petrejus. The Irene was originally HMS 'Grasshopper', a Cruzier Class brig-of-war British built in 1806 and taken by the Dutch in 1811. The book has over 500 line drawings so I've got all the detail I need. I've drawn inspiration from your work and am gong to attempt to rig it using your wire method, replacing the clunky PE rigging. It will be a few months before I get started but I'll do a log.

Regards

Alan

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Rigging with wire at 1:300 is extremely easy, as long as it is not going in a bottle.    If you just try stretching a piece of fine wire slightly  with two small pairs of pliers, you will see how easy it is.   Then it is just a matter of cutting it to length, picking it up with tweezers, dipping each end in glue and placing it in position on the model.      But 9 out of 10 will just say that they couldn't do it without even trying.   

I suppose you could say the same to me when you hear me saying I can't put them in bottles.     No doubt I could if I had the patience, but I don't.     I could not psyche myself up to try putting one in a bottle when it is so much easier to put them in a small case!:huh:   

This morning, I completed making & painting the yards for the wool clipper.

Bob

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Bob,

Beautiful, neat and clean workmanship!  Thanks for sharing.

Looking at the finished model I was struck by the railings round the poop and forecastle, and how neat and regular they are.  Could you tell us how you do these, please? 

andrew

 

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Thanks for replies.   To make the rails, I wind 38 swg tinned copper wire round a small wooden frame that has threaded rod glued round the endges to get the correct spacing.    The wire terminates on the most convenient of the four old radio termnals round the ede.   Paint it wit liquid soldering flux and lightly run a soldering iron loaded with a bit of solder  across the overlaps.   Cut from the frame and spray with white matt automobile primer.

Bob

Rail frame (Medium).JPG

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