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Bottled Ship Builder

DSiemens

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Everything posted by DSiemens

  1. Great set of plans. This will be a fun build.
  2. Great work! She really came together nicely. I really like the stand in the bottle look, especially with a ship this detailed.
  3. That lopms great in that bottle. I live the way it frames the ship.
  4. I have that model that a friend asked me to build for him. I aught to start it and we can compare notes. I've been critical of it because I've seen more than a few accomplished builders that decided SIB building was to hard based on the kit. It would be good to dig in and see how it really is.
  5. DSiemens

    Bottle find

    That's going to look awesome.
  6. It was something like every two or three millimeters. I wasn't worried about scale, just that it looked good.
  7. Once the lines are tightened and glued off position the ship in the clay and glue it down. Then put finishing touches on the clay and the bottle. Build a stand. A block with a groove is an easy version. And that's it. Let me know if you have questions. These methods can be used in building bigger more complex ships. Theres also a ton of other methods. Find what works for you amd have fun.
  8. When I left off with this I needed to do the sea. I use plastaline or plastacine. Seems like theres a million spellings. Probably different chemical make up but essentially the same stuff. Its a putty that doesnt dry. It always stays plyable but its stiff enough to stay put in the bottle. I have some bottles going on six years old that have plastaline and they look as good as they did the day I made them. So despite never setting the stuff works. I put in a minimal amount of sea. Its surprising how little you can get away with. This means the ship can be taller and bigger in the bottle because the sea doesn't take as much room. Theres give and take to the amount of sea used. It comes down to preference amd what will fit in the bottle. I roll my clay out to about 3 to 4 cm thick. Then I hold it up to the bottle amd cut it to size. With thin sea the trick is keep width narrow. If the width is to wide the sea goes up the sides of the bottle and obstrects the view of the ship. I laid the sea on the bottle and cut it to size. The top and bottom will brew trimmed and the width will be narrowed from here. Then I hold the ship up to the bottle and the clay to determine where the ship will be in the bottle in proportion to the clay. From there cut the clay out where the ship will be. I cut the width down a little more and then put the sea in the bottle. Then I press it down with a piece of wire. The hole for the ship will need to be adjusted a bit. Go wide on this. Its easy to add clay its harder to widen it on the next step. Also something important to remember is to set the clay over the seam of the bottle. You don't want the seam in front of the view of the ship. The next step is to set the clay. This is done with a little heat. I hold the bottle over a hot burner for 30 seconds to a minute. Just enough so the clay next to the glass liquefies but not more than that. Here's a before. During And after With the hole in the sea the ship can be glued down to the glass. That step comes with personal ptefference. Some prefer to glue the ship down first then set the lines. Personally I glue and cut the lines then glue the ship down. After the clay is cooled waves and wakes can be formed and white clay can be added to give the sea a realistic look. I went with a smoother sea. From here the ship is ready to go in. Loosen the lines and fold the masts down and wrap the main sail around the ship. This is how it will look going in. You can glue the ship down or hold it with a piece of wire. Holding it can be a little harder but the advantage is if something goes wrong the lines can be cut and the ship pulled out. With it glued down you may have to break the bottle to get the ship out. The real trick is to make sure nothong goes wrong. I pull all the lines tight first then start gluing them down. That way I avoid snags and unforseen problems. Once every thing is in place I lossen the line slightly put a tiny bit of glue on the line and pull it through the hole or thread block. If you use CA make sure to use tiny amounts and turn the bottle up to let the fumes out. That way the bottle doesn't fog up. I use a flat end razor blade on a wire to cut the lines. Be very careful what the blade touches. Its very easy to cut a tight line.
  9. I like the idea of keeping them closed until your ready for them to open. Its one less thing to worry about in the bottle.
  10. I haven't seen Bob on the forum in quiet a while but the book he notes the plans came from is on Amazon. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Around-Cape-Horn-Charles-Davis/dp/0892726466&ved=2ahUKEwjpo_-jyLziAhVMnKwKHR5XDhwQFjAAegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw1oApJSlXfTvReoQhVDptNb&cshid=1558989461919
  11. DSiemens

    HMS Terror

    Great work. It really turned out nice.
  12. I knew a builder once that built ships first and found bottles after. It was kind of funny but it worked for him and his sibs were really nice. Great work on this one.
  13. I ran into that with this model. I used the next channel in. If that doesnt work drill through the side of the hull to the bottom of the hull and run the lines underneath.
  14. If it is from 1915ish its probably worth $250. I purchased a similar one for that price a couple years ago. Unfortunately they don't go up in value a whole lot. There's not a big market for old ships in bottles. If its later it'll be maybe $200 to $150.
  15. The style is early 1900's. Probably around 1915 to 1920. Can you semd more photos of the bottle. Particularly the head of the bottle, the bottom of the bottle and a close up on the sides. Finding the time frame the bottle was made gives clues of the age of the ship in bottle. The ship is an American clipper ship. Hard to tell which one. Is there any details of the deck, or any names or symbols on the ship? Who ever did it knew ships very well. The rigging is very correct and the mast and spar proportions are really good especially for this style. I'm curious about the town in the back ground, sometimes ship in bottle builders depicted an actual place. Its hard to say with generic buildings but the building in the middle and the mountain has me curious. Any one have any ideas?
  16. DSiemens

    HMS Terror

    Its always so crazy to see a ship in so many pieces and so fun to see it all come together.
  17. DSiemens

    HMS Terror

    The Ship is coming together nicely. Great work.
  18. The whole thing is glass. Its a glass blown ship in bottle. I'm not sure how it all came together. The bottom of the ship is fused into the bottle it self. The sails are all glass. It looked like the glass is fused together when its still hot. The bottom sail was fused to the sail above it. To much bumping around broke the two apart leaving a loose sail. I was able to get it back in place and glue it where it was fused originally.
  19. Well I had my first opportunity at ship in bottle repair. It was entirely different than I expected I'd do with a ship in bottle repair but I got it back together. I should have got a picture before I got it back together but when the gentlemen brought it over the mizzen main sail was floating around the bottle totally detached. I had to maneuver it in place and glue it down. Took two hours but I did it. Funny thing with glass ships. There no wiggle room.
  20. That looks great. Your doing an awesome job. I like that your not afraid to go small with your bulwarks, rails, masts and yard arms. Gives the ship a more realistic look. I sometimes think you can tell a good ship in bottle because you could imagine yourself walking around on deck. I can do that with your model. I've never been on a real sailing ship either. Biggest I've been on is a day sailing dinghy which isn't much. It is kind of funny being from a land locked state in the US that I'd be so into sailing ships. There's just a sense of adventure to them that I like. The more you get into this hobby the more you learn. I happen to be in a ship modeling club as well with people that build the big static models. 1:50 scale or bigger sort of models. There is a tendency to get particular about historical details and scale in that group and I fall into that sometimes and build in that way but, my way is not THE way, it's just one way. There is room for all types of building in the art though so I think people should be as technical or not technical as they like. Ultimately it's about having fun. A great example is an Etsy shop I came across from a builder in Ukraine. Brenner is the name he has on Etsy and he has some of the most beautiful ships in bottles I have ever seen. They are artistically amazing. They are not at all scale, or historically accurate and don't have a lot of detail. None of that matters, they are beautiful. Here's a link. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Wardroom?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=696912513 Anyway that was a big tangent just to say build how you want, at your own pace, and have fun.
  21. The forum is very slow but not dead. There are a ton of different ratline methods. I've seen people use lace, or even photo etching. There's good and bad to all methods. I agree that lace or screening doesn't look the best and metal being hard is harder to get into the bottle. I haven't tried all the methods but I can tell you what works well for me. There's two parts ratlines and it maybe obvious but I'll point them out just so every one understands my terminology. The lines connecting the mast to the ship and run more or less vertically are called shrouds. The lines that work as ladders and run horizontally are called ratlines. Since I usually use the folding method the tightness of the shrouds is important for setting the rake or angle of the mast. So while some builders make their shrouds and ratlines separate and add them on to the ship after the two parts are combined, I put the shrouds on first then add the ratlines. I like to make my shrouds with a single line weaving back and forth from the ship to the mast. This makes tightening easy since I pull the line and move the mast back and forth to tighten the shrouds. Once the shrouds are tightened I tie down and glue down the last line. Then I move on to the ratlines. With the mast pulled forward and shrouds tight I glue on the ratlines. This can be done one by one or you can use a frame. Place the frame between the mast on the shrouds and glue the ratlines to the shrouds. I've used superglue and white glue. Both work fine. I will say superglue dries stiff so try not to use to much. Also if you get to much on the line it may leave a white blob. These can be painted over if needed. If you use white glue try using the frame to keep the lines in place while the glue dries. That tends to work well. Test the lines once the glue is dry to make sure they are secure. Then cut off the excess with follicle clippers. I describe this method in more detail in my Bermuda sloop build log and there is more pictures.
  22. Yeah. I'll move the ship all over the bottle in this process. Gravity helps too. Some times I turn the bottle upright and let the ship hang off of its lines. Once all the lines are glued down and cut off then I maneuver the ship to the sea base. Helps to have a piece of plastic wrap over the sea so you don't get putty on the yards or mast in the process.
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