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Bottled Ship Builder


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Everything posted by DSiemens

  1. DSiemens

    La nina, caravel.

    That looks great. I love these little syrup bottles. I've used a few myself.
  2. DSiemens

    Hello Puebla Mexico

    Welcome. Very good work on the Hannah. She looks great.
  3. DSiemens

    HMS Wivern by Chausseur

    Happy ship in bottle day every one!
  4. Its a charming little sub, with a great story and has lasted the test of time. Thank you for sharing it.
  5. The only kits I know of from the 1950s were built by a company called ship yard and it had a plastic bottle that came in two pieces and had yo be glued together with the ship in the middle. Unless there are other kits I don't know, which is likely, I don't think this is a kit. I don't know that I can add much more to the bottle information than you have already contributed. The rounded markings on the base suggest an Owens machine made bottle to me. At earliest it would be 1910 but Owens machines were used into the 1980's which means it could be any where in between. I found an article stating a lot of glass makers in Baltimore used an anchor mark in different variations so its possible it could be from there. It is hard to say. As far as the ship goes the rigging looks accurate as in proper placement of back stays and lifts. Who ever built it knew ships or at the very least had good sources. It is built in an early style in that it doesn't have sails and it depicts a scene. That is typical of sibs I've seen from the 1915ish to the 1920's. Could be its built by an old salt or some one learning from one. It is a rough build. I suspect it could have been one of the builders first models. Might be why it got left behind in the house. Maybe they thought it wasn't as good as later builds but didn't have the heart to throw it away so leave it as treasure. It really is hard to say. Its a fun little ship in bottle though and the story behind it is interesting. Thank you for sharing it.
  6. DSiemens

    Hi from Bristol UK

    Welcome! Ask it's anything. We're happy to help.
  7. DSiemens

    Jeff bs build #3.

    Great work!
  8. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    Oh yeah I was going to explain those. I've experiment with various ways of doing dead eyes and I thought I'd add one method into this beginners build. This is purely optional and their are other more advanced methods that work well but if your just starting out this method works pretty well. What I did was get some paint on the end of a toothpick and just tap the back stay where the dead eyes go. Let the paint dry and do this over and over until the paint builds up into a little dot and looks like a very tiny dead eye. It will take five or sick coats so be patient with it, of coarse thats the name of the game with this hobby.
  9. I have been thinking about doing this project for a while. There has been a few beginners that have signed on to the site so I thought maybe now is as good a time as any. What I want this build log to be is a step by step instruction in how to build a simple first ship in bottle. This isn't to say don't comment or ask questions. Please ask lots of questions or give input. I want others to learn a lot from this log. Part of the purpose for creating this log is the lack of good kits out there. There are some kits that create beautiful models but they are difficult for beginners. Theres others that are good to learn on but they make ships that look childish. I wanted to make something in the middle. Simple for beginners but not childish. For this project I chose the Burmuda Sloop. It is simple in that it has one mast but as far as ships go this one has great lines and makes for a beautiful ship. To start we need plans. Googling bermuda sloop plans will give a lot of information. Another great resource is the maritime meuseum in Greenwich which has a lot of original plans. These plans for a sloop came from http://prints.rmg.co.uk/art/494822/unnamed-58ft-bermudan-sloop-no-date I also found some rigging plans that can be used. This site also has an extensive history on the bermuda sloop. http://herossea.blogspot.com/2014/02/?m=1
  10. DSiemens

    Jeff bs build #3.

    Great work!
  11. DSiemens

    Jeff bs build #3.

    That's no fun. Sometimes all we can do is chalk it up to good practice and start again. :/
  12. DSiemens

    Newly hooked

    Welcome. Those builds look great. I look forward to seeing more of your work.
  13. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    An example of the frame method.
  14. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    When it comes to trimming lines there is a special tool I use that makes for a really close cut. Follicle clippers from the grocery store. They run around $8. Note how straight the edge is and that it cuts off to the side. I can place that edge right on the shroud and cut the ratline super close with out cutting the shroud line. To show this look at how close the ratlines are cut at the edges of the shrouds. Something to note with these clippers. Treat the like your mothers sewing scissors. Once you use them for anything but thread the edges get bent and they will not cut thread cleanly. I have an old pair I use for wire and a new pair I use for thread. When I buy a new pair I mark my thread ones as my wire ones and throw out the oldest pair. I use these for cutting all of my lines specifically because I can control exactly where I make my cuts.
  15. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    Thanks Jeff. I'm very happy to see a few of you following a long. Let me know if you need better explanations of any part. Onward With standing rigging. Create two more thread blocks to tie to the bow. Per the plans they should be right before the back of where the back of the jib boom attaches to the bowsprit and the very tip of the jib boom. On the last forestay I left a loop because the line goes around the cross tree. For the next to I tie them directly to the top mast so there is no loop. Tie long threads onto the top mast and run them through the thread blocks. These lines need to be long enough to run out of the bottle. I'm not sure I talked about the rat lines. My method for this is simple. Pull the lines so the shrouds are nice and tight. Cut a small piece of thread. For this I used 8/0 fly tying thread. Its slightly smaller than the thread for the standing rigging. Holding the 8/0 thread on either side and get some glue on the middle of the thread. Use a dowel or the glue bottle to spread this a little and wipe off the excess being careful to avoid the edges where your fingers are. Then place the line one the shrouds and hold until dry. Once all the lines are on cut off the excess. For this method a fast drying glue is required. There's good and bad to that. Super glue dries hard and can break. I try to use as little as is necessary to get the job done. That's a fine are to learn. There is another method if you want to avoid using super glue. Make a frame out of thin wood. Matches or toothpicks work well. Glue the ratlines onto the frame so that they are evenly spaced a part. Place the frame over the shrouds and glue the ratlines to the shrouds. Since the frame is holding the lines in place you can leave the lines to dry. Then cut the lines outside the shrouds to remove the frame and trim the excess.
  16. DSiemens

    Lego Ship in Bottle

    I got an interesting Christmas gift I thought I'd share. This little project popped up in the Facebook group a year or so ago. The original creator was looking for signatures on the Lego Ideas page to promote Lego making a ship in bottle set. With the help of our Facebook group and a lot of other fans the project got it's 10,000 signatures and now Lego sells a ship in bottle set. This a great tribute to Jake Sadovich who created the original and gathered the signatures but, its a great tribute to ship in bottle building itself. There's at least 10,000 people out there that appreciate our craft enough to sign a Lego project into existence. I think that's incredible. My wife bought me the set and I built it in just a couple hours. It's a fun build and the instructions ate very straight forward. Here's the box and what comes in it. There's the booklet and four packages of Legos. I won't go into all the detail of building. The booklet is a great set of instructions. How ever I have a few photos of the process. Here's the ship. It is simple but looks good. I like the dragons on the sails. There's a few parts on Jake Sadovichs original build I would have liked to have seen. For instance a spanker or lateen sale on the mizzen mast. There's space for it but no parts. The masts could be taller to be proportional and the were on Jakes original build but it's not that big of a deal. I do think the ship looks good and was an easy build. Have to admit building the bottle itself was intense. There's a lot of little clear pieces. I felt like I was piecing a shattered bottle back together. It takes time but looks really good when its done. I find the stand very impressive. I love the compass and the globes. I've always made stands that don't detract from the build which keeps them simple. This stand doesn't detract but the added elements add to the build. The whole thing looks classy. Even as a Lego build where the magic of putting the ship in the bottle is obvious it still has a wow factor. The other part that makes me think is the sea itself. The pieces are just poured in and sit loosely on the bottom. It's actually a clever idea and I can see trying something similar with beads or other small material. So there it is the Lego Ship in Bottle. A fun fast build with some class.
  17. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    For the rest of the bowsprit whittle out a really thin piece of bamboo cut it to size from the plans and then taper the end. With a pencil mark where the end of where the two bowsprit pieces overlap. Then glue them together. I got some 8/0 fly tying thread and tied a knot around one end of where the bowsprit pieces connect. Then I wrapped that thread around glued it down tied it off glued the knot and cut off the ends. It will look like this. Then I did the same on the other end. Now its ready for the bobstay. The bobstay strengthens the bowsprit even at this scale. I've had ships where I put on the forestay before the bobstay and the whole bowsprit bent upwards and almost broke. The bobstay keeps the bowsprit straight when the forestays are pulling on it. First drill a hole in the keel. The plans shows where this stay will connect. Then tie a knot on the bowsprit and run the line through the keel. Glue the knot down and put a dab of glue on the line your about to pull through the keel then pull it through. Once that sets tie it off glue the knots and cut off the excess. Now its time for some forestays. First tie a thread block. See the video above. The hole of the block should be wide enough for your thread. I used wire instead of a needle for this one. Tie the thread block to the bowsprit. So that I don't run into forestays as I complete them, I'm starting with the inner most one. Tie the thread block on with the block facing upwards. Tie it and glue it as usual. Now for a little more added realism I tied a slip knot around the mast just above the lower cheek. I tightened the knot until it looked right leaving it slightly loose. I glued the knot down and put a dab of glue where the line connects with the back of the mast. Cut off the excess and then thread the other end of the line through the thread block. Note this line should be long as it runs out of the bottle.
  18. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    First one more set of back stays. Following the plans I drilled a hole in the bulwark. I then tied a line to the top mast about mid way down. I gave it a little glue so it doesn't move then ran the lines through the holes on the bulwarks. I then tied my temporary forestay on and set the rake angle. These back most back stays are the most important in setting the rake so the must be perfect. Once the rake is set I secured my temporary forests on the bowsprit with a tiny amount of glue. Enough its easy to pull off but also enough to hold the rake while I adjust my back stays. From there I pulled one backstay tight and tested the rake and strength of the forestay. Once all was secure I pulled the line out just a little, then put a little glue on the end going into the hole and pulled it back tight. Once the glue set I did the same on the other side. The glue holds the line in place while I tie a knot around the bulwarks. Once the know is secured I glue them down and cut off the ends. Once done in can take off the temporary line and prep the bowsprit for the fore stays.
  19. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    For some of the next parts I'm going to use what called a thread block. John Fox III has created an excellent video demonstrating how this works. This thread block is part of how I get away with thinner, somewhat closer to scale masts and yards. The smaller the dowels get the harder it is to drill holes and the holes compromise the integrity of the mast and yards. Tying thread blocks creates places for lines to pass with out compromising the strength of the mast and yards.
  20. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    To give a better idea on this style of rigging, the following link is where I first discovered it. Jim Goodwin shared it a long with a lot of other tricks on the PBS show the Woodwrights Shop. https://www.pbs.org/video/woodwrights-shop-ship-bottle/ Honestly the ship he demonstrates in this show maybe a better beginners model than this Bermuda Sloop.
  21. DSiemens

    Our first Bottled Shipwright Journal

    Really excellent work on the journal. It felt like reading the old magazine. You had some really great quality content. I'm looking forward to the next one. I'll have to see if I can't get an article together to contribute.
  22. DSiemens

    La nina, caravel.

    Thats looking great. I love the barrels.
  23. DSiemens

    Working out scale.

    I think you have it right. The technical scale is 1:319. A lot of people round that down because 1:300 is easier to remember. Either works. Technically 1:300 would be 50mm. The difference between 1:319 and 1:300 is almost a meter. I think it's safe to go with either. 15000 ÷ 300=50 50-47=3 3*300=900
  24. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    Time to get into the rigging. First thing I start with is the back stays. There's a lot of different methods for this. Use what ever method works best for you. This method has worked for me. Typically I create a channel specifically for the backstays and glue it onto the channel where the stays connect to the ship. Since I mismeasured a tad my ship is a little to wide for that. So I drilled my holes through the existing channels. When drilling these holes be careful not to make them to wide or to close together. They need to be wide enough for the thread but not much more. I'll explain why at the end. The backstays will be created using a single piece of thread. Pass the thread through through the channel and up through the gap in the two masts. Then done to the holes in the channel on the other side. The thread will pass down one hole and up the next. Then it will run up to the gap in the mast and down to the first channel. In this way the thread weaves back and for between the two channels and through the mast. Once you go through the last hole tie a stopping not, put a dab of glue on it and pull it into the channel. This is where the size of the holes and length between them matters. You can easily pull the thread out between the two holes if they are to close or the wood isn't strong enough. This is partially why I like having a separate glued on channel. If it breaks it can be cut off and remade. Its not so easy with the longer channel. It also looks more accurate. I tied two to make it thick enough and you can see I missed once. No worries that piece will be cut off. Once the stopper not is in place, pull on the other end of the string to tighten up the lines. Keep in mind that with the folding method the tension on the backstays will set the rake or angle of the mast. Tighten up the lines to get the right mast angle. Then on the loose end I put a little glue on the thread and pull it through the channel. This helps keep the tension right as I tie it off. Once the glue sets I tie a knot around the channel, glue it down and cut off the excess. This is the result. My thread is more frayed than I like but hopefully a little more wax will cure that. The forests thread is temporary for now. One more set of backstays will go up to the top mast but after that we move on to the fore stays.