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Bottled Ship Builder


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Everything posted by DSiemens

  1. Love latine rigs. I look forward to seeing more.
  2. Great carving. It's funny when you break it down the shapes of the Enterprise it ends up being a flying saucer with jet boosters.
  3. I see where it's going. It'll be tricky but I think it'll look really cool. I'm excited to seem more.
  4. DSiemens


    It's fun to see these all in one build logs. Magnificent work. The ship is beautiful. Your method ensured the lines were nice and tight and if really filled the bottle well. You did a great job.
  5. Love the perfume bottle. I also like the flag on the bow. You don't see that often but but my understanding is bow staffs were very often used historically.
  6. Bruce, Depends on how deep you want to go. I like Story of sail cause it gives good hull lines and rigging lines. When it comes to deck furniture there's not a lot of information. So I place it where I think things would be and from comparison with other models. It at least gives the hatch layout so you know where not to put things. The best place for true historical plans is probably the Greenwich Museum website. Most of those plans are late 1700's frigates. It would be an intensive build but the plans are original. Now some of the plans aren't complete. Like there maybe hull plans but not rigging plans. Thing about rigging is it was done pretty much the same and my understanding is captains would decide do what they wanted with rigging so it may have varied slightly captain to captain. So I don't sorry to much on the rigging end. Mast and yard arm lengths followed formulas based on the hull of the ship. The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 by R.C. Anderson has the formulas for the time periods it covers. That's what makes the book so technical. Once you figure out what is where in the book it becomes a great reference guide. It doesn't quite help you with the later time period generally found on Greenwhich though. Probably your best bet if you want all the details is the anatomy of a ship series. Now I'm not overly familiar with it but from what I've seen they have done the historical research to prove out the whats what of the ship they discuss. I think they include plans. You may have to take the dimensions and draw your own though. Or take a picture and resize it. That's what I usually do.
  7. That looks great. I love the angle of the light in the photo. Really brings out the detail and gives it a very realistic work. Beautiful.
  8. Bruce has come up with a logo and it looks fantastic! Here's our new logo. I will soon be setting up some purchase-able items that will include it. Thanks Bruce!
  9. Wire is such a good material for miniatures. I'll have to try that out on my boats. I'ts fun learning about the many materials that can be used. I know another Bob (not the one on out forum) that does steam boat miniatures. He uses wire and brass as well. One of the most interesting things he used was some sort of gum. I want to say guar gum but that's a food so I'm not sure it's right. Might be Amaco Gum. Anyway he got this stuff and would drill porthole windows in the side of his ship then take a toothpick and fill the holes with this gum. It dried clear and shiny and looked like he had installed windows on the tiny portholes.
  10. Fantastic work. The ship is shaping up nicely. Soaking and grain breaking have always worked for me. I typically use bass wood strips you can buy at hobby stores. I'm not sure how your wood will react but it's always worth a try. Then at least you know. Speaking of materials. Styrene works well for bulwarks too. Jeff just posted a good source for styrene. I'll post a link to the thread. I haven't used it yet but from what I've seen it looks great and bends well. If your sticking to wood another method I've seen from the larger scale ship builders is soaking wood in ammonia. I knew a guy that had a PVC pipe set up where he could unscrew the top and the planks would float up to the top. He'd grab one push the others down with the lid and screw it up again. It became his mobile plank soaking jig. He could bring it to club meetings with out stinking up the place. I'd test it first. Ammonia fumes typically darken some types of wood. I know it does for oak and cherry. If you want to make a darker ship without staining and with the color going clear through the wood look up ammonia fuming. I did it on one of mine and it's still one of my all time favorite sibs.
  11. What's your method and materials for making those boats. They have great detail for their small size.
  12. I was going to guess pine but you figured it out. As fas as bulwarks theres two methods I've used. One is using channels to hide the bulwark seem and the other is carving ship out to the deck. I don't recomend carving the deck out. Its not easy to do and theres a lot of room for error. Channels are a great way to hide bulwark lines and they very often run right under the bulwarks along the gun ports. The plans your using include a channel right under the bulwarks though they aren't always touching like my sloop was. Might be tedious but you might draw in the planking and let the seems blend in. You can do this either by pencil or scribing. I've scribed deck planking before by coating the deck with a clear nail polish and then cutting the plank lines with an exacto knife. I then went over it with a dark wood stain and immediatly wiped it off. The stain seeps into the cut lines but doesn't adhere to the polish. I've never done this for the side planking though.
  13. I miss the 35 mm cans. My dad was a photographer and we had a plethera of them. We used to use the snap cartadiges and load our own black and white film. Yeah I don't know why people get so picky about scale comparisons. The way the internet is I can take two seconds to find the Scottish shilling has a 23.5 mmm diameter. The US quarter has a 24.26 mm diameter. So slightly smaller than a quarter in the US. Its not that hard. Besides that I like seeing all the foreign coins. One of the best parts of ship in bottle building is how international it is.
  14. I'd love to see what you come up with. I was going to hire out an artist but there wasn't much interest so I canceled that. If you get a design together I don't mind getting a couple hats and things between friends. I've thought about drawing one myself but I'm horrible at drawing.
  15. You have had a rough go of it. 😲 I'm sorry to see its been so difficult. I think we've all been there at some point. I made this after a bad wreck of a brigatine I was building. I also had a bad wreck with my Scavanger build. Theres a build log on that one. You got the right attitude. Theres a belief in art that every one has a certain amount of mistakes. Trick is to get them all out of the way early on. I hope your next one comes out better.
  16. DSiemens


    It's extremely difficult to sell ship models in today's market. So many things can be mass produced and sold cheap these days. There's also a disconnect for the general public in regards to sailing ships. A lot of people have never seen a tall ship and they see rigging as a spider web of ropes. So they are ok with folk art models or art that show just a depiction of what a tall ship is. In order to sell a highly accurate model, for the time and effort that goes into that style you have to find the right demographic and that's very hard to do. I've heard the market exists but it's small and you need to know people.
  17. Jeff, generally I would agree you. That's why I made the beginners build log for the Bermuda Sloop which is a single masted single deck vessel. However, looking at the amount of detail and planning that's gone into this build so far, I think Calebs got this. I also consider another principle of first builds I learned from some old salts. If you build a ship you really like you are more likely to finish it. Keep it up Caleb you got this.
  18. My local ship club found someone who could embroider logo's onto hats for a low price and so the club sold a customized ball cap style hat to the club members that wanted one. I'll have to get a photo and post it. It was a huge hit in the club and I thought it may be fun to do something similar for the website. I've debated it for a long time and part of the problem is we don't have a logo per say. We have a photo at the top of the page but that's not a very embroider-able logo. I've contacted someone who could make us a logo but before I go forward with it I wanted to see what is the interest in buying a hat or t-shirt or other item that would show off your association with bottled ship builder? Is it something you would buy? Let me know what you think.
  19. Your off to a great start. The rigging plans look great. As far as wood bass wood is a great carving wood because it has a very light grain and pretty soft. It's available in most hobby shops here in the States so it becomes a go to wood. I have done one ship out of oak before. It was a constitution built out of a piece of oak from the actual ship. It was harder than bass wood and had a bit more grain but I didn't have any problems with it. Give it a shot. Worse comes to worse you can always choose something else. I saw a video of another Australian sib builder who used red cedar. I've seen a lot of great ships come from red cedar and wouldn't mind trying it myself. Your rigging notes are very detailed. I think you'll catch on the terms very quickly. One thing to note as you research there's two terms used some what simultaneously for ratlines even though they are different things. The ratlines are the horizontal lines used to make the rope ladder to access the tops. The more vertical lines that hold the deadeyes and attach to the mast are called shrouds. Most very technical builders will call them shrouds though I've seen them include the ratlines in that description as well. I find knowing keywords helps in finding information so knowing both is helpful. As far as the loops. Loops is fine. The real technical word is sail gaskets. I really had to dig to find that though since I would have just called them sail loops. Sail ties is also used.
  20. I've picked up most of what I know from other modelers in my local club. Honestly their knowledge far surpasses mine in regards to the names of individual parts. Not every one has a club they can go to though. The members of my club got most of their information from books. Here's a list of the common books I see. The Shipmodel Builders Assistant by Charles Davis The Art of Rigging by George Biddlecombe The Rigging of Ships (In the days of the sprit sail top mast 1600-1720) by R. C. Anderson I found this book insightful but extremely technical. It is not an easy read. The Anatomy of the Ship series has a lot of information on specific ships. Modelshipworld.com has a lot of build logs from very technical builders that may have information on parts. I've often read through build logs of similar or the same ships I was building to glean information. There's a lot we can learn from the bigger scale model builders. I will also Google some ship parts. This works for most simple parts. If I can't remember the different deck names I go to Google and put in ship deck names and I go to images and I get stuff like this.
  21. Welcome. I look forward to seeing your build log.
  22. I don't know this era ships as much but as I understand it they went through a lot of color changes as camouflage was being tested. I remember seeing an article on the razzle dazzle camo. I think that was much later though.
  23. That is very impressive. Very well done. I love all the detail and the ship color and sea look amazing. Thank you for sharing.
  24. I haven't mentioned it a while but I wanted to say thank you to every one that has donated to the site. I really appreciate your help in keeping the website going. All donations have gone toward the monthly $20 fee for the web service that generates the forum, and we're still paid up for several months. I haven't had to worry about it for a while and as I thought about that, I just had to say thank you. We have a good group and we're steadily growing. Whether it's advice, build logs, questions or donations thank you for being a part of Bottled Ship Builder. I appreciate all of you. Thanks, Daniel
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