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Bottled Ship Builder


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DSiemens last won the day on June 3

DSiemens had the most liked content!

About DSiemens

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  1. Great set of plans. This will be a fun build.
  2. Great work! She really came together nicely. I really like the stand in the bottle look, especially with a ship this detailed.
  3. That lopms great in that bottle. I live the way it frames the ship.
  4. I have that model that a friend asked me to build for him. I aught to start it and we can compare notes. I've been critical of it because I've seen more than a few accomplished builders that decided SIB building was to hard based on the kit. It would be good to dig in and see how it really is.
  5. DSiemens

    Bottle find

    That's going to look awesome.
  6. It was something like every two or three millimeters. I wasn't worried about scale, just that it looked good.
  7. Once the lines are tightened and glued off position the ship in the clay and glue it down. Then put finishing touches on the clay and the bottle. Build a stand. A block with a groove is an easy version. And that's it. Let me know if you have questions. These methods can be used in building bigger more complex ships. Theres also a ton of other methods. Find what works for you amd have fun.
  8. When I left off with this I needed to do the sea. I use plastaline or plastacine. Seems like theres a million spellings. Probably different chemical make up but essentially the same stuff. Its a putty that doesnt dry. It always stays plyable but its stiff enough to stay put in the bottle. I have some bottles going on six years old that have plastaline and they look as good as they did the day I made them. So despite never setting the stuff works. I put in a minimal amount of sea. Its surprising how little you can get away with. This means the ship can be taller and bigger in the bottle because the sea doesn't take as much room. Theres give and take to the amount of sea used. It comes down to preference amd what will fit in the bottle. I roll my clay out to about 3 to 4 cm thick. Then I hold it up to the bottle amd cut it to size. With thin sea the trick is keep width narrow. If the width is to wide the sea goes up the sides of the bottle and obstrects the view of the ship. I laid the sea on the bottle and cut it to size. The top and bottom will brew trimmed and the width will be narrowed from here. Then I hold the ship up to the bottle and the clay to determine where the ship will be in the bottle in proportion to the clay. From there cut the clay out where the ship will be. I cut the width down a little more and then put the sea in the bottle. Then I press it down with a piece of wire. The hole for the ship will need to be adjusted a bit. Go wide on this. Its easy to add clay its harder to widen it on the next step. Also something important to remember is to set the clay over the seam of the bottle. You don't want the seam in front of the view of the ship. The next step is to set the clay. This is done with a little heat. I hold the bottle over a hot burner for 30 seconds to a minute. Just enough so the clay next to the glass liquefies but not more than that. Here's a before. During And after With the hole in the sea the ship can be glued down to the glass. That step comes with personal ptefference. Some prefer to glue the ship down first then set the lines. Personally I glue and cut the lines then glue the ship down. After the clay is cooled waves and wakes can be formed and white clay can be added to give the sea a realistic look. I went with a smoother sea. From here the ship is ready to go in. Loosen the lines and fold the masts down and wrap the main sail around the ship. This is how it will look going in. You can glue the ship down or hold it with a piece of wire. Holding it can be a little harder but the advantage is if something goes wrong the lines can be cut and the ship pulled out. With it glued down you may have to break the bottle to get the ship out. The real trick is to make sure nothong goes wrong. I pull all the lines tight first then start gluing them down. That way I avoid snags and unforseen problems. Once every thing is in place I lossen the line slightly put a tiny bit of glue on the line and pull it through the hole or thread block. If you use CA make sure to use tiny amounts and turn the bottle up to let the fumes out. That way the bottle doesn't fog up. I use a flat end razor blade on a wire to cut the lines. Be very careful what the blade touches. Its very easy to cut a tight line.
  9. I like the idea of keeping them closed until your ready for them to open. Its one less thing to worry about in the bottle.
  10. I haven't seen Bob on the forum in quiet a while but the book he notes the plans came from is on Amazon. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Around-Cape-Horn-Charles-Davis/dp/0892726466&ved=2ahUKEwjpo_-jyLziAhVMnKwKHR5XDhwQFjAAegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw1oApJSlXfTvReoQhVDptNb&cshid=1558989461919
  11. DSiemens

    HMS Terror

    Great work. It really turned out nice.
  12. I knew a builder once that built ships first and found bottles after. It was kind of funny but it worked for him and his sibs were really nice. Great work on this one.
  13. I ran into that with this model. I used the next channel in. If that doesnt work drill through the side of the hull to the bottom of the hull and run the lines underneath.
  14. If it is from 1915ish its probably worth $250. I purchased a similar one for that price a couple years ago. Unfortunately they don't go up in value a whole lot. There's not a big market for old ships in bottles. If its later it'll be maybe $200 to $150.
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