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DSiemens

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DSiemens last won the day on July 16

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About DSiemens

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  1. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    Time to put some cannons in. Going back to the concept of putting together shapes a cannon consists of a cylinder sitting on a rectangle. For the cylinder I opened up an old cell phone charger cable and pulled out the black wire. For the rectangle I found a nice dark veneer and cut strips. I still had to thin it a bit to fit the cannons in the gun ports. Good to be aware of sizing on this part. Here it is with all the carriages glued in. If you can get a hold of or build this tool I highly recomend it. It really helps keep my length cuts consistent. Here it is with cannons. One of the last parts the hull needs is the channelsnfor the rigging. This is the piece chain plates and deadeys attach to on real ships. For this I cut a piece of veneer, drilled four holes and glued it to the side of the hull where the backstays will attach. This piece will be used for those back stays. Starting to get into masts and rigging. More to come.
  2. DSiemens

    Permission to come aboard!

    Welcome aboard. Nothong wrong with a million questions. Ask away. Thats what we're here for. I look forward to seeing your work. It is a fun and addicting hobby.
  3. DSiemens

    HMS Gannet

    She is coming together beautifully. Wonderful work.
  4. DSiemens

    A You Tube SIB Video

    That is some very intereting techniques. A great example of using every day objects in a ship in bottle build. Thanks for sharing.
  5. DSiemens

    Pirate type Galleon

    Thats never fun. You got this though. I look forward to seeing her sailing in the bottle.
  6. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    Next part is the windlass. The windlass is used to haul anchors and other heavy things on and of the ship. Breaking it down the simplest form is two triangles and a cylinder. Glue those right on deck just behind the bowsprit. Also another couple small pieces. I put in a couple rectangular pieces one just behind the bowsprit and one on the bowsprit. Looking at the photo of the other model it looks like theres a block on a stand just behind the bowsprit and a ships bell on the bowsprit. I did a ships bell this small on the Scavenger but being a beginners build I thought a rectangle on the bowsprit would work. I'll put a dot of gold paint where the bell goes. From here I need to add cannons and then start on masts and rigging.
  7. DSiemens

    Undecided!

    Looks great. Awesome job.
  8. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    To make sure I have the right spacing for the bowsprit and the windlass I'm putting the bowsprit in next. I cut a notch in the front bulwarks to get the angle of the bowsprit according to the plans. I glue the bowsprit in the notch and to the deck. I'm not worried about the bowsprit being pulled up by the rigging because of the bobstay. The bobstay runs from the bowsprit to the stem. As the bowsprit is pulled up the bobstay pulls it back and creates a fulcrum. As the end of the bowsprit is pulled up the end attached to the hull will be pushed down. In order to attach a bobstay to a stem I gotta have a stem. Starting out I round out a piece of wood to match the hull. I cut the top to match the angle of the bowsprit then round out what will be the front of the stem. Little more sanding to shape it and the stem is good to go. I'm not doing the bobstay just yet but its something to keep in mind.
  9. DSiemens

    How to Build a Bermuda Sloop (for beginners)

    Time to add in the bilge pumps. Basically this piece. Breaking this down its a cylinder with a handle on top. First I drilled a couple holes. That ensures they aren't going anywhere. I like to use booboo scewers on round objects particularly masts and yards. Its a sturdy material and it works well pulling through a draw plate. Another great method is putting the scewer into a drill and turning it until its smaller. I don't suggest turning in a Dremel though. Dremels turn to fast which makes bamboo into a projectile. Drills are slower and more controlled. Once I have the skewers whittled down I cut off a piece and glue it in making sure they are the right hieght. The handle I make out of a paint brush bristle. Its thin and stays straight. A little black paint gives it a good look. Glue it on at an angle to look like the handle is sitting at rest.
  10. The Bottled Ship Wright Club has been set up and is ready to go. Check it out in the clubs tab.
  11. DSiemens

    Pirate type Galleon

    I agree Oni. I often think ships in bottles are part model and part painting. You don't need to put in every line. Just enough to convey the idea. Most details go unnoticed any way. Probably one out of ten people notice I put seagulls in some of my bottles.
  12. DSiemens

    Pirate type Galleon

    Here's a rigging plan that's very similar to your ship. There's a lot of different way to rig a ship in a bottle. One of my favorite techniques to use in rigging I learned from John Fox III. It's called the thread block. Here's a link to the video on it. Basically it's tying a string around a needle to create a small loop and then gluing the knot so the loop doesn't close. These loops can be used all over the ship to run lines through. The alternative to this is seed beads. They are bigger than thread blocks but as you've seen from the other photo's you've found they do work well. When I'm not going for a super crazy accurate look on running rigging I take a simplified approach. There's three parts lifts, clew lines and sheets/braces. The lifts which run from the tip of the yardarm to the mast I think are optional. Some sibs have them, many more don't. I think they look nice but including them is up to you. To rig them in the bottle I use a thread block attached to the mast above the yard arm. I then tie a line to the end of the yard thread it through the block and tie it to the other end of the yard. The yard should still be able to turn almost parallel to the mast even with this line in place. That makes it possible to insert it into the bottle and there's not a lot of messing with the lift once it's in. Just adjust the yard and if needed put a dab of glue on the thread block to keep it all in place. Clew lines are attached to the end of the yard arm and have a block on them. The braces run from the hull through the clue lines and back to the hull. These are typically used on the bigger yard arms. Note the smaller yard arms higher on the mast don't have clew lines. This is where a thread block or seed bead comes in handy. Attach a line to the end of the yard that has a thread block or seed bead on the end. Sheets typically run towards the back of the ship. This is advantageous to the folding method since the lines can be put in place and as the masts fold backwards the lines become loose and then tighten up as the masts are pulled up into place. This does require a lot of testing though. Typically the sheets running through the clew lines run farther back on the ship and can be glued down to the hull. The sheets in the upper yards are trickier. On a real ship these lines often run to the fore stays and then down to pin rails on deck or on the bulwarks. That is hard to replicate on a ship in bottle. The simpler method is to run them to the mast aft of the yard arms. Older ships in bottles would drill a hole in the mast and run a line through it similar to what I explained with the lifts. If done right you can still fold the masts back using this method. I use a similar method except I tie a thread block to the mast. drilling holes in the mast makes them weaker and risks a break. Tying a thread block gives the same effect with out effecting the integrity of the mast. You can also run the sheets so they run out of the bottle and can be tightened after the ship is in. It depends on what you want to accomplish and how you design the ship to fold and unfold. Another method I use is to get a paint brush bristle and glue it to the end of the yard so that it just touches the mast behind that yard or vise versa. Once the ship is in you can glue the other end in place. Look at my build of the Scavenger as an example. I hope this helps. Ask more questions if needed.
  13. DSiemens

    Pirate type Galleon

    Strangley I dont know that we have a thread covering rigging or rigging techniques. There are two main parts the stamding rigging and the running rigging. The standing rigging is for structural support amd does not move. The running rigging moves the yards and sails so it runs through blocks. To this point you've done a great job on the standing rigging. This includes the back stays, shrouds, ratlines, and fore stays. What hasn't been added is the running rigging. Is this what you would like to know more about?
  14. DSiemens

    Started build no.2

    Excellent. Looking great so far and moving right along.
  15. DSiemens

    Started build no.2

    Yikes. Close call. Glad you have it worked out.
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