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Bottled Ship Builder

DSiemens

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DSiemens last won the day on April 26

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About DSiemens

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  1. I knew a builder once that built ships first and found bottles after. It was kind of funny but it worked for him and his sibs were really nice. Great work on this one.
  2. I ran into that with this model. I used the next channel in. If that doesnt work drill through the side of the hull to the bottom of the hull and run the lines underneath.
  3. If it is from 1915ish its probably worth $250. I purchased a similar one for that price a couple years ago. Unfortunately they don't go up in value a whole lot. There's not a big market for old ships in bottles. If its later it'll be maybe $200 to $150.
  4. The style is early 1900's. Probably around 1915 to 1920. Can you semd more photos of the bottle. Particularly the head of the bottle, the bottom of the bottle and a close up on the sides. Finding the time frame the bottle was made gives clues of the age of the ship in bottle. The ship is an American clipper ship. Hard to tell which one. Is there any details of the deck, or any names or symbols on the ship? Who ever did it knew ships very well. The rigging is very correct and the mast and spar proportions are really good especially for this style. I'm curious about the town in the back ground, sometimes ship in bottle builders depicted an actual place. Its hard to say with generic buildings but the building in the middle and the mountain has me curious. Any one have any ideas?
  5. DSiemens

    HMS Terror

    Its always so crazy to see a ship in so many pieces and so fun to see it all come together.
  6. DSiemens

    HMS Terror

    The Ship is coming together nicely. Great work.
  7. The whole thing is glass. Its a glass blown ship in bottle. I'm not sure how it all came together. The bottom of the ship is fused into the bottle it self. The sails are all glass. It looked like the glass is fused together when its still hot. The bottom sail was fused to the sail above it. To much bumping around broke the two apart leaving a loose sail. I was able to get it back in place and glue it where it was fused originally.
  8. Well I had my first opportunity at ship in bottle repair. It was entirely different than I expected I'd do with a ship in bottle repair but I got it back together. I should have got a picture before I got it back together but when the gentlemen brought it over the mizzen main sail was floating around the bottle totally detached. I had to maneuver it in place and glue it down. Took two hours but I did it. Funny thing with glass ships. There no wiggle room.
  9. That looks great. Your doing an awesome job. I like that your not afraid to go small with your bulwarks, rails, masts and yard arms. Gives the ship a more realistic look. I sometimes think you can tell a good ship in bottle because you could imagine yourself walking around on deck. I can do that with your model. I've never been on a real sailing ship either. Biggest I've been on is a day sailing dinghy which isn't much. It is kind of funny being from a land locked state in the US that I'd be so into sailing ships. There's just a sense of adventure to them that I like. The more you get into this hobby the more you learn. I happen to be in a ship modeling club as well with people that build the big static models. 1:50 scale or bigger sort of models. There is a tendency to get particular about historical details and scale in that group and I fall into that sometimes and build in that way but, my way is not THE way, it's just one way. There is room for all types of building in the art though so I think people should be as technical or not technical as they like. Ultimately it's about having fun. A great example is an Etsy shop I came across from a builder in Ukraine. Brenner is the name he has on Etsy and he has some of the most beautiful ships in bottles I have ever seen. They are artistically amazing. They are not at all scale, or historically accurate and don't have a lot of detail. None of that matters, they are beautiful. Here's a link. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Wardroom?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=696912513 Anyway that was a big tangent just to say build how you want, at your own pace, and have fun.
  10. The forum is very slow but not dead. There are a ton of different ratline methods. I've seen people use lace, or even photo etching. There's good and bad to all methods. I agree that lace or screening doesn't look the best and metal being hard is harder to get into the bottle. I haven't tried all the methods but I can tell you what works well for me. There's two parts ratlines and it maybe obvious but I'll point them out just so every one understands my terminology. The lines connecting the mast to the ship and run more or less vertically are called shrouds. The lines that work as ladders and run horizontally are called ratlines. Since I usually use the folding method the tightness of the shrouds is important for setting the rake or angle of the mast. So while some builders make their shrouds and ratlines separate and add them on to the ship after the two parts are combined, I put the shrouds on first then add the ratlines. I like to make my shrouds with a single line weaving back and forth from the ship to the mast. This makes tightening easy since I pull the line and move the mast back and forth to tighten the shrouds. Once the shrouds are tightened I tie down and glue down the last line. Then I move on to the ratlines. With the mast pulled forward and shrouds tight I glue on the ratlines. This can be done one by one or you can use a frame. Place the frame between the mast on the shrouds and glue the ratlines to the shrouds. I've used superglue and white glue. Both work fine. I will say superglue dries stiff so try not to use to much. Also if you get to much on the line it may leave a white blob. These can be painted over if needed. If you use white glue try using the frame to keep the lines in place while the glue dries. That tends to work well. Test the lines once the glue is dry to make sure they are secure. Then cut off the excess with follicle clippers. I describe this method in more detail in my Bermuda sloop build log and there is more pictures.
  11. Yeah. I'll move the ship all over the bottle in this process. Gravity helps too. Some times I turn the bottle upright and let the ship hang off of its lines. Once all the lines are glued down and cut off then I maneuver the ship to the sea base. Helps to have a piece of plastic wrap over the sea so you don't get putty on the yards or mast in the process.
  12. I agree it probably is a chemical patent and they are all different. Definitely experiment and find what works for you. As far as the wire method. I use coat hanger wire so its pretty stiff. It does take some practice and patience. I do have a photo I need to add to my current build log. Notice the wire is placed just before the mast and holds the ship down. I'm holding the forestay line with the same hand I'm holding the wire with. I use my free hand to pull the line tight and work my tools. First thing I do is tighten the line where I want it to check that every thing is working. Second I loosen the line a little bit. With a second wire I put a dab of super glue on the line right in front of the thread block or hole the line is being pulled through. I pull that wire out and tighten the line. Since I use super glue this takes about five seconds. Last, once the glue is dry I go back with a razor blade on the end of a wire and cut the line. All of this is done with one hand on the wire holding the ship down and the other working the tools. The advantage is you can maneuver the ship to reach lines easier than you would if the ship was glued down. Also on a catastrophic failure you can cut the rigging and pull the ship out with out breaking the bottle.
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