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exwafoo

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  1. Some suggestions. The first two are excellent beginners books. Leon's has a number of plans. Both available second hand. The third covers just about everything and is best obtained from the publisher www.skipper.co.uk at ยฃ35, as some of the web sites prices such as Amazon are fairly outrageous. Cheers Alan
  2. No worries. The Health and Safety Police can ruin anyone's plans.
  3. Hi Mick, If you are using a drill, chuck the yard just before the middle and sand, then reverse and repeat. I don't taper mine at small scale because I don't think its noticeable and the yard is then fragile. I've also found that using a drill to spin the yard can take too much off too quickly and it breaks, so I made a jig for hand sanding to finish to size. Its reasonably quick to use. See attachment. I use 'Masting and Rigging' by Robbert Kipping, my copy was printed in 1928 by 'The Technical Press, London' to give me an idea of sizes if the plan is a bit vague. This has tables that give dimensions for masts and yards for all types of ship, types of rig, eg schooner or square, tonnage, wood or steel, etc. It also gives sizes and types of rope and blocks. I've just checked online and its still being printed at a reasonable cost, and second hand copies (like mine) are still available. I've dug out an example: A ship of 500 tons, length 130 ft, breadth 30 ft. The given dimensions for the main yard are 57 ft long, not counting the arms,13.5 inches thick at the middle reducing to 9.5 inches at the 3rd quarter, ie 3/4 of the way between the middle and end. If you are doing them to a scale, eg; 1/250, then that comes down, for round figures, to slightly under 1/16 inch reducing to just over 1/32 inch at the 3rd quarter. Given this sort of scale thickness, I don't take them down to this because they would be very fragile, just to what looks reasonable without breaking, and very gently round over the ends. Once sails are on, unless really thick, then they will look fine, especially in the bottle. A tip is to drill any holes before sanding/or tapering because its a lot easier on thicker stock with less chance of splitting. If very thin after sanding, then you can strengthen them with CA glue or thinned acrylic varnish. When all is finished and rigged, the lack of a taper is not noticeable, and there is a lot less chance of a break when putting into the bottle. I only used it myself once, and used thin brass tube and rod for masts and yards on the Colvic Watson SIB to obtain scale size. I know this method is used on other ship models. Hope this helps you a bit Best Alan PS Just discovered it free as a download from Google Books Mast and Spar mast and spar jig.pdf
  4. Nice work. I haven't seen a 1 bob piece for a while either. Alan
  5. Its not a SIB unless there is DNA in it ๐Ÿคจ Alan
  6. This is one place its never been before ๐Ÿ˜ Alan
  7. Hi Bruce, All Finding plans can be a pain. I've built up a small library over the years of books that have plans in them. I've obtained most of these books from second hand bookshops on line at a reasonable cost. I've enclosed a list of some to look out for. If you cannot find any second hand copies, then check out https://www.skipper.co.uk/ (Brown, Son & Ferguson) where reprints of the H Underhill books are available, as well as most of his plans (fill size), and his plans are very detailed indeed. Brown, Son & Ferguson also publish 'Ship Models in Glass' Beware of some reprints advertised on a large multinational on line site named after a very large South American river. My wife bought me some reprints from here last Christmas. The 'plans' had been reduced to the size of one page and were for the most part illegible. Returned and refunded. Also beware some of the 'free' plans sites. A lot of these are rip offs of other people's plans and require a sign up for a 'free trial'. The enclosed list does not give ISBN for all of them. I don't think it was used on the copies I have when they were printed. Hope its of some use to you. Regards Alan Book list.doc
  8. One way that is used to get thin strips of wood for SIBing is to use a carpenters plane, nice and sharp, to remove several shavings from a block of wood. These curly shavings are soaked in water and then let dry between weights and this results in keeping them flat. Set the plane iron to give the required thickness. I've tried making the strips, nice and flexible, but have not used them anywhere yet. I've seen strips of wood bent to shape by running them over a hot soldering iron with a clean bit on some You Tube modelling videos, but never tried this myself. If you search ebay for 'model ship plank bending tool' you'll see a selection of commercially available benders of different design for large scale ship modelling. Hull is shaping up nicely. It looks nice wood you are using. Regards Alan
  9. A researcher at the Scottish Maritime Museum told me one of the ways to search for a ship is to use ' Wrecked' and 'name of ship' .Its found references that never showed up otherwise, a lot in old Australian newspapers. Thanks for the answer.
  10. The pen is like a signature Bob, some people get comfort from seeing it. I try to use a cutting mat for the background in photos so there is a scale.My wife has just got me a nice very pale blue one as I kept failing to see small black pieces against the green and black of the usual ones. Unfortunately, the web and forums are haunted by people who take the opportunity via its anonymity to slang off other people, or try and impose their way as the only way. My wife gave up batoring, I think that's how it is spelled, because of the flack she was getting. This was checking authors books for correct English and factual references. Most of the flack came from the USA, unfortunately, from people who would not accept that for example, generally, we in the UK don't eat pancakes with maple syrup for breakfast, nor swing on a seat on the porch to watch the sun go down. No research first. However, back to the thread. Some really nice miniature work on the Dreadnought. And that is another super ship Bob. What happened to the real one - 3 years is a short life.
  11. Yep. keep at it. If something doesn't break at least once, then I'm surprised. Alan
  12. Hi All, There is a link to Shipbuilder's free plans for his deck scoring device in the thread 'Width of Deck Planking' in the General Ships in Bottles discussion. Looking at some of his work, this works very well. Back to bulwarks: to finish off bulwarks when digging out the deck well, I made a scrapper from bits of brass tube and an old UK mains plug (a good source for bits of brass that are already threaded for a screw). The bit is ground from a masonry nail, which is very hard carbon steel so it holds an edge. The screw to the left of the bit with the black insulation goes through a hole in the vertical tube to allow the bit to be locked at the required depth setting, the square tube with the screw on the left side (can be moved to the right side) of the horizontal tube acts as a guide against the outside of the hull. The tool is held so the bit is vertical to the wood. It takes a bit of time, but scrapping down to the final thickness and depth gives a good result. I've also seen this done with two nails, one blunt, the other ground to a chisel shape and pushed through two holes drilled as required in a small length of rectangular wood. Best Alan
  13. Dan, " If you build a ship you really like you are more likely to finish it." Very true Cheers Alan
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