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Bottled Ship Builder


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exwafoo last won the day on November 19

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About exwafoo

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  1. Black Pearl

    I get it in the local model shop. There is a good selection of packs of sheet. strips, rods and tubes. Its called Evergreen Strip Styrene, although there are other makes and its certainly available on the internet. I've found it useful for a number of things. Its good for building up small pieces like window openings, or making tops or cross trees, and adding detail like the wales. Not so good if the small piece requires a bit of strength. Having a length of the right size strip saves a lot of cutting. There are modelers that use it for moulding, eg, making lifeboats. I've never tried this myself. Some fun for the future perhaps. A few tips from lessons learned from mistakes. Drill holes or cut openings first, then cut down to the external size or the piece can split. I've got into the habit of drilling (with wood as well) a smaller than required hole and then opening it up with a cutting broach to the size required. I've had a lot less splits that way and it produces a smoother hole, good if thread has to run through it.. Think about gluing. Small pieces require a small amount of glue. Polystyrene cement comes in two forms, liquid or gel. The liquid can be applied with a brush or a thin metal tube and dries almost instantaneously; the gel needs very careful application and takes longer to dry. If you use too much of either on a small piece then all you get is a melted lump pf plastic. CA works, but I've found it will let go if the pieces are knocked later on. 'Break' the edges of the styrene, ie, take the sharp edge off, or paint will not stick well to the edge. The Discs that John Fox III sells show how he uses styrene on some of his SIBS. I picked up some good tips from him. Youtube also has some good 'How to' videos on Styrene modelling - search under 'Styrene Modeling' Hope this helps a bit Alan
  2. a lovely bit of miniature work. Alan
  3. How to do water

    Hi Scott, I don’t think there is any best way to do sea. I’ve spent a fair bit of time out on blue water and I don’t think there are two places the same ever. At best it is a representation of the sea. If you look through the forum you will see a variety of ways, bare wood, painted wood, putty, Plasticine, resin, etc. Some have no sea, but put the SIB on a stand. Bob (shipbuilder) has excellent sea, but in a case, not a bottle. They all look good as a piece of art. I think the best thing to do is try a couple, experiment, and use the one best suited to yourself. I use Plasticine. Reasonably priced, non-toxic in a variety of colours that can be mixed to give the shade required. I tend to use blue, green, grey, black with white for foam. The ‘new’ formulation tends to colour hands, when softening it for use. I haven’t tried Daniel’s trick of melting it into place – might give it a go sometime. I use a variety of home made tools, left to right; · A bent nail in a garden cane with the head sanded smooth. · Bent Aluminium Rod in a garden cane with the head sanded smooth · Bent Aluminium Wire in a garden cane with the head sanded smooth · A length of wire coat hanger · An old stainless steel desert spoon with the edges cut away in a garden cane · A brass olive from a compression pipe joint with a piece of dowel tightly fitted in it, drilled through and mounted on a length of wire coat hanger – used as a roller Swab for cleaning the inside using acetone. After the ‘sea’ is in, I shape the surface. Think about where you want the wind from – this will be the direction of the waves (usually). Also the height of the wave, if you want full sail, then don’t have Force 8 size waves, the masts would not take it in real life. I shape the hull recess around the hull blank before any painting as the Plasticene will stick to it. With the blank hull in place, I put in the wake, dogbone, etc, caused by the hull, foam on the wave crests etc. Little bits of white Plasticene do for this. They can be smeared onto the wavetops and it doesn’t have to be even, there is no such thing at sea. In the example below, I have the wind coming from the port quarter. As I said, not totally realistic, but it sets the scene. Then I take the hull out and finish the build. If there is any assembling to be done in the bottle I cover the sea with gauze, to keep things clean, assemble, remove the gauze and put the hull in the recess. A bit of final adjusting of the Plasticene to hold the SIB and that’s it. Have fun experimenting Alan
  4. Hello from Southern Finland

    Looks like some nice work. Alan
  5. Black Pearl

    Hi All, Time for a bit of an update. More or less finished, as far as I want to go anyway. I need to make some guns, anchor, and the figurehead. I've started the rigging, hence it still looking like a limp washing line, might have a rethink on a couple of bits of this - I'll see how it goes. One thing I have found is that working with all black makes for hard work seeing the rigging against the ship and sails. It really does need a bright light. Also hard to get a good phot. best to all Alan
  6. Gun Station

    Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. A work colleague suggested I name the pieces, so from left to right Salt Box - wooden box with leather hinges to hold a couple of cartridges - the salt soaked up any moisture Cartridge container - lidded wooden container used to carry the cartridges up from the magazine - usually by the ships boys, the Powder Monkeys Handspikes - resting against the cannon - substantial shaped levers used to train the gun carriage around Sponge Tub - filled with water - used to sponge out the barrel after a shot to make sure no burning debris before putting in the next cartrige Match Tub - conical, half filled with water. A fire precaution on ships. The burning ends of the match were fed through holes in the top. If knocked over the water put out the match. The match was used if the flintlock on the gun failed. Rammer, Sponge, Worm and Powder Scoop Happy modeling Alan
  7. Pirate Ship Scavenger

    Same here - just a list of alpa-numerics Alan
  8. Constitutionen

    Going to be a nice one to follow. Talking of old magazines, this link may be useful in the future. Some do have plans for model boats. http://meccano.magazines.free.fr/ Best Alan
  9. Small steel barquentine

    Bob, Your seas are incredible, they really do set of the model a treat. Alan
  10. Gun Station

    Hi All A number of years ago, I bought the first copy of a part works magazine on building a 1/96 HMS Victory. The reasons were, it was only £1.99 (starter price) and it had some nice colour pictures for reference, some nice pieces of thin plywood (always hard to find in the UK) to be used as bulkheads. It also had a gun kit comprising barrel, carriage (in 3 pieces), trucks, capsquares, a length of brass rod for axels and some small brass nails to hold the capsquares on with. This has been sculling around in the bottom of my toolbox for a while now, so I thought I’d have a bash at a bit of a diorama in a bottle as a side project. I used oak strip from www.stripwood.co.uk for the deck and hull, and the Salt Box. The Sponge Tub was made from 1mm wide strip cut from a piece of veneer (not sure what wood), coloured black on one side then stained Light Oak. Similarly the Match Tub, although this was easier as it has a solid wood former under the strips. The Handspikes were carved from dowel and stained. The Rammer was bamboo stick thinned down with the rammer part turned and stained, similarly for the Sponge, however the head was painted white to simulate fleece. The Powder Scoop was bamboo stick with the scoop fashioned from pieces of styrene tubing and then painted; the Worm was bamboo with a coiled bit of wire painted black. I turned the Cartridge Case from a bit of Elm, as I believe the originals were. As to the gun itself, the carriage took a bit of rework to get the parts to fit and then be shaped so that it looked ok. The supplied trucks were enamelled metal, so I used them to get dimensions, and used these to turn some new trucks from Elm, as this was used in the real thing. Brass wire painted black was used to make the ringbolts on the gun carriage and for the lashing points on the hull. I carved the blocks from a length of mahogany strip, used some thin brass wire to strop them and used thin thread for the rope. Once in place I soaked the thread with dilute PVA glue to stiffen them in place. I showed them loosened on the diorama. The breeching rope was a thicker bit of thread; it was thick enough so that I could actually whip the eye (with a spot of glue just to make sure) after passing through the ringbolts. The small brass nails supplied to put the capsquares on were far too big so were replaced with smaller ones. The Capsquares were actually too big for the trunnions, (the barrel could fall out), so I shimmed them with some thin walled brass tube. All painted black. The bottle is a small spirit bottle, probably quarter size, about 6 inches long overall. The inside is about 3 inches long, with a top to bottom taper that caused a bit of fettling to get the deck to fit. It then took a bit of trial and error to get the deck fixed in position. CA didn’t want to know, I tried UV cured glue, but that was curing too quickly in the bright daylight (it does happen in the UK sometimes) so I used a couple of bits of Milliput in the end – not the prettiest solution – I would rethink this bit if I ever try something like this again. The stand is a bit of MDF covered in Oak Veneer, and the bottle supports are Oak strip. Turks Head knot to finish off. best Alan Test fit with a bit of Blutac to hold in place From the bad guy's point of view All bits in place From the other side From the top All in Again
  11. Small steel barquentine

    Another super model Bob. Alan
  12. MOVED from - RMS St Helena ex Northland Prince

    willing to chip in as well Alan
  13. MOVED from - RMS St Helena ex Northland Prince

    Hi Dan, Sad news. I've been a bit slow in posting updates, as there are other activities that have to be done in the summer months. Please make sure that we are kept posted with dates and the links to the Facebook etc, sites before any closure. Also, please remember that the EASIB (http://www.shipinabottle.talktalk.net/) is still going, with a reasonable subscription and the four quality, A4 sized full colour member's magazines, 'BOTTLESHIP' a year, and a Bi-annual convention (next one is Sept 2018 in Great Yarmouth, over on the East Coast. New members are always welcome, and although the name is 'European' we have members from all over the world. A lot of the past issue mags are available on disc (very reasonably priced) and I'm slowly digitizing the rest so they will be available as well. I also suspect that there is more interest than posting activity if you know what I mean. All the best Alan
  14. free e book

    Came across this https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_Clipper_Ship_Era Alan
  15. What else do you model besides SIBs?

    Thanks Dan Alan