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Bottled Ship Builder


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exwafoo last won the day on January 28

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  1. You could always position them so they are just about to enter or leave the sea., and 'foam' the sea to suit. Would save any worry about pushing into the sea medium. Alan
  2. Bluenoser, 1/72 scale, ie 1 inch to 6 feet. The SIB will be about 6 inches long, a small Drakar, or 'Dragon Ship'. The figures are as shown. An internet search will show suppliers. I decided to buy them as I'm not confident of carving any. The planned bottle is a 2½ litre cider bottle that gives enough height for the mast. Regards Alan PS: Oars, shields, and sea chests (used for sitting on) are also in the box. The figures comprise rowers, a helmsman, and others in various poses for working ship.
  3. Bruce, I'd be wary of using brush bristles. I've just tried using them as yards on a miniature (build log being written) like the articles suggest. The ones I used were off of a wallpaper paste brush (unused). I think they were made from Teflon as I had the devils own job to get glue to stick to them. None of PVA, CA, or Paraloid B72 stuck them to the sails or rigging easily. I managed in the end, but it was only by using a large dollop. Luckily the build is more of an experiment than anything else. I actually redid a mast using styrene rod and this worked well. I can let you have some drawings for a longship that I've been working on. My wife wants one. It will be at 1/72 and use 1/72 crew available commercially. On the back burner at present. PM me your email and I'll get them to you. Regards to all Alan
  4. Very nice work John. Thanks for sharing.
  5. Not many these days I would think. No batteries in a SIB. At EASIB, we have a childrens' category at our convention. There are always some, but not perhaps as many as we would like to see. Our treasurer has developed a method using laminated paper instead of wood that does away with the need for craft blades and only uses scissors to make it safer for youngsters. The SIBS still look good. Regards Alan
  6. Hi Dan, A mile high? The highest we have in the UK is Ben Nevis at just over 4000 ft. Climbed it once in the days of my youth. Right! Bottle cleaning. I made a tool, one end of which is shown at the top of the photo below. Its a bamboo skewer about 15 inches long, with 2 pieces of brass tube bent and pushed on the ends ( the end not shown has a sharper angle). The inside diameter of the tube is just large enough to take the end of a cotton swab, I crushed the tube a bit to give grip. The different angles allow access to all of the inside of the bottle. Dip the swab in acetone, insert in bottle and scrub the offending water stain, glue (including super glue), sea, paint etc. Replace the swab when dirty. I've found this works well. I've stopped buying acetone from a pharmacy because its a lot cheaper to get it from a cleaning equipment supplier. Note the wooden swab stick. Besides being bad for the environment, the plastic ones will soften in the acetone. Best Alan If you
  7. Hi All, A bit more on super glue. I’ve had problems using superglue in the past, I’ve not had fogging tho’. I know a couple of SIBers that use the air pump method and am bearing that in mind just in case. The Colvic Watson 28ft motor sailor SIB that I did had stainless steel stays and I used a silver thread to simulate them. The Superglue let go a couple of days after cutting off the excess line after launch. I suspect whatever the silver dye was, it reacted badly. I managed to bodge a repair, but it set me on the hunt for a ‘good’ glue. I came across the British Museum YouTube site showing conservation of various objects, and took note of what materials they were using. They use an Acrylic Adhesive called Paraloid B72. There is quite a bit of info on the web on its use. Its main benefit is that it is reversible with the correct solvent, that's why conservators like it. It seems to be used to stick just about anything to anything. You can get it in tubes, but reading up on how to use it, the best way is to obtain the granules and mix it. Sounds awful, but actually its not. I got 50 gms for about a £5 off of the interweb, I’ve since discovered it can be cheaper from conservation materials suppliers. Its like a handful of plastic beads. Its mixed with acetone (the pure stuff from the pharmacy, not nail varnish remover that has added lotions and so on), I use this for cleaning out any residual marks in bottles so had some around. Its mixed in a weight/volume ratio, eg 1gm in 10ml acetone gives a 10% mix and is recommended as a varnish. 5gms in 10 ml gives a 50% mix and is used as a glue. I’ve mixed up a 10% batch in a small glass jar (the kind that has the marmalade in it in hotels at breakfast) so it soaks into the thread nicely, and am using it on some rigging at present. I use a needle stuck into a small stick with the eye ground to a ‘U’ shape as an applicator. So, what's it like to use? It’s nice and fluid at this mix. I can dip an inch or so of thread in it for ease of threading through holes, and it will dry in a couple of minutes and completely harden after leaving it for a bit longer. I suppose I get about 30 to 40 seconds working time before it goes tacky enough to start ‘stringing’. It dries clear, and seems to hold well. If it starts getting a bit thick due to evaporation of the acetone, then add a drop more. This may be the glue to use in any restoration of an old SIB. A big bonus is that it doesn't stick to me! I’ve also used a 50% mix for sticking some thread to wood and wood to wood, seems to work fine, just not as instant as CA glue. best Alan
  8. I broke a mast putting a SIB ketch in the bottle before Christmas. It was a very tight fit, (bad planning) and I got away with it off the SIB as a trial, but once rigged, it broke. Back out, repaired, mast shortened a bit, and I'm getting ready for the next try. There will be a build log shortly. Its all learning. Basically I just found another way not to do it. best Alan
  9. Nice work Joe, and just to fling a spanner in the works over paint colour, the purists talk about 'Scale Colour', where the colour is faded by an amount proportional to scale (used to work with a couple of model aircraft builders). I had a lot of fun baiting them over this. Cheers Alan
  10. Dan, I agree with you on the speed of the drill. I use a Proxxon with variable speed, but even on low its still fast. I use it to rough sand, then use the jig in my post above to finish off. I've found that using a draw plate can also put kinks into a dowel if there is a hard spot that pushes the dowel to one side. Alan
  11. Hi Bruce. Yes, they are a bit flimsy. I've copied others that are similar by using a piece of stiff white card behind the drawing, and the drawing held by paperclips. I held the book and drawing against a wall while my wife took a photo using a tripod. This works well. If there are no scales on the drawing. then photocopy a ruler and clip that on to the drawing for scale. This allows you to shrink/grow the image as required, so the different ones can be the same size. If you shrink them down, then some of the lines will become very close. A tip from my technical authoring days is to get some sharp coloured pencils and lightly colour in, for eg, the masts and sails. This makes them stand out from any rigging. best Alan
  12. The Publisher is still trading in nautical books and model plans. https://www.skipper.co.uk/ I've found that in a number of cases the nice new reprint from them is actually cheaper than an old copy from such as Amazon. My copy is a 1944 reprint and it has a wealth of info on clipperships. This book has pullout plans for the Cutty Sark (simple waterline model) and larger detailed plans for the 4 mast Loch Torrens, plus dozens of other photos and drawings of masts and deck detail. Its worth getting hold of. Happy New Year Alan
  13. Came across this Good for a chuckle Star Trek link All the best for the New Year Alan
  14. The dropped bottle at the beginning sure made me cringe.
  15. Postage kills trade between UK and USA. Perhaps Brexit will sort it. Alan
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