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exwafoo

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exwafoo last won the day on October 16

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  1. One way that is used to get thin strips of wood for SIBing is to use a carpenters plane, nice and sharp, to remove several shavings from a block of wood. These curly shavings are soaked in water and then let dry between weights and this results in keeping them flat. Set the plane iron to give the required thickness. I've tried making the strips, nice and flexible, but have not used them anywhere yet. I've seen strips of wood bent to shape by running them over a hot soldering iron with a clean bit on some You Tube modelling videos, but never tried this myself. If you search ebay for 'model ship plank bending tool' you'll see a selection of commercially available benders of different design for large scale ship modelling. Hull is shaping up nicely. It looks nice wood you are using. Regards Alan
  2. A researcher at the Scottish Maritime Museum told me one of the ways to search for a ship is to use ' Wrecked' and 'name of ship' .Its found references that never showed up otherwise, a lot in old Australian newspapers. Thanks for the answer.
  3. The pen is like a signature Bob, some people get comfort from seeing it. I try to use a cutting mat for the background in photos so there is a scale.My wife has just got me a nice very pale blue one as I kept failing to see small black pieces against the green and black of the usual ones. Unfortunately, the web and forums are haunted by people who take the opportunity via its anonymity to slang off other people, or try and impose their way as the only way. My wife gave up batoring, I think that's how it is spelled, because of the flack she was getting. This was checking authors books for correct English and factual references. Most of the flack came from the USA, unfortunately, from people who would not accept that for example, generally, we in the UK don't eat pancakes with maple syrup for breakfast, nor swing on a seat on the porch to watch the sun go down. No research first. However, back to the thread. Some really nice miniature work on the Dreadnought. And that is another super ship Bob. What happened to the real one - 3 years is a short life.
  4. Yep. keep at it. If something doesn't break at least once, then I'm surprised. Alan
  5. Hi All, There is a link to Shipbuilder's free plans for his deck scoring device in the thread 'Width of Deck Planking' in the General Ships in Bottles discussion. Looking at some of his work, this works very well. Back to bulwarks: to finish off bulwarks when digging out the deck well, I made a scrapper from bits of brass tube and an old UK mains plug (a good source for bits of brass that are already threaded for a screw). The bit is ground from a masonry nail, which is very hard carbon steel so it holds an edge. The screw to the left of the bit with the black insulation goes through a hole in the vertical tube to allow the bit to be locked at the required depth setting, the square tube with the screw on the left side (can be moved to the right side) of the horizontal tube acts as a guide against the outside of the hull. The tool is held so the bit is vertical to the wood. It takes a bit of time, but scrapping down to the final thickness and depth gives a good result. I've also seen this done with two nails, one blunt, the other ground to a chisel shape and pushed through two holes drilled as required in a small length of rectangular wood. Best Alan
  6. Dan, " If you build a ship you really like you are more likely to finish it." Very true Cheers Alan
  7. Search Google for 'bending a square sail to yard' and select 'images'. Stacks of info that may be useful. Remember, there is nothing wrong simplifying things a bit for a small scale model. Alan
  8. Caleb, PM me your email and I'll send you the plans I drew up if you would like. Cheers Alan
  9. Gordon, 'The Oxford Companion to Ships and the Sea' by Peter Kemp has just about everything nautical. Lots of second hand copies at a good price on the web. Search the forum for books as there have been some good threads on the subject. The web itself is a good source of information. Anatomy of an Admiralty Model is worth a look as well 'The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor' is another book that can be found as PDF for download free on some sites. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ is a large well known forum with lots of articles that you can read. Should get you started Best Alan
  10. Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to seeing your SIB Alan
  11. Welcome to the forum Alan
  12. Hi Gordon, Water transparency, or turbidity, depends on any number of factors such as depth, temperature, salinity, light levels and direction, cloud cover, wind strength and direction, tide state, what the bottom is -sand, silt, mud or a mixture - sediment and plankton levels and so on. In my time at sea I only saw really clear water once and that was at the top of the Gulf of Aqaba where it was so clear that when the ship was at rest it looked as if it was hovering above the seabed, contrast that with the Yellow Sea of the coast of China near Shanghai that was so loaded with sediment that it looked like it could be walked on. When I studied Oceanography, we were taught to use a Secchi Disk, a 12 inch diameter disk, painted in alternating black and white quarters to give a good contrast. This is lowered into the sea via a rope through the centre of the disk, a weight keeps the disk horizontal, and the depth where you loose sight of it (measured by knots on the rope - the old low tech ways still work) gives the visibility at the surface. Most people tend to think of the the sea being blue so that's what is used in most art. It takes on the blue colour as the longer wavelength of red light is absorbed out the deeper you go, so that it is the blue that is returned for us to see. So I think that what the sea looks like depends on where you plan to model the SIB, eg sunny Caribbean - a nice turquoise; North Atlantic on a sunny day - a deep blue, on a cloudy, windy day - grey green, and so on. Best advice is to look at photos and choose what you like best. Getting the sea right is hard, I don't think I've managed yet, but a good representation does for what your audience will think the sea looks like. I use plasticene because it is easy to use, non toxic, usable straight away (no drying), easily modelled, is reversible, that is, I can move it around if required during bottling. All the best Alan
  13. At the EASIB 2016 convention, we had the pleasure of the company of 4 members from Japan. Their SIBs were outstanding, and some of the miniature work they showed was incredible. I've been on the lookout ever since for, in English, anything on the Japanese methods of SIBing. So far without any luck. Alan
  14. exwafoo

    Fantastic news

    I've worked with high tech radars and comm systems all my life. Still have to get my daughter to show me how somethings on my mobile phone work. Trouble is, they don't work as I expect from experience with 'big' systems. Alan
  15. Nice work. I'll have to finish mine now. I use acetone to clean the inside of a bottle. It removes PVA and CA glue if you have had a slip when gluing inside the bottle. Must have a go with resin for sea sometime. Best Alan
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