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Bottled Ship Builder


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exwafoo last won the day on March 9

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  1. I use https://smallseotools.com/image-to-text-converter/ its an online free tool. Then use google translate. Alan
  2. I live in the UK North West and although fit as a fiddle, because of certain birthdays being passed, I am classed as vulnerably, so have to be extra careful. Most people seem to be doing as they have been told and staying in and isolating, but there are the normal entitled 'nobody tells me what to do' idiots who who want their 15 mins, and would much rather believe the social media disinformation. Basically, in this age it seems our Govt cannot legislate for stupid. There are even lawyers (1) trying to put a case together to state that lockdown is illegal and take the Govt to court over it. I did the grocery shop last week and panic buying had hit. The last time I saw shelves as empty was when the ship I was in visited Maputo, capital of Mozambique, a Marxist state in '86. There was nothing. Black market was rife. However this week the shelves were 90% normal, and there are now reports of unopened food past the 'best by date' being binned. Again social media hype caused the panic. It seems to be hitting in the denser populated areas, as you would expect. The NHS is doing a superb job, and with the back up of the volunteers and the Forces Medics, plus emergency hospitals, we should see it through. Its just that all the extra kit manufacture and logistics takes a finite time to kick in. Unfortunately, as ever, the media reporters (2) would much rather sensationalise the bits of bad instead of the lots of good. (There's two occupations numbered above that any vaccine should be trialled on first in case it doesn't work) Anyway all, stay inside,and stay safe, All the best Alan
  3. Jeff, Christmas, birthdays and anniversaries come to mind Alan
  4. To smooth out the inside of drilled holes or take them up to a larger size, use small 'cutting broaches'. These look like small needles with a tiny handle on the end, but are tapered with a pentagonal cross section. You use them by inserting the chosen size into the hole and 'twirling' the broach which then gently and smoothly enlarges the hole as required. They are available in small sizes. There is a similar broach called a 'smoothing broach' which just burnishes a hole in metal, and won't work on wood. Search the web for a deal as jewellers ones can be expensive. The link shows an example of what they look like. Example of broaches. Stay safe all Alan
  5. Hi John, I tried this method successfully after seeing it on one of your CD's. I would suggest a release agent (a light rub with a candle or similar) is used as I did suffer slight problems getting the hull off the mould a couple of times. Other than that, its a great idea. Regards Alan
  6. I wonder which kit they ripped of to produce this one.
  7. Hi James, All Thanks for your comments No patent pending. Would not make any difference to a certain Far Eastern Country who would just copy and market it if they felt it would make money, like they have with so many other peoples ideas, Anyway, I've drawn it up and coupled with the phots you can build one if desired. The idea can always be adapted to suit whats available, Best for now Alan
  8. I've got a Black Pearl in a 70 cl Kraken Bottle. I'm on the umteenth attempt at getting the last backstays glued in place,but they have developed a twist thats giving me problems. I'll get there, but its taking time. There is a build log on the site somewhere that I'll finish when its done. Alan
  9. Nice work James, I've got a couple of these small Kraken bottles so following with interest. best Alan
  10. Hi All, I mentioned in the build log 'Miniature Clipper' that I had made a rigging stand from Circuit Board Stand Offs or Spacers. I've been asked to elaborate what I meant by these. So here goes. These are a plastic spacers used to securely mount electrical circuit boards in an enclosure, ensuring that they are insulated from the case (if its metal) and to allow cooling air to circulate. They cost me about £2 on the web, and came in a nice compartmentalised box. This shows the pieces included. I think the thread is M3. Its a hard plastic, probably nylon. I got these originally to make a tool with swapable heads for cleaning the inside of a bottle and applying varnish on the sea. I only wanted to make one tool to suit different sizes of bottle. It ended up as shown below. Lengths of dowel, with the top being able to slide forward to work the hinge. The hinge was made from one of the plastic pieces by cutting and shaping as required to fit a flange formed on the end of the thicker dowel. A length of brass rod was used to make the hinge pins and the connecting rod.The brush was cut from the shaft and attached to one of the smaller threaded pieces with epoxy putty. Keeping it straight allows entry into the bottle without touching the sides, then the head can be swivelled to suit by sliding the top dowel forward. I filled notches in it to give a bit of grip. With the addition of extra spacers, then all corners of a large bottle can be reached. Smaller brush heads can be attached if required. The rigging stand was made by drilling a clearance hole in a piece so it could be screwed to the vertical section forming a right angle, and another had a piece chopped out to allow a small screw to be used to fix the SIB in place. There is enough friction to allow adjustment of the SIB in a couple of directions to enable working on. Rigging Stand shown below
  11. Onni, Bruce, Thanks for the comments. I used a 50/50 mix of PVA and water on the MDF, sanded between coats to seal it, then used PVA to glue the paper down. I'm hoping the acrylic varnish will hold up. Its not as if its going to be subject to wear other than an occasional dusting. If it yellows, then I'll strip it off and do it again. Cheers Alan
  12. Hi All, Father Christmas very kindly left me a selection of Rum Miniatures. The bottles were of 4 cl volume and a flat design of approx size 4.5 cm w x 2.3 cm d x 12 cm h. Besides enjoying the contents, I thought that a first attempt at a miniature might be fun. The internal size allowed for a SIB of approx 5 cm l x 3.5 cm h. I decided on using the plans for a 3 mast clipper in Making Ships in Bottles by Leon Labistour. I scanned and shrunk the plan until I got a size to fit the bottle. Using the scan, I overlaid the sails with stitching lines and printed planking lines on the hull outline, then printed out on lightweight white airmail paper. I used a selection of different weights of line and colour coupled with some different colours of water paints to colour the sails and planking, then chose what I thought looked best. The hull was carved from a piece of Ramin square stock (its a tropical hardwood, comes in 2 metre lengths at the local DIY store) in the time honoured way of sticking the printed outline to the wood and cutting it to shape. I cut out the deck well and used 0.5 mm styrene for the bulwarks. Masking and painting with acrylics was a bit of a fiddle, but got there in the end. I’ve got some nice thin masking tape, but the adhesive was drying out so got a bit of edge creep that really shows up in the photos. Time for a shopping trip. 😁 I then cut out the printed planking and glued it in place. I’ve been following other Sibbers who do miniatures, and reading various articles in books, etc. It seems that its best to cut out the sails in one piece by the mast, then apply the yards which should be made from brush bristles to allow them to flex during launch. Cutting out with a sharp blade was no issue, but sticking the bristles down proved a bit of a problem. I used bristles off of an unused wallpaper paste brush and I think they must have a Teflon coating or similar. Superglue didn’t work well, so I tried PVA. They still popped off. I used the acrylic B72, but the acetone in this melted the plastic. In the end several coats of PVA encapsulating the yard seemed to work. Next time I’ll use natural bristles. You can see one missing in the photo (later replaced). I trimmed them to length after sticking them on. For the staysails, I realised that attaching them to the rigging on the SIB was going to be fiddly to say the least, so I threaded a length of thread (I used fly tying thread) through the printed paper. There was enough friction to hold it tight, then I glued it on to the length of the sail. Once dry, I carefully cut out the sail and added more glue. This worked, I only had to reglue a couple of sail ends. I made the masts from slivers of bamboo kebab sticks, sanded down to a reasonable thickness. Just one piece each, no attempt at any tops. Then stuck them to the back of the sails. No problems with this at all. I used plasticine for the sea and suddenly found the need for some new, thinner tools to put it in the bottle. A length of thin stainless steel rod, origin unknown, found in my garage was pressed into service. The height of the sea, hull and a fake mast were then checked for clearance with the top of the bottle as shown below. I had also by this stage drilled the appropriate holes for the rigging in the hull. I used a styrene template to get the spacing even. The masts are hinged using a length of thread from the bottom of the mast through a hole in the hull – the hinge-less method described in the book. It allows the masts to fold easily and be pulled back into place during bottling. I then started to rig the SIB. It became rapidly obvious that working at desk height was no use, so I made a small working top about 6 inches square that fitted on my vice. This allowed me to rest my hands about chin level. It also became obvious that holding the SIB by hand was inviting damage to the sails and yards so I made a small rigging jig from some plastic circuit board stand-offs. These are about £2 for a box full of different lengths of hexagonal plastic ‘bits’ that screw together as required. I fixed it to the small worktop as shown. There is enough friction in the plastic fittings to allow swivel and rotation with ease. Check fold before launch, below. Ready for launch below, only the two deck houses to be glued in place. Launched, below. A bit of plasticine turned out not to be enough to hold the bottle during glue up, so a bottle clamp had to made. Plywood cut as shown below, hinged and lined with a bit of old leather. Held under tension by a rubber band, and screwed to the small vice top. Works well. Bottle in the new clamp below.. I made the stand from a piece of MDF covered with a photocopy of an old map illustration, and then sprayed with acrylic varnish. The supports are thin plywood stained with a wood scratch repair felt tip pen. Self adhesive felt pads underneath. There was one other thing that I tried that doesn’t really show on the photos. The external finish on the bottle was ‘lumpy’, not really unexpected considering their source. Before I retired I used to work with a couple of guys who were into model aircraft kit builds. They produced some really nice work. I remembered them bemoaning the fact that a certain brand of acrylic floor polish was no longer obtainable as they used it to dip the cockpit canopies in before assembly which apparently improved the clarity wonderfully. So I put the bottle on a stick and sprayed it with a couple of coats of acrylic varnish. It improved the finish and clarity quite well. Worth doing. The finished SIB below. Still thinking about a Turks Head.
  13. You could always position them so they are just about to enter or leave the sea., and 'foam' the sea to suit. Would save any worry about pushing into the sea medium. Alan
  14. Bluenoser, 1/72 scale, ie 1 inch to 6 feet. The SIB will be about 6 inches long, a small Drakar, or 'Dragon Ship'. The figures are as shown. An internet search will show suppliers. I decided to buy them as I'm not confident of carving any. The planned bottle is a 2½ litre cider bottle that gives enough height for the mast. Regards Alan PS: Oars, shields, and sea chests (used for sitting on) are also in the box. The figures comprise rowers, a helmsman, and others in various poses for working ship.
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