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Bottled Ship Builder

exwafoo

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exwafoo last won the day on August 19

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  1. Thanks for your comments. Much appreciated. There was a pub lunch involved in the handover and a nice donation for the Royal National Lifeboat Institution. In the UK, the coastal lifeboats are manned by RNLI volunteers, and the RNLI itself is supported by public donations, etc. So, all for an excellent cause. Best Alan
  2. A friend asked me to make a SIB of a boat that is owned by one of their friends. The boat is a Colvic Watson 28 ft as shown in Figs 1 and 2. Figure 1: The drawings Figure 2: the actual boat I had a few other photos to work from as well. I drew up some plans, shown in figure 3. Figure 3: Working plans The hull block was made and shaping started, shown in Figs 4 & 5 Figure 4: Hull block Figure 5: Shaping Started Figure 6: Basic outline. The hull is split just off centre to port and has an upper, mid (from styrene) and a lower. The aim is to give sharp horizontal paint lines for the boot topping, Figure 7: Cabin made, under-coated and the planking. I made the planking from watercolour paper, printed on the PC with different weights of line thickness and shade. I used watercolour paint to try different shades of ‘wood’ colour, then picked the one that looked best at this scale. Figure 9: Top-coated The lower hull sections were painted separately, royal blue for the boot topping and red oxide for below the waterline. Figure 8: Sea started. The sea was made from plasticine, with a description of the SIB and makers name label under it. Figure 10: Starting the woodwork and masts. I used a red hardwood veneer for the woodwork, Small pieces were reinforced with thin CA glue before cutting and sanding to shape. Once attached to the SIB I used diluted clear acrylic varnish on them. The masts were made from brass tube and rods. This SIB had the luxury of actually having a large hinge at the foot of the mainmast. The main and mizzen sails are of the modern variety that are slotted into rails on the mast and are furled on a rotating assembly on the boom. The foresail is furled around a rotating steel forestay. Cutting the slots in the tubing was ‘fun’. I used a small photo-etched saw from http://www.radubstore.com. Took a while but it worked, Figure 11: Main mast Figure 12: Most of the woodwork fitted Figure 13: Masts and sails I used some type of translucent parchment that my wife gave me for the sails. Stitching was simulated using a black pencil, and they were coloured with watercolour, This allowed them to retain the translucent effect, They were a bit waxy, and I had a bit of trouble getting them to stay stuck in the slots on the masts. They held a good shape though. Figure 14: Rigging Underway I used a silver coloured thread for the rigging to simulate the stainless steel on the real boat. The railings were made from brass rod and painted chrome. Figure 15: Almost done. Windows ‘fitted’ I used DIY water slide decals for the windows and name. This is the first time I’ve tried this and have been pleased with the result. A pack of 5 A4 sheets of decal material cost about £5 and I’ve used half of on sheet. First I printed a couple of different sizes and colours on paper for trialing next to the SIB for size and effect. Then printed out 3 sets of the chosen ones on my ink jet, to allow for slip ups. When dry, a couple of light coats of clear acrylic varnish was sprayed over them. Once dry, the decals are cut out, placed in a saucer of warm water and when they float off of the backing are applied using a wet paintbrush and very gentle use of tweezers, left to dry then varnished over to seal and protect them. They went on very nicely first attempt. Figure 16: Ready for bottling Figure 17: In the bottle. By special request, the lighthouse is an attempt at Walney Island Lighthouse at the north end of Morecambe Bay where the owner sails to sometimes. Regards to all Alan
  3. Bruce, Is there a local furniture/antique restorer that could perhaps give you a clue on the glue type? Good work Alan
  4. Sometimes instructions for knots such as a Turks head are given like this when following the cord around to get the required number of 'repeats'. Maybe something to do with dressing the bottle? Some good detective work here. Alan
  5. In one of today's papers. Thought it may be of interest Article Alan
  6. Nice work. Good luck with your eyes. Mine are going downhill as well. A while yet before any surgery, but can only work in short bursts. Best Alan
  7. "Broke the bottle" - been there and its not a nice feeling. Superb recovery though and the bottle looks good. I've done a couple SIBs with the masts going in separately. (one at present which I'll upload in the near future). First attempt ended in the bottle break. For the second attempt I put the masts in first placing the bottoms in holes drilled in a piece of wood at the back of the bottle pressed into the sea (Plasticine - can be reshaped afterwards). This requires the threads to have enough length for working. It also meant that they were not doubled up passing through the neck. Then put the hull in drawing up slack as I went. I also used a control thread from the bottom of the masts through the hull to help pull them into place once the hull was in. This thread also has the effect of helping stop the bottom of the mast looping around others and if it does its easier to untangle. The other thing I do with threads is follow a tip I picked up from a book, I can't remember who by, where I draw a deck outline on a piece of card and then stab a pin hole through where the control thread goes through the deck. I then feed the free ends of the control threads through their respective holes. It keeps them neat, untangled, on the SIB side at least, and I don't have to search for the one I wish to adjust. The card is fixed to a suitable point in front of the bottle when launching. I've also found that cutting the threads is trickier than it sounds. Has anyone out there actually built and used the hot wire thread cutter that there are plans for in various SIB books and magazines? It would be interesting to know. Best Alan
  8. Jeff, At least you found it. A future archaeologist is going to have a real head scratcher when my work area is dug up. A black hole has nothing on my floors. Cheers Alan
  9. Many thanks John. Much appreciated. I'll certainly think about having a go with this technique. Keeping the lines in order during launching and holding the SIB once inside have given me issues in the past. Best regards Alan
  10. Nice one Jeff. Some good stuff in there. Alan
  11. Hi John, Lovely SIB. Any chance of describing the holding stick you mentioned. It sounds like it could be a useful technique Best Alan.
  12. Nice job. I won one of these kits at convention. Got the hull done, I found this messy to glue up as the glue mixed with the soot lefet over from the laser cut pieces. I am seriously considering making a replacement set of masts and spars, as I think the flat photo etch ones will look somewhat strange. Its on hold at the moment while I do other things. I'll load some phots when done. Alan
  13. Hi Bluenoser, I have put channels and shrouds on in the bottle. The channels had two locating lugs (small dowels) corresponding to holes in the hull. The shrouds were already attached to the mast. I got them all but one assembled in the bottle. That one is still giving me trouble after several attempts because the backstays on it twisted and spring it round through 180 degrees. I'll get there, but life would have been easier if I had attached control threads to the lugs, through the holes and out the bottom of the hull to pull it into place. Lesson learned for next time. Best Alan
  14. Good for you taking on the challenge. I wouldn't have gone anywhere near it. Too much fragile glass in there to cause more damage. Well done Alan
  15. Bruce, Have a look at the 'Rigging Wiget' PDF attachment I uploaded in the Bermuda Sloop Build. Its the method I use and gives good consistent results. Al
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