Jump to content
Bottled Ship Builder

Landlubber Mike

Members
  • Content Count

    83
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by Landlubber Mike

  1. Congratulations! Fantastic SIB!
  2. Amazing work! And very cool bottle!
  3. Thanks John - that makes sense. Not sure why I didn't think of that ?
  4. I happened to come upon this old picture of what looks to be the Challenge. Interestingly, it seems to have a slightly different shape and color design than the plans which I found in the Chapelle and Lazlo books. Challenge - photo from stern in harbor.jp2
  5. Wow, it's been two years since I last posted. Between work, kids and working on my larger models, time has really flown. So when I dusted the Challenge off, I decided I wasn't happy with the hull. The shape was a little boxy, and when adding the decks, I realized I didn't carve the hull deep enough so my bulwarks were non-existent. I also thought that the red stripe (which I made from redheart) was a bit out of scale. After sleeping on it, I decided to redo the hull... It took a few weeks, but I like the results. I set up a second blank to do two at once and have the option of just picking the best one and use the other for practice or trying out techniques (or bottling both), but the first one came out pretty nicely so I might just stick with it.
  6. That was cool - interesting techniques with the rubber, Q-tip approach to hingeless masts, etc. Thanks for sharing!
  7. Looks really good Onni. For the planking and bulwarks, did you just use a single piece of styrene per side? I thought about taking a similar approach with my current build, but I was worried that I wouldn't be able to get the piece to lay flat against the hull with all the compound curves.
  8. Thanks Igor, I was thinking that's what you meant. At least on my 1:64 scale Charles Morgan build, I think those upright pieces are called "stanchions." I'm amazed that you are able to add actual construction details at such a small scale!
  9. Hi Igor thanks so much for that explanation. It sounds like you glue the bottom edge of the 0.5mm plank to the top of the hull? How do you ensure it keeps the curve without using pins along the edges of the curve? Or are you saying as you plank the hull, you let the top planks extend above the hull to form the bulwarks? Also, can you explain what you mean by “racks”? It’s probably a translation but I’m not sure I understand what you mean. Thanks so much!
  10. Great work Daniel, thanks for putting together this tutorial. It's nice to follow along "in real time" to see the steps in action. One question - I see how you carved the lower hull from the deck level down. For the bulwarks, do you just glue the strip on top of the lower hull/deck? Or do you glue it to the side of the hull, and then sand it at the connection so that it feathers into the lower hull? I decided to redo my Challenge because the bulwarks ended up being non-existent. I carved a second hull, this time carving the upper hull with the bulwarks in one piece. On my first attempt, I used 0.4mm plywood and feathered it in. The problem I found was that in trying to glue it, being so thin the plywood almost got like wet paper and lost integrity. I wasn't sure about creating the bulwarks by gluing a strip directly on top of the lower hull, but that seems to work out really nicely.
  11. Amazing Igor - the fish and shark look amazing, and the Old Man came out incredible. Very nice job!
  12. Agreed - slight bias here towards sails, especially if you put sea in the bottle. Otherwise, looks really nice without sails!
  13. Wow, such amazing detail at such a small scale! Very nice Igor!
  14. I've said this before, and can't say it enough - Igor, you are a true master! Thank you for sharing this with us!
  15. Beautiful work John. I too love the use of natural woods, and try to "paint with wood" as much as possible on my larger scale models. I haven't worked with apple yet, but have heard similar experiences as to workability. I've used maple before and really like it - a very hard wood with great workability. After seeing your deck houses though, I now feel like the ones I started working on are inferior and might have to try to build them up as you have (though mine are smaller scale, and I think after looking at the size, I'm not sure that I can replicate your work). Yours are absolutely fantastic!
  16. I built the Amati Hannah SIB a couple of years ago (I might have a log or at least a picture on here). It's a nice kit, though I wouldn't spend full price. I think I spent $30 off eBay for it. It was a nice introduction to the hobby. I did not like the photo etched parts - having masts and spars and the bowsprit that thin led to a lot of problems aside from scale. The bowsprit snapped a couple of times for me, which was a hassle. I was worried in inserting the ship into the bottle that the main mast would snap as well, but it hung in there. Overall though, I think the kits aren't a bad introduction. Though, if you have the materials and one of the many books out there, you can certainly jump right into a scratch build. In many ways, it seems easier than to work within the confines of a kit. Much different from working on one of the bigger scale models.
  17. David, thanks very much for that - that's really a helpful explanation. Makes a lot of sense, thank you! Thanks for the suggestion on my model. That could work as well. I haven't made the channels yet, but at the scale I'm working, I'm a bit worried that they might be too thin to peg. I'll have to check it out and think a little more on it, but that could certainly work. Sorry to distract things on your log. Looking forward to your final posts!
  18. Wow, really great work, thank you for sharing! Can I ask what is probably a dumb question? For the shrouds, I see that you run the lines long to help get a little tension in them. Where they connect to the hull at the channels, where do the lines run? Do they run through the hull? And where do they get cut off? I've always been a little unsure whether lines run through the hull and out the bottom (or the bow), how that works with a split hull, and how that works if you are going to add sea to the bottle. I'm working on a simpler schooner but also would like to install the masts separately rather than use a hinge. Wanted to prepare the shrouds like you have, but rather than running the lines fixed on top and open at the bottom, because I'm using a standing bottle and inserting from the top, I'm thinking of fixing the shrouds at the channel, then running the line through the masts and gluing/cutting them off there. Seems much simpler, especially if I add sea to the bottle.
  19. Very nice, and great background story behind it!
  20. Very nice! Lot of character to it!
  21. Really nicely done! Love your first two models too!
  22. Nice work Daniel - beautiful!
  23. Landlubber Mike

    DRAGEN

    Nice work! Glad you were able to move on with the second bottle
  24. Beautiful work Alan. It's funny, I got a book on styrene modeling the other day and was thinking that it might be a good material for SIBs. Then today I catch up on everything I've missed the past few months and your Black Pearl uses it, and uses it very nicely. Thanks for sharing all the tips with us.
  25. Really nice work. Love the deck houses!
×
×
  • Create New...