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Bottled Ship Builder


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Shipbuilder last won the day on November 1

Shipbuilder had the most liked content!

About Shipbuilder

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    Chief Officer

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    Miniature shipmodelling, vintage radio construction, writing,maritime history (Merchant Navy).

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  1. Small steel barquentine

    Thanks Alan, My wife painted the sea yesterday. Bob
  2. Small steel barquentine

    Thanks, It took just under 50 hours to build, spread out over four months. But I only worked on it for 39 days of that time. That included making the display case and carrying case. Bob
  3. Small steel barquentine

    Thanks, finally fitted in the sea - Bob
  4. Small steel barquentine. 20 feet to 1 inch. White-hulled ships are not very photogenic. Bob
  5. Roberts Situation

    I didn't say I was not interested in ships in bottles because I am - I just do not build them myself! I was very interested in Dave Fellingham's project, but he has disappeared, I am very interested in Chasseur's Preussen as well. I am here because I was asked to join. I believe I have contruibuted quite a lot of information that is relevant to building ships in bottles, because in or out of bottles, they are still miniatures. But if nothing much is going on, it tends to make me lose interest! Bob
  6. MOVED from - RMS St Helena ex Northland Prince

    I know, but it was not me that made it go off topic. It has taken long enough for anyone to notice! Bob
  7. MOVED from - RMS St Helena ex Northland Prince

    The problem I have is that I am not a ship in bottle builder - never have been! As not much is going on, there is little to attract me here. I am not talking about my type of model - the whole site has gone pretty quiet. Bob
  8. MOVED from - RMS St Helena ex Northland Prince

    I have had a Facebook group for over a year now, and find it a very positive experience! It is called Merchant Ships in Miniature, and now has a membership of 170, from all over the world There is good participation, with a number of builds of various types of merchant ships progressing very well, with lots of comments and discussion. This has quite surprised me, as merchant ship models have never been very popular. A bye-product of this is that it brings in a steady income of between 60 and 120 pounds per month from my small practicums. Neither do I mind about members offering models or books etc for sale, as it all furthers the hobby. The biggest killer of forums, as far as I can see, is when members stop posting. Living in a model shipbuilders backwater has caused me to lose a great deal of interest, but Facebook has revived me considerably, although I am not a member of Twitter and don't intend to become one! I can really recommend Bottled Shipbuilder transferring to Facebook with their own SIB Group. It is easy enough to ban undesirables, and even prevent them from communicating with you, but I have never needed to do that with any group members! Bob
  9. MOVED from - RMS St Helena ex Northland Prince

    How long is this one scheduled to last? I assume it is OK until the renewal date. Will it just disapear, or remain, but locked? Bob
  10. MOVED from - RMS St Helena ex Northland Prince

    It is easy enough to set up your own group on Facebook, and it is free of charge. You have the facitity to ban or block unwanted members as well, so no trouble with SPAM. I was banned by the "great dictator" Chuck from Model Ship World, several years ago for having the audacity to compain about his aggressive moderating. He even banned me from MSW on Facebook for the simple act of posting some model ship images in the group. My Facebook group is thriving "Merchant Ships in Miniature," with about 160 members at the moment, many of them active ship modellers. Bob
  11. MOVED from - RMS St Helena ex Northland Prince

    It is a pity that interest seems to have died away. Maybe it would be better for you to develop your group on Facebook, as that is free and has a much larger audience, and it does appear to have a good following. Bob
  12. RMS St Helena ex Northland Prince

    Thanks, my favourite ship, but not a great reponse to all that work I put in drawing up the plans, considering how many requests I got to produce them in the first place! Bob
  13. This thirty-page download has been written following requests for plans and photographs of the RMS St. Helena from a number of ship model builders, ex crew members, and passengers who sailed in the ship during her time on the UK – St. Helena – Cape Town between the years 1978 and 1989. The download has 2,398 words, 52 illustrations, including 9 plans. During my time in the vessel, from 1979 to 1989, I took a large number of photographs, and took copious notes that enabled me to draw up an authentic set of plans for the ship. It is only concerned with the ship herself, and does not contain any reference to the many adventures that we had over those eventful years, or life aboard! It contains profile, general arrangement deck plans and a lines plan for the hull. By clicking the link, you can read the synopsis. Then, if you wish to purchase a download, a Paypal button for £2.99 is provided. http://payhip.com/b/hmx2
  14. What else do you model besides SIBs?

    I also do a fair amount of plan drawing. Merchant ships only, so they are not very popular amongst model shipbuilders. Bob
  15. What else do you model besides SIBs?

    Semi Automatic "Bug" Morse Key Feeling like a change from ship models, a few days ago, I decided to try and build a semi-automatic bug key. This type of morse key was first developed in the United States. Conventional morse keys move up and down, and both dots and dashes have to be made manually. When I first went into passenger liners as a junior radio officer in 1965, I found it very hard going sending large numbers of messages, often containing hundreds of words. My wrist was quickly in danger of seizing up, so I obtained a cheap Japanese bug key in Cape Town. The bug key works horizontally, and the side of the palm can be rested on the desk. Pushing the paddle to the right with the thumb, produces a string of dots by vibrating a piece of weighted steel spring with electrical contacts fitted. Pushing it to the left with the forefinger, the dashes have to be made individually. I found this a great help, and was soon able to send for considerable lengths of time without getting tired. In the next twelve years, I got through two Japanese bug keys, the first being accidentally dropped by the third radio officer when it was only a few weeks old. That broke the paddle arm off, and I had to effect a temporary repair until I could replace it again in Cape Town. Despite being quite cheap, I had no complaints about the Japanese keys, they were really good. But I had heard that the American Vibroplex keys were the best of the best. Eventually, I was able to purchase on in Houston, Texas, for about £50. I used that one regularly from 1977 until leaving the sea in late 1992, and still have it today. The key illustrated is purely my own design based on trial and error, and it took almost a week to get it working correctly. I have compared it with my Vibroplex, and although I am a bit "rusty" at morse after 25 years, can still produce perfectly readable code, and cannot tell any difference in handling between mine and the Vibroplex, I incorporated small ball races for the top and bottom bearings that gave a very smooth action. The spring steel is a piece of a junior hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off. The vertical pillars are all old rifle shells cut off to the correct length, and bolted to the acrylic base via holes drilled through ends. The dent caused by the firing pins was a great guide for the drill. The open tops were fitted with home-made caps made from brass, with a fancy brass bolt in the top for purely aesthetic reasons. Solving the spring problem was beyond me, as I could nor find any springs small enough, or of the correct strength. I got round this by using powerful neodymium magnets instead of springs, and they work really smoothly. The tension can be easily adjusted by moving the magnets further apart, or closer together. Neither could I get the dot contacts correct, so I used a small magnetic reed switch. It is actuated by a magnet fixed the vibrating arm. The speed of the dots can be adjusted by moving the brass weight along the vibrating arm. The closer it is moved to the front of the key, the faster the dots. Most of the construction is in brass. The base and paddle are acrylic sheet and the finger knob is a small "button knob" normaly used for glass cabinets. Bob