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Bottled Ship Builder

JerseyCity Frankie

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JerseyCity Frankie last won the day on September 18

JerseyCity Frankie had the most liked content!

About JerseyCity Frankie

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    Third Officer

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    Www.frankhanavan.com

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    New York City area

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  1. JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    Paint. I’m using Vallejo acrylics and I’m happy with this product. You will notice I paint then paint again, then I add more physical elements and then paint the same surface again, rather than just paint everything once at the end. In my view the paint should be open and ready whenever you’re at work on the model so you can add paint as you go. Acrylic paints make this easier since there’s no solvents or long drying time. current reasearch on actual paint from HMS Victory has recently given us a more true picture of the “yellow” color of the Nelson Checker: it’s actually pink. It shocked everyone at the time and purist people were freaking out. But actually the color is more akin to Terracotta. So I tried to reflect that in my “yellow” color. But mine still looks mostly yellow. The “black” stripes are dark grey, not black. This way when I paint on the gunports in actual black, the illusion of an open port is achieved. Eight of the gunports, those at the waist, really ARE open, the rest are painted squares. These photos show my use of epoxy on the quarter galleries to fake glass windows. I give the effort a six out of ten. But a lot esier than trying to build the galleries from scratch out of wood plastic or putty. They are gloppy but I’m reasonably happy with them.
  2. JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    Bulwarks. I laminate a red and a mustard (mustard?) colored pieces of colored paper to represent the inner and outer colors of the bulwarks. Then I cut a rabbit or notch or shelf-whatever- for it to fit snub against the hull. The gap is filled with modeling paste. for the 74, the upper profile of the bulwark is odd, it takes a weird downward slope from the Hances to the Gangways, with fancy curves. And also I had to cut out a bunch of gunports. But, once I got them glued on with Tightbond white glue, I felt happy. Suddenly it looks like a going concern.
  3. JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    Carved the hull, reasonably happy with it? It’s 4 1/4” or 11cm long.my usual method is to use a wood hull then glue bulwarks on made of colored paper. In fact all the details, all the deck furniture is laminated colored paper. my new wrinkle on this project was to make stairs from paper laminated to form each step. I alternated two similar colors to make each step visually distinct from the next but I’m not sure it was necessary. My plan for the quarter galleries is to use two-part transparent epoxy, in a technique I once used many years ago. I cut deep grooves at the stern to represent the upper and middle decks and painted their interiors black. In the next step I will mix the epoxy, allow it to almost set then apply it in lumps on either side of the stern and deep into the cut grooves. Being almost stiff the globs will stand out from the hull when they harden. Being transparent the epoxy can then have window framing painted over it. Voila: glazed windows.
  4. JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    The hull I’ve carved from some species of wood that smells a LOT like cedar. Maybe it IS cedar? I had a block lying around. Nice tight grain. Smells good. Masts. I’ve grown impatient with wood for masts in SIBs. To get the wood to scale you wind up with some VERY fragile spars. I got sick of snapping them and now use brass rod and piano wire. This necessitates soldering the components and I’m the WORST at soldering. But the metal masts NEVER break and I can drill through them. You’ll notice a second bottle prepped. I’m building two SIBs at once but this build lib focuses only on the 74.
  5. JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    The base is plywood and covered crudely in fake gold leaf. I got the fake leaf on eBay, very inexpensive. I’ve never used the real stuff but seen it done on YouTube videos. Like the real stuff, the fake stuff is the most fragile insubstantial material you can imagine, a puff of air rips up the tiny 2” square sheets. In this casrpe I painted cheap white glue over the brown painted plywood and just washed pieces of leaf over the glue, not trying to keep the sheets intact. The mottled speckled gold flecks look great. The blue sea is plasticine. I mixed up a “sea” color and melted it in a double boiler then poured it into the bottle, a first for me. In the past I inserted ropes of room temperature clay in then mashed them down with a crooked stick. Melted, I was able to get perfect adhesion. I used a bent piece of cardboard as a trough for the pour. Let it cool. Then, to get the sea to look more convincing, I tossed into the bottle some small bits of lighter greener blue clay, and a bit of grey, these I smeared into the iriginal sea to give the surface a choppy look. The some pure white clay in very small bits were also mashed and smeared. The result is much better than a single monotonous color.
  6. JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    I haven’t done a SIB in a year or more so it’s time. But what to build? Visiting my sister in Mystic Connecticut we stoped in the adjacent town of Stonington. It just so happened to be the anniversary of a naval bombardment the town had suffered under the British in 1814. When I read on an historic plaque in town that the English commander was Captain Hardy, THE captain Hardy of Trafalgar and Victory and Nelson, “Kiss me, Hardy, THAT Hardy, I knew I wanted to build HMS Ramillies, Hardy’s command. Here’s background on the battle: https://www.stoningtonhistory.org/exhibits/battle-of-stonington/ Looking at my ship books I was pleased to discover I already had a very good drawing of HMS Theseus, a sister ship, in the book Nelson’s Ships by Peter Goodwin. At a farmers market in Manhattan a guy was selling his Maple Syrup in these jugs that looked PERFECT. Smaller than a gallon but big enough for a more detailed model. When I explained why I was holding his bottles sideways and knitting my brows, the guy GAVE ME a free empty bottle. So I’m Putting in a plug for http://deepmountainmaple.com/ on their website they list the fancy restaurants in New York that use their syrup and it’s a long list! So it must be good. I usually look at building SIBs by starting with the bottle and THEN laying plans for the ship, rather than imagine a ship then search for the appropriate bottle. It’s easier that way. But in this case I think the bottle I had is just right.
  7. Found this on Facebook. I time capsule of 1977.
  8. JerseyCity Frankie

    Charles W Morgan

    Jesse I was able to grip the bow of each whaleboat with long tweezers and get them into position. First I put a generous glob of Weldbond brand white glue onto the bulwarks of the ship itself where I wanted the boat. I made each boat with Davits attached, a pair of wires pierce the hulls from above at bow and stern and bend up and over the side then cut off at a point above the keel of each whaleboat so the boat and davits are one unit. When the Weldbond has had a chance to get tacky I plop the boat right into it and the boats all were grabbed by the glue on the first go with little trouble.
  9. JerseyCity Frankie

    Charles W Morgan

    Finished ! Not shown were the whaleboats which were inserted and glued on after the ship was put inside, the bottle neck was not wide enough for them to go in already attached.
  10. JerseyCity Frankie

    Charles W Morgan

  11. JerseyCity Frankie

    Charles W Morgan

    I need fairleads at the yard arms for the running rigging. I use fine wire middled then an eye is formed at the center by twisting it around a needle so I wind up with an eye with two long legs. I made the yards out of brass rod then I twisted the wire around the yards leaving eyes at each yardarm. Painted it white( "real" white as in actual practice, giving a contrast between the weathered white of the sails as mentioned above). To each side of my cut out paper sails I glue a length of fly tying thread. These are going to be the Braces of the yards below so they are long enough to exit the bottle. At the heads of the sails I leave these lines longer and after I glue the sail to the yard I take these longer ends up around the yard then back down to the sail and glue them along the leach and this bonds the sail to the yard in a way that helps to insure it won't pull away later. I tie a "hailyard" at the center of each yard with an overhand knot leaving two legs long enough for me to tie around the mast and this is how I attach the yards. So let's take the topsail: I tie the yard to the mast,put a drop of glue on the knot and cut the ends after the glue is dried. I take the two long pieces of fly tying thread which were glued along each leach of the square sails and lead them through the wire eyes on the yard arms of the course yard below and then from there on down and through holes bored through the hull and from there out the neck of the bottle. Now the yards can cockbill on the masts to get through the neck of the bottle, and when in position I can square the yards up again by adjusting the braces,which are also acting as sheets on the sails.
  12. JerseyCity Frankie

    Charles W Morgan

    I have STRONG OPINIONS about every aspect of canvas sails as depicted on models, I'm like a broken record on the subject. First and foremost: I ALWAYS include them. Second, I NEVER leave them pure white. Sure, on real ships they are "white" in a general sense but in practical terms they are never really pure white. They start life as a pleasant cream color. A white sheet of paper laying on raw canvas will show the contrast between the two examples of "white" materials. As a ship goes through its sailing life, the sails only get more worn and dirty. They are never cleaned, nobody is laundering sails on a big sailing vessel. After just a few months of use a sail darkens and takes on a grey tone. so I make my sails of paper that I have stained to give it a more authentic grey weathered tone.
  13. JerseyCity Frankie

    Charles W Morgan

    Working pretty fast on this project, it's a Christmas present for my brother in law. I'm cutting some corners since I'm out of time. For instance the real Morgan has split topsails and royals, but I'm just going to have full size topsails and only go as high as the t'galants. im disappointed in the heavy thread I used for the shrouds, its too springy. It's man made fiber and too tightly laid to be able to turn sharp corners. I tied it with overhand knots over the masthead so each portion would have a port and starboard leg. But as the material exits the knot horizontally on each side, it does not want to bend sharply at that point to make it down to deck level. You can see in the photos it's bowed out, particularly on the mizzenmast. Lesson learned.
  14. JerseyCity Frankie

    Charles W Morgan

    Working pretty fast on this project, it's a Christmas present for my brother in law.
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