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Bottled Ship Builder


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MickyK last won the day on May 25

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  1. Well done, Rob! That's an interesting bottle you have. It seems to have a very thick base, or is that just the way the photos show it? Cheers Mick
  2. Hi All. I hope everyone is well, and getting over this Covid thing. I've been playing with the ratlines. With no success! I tried several jigs, copied or adapted from others on this forum, but I couldn't get the ratlines to cut flat with the shrouds, using nail trimmers, knives ....., and they looked terrible. So I have decided to go without them. Sometimes, less is more! I've also changed my gluing technique. I use thin CA to initially fix things in place, a bit like tack welding, then use ZAP thick CA to hold it all permanently in place. The thick might take a while to set and go dry, but I don't want anything coming adrift at the worse possible moment! The photo shows the main mast lower shrouds, still waiting for the glue to go off, and there are also the mizzen shrouds, all glued up, and pushed out of the way for the moment. They are permanently attached to the chains(?) , and a thread goes through the caps, and eventually out the bottle neck. If I pull it tight, the shrouds come up nice and taut. Sounds like a good plan "A"!! A bit more to do. Cheers, Mick
  3. MickyK


    Hi All, I'll be needing some pad-eyes for my Endeavour. Pad-Eyes on a full size boat are small(ish) loop of steel, often mounted on the deck, and strengthened under the deck with a pad of steel or wood. to give it strength. Hence the name. I made them using a standard mast loop, then twisted the two ends together, taped them separately to the mat with tape, and applied CA glue to the twisted section, and left them to dry. After it is dry, the twisted tail it cut about 5 or 6mm long. Photos will explain the system much better! The first photo is the clamp I use, with the tails of the thread taped down, and the clamp pulled gently to keep tension on the twisted thread. I found the easiest way to twist them together was to hold the threads, and turn the clamp around 8 or 10 times. The second and third are the pad-eye, one next to a ruler, and the other glued into a 0.5mm hole drilled into a bit of scrap timber, just if see if it works! Hope this might be of some use to someone out there. Cheers, and keep safe. Mick
  4. Hi Lubber, The detail on your ship is incredible, I love it! And, at the end of the day, it's your ship, and if it differs from the original, just say that it went in for a re-fit when you became Captain! Cheers Mick
  5. Hi All. A bit more progress! The Main and Mizzen are now on deck, at the moment just sitting there. I think I'll do the lower shrouds at a later date, mainly so they don't get damaged, and more importantly, they don't get tangled! I've put the sheets on the gaff sail, and they are becoming a nightmare, so those bits and pieces of thread which will end up hanging out of the bottle come launching time will be sorted out later. Still a bit more to do! Cheers, and stay safe. Mick
  6. Hi All, I've not done a lot of SIB'ing, but I thought that waxed thread and glue, CA or otherwise, would be incompatible. At the moment I'm using un-waxed Uni thread, (fly tying thread), but as Jeff commented, waxed thread would run through holes and blocks easier. So can waxed thread be glued successfully? Thanks Mick.
  7. That's awesome! By the way, what is Kraken? Cheers Mick
  8. Hi All, I'm down-under, and it's happening here as well. There seem to be "pockets" of contagion around Sydney, and most of them seem to have been instigated by people that had traveled into Aust from overseas. Now, like everywhere, there are travel bans in place, much tighter screening at airports, no large gatherings of people, most of our major sporting events either behind closed doors, or cancelled for the foreseeable future. The 3 deaths, so far, have been the elderly, living in nursing homes. My particular "self-isolation" is because I don't have much of a social life!! You may have seen on the TV news about our shortage of toilet paper, no-one has been able to explain "why toilet paper", I can under stand non-perishable food stuffs etc. So I hope everybody stays well, and it is a very good excuse to get on with your hobbies. Cheers Mick
  9. Hi All. I've done the hand-rails,(Gunnels?, Capping rails?, Bannisters?, Not sure of the correct terminology.) Made from polyester thread, wiped with super-glue (CA), then wiped with a rag. Makes the thread quite rigid. Then glued with CA. The canons aren't loaded yet, but they are made from styrene. Cheers Mick
  10. Thanks James, The deck is planked with Light Ash veneer, left over from another project, with a couple of coats of clear, satin stain. The hull is planked with paper, given a mottley stain, and glued on with PVA. And the bulwarks are styrene. It only took 5 or 6 attempt to get them to fit, what with the sheer-line and the chain plates, (chains, channels??). Cheers Mick
  11. Hi, That's looking really good. Cheers, Mick
  12. Hi All. Above the water-line is planked, the bulwarks are on, I wanted to plank below the water line, but it wouldn't happen! So it's painted, with "white stuff". The gunwales (capping rails?)are next, followed by the transom, and then the deck furniture, cannons, wheel, capstan, jolly-boat,anchors,other stuff. And masts etc. The list goes on and on.... Cheers Mick
  13. Hi Bruce, It's looking good! Have you also thought of using thick copper wire, or thin copper or brass rod for the oars? It's a bit more malleable than steel. Just a thought. Cheers. Mick
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