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Bottled Ship Builder

John Fox III

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Everything posted by John Fox III

  1. Great work Igor! Fascinating watching your development of Captain Jack Sparrow! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  2. Thanks James! I always aim high, only hope it looks as nice once it's collapsed, shoved into the light bulb and erected inside! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  3. Thanks! Who else am I going to share it with? <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  4. Greetings Niallmohr, Look around and you will find there is no such thing as a correct way to bottle a ship, each builder experiments with the different things we see and hear about and eventually find what works best for us. Good luck on your journey! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  5. Thanks Bernard! I appreciate your comment old friend!
  6. Thanks Igor! It is a lot of fun, if a bit frustrating at times. One thing I keep in mind at all times is nothing cannot be repeated if I make a mistake or break something.
  7. Thanks Omni! Forgot to mention the models are at the scale of 1:300.
  8. The first of the two James Miller models is finally completed. Still have to finish up the light bulb stand and the stand to hold the model on the bottom of the bulb. There is a second model, at present it is at the stage of ready to start mounting the masts. The second is a static display model, so in some ways it easier to rig.
  9. Truly remarkable models on display! Thanks for sharing! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  10. Greetings All, I now have the fore mast added to the ship in light bulb model of James Miller. All the fore stays, shrouds and backstays have been added, as well as all the headsails and all their rigging. The two jib sails are static, They do not move with the stays they are attached to, they are attached by small open loops so that the stay can move through the sail, since the stays for those sails runs through the jib and martingale spike, then into the hull and is the operating end of these lines. The fore sail does move with the stays, as in this case they are double, one on each side of the bowsprit, running through the bees and back into the hull, these are also the operating ends of the stays.I learned a lesson with the foremast, in that I added all the running rigging before adding the shrouds and ratlines, which was a mistake as it made adding the shrouds much more difficult with all the running rigging lines being so light in color they kept getting accidentally tied into the shrouds. The cabin and hatch are also permanently attached now. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  11. Thanks Igor! I do try! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  12. Thanks Bernard! It was definitely very boring, took about four to five hours to make the chain, about six inches, for each model. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  13. Greetings All, Today I share the latest work on the James Miller models. I have completed adding the bobstays, jib boom shrouds and jib boom backstays to both models. The bobstays and shrouds are made from miniature rope, made on a mini rope walk I built a year or so ago, using 3 pieces of 8/0 fly tying thread. The backstays are fake miniature chain, made from 8/0 fly tying thread tied around a #80 drill bit with double overhand knots. To keep the "chain" fairly straight I tied a second piece of thread to the first loop tied, after removing the drill bit from the hole in an 9" long piece of wood, then passing this second thread through a rubber band tightly wrapped around the far end of the wood. Before each new double knot was added, the second line was pulled slightly, so that as the first knot was tied to the next knot it would pull the second line, keeping the knots tied opposite each other to keep the chain straight. As each double knot was tied, the bit was removed from the hole in the wood, and the whole thing repeated endlessly. Second photo shows the completed forecastle area, with everything permanently in place. I also wanted to share that I found some really nice, super fine, fly tying thread. It is labeled and sold as 20 DEN line, and is finer than a human hair. I've used 8/0, 10/0 and 12/0 threads, but they are nearly identical in overall size, but this 20 DEN stuff is a lot smaller/thinner. According to the info at the J. Stockard fly tying company online this line is equivalent to 19/0 thread. It is quite a bit weaker than the other threads mentioned, but works great for wrapping. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  14. Thanks! I don't think I've ever thought inside the box! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  15. Absolutely superb job Igor!! Such attention to detail and excellent workmanship produced a wonderful SIB!! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  16. Greetings Alan, Great job of repair, though to me it's more of an upgrade!! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  17. Well done indeed! Love that you are showing the entire hull too!! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  18. Thanks Omni and Bernard! It was a struggle, tried various papers and thread colors before I found what worked. Glad you both think the effort was worth it. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  19. Greetings All, In my attempt to get realism I have been working on some ideas for sails. Rather than printing seam lines on paper, my usual method for making sails, I tried out the idea of using thread sandwiched between layers of very thin paper. It took a number of attempts, using different threads and various papers, until I came up with something I think works quite well. The photos below show first one of the hulls with the stern bulwarks added, with the boat davits, and painted black along with the top of the cap rail. Then for the sails, there are several shots showing my sail jig, with bamboo pins spaced where I want my seam lines to be, then strung with 8/0 white fly tying thread. I kept the thread under some tension, while stringing the jig. Beneath the threads is first a small sheet of .003" thick clear acetate, then a folded sheet of .003" 100% cotton drafting paper, with half the paper under the threads. I found it easier to add threads to the jib after the layer of acetate and paper, rather than slipping them under the threads. I then thinned down PVA white glue with water, and using a soft paint brush I laid down a thin layer of glue over nearly the entire paper, leaving 1/4" unglued near the outside edges. The paper warped a bit, and I had to be careful as the wet threads stretched a little, too much brushing moved them around and out of place. I then folded the other half of the paper over the first half, pressed it down by hand, then added another acetate sheet and finally a couple of "C" clamps to hold it all together. Over several attempts I found that too much clamp pressure flattened it all to the point where the ever so slight height difference over the threads completely disappeared, which ruined the effect. I finally found just the right clamping pressure to get the desired results. The last few photos show some completed sails, not easy to detect the seam lines on those, but the later photos show some of the sails installed, and the running rigging added, and here the seam lines seem just right to me. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox iII
  20. Greetings Alan, Great model! You did a magnificent job of detailing and built a wonderful model indeed! Anchor''s A Weigh! John Fox III
  21. Thanks Gwyl, I do try! I am working on a new method for sail making that I hope to share sometime in the near future, will post when I see if it works out. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  22. Greetings All, Finally got the hull air brushed, flat black upper hull and copper lower hull. The cap rail is still white as I have to add solid railings and boat davits before painting the rails black. Next we have the ship's boat for one model. There were two made, one for each model, using cigarette papers over a bone mold. The ribs and cap rail are plastic, the floor boards and thwarts are made from light and dark apple wood. The blocks have been added to hang the boat. Then we have the spars with their blocks attached. I try to add all the blocks and tackle to the individual parts before installation as space is restricted once they are installed. Last, but not least, are the four anchors for the two models. They were made by cutting and sanding 0.02" thick brass sheet, then adding apple wood and black thread to finish them off.
  23. Greetings Alan, As far as I am aware it is safe to "open" a sodium vapor bulb. I've opened at least half a dozen of them and taken no real precautions about what vapors might be inside. All of the bulbs I have used have been "used", and probably burned out, that might make some difference I just don't know for sure. My source was a friend who knew someone who's job was replacing burnt out bulbs, and he just kept a few for his friend. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  24. Greetings, Keep in mind that even the most advanced of us all started in the same place you are! And, beware that this kind of hobby can be VERY addictive! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  25. Thanks Bernard! At the moment I can only imagine what they will look like when completed! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
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