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Bottled Ship Builder

John Fox III

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Everything posted by John Fox III

  1. Here are some photos of the second James Miller model. It is housed in a 9" diameter clock that was made to look like a pocket watch case. The case is actually cast bronze, quite heavy.
  2. Thanks Gwyl! I do attempt to share as much as I can, sometimes it is a lot to absorb it's true. I don't always remember it all either, that is the advantage of digital cameras and saved image files. Using those I can revisit past models to "recall" how I managed to build similar parts/models in the past. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  3. Greetings Bill, Thanks for the kind words! The bottle in this case is a sodium vapor light bulb, which obscures very little of the detail of the model. Don't be discouraged, my first 3 ship in bottle models ended up in the trash can. Remember we ALL start at the same place, it takes time and practice and a desire to increase one's detail level and accuracy. It doesn't happen overnight! <Grin> I've been working on miniature model sailing ships for nearly 40 years, talk to me after you've been at it that long and we will see how you've progressed, if I am around that long! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  4. Greetings Alan, You are welcome! Meant to show more of the launching stick thing earlier, but forgot! <Ughhh> My main problem was always gluing the lines from above, too many things in the way, this idea was my solution to that, any other benefits were simply a plus. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  5. Thanks! I never was one to think inside the box. I am always trying to think of ways to minimize the difficult parts of our shared passion, sometimes it actually works! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  6. Greetings Alan, Here are some photos of the design method for my insertion stick. They are of two different models, but same concept. The last photo shows the clamping head, made from a base that slides onto the main stick portion, with a divider to separate lines port/starboard plus bow, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd mast. The top of the slider portion has a rubber pad on top and a second wood piece also has the same on the bottom, cut from an old inner tube. Sometimes I use clothes pins to clamp the lines between, sometimes just a tightly tied and knotted string. The head can slide onto the stick, but has a small screw on the bottom to old it in place when tightening the lines. This construction allows the head to be used for many different models. The stick portion is made especially for each model, the head can slide onto any of them. The main features of the sticks is they are narrow enough to allow access to the lines along the outside of the bottom of the upper hull, plus cut out openings to allow access to the lines amidship, access is for applying glue to the tightened lines, and for cutting the lines. They also have holes to match the pegs on the underside of the upper hulls, to hold the hull in place. A line around the upper hull and stick keep the model attached to the stick, and is cut after the lines are tightened and glued. The sticks also have wire half hoops attached to the sides, to keep the lines separated and in positions that hold the tightened lines "just right" to allow good gluing access as well. The first photo shows the underside of the hull, with the openings for gluing easily apparent, the middle photo shows the same, though one has to look closely as I didn't rotate the model and stick for that photo. Hope that helps! Anchor's A Weigh! John
  7. Thanks DS! It only took two years to finish, though I was building two of them so that counts. The second is nearly finished now, going into a 9" diameter clock that looks like a pocket watch, will post a shot when that one is done. Anchor's A Weigh! John
  8. Thanks! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  9. Thanks Igor! I do try! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  10. Thanks Jesse! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  11. Thanks James! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  12. Thanks Bernard! The insertion method is one I've used often, in fact the special insertion tool is made specially so that it can be adjusted, within reasonable limits. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  13. Thanks! It was a fun build, at least most of the time! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  14. Greetings All, At last the first James Miller model is finished in the light bulb. I use a special built holding stick to insert and raise the masts on the models. This stick has a clamping method to hold tension on the lines when tightened, and is narrow enough that I can invert the model and glue all the lines beneath the upper hull. I did have one problem with this first model, when I started the two models I carved the first one, the light bulb model, out of basswood the second was carved out of solid maple. The problem is that with all the carving and length of time between start and finish, nearly two years, the upper hull of this first model warped so that the ends were lower than the center. During final trials I found the problem, and tried to fix it by sanding the bottom of the upper hull at the bow and stern. However, this could only be done slightly without damaging the upper hull, so there ended up being a slight gap between upper and lower hull, most evident in the center. The second model's maple hull did not warp. Thinking on it now, I should perhaps not have used a solid piece of basswood for the upper hull, but instead should have used two outer pieces of solid basswood, with a thin piece glued down the center, this just might have kept the hull from warping when carving away the top and bottom areas. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  15. Greetings All, Here are a few photos taken while adding the ratlines to the shrouds on my James Miller models. The jib was made from 1/16" thick maple veneer, holes drilled to match the distance between ratlines. The line used was 8/0 fly tying thread, rigged as shown in first two photos. 3rd photo shows the jig fastened to the shrouds with an insect mounting pin at the top and a pair of miniature clothes pins and a small piece of bamboo split down on the bottom. CA glue was applied to all points that the ratlines behind touched the shrouds. The shrouds for these models was made from 3 pieces of 8/0 thread made into rope on my miniature rope walk. The final photo shows the finished job, after cutting the ratlines at the outside edges of the shrouds. Hope that helps!! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  16. I agree with James! You almost expect Captain Jack to move!!!! Great Job! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  17. Great work Igor! Fascinating watching your development of Captain Jack Sparrow! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  18. Thanks James! I always aim high, only hope it looks as nice once it's collapsed, shoved into the light bulb and erected inside! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  19. Thanks! Who else am I going to share it with? <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  20. Greetings Niallmohr, Look around and you will find there is no such thing as a correct way to bottle a ship, each builder experiments with the different things we see and hear about and eventually find what works best for us. Good luck on your journey! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  21. Thanks Bernard! I appreciate your comment old friend!
  22. Thanks Igor! It is a lot of fun, if a bit frustrating at times. One thing I keep in mind at all times is nothing cannot be repeated if I make a mistake or break something.
  23. Thanks Omni! Forgot to mention the models are at the scale of 1:300.
  24. The first of the two James Miller models is finally completed. Still have to finish up the light bulb stand and the stand to hold the model on the bottom of the bulb. There is a second model, at present it is at the stage of ready to start mounting the masts. The second is a static display model, so in some ways it easier to rig.
  25. Truly remarkable models on display! Thanks for sharing! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
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