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Bottled Ship Builder

John Fox III

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John Fox III last won the day on July 22

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About John Fox III

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  1. Great job Igor! Glad to see you are like myself, smaller is better! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  2. Greetings, I have done ship in bottle/bulb models with as many as 140 control rigging lines to work with in the past. I went through the exact same process as you, tried card drawing with lines through holes at locations, tying small flags to indicate lines, but found the best technique when working with any more than 30 or so lines is to tie knots near the lines ends. I use a single knot for 1, two knots for 2, and so on until I use a loop for 5, and just use multiples of the above for higher numbers of lines. To keep from having to tie dozens of loops into lines, I separate the port side rigging from the starboard side, if that is not enough reduction to limit knots to at most number 20 I break the lines on each side down by mast, i.e. fore/main/mizzen. I keep the individual groups separated, but to make sure I color the an inch or so of the knotted line ends with different colored magic markers for each group. It does take some time to find exactly the one I need at any given point in the erection process, but it does work well with this method. I do make up a rigging schedule to indicate exactly which line should be tightened next, and test this out on a rigging stand prior to insertion of the model. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  3. Greetings DS, Thanks! I bought that clock 10 years ago, but just never had the right model in mind to "fill it". I did enjoy not having to fold things down, plus I could use the lines I make with a miniature rope walk. Not possible to use those lines with a ship in bottle/bulb model as they do not slip through holes easily and my rope walk just isn't long enough to make them of sufficient length. I actually thought as you did after completing this clock model, thinking buying a porthole clock and doing something similar to this one. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  4. Here are some photos of the second James Miller model. It is housed in a 9" diameter clock that was made to look like a pocket watch case. The case is actually cast bronze, quite heavy.
  5. Thanks Gwyl! I do attempt to share as much as I can, sometimes it is a lot to absorb it's true. I don't always remember it all either, that is the advantage of digital cameras and saved image files. Using those I can revisit past models to "recall" how I managed to build similar parts/models in the past. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  6. Greetings Bill, Thanks for the kind words! The bottle in this case is a sodium vapor light bulb, which obscures very little of the detail of the model. Don't be discouraged, my first 3 ship in bottle models ended up in the trash can. Remember we ALL start at the same place, it takes time and practice and a desire to increase one's detail level and accuracy. It doesn't happen overnight! <Grin> I've been working on miniature model sailing ships for nearly 40 years, talk to me after you've been at it that long and we will see how you've progressed, if I am around that long! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  7. Greetings Alan, You are welcome! Meant to show more of the launching stick thing earlier, but forgot! <Ughhh> My main problem was always gluing the lines from above, too many things in the way, this idea was my solution to that, any other benefits were simply a plus. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  8. Thanks! I never was one to think inside the box. I am always trying to think of ways to minimize the difficult parts of our shared passion, sometimes it actually works! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  9. Greetings Alan, Here are some photos of the design method for my insertion stick. They are of two different models, but same concept. The last photo shows the clamping head, made from a base that slides onto the main stick portion, with a divider to separate lines port/starboard plus bow, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd mast. The top of the slider portion has a rubber pad on top and a second wood piece also has the same on the bottom, cut from an old inner tube. Sometimes I use clothes pins to clamp the lines between, sometimes just a tightly tied and knotted string. The head can slide onto the stick, but has a small screw on the bottom to old it in place when tightening the lines. This construction allows the head to be used for many different models. The stick portion is made especially for each model, the head can slide onto any of them. The main features of the sticks is they are narrow enough to allow access to the lines along the outside of the bottom of the upper hull, plus cut out openings to allow access to the lines amidship, access is for applying glue to the tightened lines, and for cutting the lines. They also have holes to match the pegs on the underside of the upper hulls, to hold the hull in place. A line around the upper hull and stick keep the model attached to the stick, and is cut after the lines are tightened and glued. The sticks also have wire half hoops attached to the sides, to keep the lines separated and in positions that hold the tightened lines "just right" to allow good gluing access as well. The first photo shows the underside of the hull, with the openings for gluing easily apparent, the middle photo shows the same, though one has to look closely as I didn't rotate the model and stick for that photo. Hope that helps! Anchor's A Weigh! John
  10. Thanks DS! It only took two years to finish, though I was building two of them so that counts. The second is nearly finished now, going into a 9" diameter clock that looks like a pocket watch, will post a shot when that one is done. Anchor's A Weigh! John
  11. Thanks! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  12. Thanks Igor! I do try! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  13. Thanks Jesse! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  14. Thanks James! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  15. Thanks Bernard! The insertion method is one I've used often, in fact the special insertion tool is made specially so that it can be adjusted, within reasonable limits. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
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