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Bottled Ship Builder

John Fox III

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John Fox III last won the day on January 13

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About John Fox III

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  1. Greetings, I know all too well how super glue will cause fogging of the interior glass surface, sometimes months or years after the bottle/bulb is sealed. I finally found a method to keep that from happening. After the model is completed, I run a small aquarium air pump with a small hose down inside the bottle/bulb and keep it running 24 hours a day for seven days. Since I started doing this I have had zero problems with fogging caused by the super glue fumes. BTW epoxy glue can do the same thing, and since I normally use both and white glue at various stages in building almost any model, I do the airing out process on all of my models that go into sealed containers. Hope that helps someone! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  2. Greetings Bruce, Love the story about the grocery store visit! I am fortunate, or not depending on your viewpoint, in that I have nearly miraculous near sightedness and need no lenses to work on my models. IN fact, I just had cataract surgery, and made sure the new lens kept me nearsighted, so I can continue to work the way I always have. I actually am so near sighted that I work without my glasses, take them off and put them down somewhere. There have been times when I had to call my wife to help me, as I could not find my glasses later when I needed them! <Grin> As to building larger, I have been doing the same lately, but for me it just means more experimenting to get tinier details in the larger model. Should really take some pics of my new work, a sandbagger at 1:96 scale, but it is a huge experiment in itself. I actually started the build by making a "plug" of the hull shape, and covered it with paper mache type layers of tissue paper soaked in thinned white glue. I've made most of my ship's boats that way, even have a video online at Vimeo about that method. However, this hull is many times larger, at about 4" long. I planked the paper hull while still on the plug, with maple veneer sanded down to .005" thick, as I don't think removing the paper hull from the plug would have worked otherwise. Your America is nicely detailed for it's size, you are on your way to the level of craziness that will someday beat my own! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  3. Greetings, Here's my take on this topic. 1.] Nothing is impossible, until I've tried every method I can think of and failed, 2.] Anything I've done once I can do again, if necessary. Thus, I sometimes take weeks and 3 or 4 tries before I find a method that works for me in making or assembling any of my models. And, if I break something while working on a model I know I can repeat building it since I did it the first time. I do experiment a lot while building, always searching for a better way, or a way that looks more realistic, so the above is constantly in my mind as I work through a project. That is one reason I do not write build logs for many of my models, they'd be almost never ending! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  4. Great presentation for a really nice model of Black Pearl! Congratulations! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  5. As usual, your detailing is superb Igor! Well done! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  6. Very well done indeed! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  7. Nice over view of your work Igor! You do great work on tiny models, and agree those dead eyes were a bit too large and out of scale, better left off a model of this size. Your slipway is very ingenious, pegs and holes to hold the rigging lines is unique and a good way to do things. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  8. Great job Igor! Glad to see you are like myself, smaller is better! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  9. Greetings, I have done ship in bottle/bulb models with as many as 140 control rigging lines to work with in the past. I went through the exact same process as you, tried card drawing with lines through holes at locations, tying small flags to indicate lines, but found the best technique when working with any more than 30 or so lines is to tie knots near the lines ends. I use a single knot for 1, two knots for 2, and so on until I use a loop for 5, and just use multiples of the above for higher numbers of lines. To keep from having to tie dozens of loops into lines, I separate the port side rigging from the starboard side, if that is not enough reduction to limit knots to at most number 20 I break the lines on each side down by mast, i.e. fore/main/mizzen. I keep the individual groups separated, but to make sure I color the an inch or so of the knotted line ends with different colored magic markers for each group. It does take some time to find exactly the one I need at any given point in the erection process, but it does work well with this method. I do make up a rigging schedule to indicate exactly which line should be tightened next, and test this out on a rigging stand prior to insertion of the model. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  10. Greetings DS, Thanks! I bought that clock 10 years ago, but just never had the right model in mind to "fill it". I did enjoy not having to fold things down, plus I could use the lines I make with a miniature rope walk. Not possible to use those lines with a ship in bottle/bulb model as they do not slip through holes easily and my rope walk just isn't long enough to make them of sufficient length. I actually thought as you did after completing this clock model, thinking buying a porthole clock and doing something similar to this one. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  11. Here are some photos of the second James Miller model. It is housed in a 9" diameter clock that was made to look like a pocket watch case. The case is actually cast bronze, quite heavy.
  12. Thanks Gwyl! I do attempt to share as much as I can, sometimes it is a lot to absorb it's true. I don't always remember it all either, that is the advantage of digital cameras and saved image files. Using those I can revisit past models to "recall" how I managed to build similar parts/models in the past. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  13. Greetings Bill, Thanks for the kind words! The bottle in this case is a sodium vapor light bulb, which obscures very little of the detail of the model. Don't be discouraged, my first 3 ship in bottle models ended up in the trash can. Remember we ALL start at the same place, it takes time and practice and a desire to increase one's detail level and accuracy. It doesn't happen overnight! <Grin> I've been working on miniature model sailing ships for nearly 40 years, talk to me after you've been at it that long and we will see how you've progressed, if I am around that long! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  14. Greetings Alan, You are welcome! Meant to show more of the launching stick thing earlier, but forgot! <Ughhh> My main problem was always gluing the lines from above, too many things in the way, this idea was my solution to that, any other benefits were simply a plus. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  15. Thanks! I never was one to think inside the box. I am always trying to think of ways to minimize the difficult parts of our shared passion, sometimes it actually works! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
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