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Bottled Ship Builder


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DavidB773 last won the day on May 26 2018

DavidB773 had the most liked content!

About DavidB773

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    Third Officer

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    Lafayette, Indiana

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  1. Cool ship there, James! Thanks for sharing it with us! David
  2. DavidB773


    For the single SIB I’ve completed, I drew the American flag on both sides of a single piece of paper then folded it in half. Used red and blue ink. Folded, the size is about 2 mm x 3 mm. I’m pretending that there are 38 stars in the field on this 1881 flag.
  3. Hello, all. Here's a link to the video of the placement of the foremast on the W.H. Dimond using this tool. https://youtu.be/eT_Nua9Fi3Q David
  4. While working on the Dimond project, a threading loop on the port side bow was inadvertently yanked out. The loop was connected to a thread that exited at the base of the bow along with all the other threads. It was to be used for controlling a bowsprit brace from outside of the bottle. Here are two pics showing it beforehand. I didn’t want to lose an adjustment point that loop provided so I decided to place looped wire there for attaching the brace to. These photos show how I carried the wire to the bow and placed it in the hole. This depiction was after the initial repair was made. Here’s the stiff paper holder with the carrying wire being taped to it along with the wire peg and thread. The wire peg is in place on the holder and held there by tensioning the thread that will be used as the brace. This causes the wire peg to pivot forward and it is then carried to the bow and placed in the hole.
  5. Fine models, Spanky. The "Sovereign" looks like she's all there. The paddle wheel metalwork on the "Santa Clara" is quite detailed. Looks like she could have been a working model.
  6. I appreciate that, Arup! The bottle is not glued to the stand. Those square pads are a cured adhesive (E6000) cut to shape then glued to the stand. They grip the glass to keep it secure.
  7. Thank you, Arup! Thank you, Mr. S., taking a look at what I'm doing here. I'm quite honored to read your opinion of what I've accomplished. I have a cork for the bottle but it needs to be sized to fit. However, I'm not going to let that get in the way of posting this!
  8. She's almost complete. And no more lines coming out of the bottle!
  9. In my case, bad things happen at any pace! One thing I'm facing is being able to create enough tension on the bowsprit forestays to move the foremast slightly forward for the purpose of tightening the foremast yard braces. The foremast would need to move only 1 or 2 mm for that. This is where the bobstays will do their part. Here, the control lines are being separated for the big cut. After this was done, the bowsprit was kept as shown while I was fitting the sea. That involved a lot of insertion and removal of the pair of sea halves and it was a lot quicker this way. All done.
  10. Welcome aboard, James! That's a fine craft you have there. Well proportioned. That bottle is definitely full! David
  11. What's different about this step is that the lines are static and the spar is slowly pushed "through" them. So far I haven't found an errant touch of dried adhesive along the path.
  12. As a followup, the above line was replaced. I've been working aft to stern making adjustments and cleaning the inside of the bottle. All of the threading with the bowsprit is done outside of the bottle and it's ready to go in. In the bottle, my initial threading plan for the bowsprit called for single line threading. It would have been complicated (but not impossible) to coax thread through the holes and would have involved delicate trimming. However, after putting the bowsprit in the support, I pictured a different scenario that will be much easier to accomplish. I broke the threads up in sections and now the trimming points will be easier to access. Start of the threading: Overall view.
  13. I appreciate the conversation, Mike. Look at the photo from 4.1.17 of single line channel to see how small (or big!) a peg can be. Following are photos of a line I'm replacing because I can't get the kink out of it. It was a tight loop that was in the mast for quite a while then pulled through. Moistening it had no effect. We see the line, then one end cut followed by a glued extension to it to prep for the last cut. (Could have glued first before the first cut.) This will carry the new line to the masts. This new line is CA coated thread. Trial run. More later.
  14. Thank you for your gracious comments, Mr. S. and Landlubber. Mike, further up on this page there are some photos that show all of the lines that I ran underneath the hollowed out hull. On my project, the shroud lines and back stays are attached to the masts then are threaded through holes in the channels then take an immediate bend to go through holes in the hull. They all then exit at the bow where they will be cut and all of this is below the waterline. This method would work with a split hull or not. Here are my thoughts about your plan for securing the lines at the channels first then trimming them at the mast. Masts can be relatively sturdy or maybe not. How much side force can they take especially unintentional movement? Adhesives can make cutting difficult and especially on a delicate mast. How’s about attaching the lines at the mast and also to the channel before putting them in? When it all goes in, bring the channel to the hull. All of the line trimming would have been done outside of the bottle. Maybe the channel can be pegged to be set in a hole in the hull. You may have any adjustments in line tension so careful laying out would be in order. (BTW, the channels on my project are all pegged. I believe in pegging everything possible for strength and it paid off.) Let us know what you think, Mike.
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