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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points

    Gypsy Moth IV

    After working on HMS Gannet for months felt a need to build something quick and a bit easier. Plumped on Sir Francis Chichester's, 'Gypsy Moth IV' something that I remember from my younger days! Never done a model in an upright bottle before so this was something new for me. (Thanks to Ioan for the idea) From start to finish about 27 days to complete. Split hull design. Carved a new internal stand to allow for the natural curve in the bottle base.
  2. 11 points
    Greetings All, In my attempt to get realism I have been working on some ideas for sails. Rather than printing seam lines on paper, my usual method for making sails, I tried out the idea of using thread sandwiched between layers of very thin paper. It took a number of attempts, using different threads and various papers, until I came up with something I think works quite well. The photos below show first one of the hulls with the stern bulwarks added, with the boat davits, and painted black along with the top of the cap rail. Then for the sails, there are several shots showing my sail jig, with bamboo pins spaced where I want my seam lines to be, then strung with 8/0 white fly tying thread. I kept the thread under some tension, while stringing the jig. Beneath the threads is first a small sheet of .003" thick clear acetate, then a folded sheet of .003" 100% cotton drafting paper, with half the paper under the threads. I found it easier to add threads to the jib after the layer of acetate and paper, rather than slipping them under the threads. I then thinned down PVA white glue with water, and using a soft paint brush I laid down a thin layer of glue over nearly the entire paper, leaving 1/4" unglued near the outside edges. The paper warped a bit, and I had to be careful as the wet threads stretched a little, too much brushing moved them around and out of place. I then folded the other half of the paper over the first half, pressed it down by hand, then added another acetate sheet and finally a couple of "C" clamps to hold it all together. Over several attempts I found that too much clamp pressure flattened it all to the point where the ever so slight height difference over the threads completely disappeared, which ruined the effect. I finally found just the right clamping pressure to get the desired results. The last few photos show some completed sails, not easy to detect the seam lines on those, but the later photos show some of the sails installed, and the running rigging added, and here the seam lines seem just right to me. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox iII
  3. 11 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Finally got the hull air brushed, flat black upper hull and copper lower hull. The cap rail is still white as I have to add solid railings and boat davits before painting the rails black. Next we have the ship's boat for one model. There were two made, one for each model, using cigarette papers over a bone mold. The ribs and cap rail are plastic, the floor boards and thwarts are made from light and dark apple wood. The blocks have been added to hang the boat. Then we have the spars with their blocks attached. I try to add all the blocks and tackle to the individual parts before installation as space is restricted once they are installed. Last, but not least, are the four anchors for the two models. They were made by cutting and sanding 0.02" thick brass sheet, then adding apple wood and black thread to finish them off.
  4. 10 points

    What's on your workbench?

    Schooner ATLANTIC in progress...
  5. 10 points
    John Zuch

    My "Waterwitch"

    Like you I to used Jack Needham's book for my model of the Waterwitch
  6. 10 points
    An example of the frame method.
  7. 9 points
    First off, I'd like to thank you guys of the forum and most of all Daniel Siemens, for all the wonderful knowledge,help and encouragement I've had the pleasure to receive during the undertaking of this build. My hope with this piece meal presentation is that some other novices out there can benefit fro m my particular experience in some way. So here we go. In almost every way this build incorporates techniques and processes I've never tried before and only became aware of through the pages of this forum and discussions with Daniel. Along the way I had to contrive some methods to get things done, some of which I'll share here. As I was going along I also found myself tearing things down and starting over again and again because I did something that wasn't going to work and had to fix that, testing my patients all the while. After a two month period of time working most every day on it, I came up with a, I think, pretty decent generic brigantine that I basically modeled after this silhouette. I had never built a SIB model with more than one square sail on it before so I've been itching for years now to get to that place where I could confidently build square riggers. For the most part, the majority of the dozen or so SIBs I built years ago were schooners or sloops of one kind or another. MY FIRST CLAY SEA MATERIAL: I decided earl on after looking at some of the seas in pictures on this forum that I was going to use clay for my sea instead of what I had been using which was blue RTV silicone. Here's a picture of what my seas use to look like. I read everything I could find on the forum that addressed sea material, which is quite a lot actually. With some further input from you guys, I finally decided to go with a PLASTALINA type clay made by VAN AKEN. After working with the stuff throughout the course of this adventure I've decided that I love it. I made a really nice sea for my ship. I also found out that it melted easily over my stove burner to fuse well to the bottom and sides of the bottle. An incidental discovery with this material was that if you expose the top surface of this clay once it's in the bottle under the close light of two 100 watt shaded trouble lights, the glass will heat up and after a while the surface of the clay takes on a satin like wet look which I think is SWEET. I can't tell you how long that process took for sure or how hot the glass got. I do know that it became apparent to me that the sea was getting shinny around the time I had been working inside the bottle on the rigging for about a couple of hours. About the 100 watt trouble lights. I like to work with as much light as close as possible to whatever I'm working on. In this scenario I had a light on the right side and a light on the left side about four inches away from the bottle. I'll certainly be utilizing this characteristic that this clay exhibits when heated from above on my next build, too. HOW I MIXED MY SEA COLOR: I made a sampling chart of the five different clay colors that I purchased to come up with the color I chose for this ships sea. I've put all the combinations of clay that I mixed on a stick and numbered them 1 through 11. To this I've attached a print out of the picture of their proportions before mixing for future reference. I'm sure I will want to use a range of sea color possibilities in the future. I know that there are far more combinations I could have mixed but for now these 11 will suffice. SIZING THINGS UP: I've always liked the Pinch bottle 5th and the way a ship looks in it. It's kinda dreamy looking to me and so I chose it for this build. Besides I had one on hand I've been dragging around for eons. LOL. I basically scaled up a drawing of the ship from the silhouette I found on line. I made a hull blank and put it inside the bottle, held that drawing up to the glass to get a good idea of how much of the bottle would fill up with ship. Although I didn't know it at the time that I did my sizing process, Daniel has a much more accurate way to do it in his tutorial on, "How to build a Bermuda sloop (for beginners)", which you can find on this forum under the menu selection called, Build Logs. Check it out! A great deal of what I have come to do on this build of mine is a direct reflection of the things I've learned from his tutorial. Anyway somewhere in the beginning of his tutorial he shows how he makes a paper cutout of the ship and puts that cutout inside the bottle. Wish I knew how to put a link to his tutorial right here but I don't so you'll have to look it up. It's a treasure trove of technique and process for sure. THREAD BLOCKS: Yet another first for me is this thing called a thread block. There's a nice video on Daniel's tutorial by a guy named John Fox III, that shows how to make them. I had never known about them before and how useful they are especially in doing the running rigging for square sails. I made some the way John shows in the video and also came up with another way to put them on the end of my yards which was easier for me. I was also introduced to the Cow Hitch that is used on the center of the yard to attach it to the mast allowing the yard to pivot around. Between these two concepts, it dawned on me how I would be able to rotate the sails out of the way to get them through the neck of the bottle and because the running rigging freely passes through both thread block on the ends of the yard I would be able to set the tack of the sails once everything was inside the bottle.Pretty neat. Basically I made my thread blocks for the yards by holding a piece of wire in my vice. I secured the yard to the wire with a piece of masking tape being mindful of the correct orientation of where the Cow Hitch was and where the blocks needed to be. I made a mark on the wire where I wanted the block located from the end of the yard. That way I could duplicate the same location on the other side. When one thread block was done I slid it off the wire, flipped the yard 180 then put it back on the wire and tied the other one. PAPER SAILS AND SPANKER: Okay for the first time I'm using paper sails too. In the past all my builds had cloth sails because I had always had a problem with kinking paper going down the neck. Fabric was much more compliant for me. Another thing that I gleaned from Daniels, process was that the spanker sail has to come way away from the mast in order to get through the neck and unscathed. In my case I made a yolk crutch to wrap around the mast for the end of the boom out of a piece of brass wire. I drilled a hole through the mast at the spot where the boom would be nesting. Then I made two wire blocks and tied them to the boom.The running rigging for the spanker sail's sheeting goes through them and the hole then forward all the way out of the bottle.This configuration worked out perfectly for me as the gaff was able to move way out of the way along with the boom when the time came. So no kinked spanker. Incidentally, the travelers you see in my pictures are "Mini Swing Line Stapler", staples. I've used them on almost every ship I've made for that purpose. Sometimes I put a radius on them. On this build I also used four of them to attach my rat lines and back stays onto. Ironically, using the staples this way would later save my ass , as you will shortly come to see. LESSON LEARNED These pictures show a couple of things. The first thing that is evident, (to you old salts anyway), is that my ratlines and back stays are too far forward of the center line of the mast to ever lay down flat. When the time came to fold down the masts and I discovered that they wouldn't lay down I almost had a heart attack. Disaster! At one time I must have known about the importance of these elements locations relative to the pivot point of the mast because all my builds were successful in the past in this regard. But over the years I just totally forgot about it. Anyway, after a while of total dismay and a whiny conversation with Daniel, it came to me that I could remove the staples that the ratlines and back stays were attached to and relocate them back and up. That solved the problem and is an example of one of the tear downs I was speaking about in the beginning of this discourse. I wasn't able to get those lines as tight as they were and that's a huge disappointment. Another thing that the pictures show is the way I chose to step the masts. In the past I always used the wire hing method but this time I decided to use clock bearings. These bearings are put in old clocks when the original bearings are worn oval over time. It just so happens that I also restore antique clocks for a hobby too and have these bearings on hand.The one side of the bearing has a counter sink on it to hold oil for a gears pinion shaft. that counter sink was mounted up so the mast with a rounded bottom nested in the countersink just fine. In the future I'm just going to drill a divot on my deck to do this . it's a lot less work. SECURING THE SHIP IN THE BOTTLE: I put a trough in the middle of my sea material and found some of that white 5 minute epoxy at Home depot that Daniel had spoken about somewhere on the forum. Can't remember where but anyway it worked out great. There was a little bit of it that oozed up around the hull but I covered that up with white clay to look like the wake of a ship moving through the water. SETTING MY SAILS TACK INSIDE THE BOTTLE: I'm sure that there is some way to avoid what I had to do to come to the point of sail I wanted for my ship but as yet I don't know that. Basically I made my sea to reflect a reaching tack which meant that everything had to be adjusted from how it was built outside the bottle for that tack inside the bottle. For the boom and gaff of the spanker sail I used a piece of wood to lean against the top end of the gaff which held it there while the CA glue dried. I pushed the boom out with a wire tool and tightened the sheeting of the sail from outside the bottle. At this point I glued the yolk and sheeting line off with CA. Then I went in with a razor on a wire and cut the sheeting line off at the front of the mast where it came out of the hole. ADJUSTING THE YARDS: To pull the yards over for the reach tack I made a slip knot lasso and used that to grab the outside end of the yard arm and pull it forward careful all the while that the running rigging was moving through the thread blocks on either side of the yard arm without hanging up. Worked like a charm. I then went in and touched the Cow Hitch at the mast with some CA glue to set it. I waited a minute before I let go of the tension on the lasso I was using to hold the yards position.To be doubly sure the sail would stay put I removed the lasso and touched the outside thread block where the running rigging touched it with the CA glue. The only problem with this process aside from being tedious is that it is difficult to get all the yards on both masts to have the same degree of angle when it's all said and done. There's got to be a better way to do this, I mean to have the tack of all the sails predetermined before it goes in the bottle? Perhaps some of you guys can pipe in on this issue? One other thing that I learned about CA glue is it will for sure fog up the inside of your bottle if you use a lot of glue like I did inside. So best, if you can turn the bottle up to let the off gasses from the glue escape better. Even so be prepared to spend hours inside with Windex and a piece of cloth scrubbing the glass clean again. Big Pain In The Ass. Better yet plan the build to use a minimal amount of glue inside. SUMMING UP: There are a whole lot of more topics I could have touched on in this discourse but If I go on about it, it's kinda like someone saying , I could write a book. So I'm leaving it here. I sure learned a great deal during this build doing things for the first time was daunting in some respects but I survived the fray. I'd also like to say that it sure is nice to have a place like this to share our projects with other like minded nut cases because let's face it no average person on the planet has a clue about the work we do creating these little engineering marvels. There is so much to learn in this wonderful medium and I'm excited about the future builds I'm dreaming of already. Great to have my feet wet again. Thanks for reading mate. Best regards Bruce.
  8. 9 points
  9. 9 points

    HMS Terror

    I like to use matt black spray paint as it dries in just a few minutes so you don't have to wait around for it to dry for an age.Marked out the deck and drilled holes where I want the masts and bowsprit to go.The veneer deck will go in as one solid piece. Will carry on with the construction of the masts and slicing the hull into four sections so that all the pieces will be able to go through the bottle neck without any struggle.Masts and bowsprit constructed with a little help from styrene.They will be sprayed matt white.
  10. 8 points
    Jeff B

    What's on your workbench?

    All bottled up.
  11. 8 points
    Jeff B

    What's on your workbench?

    HMS Waterwitch
  12. 8 points
    Time to get into yards arms and running rigging. This is a little tricky since parts of the running rigging works off of other parts but little by little it comes together. First lets start with the gaff. When it some to yard arms I prefer to tie them on instead of drilling holes. This keeps the overall strength of the model while enabling the use of parts that are more to scale. One of the primary knots I use for this is the cow hitch. This is particularly useful for square rigged sails. You can tie a cow hitch on the yard arm and then use the ends to tie the yard arm onto the mast. I used this same method for the gaff. Tie a cow hitch on the gaff and use the ends to tie it to the mast. I find it easier to tie the knot around the base of the mast then slide it up into place and glue the string to the mast. The gaff should be able to raise up and down and move side to side on the knot. For the halyard on the gaff tie a thread block on the end end of the gaff. Then tie a string to the mast just above the cross trees. Run it through the thread block the tie it to the mast at the spot you started. Cut off the excess. If you want it to be slightly more realistic you can run it down to the bulwarks where it would be tied off. This is a bit over kill so I just cut it off. The important part here is the length of the gaff halyard. You want the halyard to be tight with the gaff at the angle it is on the plans.
  13. 8 points

    Generic Brigatine

    All, Thanks for the likes and comments. Much appreciated. It started life as my first attempt using one of the set of plans ( the Collier Brigantine) in Leon Labistour's Book; Making Ships in Bottles - I started to add and change things as I went for practice. As John said, more of an upgrade. The deck planking is drawn in Powerpoint and printed. I've attached it below if anyone wants to us it - just shrink and grow as required. I now use scored wood or cut planks. The sea is plasticene 'varnished' with several coats of diluted PVA glue to give it a shine, however I studied photos of waves, wind direction and wakes plus my own observations when I was at sea. I was trying to get the wind and sea coming from the port quarter, can't have too big waves or the sails would be reefed/furled or the ship would be right over. But it was time to retire it to a happy life in a bottle, and use another as a practice SIB. All the best for the New Year to everyone. Alan Planking.pptx
  14. 7 points
    I'm going to Segway from the clipper but in a round about way involve it in these next few picture anyway. This is the Danish cigar box inside the larger box that for lack of anything better, I'm calling his, build kit box. So inside here there are masts, some already drilled. Various sizes of yards having only one hole in the dead center. As far as I can tell there are no holes at the ends of any yards on these three builds I have. Interesting. Which also may explain how they are able to have such a nice taper to them. Finally we have an assortment of.... OH MY GOD! BRASS SAILS.!!! The nerve of this young wiper snapper!! Why, the very idea!! Who ever would of heard of such a thing!! Yes, indeedy folks, this is one's for the books! These pieces of brass shim stock are, .090mm or around .004 thousands of an inch thick. Pretty close to paper thickness. They are painted white somewhere along in his process of the build. They seem to hold their shape very well and are pretty flexible, too. I like them and I'm suggesting that we can ascribe this as an identifiable Anders Henriksen signature attribute. Unless you guys have seen this before, I will then stand corrected??? This picture below is a piece of quarter inch thick wood,( I think stained), and it was laying on top of the little cigar box that holds all the parts. I took these masts and yards out of the parts box to see if they lined up with the grooves cut into the board and as you can see they do. I can tell that there was drilling going on because the bottom of the two grooves for the masts are pot-marked with what looks like needle pokes. You'll also notice that there are two pencil drawn pictures top and bottom that I'm pretty sure are calling out locations to drill as well. Notice the top mast laying in the middle of the board just above the pencil drawing. At it's left end there is what looks like a small dowel on it's tip. It's actually carved on there and I'm pretty sure that the little oval you see on the end of the drawing below it there indicates, that that is where the bead goes on the top of the mast. Once again a signature element of this building style and perhaps time, as all the builds masts, that I have here, are topped with beads. White ones. This next picture is the flip side of this wooden fixture and is really intriguing. A real mystery!
  15. 7 points

    Hello from Down Under

    Hi All, As I have recently bought a SiB kit, I figured that being a member of this forum should be interesting. I've been building semi-scale, RC controlled model boats for a while, and somehow drifted into miniature Ships in Bottles, (for better or worse!) I bought the Amati "Hannah", thinking that it would be a good starting place, and I think I'm right in that respect. There are a few issues with it, but nothing that isn't surmountable. As I get on with it, I'll post a few photos. Cheers, and looking forward to meeting other members. Mick
  16. 7 points
    Got some time in the Man Cave to work on the base for the bulb and started on the masts and support for the hull. The masts are small wire and sewing needles soldered together. If you look closely there is a gold patina dry-brushed on the base and support structures for the bulb. I made a special little tool to measure the contour of the inside of the bulb as well. Enjoy!
  17. 7 points
  18. 6 points
    Greetings, I have done ship in bottle/bulb models with as many as 140 control rigging lines to work with in the past. I went through the exact same process as you, tried card drawing with lines through holes at locations, tying small flags to indicate lines, but found the best technique when working with any more than 30 or so lines is to tie knots near the lines ends. I use a single knot for 1, two knots for 2, and so on until I use a loop for 5, and just use multiples of the above for higher numbers of lines. To keep from having to tie dozens of loops into lines, I separate the port side rigging from the starboard side, if that is not enough reduction to limit knots to at most number 20 I break the lines on each side down by mast, i.e. fore/main/mizzen. I keep the individual groups separated, but to make sure I color the an inch or so of the knotted line ends with different colored magic markers for each group. It does take some time to find exactly the one I need at any given point in the erection process, but it does work well with this method. I do make up a rigging schedule to indicate exactly which line should be tightened next, and test this out on a rigging stand prior to insertion of the model. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  19. 6 points
    Bruce Foxworthy

    How to do water

    Hi guys : I haven't built a ship in a bottle for a few decades now and am just starting up again. In the past I always used Blue RTV silicone for my seas but as the years go by some of them develop a crystalline like substance that looks all the world like someone sprinkled a salt shaker in there. Aside from that there was the sometimes but not always fogging up of the bottle from off gasses. Pain in the but to clean up. Anyway I've decided to give the Plasticine method a go but I need some things clarified a bit . Exwafoo, you say you put the hull blank into the Plasticine before you have painted it cause the clay sticks to it. Do you have problems with it not wanting to come out of it's recess? So when you finish the build and place the hull in for the last time do you somehow glue it to the recess?? My concern is that once I start pulling on the strings to raise everything that the ship is liable to come out of it's seat?? That would certainly be a problem. Next I'd like to know if you don't bake it how long do you wait before you place the hull into this material for final assembly?? How long do you wait before you cork the bottle? Seems to me that without some air flow getting to the Plasticine, it would stay soft for a long time. What brand of Plasticine do you use?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Attached is a 35 year old model with the crystalline salt like stuff growing on the sea.
  20. 6 points
  21. 6 points
  22. 6 points
    So, as I've got only 6 days left to complete this, I thought I'd better get the bottle done, working on the assumption that sometimes less is more I decided to keep it simple and just paint the bottom of the bottle, that and I've only ended up with about eight of an inch height to spare! Silica gel packets really help speed up the drying process.
  23. 5 points

    SMS Viribus Unitis, 125’ to 1”

    After 17 days of work, 554 individual scratch-built pieces, my model of the Austro-Hungarian Dreadnought SMS Viribus Unitis Model is finished. The model depicts the ship as-built in her Montecucculin Green camouflage. The model is 9.5cm or 3.75” long. Using drawings of the ship that I scaled down, the hull and main turrets were made from maple, the hull being a sold piece. The deck was planked with laser cut basswood, the funnels from turned and machines brass, the bulk of the superstructure was made from styrene and brass. Masts, gun barrels, and torpedo net booms were also made from brass. The awning net supports, torpedo net rigging and mast rigging are all tungsten wire. Flags were hand painted on foil with oils and acrylics. The paint consists of black poly-acrylic primer with green-blue from Vallejo. A very thin wash of grayish brown oil was applied to bring out some of the hull details. Everything was sealed with Vallejo matte lightly airbrushed. I chose a much lighter shade of green since the prototype color, Oliv Mittel, would have been far too dark on a ship this scale. I think the green-blue from Vallejo captured the essence of the Montecucculin camouflage.
  24. 5 points

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Hi Mick, Jeff, Mick, seems we had the same thoughts on the quality of the base and thanks for the info on the holder. Much appreciated. Jeff, as a picture is worth a 1000 words and is definitely better than my ‘sketch’ here are some phots show how I do things. Not the only way by any means, but may give you ideas. I’ve used a hull of a clipper that I am building to demonstrate, ignore the peg sticking out of the bottom, that's temporary for holding in a vice. The photos below show the brass staple in the stirrer stick. I drilled pilot holes in both the stick and the hull to ease the fit – there is still enough friction to hold. The photos below show the stick pinned to the hull. The recesses are for access to the rigging when the masts are fitted. I would cut away some of the stick to gain access to the forward one. I’ve also glued a length of thread to the stick and then tied it around the hull to help support it. Its easily cut away when required. The photo below shows the stick being removed by gently pushing a styrene rod shaped to a chisel point under the bow after the thread has been cut. I’m thinking about putting a dogleg in the styrene rod to make it a bit easier for access. The phot below show some of the tools I use. Top to bottom- Swab stick holder – a wooden skewer with some brass tube at each end (different angles) formed to hold a cotton swab. I use these with acetone to clean the inside of the bottle. Acetone removes plasticene (for the sea) and glue (both CA and PVA) that may have found its way onto the glass. I don’t think you are the only sibber to catch things when gluing up in the bottle. Brass wire – on a length of glass fibre. Used to push, pull, poke, lift etc. I’ve also used it to place small amounts of glue where required because the brass bends easily. Small brush – a small brush head glued to a length of brass mounted in a wooden skewer. I use this for touch up paints and glue (dilute PVA). The brass can be bent as required. Two glue applicators – the top one used for in the bottle. Its a sewing needle, bent as shown, mounted in a wooden skewer and with the head ground down to a ‘U’ shape to hold the glue. The one below is similar but straight and only about 6” long that I use outside the bottle. I’ve found that to reduce glue going astray in the bottle I have a ‘dry’ practice run to check that the applicator will reach where I want. I hold it horizontally with the ‘point’ towards me, and place the bend in the needle on the inside of the neck furthest from me as I (slowly) insert it. This helps keep it steady and the gluey point away from the sides. I’ve also tried using slips of paper to protect the control threads. If I do catch the side then a quick wipe with acetone gets rid of it before it dries – its quicker when its wet. Hope it helps Best for now Alan
  25. 5 points
    Jeff B

    1776 Lexington, Continental Brig of War

    Well, I got jiggy with it😄. Backstays and lower ratlines are on. 3/0 black waxed fly tying thread run through my own chunk of beeswax again to prevent / minimize fuzzy rigging. Thanks for reading and following. BR, Jeff
  26. 5 points
    I soaked the skewers in hot water and left them for a day and a half in the water. I found them much easier to drill. I also put a dab of superglue on the tips prior to drilling the mast top holes and at the mast foot for the hinge, so the wood doesn't crack while drilling.
  27. 5 points
    Finally recovered the mishap. Drilled my gun ports and notched out the top rails. Im glad the days of bending Popsicle sticks and flat toothpicks are behind me.
  28. 5 points

    How to do water

    I agree it probably is a chemical patent and they are all different. Definitely experiment and find what works for you. As far as the wire method. I use coat hanger wire so its pretty stiff. It does take some practice and patience. I do have a photo I need to add to my current build log. Notice the wire is placed just before the mast and holds the ship down. I'm holding the forestay line with the same hand I'm holding the wire with. I use my free hand to pull the line tight and work my tools. First thing I do is tighten the line where I want it to check that every thing is working. Second I loosen the line a little bit. With a second wire I put a dab of super glue on the line right in front of the thread block or hole the line is being pulled through. I pull that wire out and tighten the line. Since I use super glue this takes about five seconds. Last, once the glue is dry I go back with a razor blade on the end of a wire and cut the line. All of this is done with one hand on the wire holding the ship down and the other working the tools. The advantage is you can maneuver the ship to reach lines easier than you would if the ship was glued down. Also on a catastrophic failure you can cut the rigging and pull the ship out with out breaking the bottle.
  29. 5 points

    HMS Terror

    A bit crude stern windows..
  30. 5 points
    Many thanks, Jeff and Jesse! Jesse, I'm using a syringe with the long tube for this.
  31. 5 points

    Something I tried many moons ago

    Hi Niallmhor, If you did this, you have the basic idea. I've always enjoyed the carving and shaping of the hull as the fun part. Shaping the spars is a bit tedious. The rigging is intricate but rewarding. Inserting the model and righting it on the putty sea can expose faults in construction, especially if the neck is a narrow diameter. But remember, the model can always be pulled back out if things aren't right (I've had to do this a few times). Even if you glue the stays down and discover that something isn't right, you can cut the rigging and extract the model and re-rig it and try again. Since you created the model, you can always fix it. The putty sea doesn't dry out or harden very quickly so extraction is always an option. You don't have to accept defects and don't be afraid to scrap work and re-work it.
  32. 4 points
    Started to paint, using a mixture this time of acrylics and enamels. This is a nightmare for me as I've not got a steady hand! So will need a few touch ups here and there. Not looking forward to doing the black as the lines will have to be super straight for it to look right, any tips? ?
  33. 3 points


    Those are the scuppers. You are correct they allow water to drain off the deck. I think the thread represents them really well.
  34. 3 points
    Great job Igor! Glad to see you are like myself, smaller is better! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  35. 3 points

    What's on your workbench?

    That lopms great in that bottle. I live the way it frames the ship.
  36. 3 points

    La nina, caravel.

    That looks great. I love these little syrup bottles. I've used a few myself.
  37. 3 points
    Jeff B

    Jeff bs build #3.

    After looking at Dsiemens, and Exwafoos Ratline jigs, I made one too. Started out with holes, but the lines are crooked. Notches in the side worked out better. Thread locked into position with super glue.
  38. 3 points
    Absolutely superb job Igor!! Such attention to detail and excellent workmanship produced a wonderful SIB!! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  39. 2 points

    G'day from Down Under

    Ahoy from Australia! I've been creeping around the forums for a while now trying to learn all I can from discussion topics and build logs with the hope of starting my first SIB soon. I'm a mechanical engineer, so I love the planning/problem solving stage as much as the actual build of any project. I intend to start a build log soon detailing my initial build plan, and I hope it gets picked apart with suggestions of improvement from the wealth of experience available here. Kind regards, Caleb
  40. 2 points
    Daniel: I just read that article in the 1930 Popular Science you linked us too. Fascinating. First time I've heard of "pegging" a line. I'm assuming you drill a hole and then lay the line on top of that and the use something like a pointed round tooth pick and jam the line in the hole to fasten it there. Sweet, no glue. Going to put this link in my files. Thanks. Oh, I'm thinking Anders, never new the color of the Lawson but knew it existed possibly from black and white photographs. Not much color in those days.
  41. 2 points
    James w rogers

    Hello From Holland

    Welcome aboard, its a great place!😃
  42. 2 points

    The princess royal 1841

    Hi James, I just bought one of these kits also but not at the bargain you got. The putty will be hardened and useless by now but no big deal since putty availability is not a problem. My bottle was made in France and doesn't have the imprint on it. But these Authentic Model kits are just about the best I've seen at the price ( the Amati models look superb but are almost $100 USD). I also have an AM "Privateer" that I think is a better kit but not modeled on an historic model. The Privateer kit has a nice hardwood hull that I had trouble getting an electric drill to hole. It also comes in a neat little wood box. I couldn't resist starting to build the model but had to shelve it for a while so it's still in "dry dock". The instruction sheet is excellent. I've collected about six different kits now and these are my favorite. I'm sure you will enjoy this build.
  43. 2 points

    My Goja SIB build

    Nice model. That's difficult to do when the bottle neck is long and the bottle is at an angle. Your ship really fills the whole bottle space . Onni.
  44. 2 points
    Thanks, it is however 3 times larger so I have a lot more room, and your CPA is your priority right now. Really great thread though. As a newbie, it opens your eyes a bit to how things "should" be done. Hopefully I can get it in the bottle O.K.
  45. 2 points

    What else do you model besides SIBs?

    Hey Jeff, you remind me of my brother-in-law. He is on his third telescope as well. It’s quite the beast. He has a van that he hauls it around in and he has to put it together as it comes in sections. Once I tried to ask him how much he paid for it and he declined to say so I am assuming it’s a small fortune. We were out one night years ago and we could see the rings around Saturn. Very cool to see God’s creativity up close.
  46. 2 points
  47. 2 points

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    That's some beautiful looking sails you have made John. The time and effort you have put into them has all been worthwhile.
  48. 2 points

    La nina, caravel.

    Hi James, I use one of these for holding small parts. Its basically a pencil with a low tack sticky centre instead of 'lead'. Just sharpen as needed.Costs a couple of Euros. Link to 'pick up pencil' Alan
  49. 2 points

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    Nice one Frankie. I think a lot of British people would find it difficult to remember the actual date of Trafalgar.
  50. 2 points
    After the epoxy resin dried I made waves and foam using clear acrylic gel and white acrylic paint
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