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  1. 12 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Latest work on my James Miller model pair. Finished up all the cabins and deck structures, first two photos show the cabins. Nest two photos show different views of the fife rails that are situated around the 3 masts. This ship had an interesting feature of ratcheting windlasses, they are the black circles just inside the windlass with the small tubes sticking out at 45 degree angle. They would turn the windlass on the down stroke and ratchet freely on the up stroke, wood or metal poles were pushed into the tube ends to operate. Never saw anything like this before and found it an interesting feature to work out in miniature. Fifth photo shows the main anchor barrel windlass, the fore deck capstan for raising the anchor out of the water and the ship's wheel. The last photo shows some of the many attempts I made to manufacture the ship's wheels needed for the two models. The first was made by simply gluing some drawn down bamboo together, then cutting circles from .005" thick styrene plastic, and gluing them to both sides of the "spokes", added a tiny center circle of paper. The second attempt I made using shrink tubing, larger diameter tubing that was shrunk down around a small diameter drill bit shank. The shrinking increased the thickness of the tubing, I then drilled holes and inserted the same bamboo spokes. Both of these methods worked OK, but did not have a decent method to attach to the horizontal "arm" of the entire mechanism. The third and fourth wheels were made by drilling a hole in the end of a piece of apple wood, then sanding the outside to get a thin walled tube. Holes were drilled in the tube near it's end, and the bamboo spokes added. The difference with these was that I made an extremely small diameter tube from apple wood, and glued the spokes to this in the center of the wheel. This gave me the perfect method to mount the wheels. The last wheel shown was made by making up a cross grained plywood from nearly paper thin maple wood, then drilled the holes and adding spokes and center piece. I had tried this earlier, but had difficulty drilling the holes without splitting the wheel. On this final attempt I saturated the inner and outer surface of the wheel before drilling and that seemed to work. Sixth photo shows the 100 apple wood blocks I made for the models. There are 40 double and 60 single blocks, my "guestimate" of the number needed for the two models. The remaining photos show the deck structures on one of the models, non of the structures is permanently mounted at this time, I just placed them as well as I could for the photos. I need to mask off the deck areas to air brush the hull parts, so needed the clear decks to make it easier to tape from cap rail to cap rail for masking. Be happy to answer any questions anyone might have. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  2. 11 points
    Jeff B

    Jeff bs build #3.

    Final product. I cut the port backstay trying to push down the stern into the sea, it was riding too high. I tossed the line over to the starboard side.(the not display side.) i don't know if I'll ever go in and fix the line. I don't think I can.
  3. 11 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Today I share the latest work on the James Miller models. I have completed adding the bobstays, jib boom shrouds and jib boom backstays to both models. The bobstays and shrouds are made from miniature rope, made on a mini rope walk I built a year or so ago, using 3 pieces of 8/0 fly tying thread. The backstays are fake miniature chain, made from 8/0 fly tying thread tied around a #80 drill bit with double overhand knots. To keep the "chain" fairly straight I tied a second piece of thread to the first loop tied, after removing the drill bit from the hole in an 9" long piece of wood, then passing this second thread through a rubber band tightly wrapped around the far end of the wood. Before each new double knot was added, the second line was pulled slightly, so that as the first knot was tied to the next knot it would pull the second line, keeping the knots tied opposite each other to keep the chain straight. As each double knot was tied, the bit was removed from the hole in the wood, and the whole thing repeated endlessly. Second photo shows the completed forecastle area, with everything permanently in place. I also wanted to share that I found some really nice, super fine, fly tying thread. It is labeled and sold as 20 DEN line, and is finer than a human hair. I've used 8/0, 10/0 and 12/0 threads, but they are nearly identical in overall size, but this 20 DEN stuff is a lot smaller/thinner. According to the info at the J. Stockard fly tying company online this line is equivalent to 19/0 thread. It is quite a bit weaker than the other threads mentioned, but works great for wrapping. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  4. 11 points

    Gypsy Moth IV

    After working on HMS Gannet for months felt a need to build something quick and a bit easier. Plumped on Sir Francis Chichester's, 'Gypsy Moth IV' something that I remember from my younger days! Never done a model in an upright bottle before so this was something new for me. (Thanks to Ioan for the idea) From start to finish about 27 days to complete. Split hull design. Carved a new internal stand to allow for the natural curve in the bottle base.
  5. 11 points
    Greetings All, In my attempt to get realism I have been working on some ideas for sails. Rather than printing seam lines on paper, my usual method for making sails, I tried out the idea of using thread sandwiched between layers of very thin paper. It took a number of attempts, using different threads and various papers, until I came up with something I think works quite well. The photos below show first one of the hulls with the stern bulwarks added, with the boat davits, and painted black along with the top of the cap rail. Then for the sails, there are several shots showing my sail jig, with bamboo pins spaced where I want my seam lines to be, then strung with 8/0 white fly tying thread. I kept the thread under some tension, while stringing the jig. Beneath the threads is first a small sheet of .003" thick clear acetate, then a folded sheet of .003" 100% cotton drafting paper, with half the paper under the threads. I found it easier to add threads to the jib after the layer of acetate and paper, rather than slipping them under the threads. I then thinned down PVA white glue with water, and using a soft paint brush I laid down a thin layer of glue over nearly the entire paper, leaving 1/4" unglued near the outside edges. The paper warped a bit, and I had to be careful as the wet threads stretched a little, too much brushing moved them around and out of place. I then folded the other half of the paper over the first half, pressed it down by hand, then added another acetate sheet and finally a couple of "C" clamps to hold it all together. Over several attempts I found that too much clamp pressure flattened it all to the point where the ever so slight height difference over the threads completely disappeared, which ruined the effect. I finally found just the right clamping pressure to get the desired results. The last few photos show some completed sails, not easy to detect the seam lines on those, but the later photos show some of the sails installed, and the running rigging added, and here the seam lines seem just right to me. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox iII
  6. 11 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Finally got the hull air brushed, flat black upper hull and copper lower hull. The cap rail is still white as I have to add solid railings and boat davits before painting the rails black. Next we have the ship's boat for one model. There were two made, one for each model, using cigarette papers over a bone mold. The ribs and cap rail are plastic, the floor boards and thwarts are made from light and dark apple wood. The blocks have been added to hang the boat. Then we have the spars with their blocks attached. I try to add all the blocks and tackle to the individual parts before installation as space is restricted once they are installed. Last, but not least, are the four anchors for the two models. They were made by cutting and sanding 0.02" thick brass sheet, then adding apple wood and black thread to finish them off.
  7. 10 points
    Starting a new build The Golden Swan based on the 1588 English Galleon as pictured in Wolfram Zu Mondfeld book "Historic Ship Models" The hull is carved from sourwood. Usually I use Holly but wanted to try a different wood. The deck will be spit from the hull so the ship will be in two pieces so it can be placed in the bottle when done. I am building her in between sessions with my Cutty Sark that I am also building. Here is a picture of The Cutty Sark I am working on. Too big to fit in a bottle.
  8. 10 points
    I started with the main sail. The first thing I did was to get the paper ready. There are a lot of different methods for coloring paper, coffee, tea, or paint works. I've found a very light staining of golden oak gives a good weathered effect. I wipe off the excess on the edges and lightly stain the middle. From there I traced out the sail against the model. I like to give a wind filled look which means making the sails a little bigger than they are in the plans. Once its cut to size I draw on the details. I find a light board works well for this. You can go with out though. I used the light board to match up the reefing lines. If the wind is to strong the sailors would bring in the sails. These lines are where sail would shortened to. Once the first are on flip it over on the light box and trace the other side. After that I work on the sail panels. It would be almost impossible to weave together whole sails, they are far to big. So they wove together panels that were sewn together. Some one could probably find the general width of sail panels and get them all to scale but its not needed. I chose a width that looked good and went with 3mm apart. I marked the bottom edge with a line every three millimeters. Then drew a line parallel to the edge next to the mast. Once that was done I flipped it over on the light box and traced the other side. Then it was time to draw on the ties. When a sail is reefed ties on the sale are used to tie it down to the boom. I make these ties by putting a little "s" mark on each panel. Make sure to do both sides. Then I curl the sail. This is what gives the wind filled look. Take the sail between a pen or dowel and your thumb then pull it through. This will curl the sail slightly. Make sure to choose which tack you want at this point. Then glue the sail to the gaff and boom. Technically there would be hoops the connect it to the mast but I'm leaving those out.
  9. 10 points
    Garry M

    Newly hooked

    Hi all After a time of ‘will I or won’t I’, I have finally embarked on my bottled ship voyage. I have enjoyed reading your posts and look forward to learning some of the many secrets associated with this skilled craft. I have completed two ‘trial’ builds which have been the catalyst for my embarking on this journey.
  10. 10 points
    An example of the frame method.
  11. 10 points
    When it comes to trimming lines there is a special tool I use that makes for a really close cut. Follicle clippers from the grocery store. They run around $8. Note how straight the edge is and that it cuts off to the side. I can place that edge right on the shroud and cut the ratline super close with out cutting the shroud line. To show this look at how close the ratlines are cut at the edges of the shrouds. Something to note with these clippers. Treat the like your mothers sewing scissors. Once you use them for anything but thread the edges get bent and they will not cut thread cleanly. I have an old pair I use for wire and a new pair I use for thread. When I buy a new pair I mark my thread ones as my wire ones and throw out the oldest pair. I use these for cutting all of my lines specifically because I can control exactly where I make my cuts.
  12. 10 points
    For the rest of the bowsprit whittle out a really thin piece of bamboo cut it to size from the plans and then taper the end. With a pencil mark where the end of where the two bowsprit pieces overlap. Then glue them together. I got some 8/0 fly tying thread and tied a knot around one end of where the bowsprit pieces connect. Then I wrapped that thread around glued it down tied it off glued the knot and cut off the ends. It will look like this. Then I did the same on the other end. Now its ready for the bobstay. The bobstay strengthens the bowsprit even at this scale. I've had ships where I put on the forestay before the bobstay and the whole bowsprit bent upwards and almost broke. The bobstay keeps the bowsprit straight when the forestays are pulling on it. First drill a hole in the keel. The plans shows where this stay will connect. Then tie a knot on the bowsprit and run the line through the keel. Glue the knot down and put a dab of glue on the line your about to pull through the keel then pull it through. Once that sets tie it off glue the knots and cut off the excess. Now its time for some forestays. First tie a thread block. See the video above. The hole of the block should be wide enough for your thread. I used wire instead of a needle for this one. Tie the thread block to the bowsprit. So that I don't run into forestays as I complete them, I'm starting with the inner most one. Tie the thread block on with the block facing upwards. Tie it and glue it as usual. Now for a little more added realism I tied a slip knot around the mast just above the lower cheek. I tightened the knot until it looked right leaving it slightly loose. I glued the knot down and put a dab of glue where the line connects with the back of the mast. Cut off the excess and then thread the other end of the line through the thread block. Note this line should be long as it runs out of the bottle.
  13. 10 points
    Time to get into the rigging. First thing I start with is the back stays. There's a lot of different methods for this. Use what ever method works best for you. This method has worked for me. Typically I create a channel specifically for the backstays and glue it onto the channel where the stays connect to the ship. Since I mismeasured a tad my ship is a little to wide for that. So I drilled my holes through the existing channels. When drilling these holes be careful not to make them to wide or to close together. They need to be wide enough for the thread but not much more. I'll explain why at the end. The backstays will be created using a single piece of thread. Pass the thread through through the channel and up through the gap in the two masts. Then done to the holes in the channel on the other side. The thread will pass down one hole and up the next. Then it will run up to the gap in the mast and down to the first channel. In this way the thread weaves back and for between the two channels and through the mast. Once you go through the last hole tie a stopping not, put a dab of glue on it and pull it into the channel. This is where the size of the holes and length between them matters. You can easily pull the thread out between the two holes if they are to close or the wood isn't strong enough. This is partially why I like having a separate glued on channel. If it breaks it can be cut off and remade. Its not so easy with the longer channel. It also looks more accurate. I tied two to make it thick enough and you can see I missed once. No worries that piece will be cut off. Once the stopper not is in place, pull on the other end of the string to tighten up the lines. Keep in mind that with the folding method the tension on the backstays will set the rake or angle of the mast. Tighten up the lines to get the right mast angle. Then on the loose end I put a little glue on the thread and pull it through the channel. This helps keep the tension right as I tie it off. Once the glue sets I tie a knot around the channel, glue it down and cut off the excess. This is the result. My thread is more frayed than I like but hopefully a little more wax will cure that. The forests thread is temporary for now. One more set of backstays will go up to the top mast but after that we move on to the fore stays.
  14. 10 points

    Lydia Eva Steam Drifter

    Hi All, I attended the EASIB bi-annual convention last weekend, and had a thoroughly good time chatting with other members, seeing their SIBS and the evening meal for the presentations. It was held in Great Yarmouth, Norfolk on the East Coast of England. It also coincided with the Great Yarmouth Maritime Festival. The quayside had a selection of nautical themed exhibits, historical re-enactment by the local ‘militia’ demonstrating muskets etc, folk singers/groups singing sea shanties, and a few vessels to go aboard and look round, one of which was the Lydia Eva. The large herring fleet had made the town the major herring port in the world in the early part of the 20th century. Built in 1930 and based in Great Yarmouth, Lydia Eva fished along the East Coast and North Sea for nine years. The Royal Air Force brought her in 1939, using her in a variety of roles until she she laid up in 1969. She was acquired by the Trust in 1971/2 and restored as a floating museum in Great Yarmouth. Lydia Eva joined the Maritime Trust's national collection of vessels in London's St. Katherine 's Dock in 1986 but was laid up again in 1990 and eventually returned to East Anglia when the Lydia Eva Charitable Trust Ltd was formed She is listed as part of the National Historic Fleet and there is fair web coverage. Lydia Eva was suggested as the SIB to model for the convention, so I set to. I couldn’t find a set of drawings for Lydia Eva, but I did have a set for Ocean Unity from a copy of Model Shipwright. This was of a similar style, so with a bit of electronic shrink and grow, a reasonable set of lines was obtained. The differences were obtained from photos from various websites. I aimed for a SIB at about 1/250. The Hull Block Hull being formed Cap rail being fitted SIB primed, bulwark interior painted and ribbing being fitted. Wheelhouse being constructed Then I got a new laptop and 'lost' some phots during the data changeover so straight to the finished SIB. And then this at the evening presentations - well pleased. best Alan
  15. 10 points
    And the next stage - I placed the underwater part of the hull in a bottle, poured silicone, formed a ripple and foam from acrylic gel and white paint.
  16. 10 points
    JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    Thanks guys, praise from the praiseworthy is worth all reward! I was unhappy with the rake of the masts so I softened the white glue holding the channels to the hull on the Fore and the Mizzen using rubbing alcohol. I wasn’t sure it would be possible but it litteraly softened the glue faster than it takes to write this paragraph. Then I reglued and I’m much happier now. tonight I put on the topsails. I ALWAYS depict square sails braced hard over, I think it looks more exciting. Even if I was going to build a ship bare-polled, I’d probably still brace up the yards.
  17. 10 points

    HMS Gannet

    Some of the armament that I may use; Nordenfelt machine guns on fo'c'sle,64pdr muzzle loaders on main deck and two Armstrong guns on the poop deck. A lot of the items I may or may not use as a full deck can look a bit cluttered . Added the hammock netting which is on the top of the bulwarks (indicated by the badly drawn arrow!)
  18. 10 points
    For masts I use bamboo. I like it for its durability and because its in expensive. A package of bamboo scewers runs around $3 and holds enough for several ships. I cut my bamboo in section long ways and use a drawplate to get smaller round sections. I then put these pieces in a drill to smooth them out and add a bit of taper. Tapering masts and yards really adds to the realism and doesn't take to much extra time. As a cautionary note, don't spin wood in dremels. They spin way to fast and very often the wood gets off center and becomes a projectile. Drills are slower and safer. Once I have the mast cut down and sanded I measure it up to the plans and cut it to size. The same process applies to the top mast except its cut down even smaller. From here I cut a couple small blocks. And glue then where the mast doublings are on the plans. I then glue the top mast to these blocks. This creates a small space between the masts which is cteated by the cross trees. From here I cut out some strips of paper and stain them with wood stain. The paper is glued on and wrapped around the mast creating the cross trees. This also helps hold the two pieces together. For this ship I'll be using the hinge method. It's a great place to start on ship in bottle building. To make the hing drill a small hole in the base of the mast, insert a piece of wire and bend it down. Drill a couple holes for either side of the hinge where the mast will be placed on deck. Then trim the wire until it hits the bottom of the holes at about the point the bottom of the mast just touches the deck. Glue the wire in place. Test the hinge to make sure it works well. This is a good opportunity to test how well the ship fits in the bottle. The mast works fine but my channels are a bit to wide. Gotta fix that. One more note on masts. I typically don't drill a lot of holes in masts. The holes can easily cause the mast to break. Thinner masts look more realistic but are more fragile. To keep them strong I will be using knots to put on the yards. How ever for this build there is one more hole needed in the mast. It goes where the boom connects to the mast and will help with rigging the boom.
  19. 10 points
    Time to put some cannons in. Going back to the concept of putting together shapes a cannon consists of a cylinder sitting on a rectangle. For the cylinder I opened up an old cell phone charger cable and pulled out the black wire. For the rectangle I found a nice dark veneer and cut strips. I still had to thin it a bit to fit the cannons in the gun ports. Good to be aware of sizing on this part. Here it is with all the carriages glued in. If you can get a hold of or build this tool I highly recomend it. It really helps keep my length cuts consistent. Here it is with cannons. One of the last parts the hull needs is the channelsnfor the rigging. This is the piece chain plates and deadeys attach to on real ships. For this I cut a piece of veneer, drilled four holes and glued it to the side of the hull where the backstays will attach. This piece will be used for those back stays. Starting to get into masts and rigging. More to come.
  20. 10 points


    Continuation Artur
  21. 10 points
    Now for some deck furniture. Before I start I'd like to point out that the technique I use I learned from John Fox III. He told me to break down the objects into their individual shapes. For instance when you look at a cannon the main shapes are a cylinder that sits on a rectangular box. By breaking down the shapes of objects it makes them easier to model at a small scale. One other note. One thing I do starting out with deck furniture is mark where the mast is going. You don't want to put a hatch or a deck house right where the mast is supposed to be. So I put a small pencil mark where the mast will be. The first piece I'll work on for this ship is the helm. Breaking down the shapes for this helm, it will have a rectangular box that holds the helm and a circular object that is the helm. The box is easy enough I cut a piece of wood into a tiny box that fits the size I want and glue it in place. The circular piece it harder. It's hard to get circles small enough to fit the scale. One of the great techniques of ship in bottle building though is to use found objects that fit the pieces you need. Just as old sailors used bottles and wood scraps that were otherwise garbage on the ship, there is often objects lying around that can work for ships in bottles. One technique I like a lot for helms is going down to the watch repair store and asking for spare gears. Watch gears make very good helms. We'll cover found objects more when I get to the cannons. If you don't have access to a watch store there is another method that can be done with string. Take a piece of string and tie loose knot. Then slowly tighten that knot into a loop that is the size of the helm. Glue it down and trim off the edges. Any left over edges glue into the circle so you have a nice round piece of string. Then the piece of string is glued on to the rectangular box that holds up the helm. One thing to keep in mind is you don't need a perfect helm. With the location and size chances are no one will even notice how the helm is modeled. When it comes to modeling ships this size the details can be left out. Often I find the mind has a way of recognizing the shapes and filling in the details. So how far you take those details is up to you. Personally I like the challenge. In reality you could glue in the rectangular box with no helm and chances are no one would know the difference. Moving forward I modeled a small deck house. It's more of a raised hatch on this ship. The picture below is a good example of what this looks like and the Bermuda sloop deck in general. The hatch just forward of the helm is made up of a box with a tilted top. This top stick out over the edges slightly. So to model it I cut a piece of wood into a box, sand the top down and glue on some paper strips on top. Then with a pencil I made a mark for the hinges. Looking at this photo know I think I have the helm in the wrong place. All well it's already glued in. Another important tip. You are the captain of this ship and things go where you want them to go. You can follow my instructions or do it your own way. What ever makes you the captain the happiest with your work. After the deck house I put in a couple hatches. I can't remember if this is a Jim Goodwin technique or a Greg Alvey technique. I learned it from one of them. Any way, first I find some plans for hatches. I googled it and found some that I pasted into word and copied and resized the photo to a lot of various sizes. With the varied sizes I can makes hatches for a variety of ships by printing one page of hatches. The word file I used for this ship is attached. Once I have the hatches printed I turn the page over and lightly stain the back of the page. That way the ink doesn't run. The wood stain gives it a wood color and the ink makes it look like a hatch. Then I cut out the hatch and glue it on the hull. For this I use white glue. This allows me plenty of time to put the hatch in position. If you use super glue and the hatch goes down crooked it becomes a big mess. hatch.docx
  22. 10 points
    Finally, I set up on places the Old Man himself, the paddles and the basket with a pair of fish.
  23. 10 points


    Hi guys! Believe or not, first idea to make a SIB came to me about 30-35 years ago when bought a book in Polish: Flota butelkowa. Means A Bottle Fleet. And started to do a three mast schooner at that time. Finished it two years ago. It nice and quite hobby which demands a lot of skills. I believe that you agree with me, don’t you? Well… few weeks ago finished my second model (see pic) and going to do next. Hope that you will give advices along my job and we will have fun together. New project is a stage of crystallisation. ?
  24. 10 points

    My first SIB: Dimond

    Thank you, Arup! Thank you, Mr. S., taking a look at what I'm doing here. I'm quite honored to read your opinion of what I've accomplished. I have a cork for the bottle but it needs to be sized to fit. However, I'm not going to let that get in the way of posting this!
  25. 9 points

    HMS Terror

    Had to check how she looks stuck in the ice!
  26. 9 points
    Then I installed the mast, pulled up the rigging gear, added some small details and flooded the third layer of the sea
  27. 9 points
    Then I connected all the parts of the boat on the slipway
  28. 9 points

    HMS Terror

    I like to use matt black spray paint as it dries in just a few minutes so you don't have to wait around for it to dry for an age.Marked out the deck and drilled holes where I want the masts and bowsprit to go.The veneer deck will go in as one solid piece. Will carry on with the construction of the masts and slicing the hull into four sections so that all the pieces will be able to go through the bottle neck without any struggle.Masts and bowsprit constructed with a little help from styrene.They will be sprayed matt white.
  29. 9 points

    My Goja SIB build

    Since I decided to revive my interest in ship in the bottle builds, I revisited my original first kit builds from the “Ships A Sailin’” line from the 1970’s. My first ever build was their “Lively Lady” and my second ever build was another of their kits. I pulled out the instruction sheet that I still have from this series which has no identification for the ship on it. For many years I was under the impression that this build was their “Skeeter” but after finding an old kit for sale I realized that I had actually built their “Goja”. I first started to perfunctorily build this ship accordingly to the dimensions I had on the instruction sheet when I remembered that I was never quite pleased with my first result. I had given this build away as a gift so I no longer had it for reference. I looked at the squat dimensions of the whole ship on the instruction sheet and the cautionary words that the model had been modified to adapt it to the bottle when I wondered if this was actually a historical representation. At the time I had no idea what the “Goja” was, my “Lively Lady” certainly wasn’t a historically accurate ship so I assumed that this was another fanciful creation. After a cursory investigation, I was hooked. The “Goja” is the ship that Norwegian Explorer Roald Amundsen sailed to make the first successful voyage across the North West Passage in 1906. The ship still exists today in a museum in Fram, Norway and previously had spent many years in a park in San Francisco, Ca so it is well documented and photographed. I managed to find a sail and rigging plan and pulled up a few photos to help me get as historically close to the ship as possible. I even watched a video documentary about the Arctic Explorers and the quest to find the North West Passage. After Amundsen completed the passage, he landed in Alaska and had to Nordic ski 500 miles just to send a telegraph to announce his completion. I was so impressed with this story I decided I had to do this model due diligence and effort. I didn’t want to end up with a “bottle with a ship model in it” I wanted a “ship model that happened to be encased in a glass bottle” instead. I found a nice bottle in my collection that complemented the dimensions of the plan although it was a bit challenging to work in. I tried to match the color scheme of the hull, I made a nice suit of sails from cloth instead of paper (I really prefer the cloth sails to paper now), I took some care with trying to make a flat Arctic sea with ice floes and an Arctic tundra backdrop and I sealed the bottle with a Scandinavian coin (OK, it’s Swedish, not Norwegian and it isn’t from 1906 but it looks cool) and made another “decorative braid” knot for the neck. I even tried my hand at a miniature Norwegian flag to fly from its ensign line. Had I had the presence of mind, I would have made a Norwegian flag of the banner but the flag was an afterthought. Most of these details are not visible in the photograph. After it was completed it struck me how the bottle mounted on its side mimics the silhouette of the ship with the neck being its prow. So here it is, my homage to Roald Amundsen, my eighth ever SIB.
  30. 9 points
    This next part has a lot of options all depending on how detailed you want to go. If you want to keep it simple leave off the topsails all together. In higher winds these would have been removed and it looks fine with out them. Here's an example. If you want to add more detail though the top sails look great. To put on the yard arms use the cow hitch and tie the yards to the mast. Running rigging will be used to keep the yards straight. There's a lot of options on this part as well. The Bermuda sloop is interesting because the running rigging is rigged forward instead of aftward like most bigger ships. This picture is a great example. For my ship I decided to rig the top two yards on the same lines. This is somewhat more advanced but it shows the type of things you can do in rigging ships. First you'll need a few thread blocks. One just behind the middle thread block on the bowsprit, one on the stay line at about the same height as the cross trees, two on the ends of the middle yard arm. Here you can see where the running rigging is going to go. Start it at the ends of the top yard arm, run it through the thread block on the stay line, then through the thread blocks on the middle yard arm, then through the thread block on the bowsprit. There's a trick you can do on this part. Its less realistic but reduces the lines coming out of the bottle. Tie the running lines to the end of the top yard arm, then pull them through the thread block on the stay line, last tie the ends to the middle yard arm and cut them off. Letting the lines slide through the thread block you can adjust the tack of of the yardarms. If you want to go more realistic run the lines down to the bowsprit then drill a couple holes through the hull just behind the front bulwark and on either side of where the bowsprit attaches to the deck. Run the lines through these holes and under the ship. The advantage to this method is you don't have to be precise in cutting these lines because they will be under the sea. For the bottom yard tie lines to the end and through the same block on the bowsprit and then back to the holes in the hull. At this point the ship is ready for sails.
  31. 9 points
    Now we move on to the boom. Remember the hole we drilled in the mast while putting it together? This is where its used. You could use a thread block for this as well but since near the base of the mast, where it is thickest, I determined a hole would be fine. Tie a line to the end of the boom that will be next to the mast. That line will go through the hole in the mast and out of the bottle. The idea is the boom will be able to separate from the ship and allow the sail to roll up. Since I'm planning paper sails this is important to the sails don't crumple up. From here I tied a couple thread blocks on the other end of the boom. As I simplified the rigging I found you only need one. This is where the rigging on the plans can differ from the rigging on a ship in bottle. With some effort you can copy the rigging in the plans exactly. This is supposed to be a simple model though so I'm going use a mixture of planned rigging and simplified ship in bottle rigging. According to the plans there is some blocks on the transom that help control the boom. I made a small eye bolt for this block and glued it in a hole drilled into the transom. I did two on either side of the Windows. You can do one in the middle as well. I suspect the actual ships would have two so they can quickly adjust the boom while tacking. I decided to use two for mine but one central eyebolt would work. Here's another place I differ from the plans. It appears on the plan that the line runs from the block at the transom to the block at the end of the boom, back to the transom block, then back to the boom block then it runs to the bulwark. I initially tried this but I couldn't pull the lines tight very easily. The added lines add a lot of strength on the real ship at a point that holds a lot of pressure. This isn't needed on a ship in bottle so I reduced the number of lines running back and forth. I tied the first line to the thread block on the boom, ran it through the transom block, back to the boom block then to the hole drilled in the bulwark. With one less line it pulls tight more smoothly. The line going in the bulwarks then runs out of the bottle. It will be tightened and glued down after the ship is in the bottle. If you only have one block in the transom you only have to do this once. I opted for putting lines on either side. One more part that differs from the plans. Technically there is separate lines used to pull the gaff tight and life the boom up. This can be consolidated by tying a line from the gaff to the boom. This also tightens up all of the lines. You can see how the yards will be set at this point.
  32. 9 points
    My second acquired SIB – Robin Hood’s Bay in an Aspirin Bottle Here I present the second SIB that came into my life. In the 1960’s a local department store had a line of SIBs available that were made in Robin Hood’s Bay, England. One day as a child I had the privilege of watching a demonstration in the store where a fellow from England was inserting a model into a bottle and erecting its masts by the magical “pulling on strings”. This modest example appeared under the Christmas tree that year for me to enjoy. The end cap has a label which is missing a piece which gives the exact origin as “ [Ship?] Models, Robin Hood’s Bay, England”. The model is a statement of elegant simplicity. The bottle is of the type that aspirin commonly came in back then and measures 3 7/8” x 2”x 1”. The ship is a full square rigged three masted clipper with sails made from paper. The hull is simple and it is simply rigged with a shroud for each mast and one stay connecting the mast to the bowsprit which acted as the “magic string”. Notably the masts are not hinged to the deck and may have been pushed into place into little groves in the deck and then glued down after they were raised. Its little pendants are flying straight ahead showing the direction of the wind into its tiny sails. It’s a neat little keepsake and I’ve had it for over 50 years.
  33. 9 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, I now have the fore mast added to the ship in light bulb model of James Miller. All the fore stays, shrouds and backstays have been added, as well as all the headsails and all their rigging. The two jib sails are static, They do not move with the stays they are attached to, they are attached by small open loops so that the stay can move through the sail, since the stays for those sails runs through the jib and martingale spike, then into the hull and is the operating end of these lines. The fore sail does move with the stays, as in this case they are double, one on each side of the bowsprit, running through the bees and back into the hull, these are also the operating ends of the stays.I learned a lesson with the foremast, in that I added all the running rigging before adding the shrouds and ratlines, which was a mistake as it made adding the shrouds much more difficult with all the running rigging lines being so light in color they kept getting accidentally tied into the shrouds. The cabin and hatch are also permanently attached now. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  34. 9 points
    James w rogers

    La nina, caravel.

    Back to it after a bit of a break, (after trying to fathom out whatever posessed me to make it so small and fiddly!) 😂 it's time to 'try' and rig it. Off to a slow start, but it's a start nonetheless! 😂
  35. 9 points
    And a few final photos...
  36. 9 points

    Bottled Ship Wright Journal

    Ladies and Gentlemen, attached is our first edition! Enjoy...Jeff The Bottled Shipwright.pdf
  37. 9 points
    For some of the next parts I'm going to use what called a thread block. John Fox III has created an excellent video demonstrating how this works. This thread block is part of how I get away with thinner, somewhat closer to scale masts and yards. The smaller the dowels get the harder it is to drill holes and the holes compromise the integrity of the mast and yards. Tying thread blocks creates places for lines to pass with out compromising the strength of the mast and yards.
  38. 9 points
    JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    I got Ramillies into the bottle this morning! Whew. It’s late October. In fact it’s the anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar today here in 2018 ! You will recall that HMS Ramillies commander at the Battle of Stonington was a very significant figure at Trafalgar so I’m very pleased I got her into the bottle on this day. I’m too cheap to turn my heat on yet so this means my plasticine sea is not amenable to grabbing onto the models hull. So I’ve not reached the end of the project but this is a good point to stop and photograph and post. Happy Trafalgar Day everyone.
  39. 9 points

    HMS Gannet

    Foremast in place and glued. In the first picture note the white loops at the top of the mast used to pull through the boom and jib ropes. (Not sure if those are the correct terms.) Picture two, here I am trying to evenly tighten the back stays together. Capstan fixed in place and also the Arab Dhowl sailing on the starboard side.Port side forecastle in but not glued yet because have to wait until both sides are in before I can fix them together.
  40. 9 points

    HMS Gannet

    Mast in place,after rigging is tightened added binnacle etc ,screw raising pulley and guns.
  41. 9 points
    I present the reports from the World Championships in Romania. I won a silver medal for the Western River model. Artur
  42. 9 points
    JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    The hull I’ve carved from some species of wood that smells a LOT like cedar. Maybe it IS cedar? I had a block lying around. Nice tight grain. Smells good. Masts. I’ve grown impatient with wood for masts in SIBs. To get the wood to scale you wind up with some VERY fragile spars. I got sick of snapping them and now use brass rod and piano wire. This necessitates soldering the components and I’m the WORST at soldering. But the metal masts NEVER break and I can drill through them. You’ll notice a second bottle prepped. I’m building two SIBs at once but this build lib focuses only on the 74.
  43. 9 points

    HMS Gannet

    but then other times they do go better...My original sea looked pretty bland but with a bit of acrylic paints, big improvement?
  44. 9 points


    Continuation Artur
  45. 9 points

    Pirate type Galleon

    She's been a brain bruiser up until now. I actually expect more trouble with the rigging when trying to pack her through the bottle opening. Its like a series of puzzles all wrapped up into a ship in a bottle. The work you guys do is really inspiring, awesome tips and tricks and I appreciate you freely sharing with us newbies.
  46. 9 points
    Then I put the mast and pulled the rigging.
  47. 9 points
    James w rogers

    Started build no.2

    So far it is officially the largest ship I’ve ever built!? next to the smallest. long ways to go yet. Not looking forward to carving the figurehead.
  48. 9 points
    And, finally, I moved the crew to the boat
  49. 9 points
    James w rogers

    Ahoy shipmates!

    Thanks for the add to your great forum, been admiring all your great work and decided to have a go myself. So here is my first attempt, Bit rough round the edges but it’s been a head scratching experience to say the least! Bigger bottle next time I think!
  50. 9 points

    My first SIB: Dimond

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