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  1. 12 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Latest work on my James Miller model pair. Finished up all the cabins and deck structures, first two photos show the cabins. Nest two photos show different views of the fife rails that are situated around the 3 masts. This ship had an interesting feature of ratcheting windlasses, they are the black circles just inside the windlass with the small tubes sticking out at 45 degree angle. They would turn the windlass on the down stroke and ratchet freely on the up stroke, wood or metal poles were pushed into the tube ends to operate. Never saw anything like this before and found it an interesting feature to work out in miniature. Fifth photo shows the main anchor barrel windlass, the fore deck capstan for raising the anchor out of the water and the ship's wheel. The last photo shows some of the many attempts I made to manufacture the ship's wheels needed for the two models. The first was made by simply gluing some drawn down bamboo together, then cutting circles from .005" thick styrene plastic, and gluing them to both sides of the "spokes", added a tiny center circle of paper. The second attempt I made using shrink tubing, larger diameter tubing that was shrunk down around a small diameter drill bit shank. The shrinking increased the thickness of the tubing, I then drilled holes and inserted the same bamboo spokes. Both of these methods worked OK, but did not have a decent method to attach to the horizontal "arm" of the entire mechanism. The third and fourth wheels were made by drilling a hole in the end of a piece of apple wood, then sanding the outside to get a thin walled tube. Holes were drilled in the tube near it's end, and the bamboo spokes added. The difference with these was that I made an extremely small diameter tube from apple wood, and glued the spokes to this in the center of the wheel. This gave me the perfect method to mount the wheels. The last wheel shown was made by making up a cross grained plywood from nearly paper thin maple wood, then drilled the holes and adding spokes and center piece. I had tried this earlier, but had difficulty drilling the holes without splitting the wheel. On this final attempt I saturated the inner and outer surface of the wheel before drilling and that seemed to work. Sixth photo shows the 100 apple wood blocks I made for the models. There are 40 double and 60 single blocks, my "guestimate" of the number needed for the two models. The remaining photos show the deck structures on one of the models, non of the structures is permanently mounted at this time, I just placed them as well as I could for the photos. I need to mask off the deck areas to air brush the hull parts, so needed the clear decks to make it easier to tape from cap rail to cap rail for masking. Be happy to answer any questions anyone might have. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  2. 11 points
    DSiemens

    Ship in Bottle Repair

    Well I had my first opportunity at ship in bottle repair. It was entirely different than I expected I'd do with a ship in bottle repair but I got it back together. I should have got a picture before I got it back together but when the gentlemen brought it over the mizzen main sail was floating around the bottle totally detached. I had to maneuver it in place and glue it down. Took two hours but I did it. Funny thing with glass ships. There no wiggle room.
  3. 11 points
    Jeff B

    Jeff bs build #3.

    Final product. I cut the port backstay trying to push down the stern into the sea, it was riding too high. I tossed the line over to the starboard side.(the not display side.) i don't know if I'll ever go in and fix the line. I don't think I can.
  4. 11 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Today I share the latest work on the James Miller models. I have completed adding the bobstays, jib boom shrouds and jib boom backstays to both models. The bobstays and shrouds are made from miniature rope, made on a mini rope walk I built a year or so ago, using 3 pieces of 8/0 fly tying thread. The backstays are fake miniature chain, made from 8/0 fly tying thread tied around a #80 drill bit with double overhand knots. To keep the "chain" fairly straight I tied a second piece of thread to the first loop tied, after removing the drill bit from the hole in an 9" long piece of wood, then passing this second thread through a rubber band tightly wrapped around the far end of the wood. Before each new double knot was added, the second line was pulled slightly, so that as the first knot was tied to the next knot it would pull the second line, keeping the knots tied opposite each other to keep the chain straight. As each double knot was tied, the bit was removed from the hole in the wood, and the whole thing repeated endlessly. Second photo shows the completed forecastle area, with everything permanently in place. I also wanted to share that I found some really nice, super fine, fly tying thread. It is labeled and sold as 20 DEN line, and is finer than a human hair. I've used 8/0, 10/0 and 12/0 threads, but they are nearly identical in overall size, but this 20 DEN stuff is a lot smaller/thinner. According to the info at the J. Stockard fly tying company online this line is equivalent to 19/0 thread. It is quite a bit weaker than the other threads mentioned, but works great for wrapping. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  5. 11 points
    Onni

    Gypsy Moth IV

    After working on HMS Gannet for months felt a need to build something quick and a bit easier. Plumped on Sir Francis Chichester's, 'Gypsy Moth IV' something that I remember from my younger days! Never done a model in an upright bottle before so this was something new for me. (Thanks to Ioan for the idea) From start to finish about 27 days to complete. Split hull design. Carved a new internal stand to allow for the natural curve in the bottle base.
  6. 11 points
    Greetings All, In my attempt to get realism I have been working on some ideas for sails. Rather than printing seam lines on paper, my usual method for making sails, I tried out the idea of using thread sandwiched between layers of very thin paper. It took a number of attempts, using different threads and various papers, until I came up with something I think works quite well. The photos below show first one of the hulls with the stern bulwarks added, with the boat davits, and painted black along with the top of the cap rail. Then for the sails, there are several shots showing my sail jig, with bamboo pins spaced where I want my seam lines to be, then strung with 8/0 white fly tying thread. I kept the thread under some tension, while stringing the jig. Beneath the threads is first a small sheet of .003" thick clear acetate, then a folded sheet of .003" 100% cotton drafting paper, with half the paper under the threads. I found it easier to add threads to the jib after the layer of acetate and paper, rather than slipping them under the threads. I then thinned down PVA white glue with water, and using a soft paint brush I laid down a thin layer of glue over nearly the entire paper, leaving 1/4" unglued near the outside edges. The paper warped a bit, and I had to be careful as the wet threads stretched a little, too much brushing moved them around and out of place. I then folded the other half of the paper over the first half, pressed it down by hand, then added another acetate sheet and finally a couple of "C" clamps to hold it all together. Over several attempts I found that too much clamp pressure flattened it all to the point where the ever so slight height difference over the threads completely disappeared, which ruined the effect. I finally found just the right clamping pressure to get the desired results. The last few photos show some completed sails, not easy to detect the seam lines on those, but the later photos show some of the sails installed, and the running rigging added, and here the seam lines seem just right to me. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox iII
  7. 11 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Finally got the hull air brushed, flat black upper hull and copper lower hull. The cap rail is still white as I have to add solid railings and boat davits before painting the rails black. Next we have the ship's boat for one model. There were two made, one for each model, using cigarette papers over a bone mold. The ribs and cap rail are plastic, the floor boards and thwarts are made from light and dark apple wood. The blocks have been added to hang the boat. Then we have the spars with their blocks attached. I try to add all the blocks and tackle to the individual parts before installation as space is restricted once they are installed. Last, but not least, are the four anchors for the two models. They were made by cutting and sanding 0.02" thick brass sheet, then adding apple wood and black thread to finish them off.
  8. 10 points
    Starting a new build The Golden Swan based on the 1588 English Galleon as pictured in Wolfram Zu Mondfeld book "Historic Ship Models" The hull is carved from sourwood. Usually I use Holly but wanted to try a different wood. The deck will be spit from the hull so the ship will be in two pieces so it can be placed in the bottle when done. I am building her in between sessions with my Cutty Sark that I am also building. Here is a picture of The Cutty Sark I am working on. Too big to fit in a bottle.
  9. 10 points
    John Zuch

    My "Waterwitch"

    Like you I to used Jack Needham's book for my model of the Waterwitch
  10. 10 points
    Lubber123

    My Goja SIB build

    Since I decided to revive my interest in ship in the bottle builds, I revisited my original first kit builds from the “Ships A Sailin’” line from the 1970’s. My first ever build was their “Lively Lady” and my second ever build was another of their kits. I pulled out the instruction sheet that I still have from this series which has no identification for the ship on it. For many years I was under the impression that this build was their “Skeeter” but after finding an old kit for sale I realized that I had actually built their “Goja”. I first started to perfunctorily build this ship accordingly to the dimensions I had on the instruction sheet when I remembered that I was never quite pleased with my first result. I had given this build away as a gift so I no longer had it for reference. I looked at the squat dimensions of the whole ship on the instruction sheet and the cautionary words that the model had been modified to adapt it to the bottle when I wondered if this was actually a historical representation. At the time I had no idea what the “Goja” was, my “Lively Lady” certainly wasn’t a historically accurate ship so I assumed that this was another fanciful creation. After a cursory investigation, I was hooked. The “Goja” is the ship that Norwegian Explorer Roald Amundsen sailed to make the first successful voyage across the North West Passage in 1906. The ship still exists today in a museum in Fram, Norway and previously had spent many years in a park in San Francisco, Ca so it is well documented and photographed. I managed to find a sail and rigging plan and pulled up a few photos to help me get as historically close to the ship as possible. I even watched a video documentary about the Arctic Explorers and the quest to find the North West Passage. After Amundsen completed the passage, he landed in Alaska and had to Nordic ski 500 miles just to send a telegraph to announce his completion. I was so impressed with this story I decided I had to do this model due diligence and effort. I didn’t want to end up with a “bottle with a ship model in it” I wanted a “ship model that happened to be encased in a glass bottle” instead. I found a nice bottle in my collection that complemented the dimensions of the plan although it was a bit challenging to work in. I tried to match the color scheme of the hull, I made a nice suit of sails from cloth instead of paper (I really prefer the cloth sails to paper now), I took some care with trying to make a flat Arctic sea with ice floes and an Arctic tundra backdrop and I sealed the bottle with a Scandinavian coin (OK, it’s Swedish, not Norwegian and it isn’t from 1906 but it looks cool) and made another “decorative braid” knot for the neck. I even tried my hand at a miniature Norwegian flag to fly from its ensign line. Had I had the presence of mind, I would have made a Norwegian flag of the banner but the flag was an afterthought. Most of these details are not visible in the photograph. After it was completed it struck me how the bottle mounted on its side mimics the silhouette of the ship with the neck being its prow. So here it is, my homage to Roald Amundsen, my eighth ever SIB.
  11. 10 points
    The first of the two James Miller models is finally completed. Still have to finish up the light bulb stand and the stand to hold the model on the bottom of the bulb. There is a second model, at present it is at the stage of ready to start mounting the masts. The second is a static display model, so in some ways it easier to rig.
  12. 10 points
    I started with the main sail. The first thing I did was to get the paper ready. There are a lot of different methods for coloring paper, coffee, tea, or paint works. I've found a very light staining of golden oak gives a good weathered effect. I wipe off the excess on the edges and lightly stain the middle. From there I traced out the sail against the model. I like to give a wind filled look which means making the sails a little bigger than they are in the plans. Once its cut to size I draw on the details. I find a light board works well for this. You can go with out though. I used the light board to match up the reefing lines. If the wind is to strong the sailors would bring in the sails. These lines are where sail would shortened to. Once the first are on flip it over on the light box and trace the other side. After that I work on the sail panels. It would be almost impossible to weave together whole sails, they are far to big. So they wove together panels that were sewn together. Some one could probably find the general width of sail panels and get them all to scale but its not needed. I chose a width that looked good and went with 3mm apart. I marked the bottom edge with a line every three millimeters. Then drew a line parallel to the edge next to the mast. Once that was done I flipped it over on the light box and traced the other side. Then it was time to draw on the ties. When a sail is reefed ties on the sale are used to tie it down to the boom. I make these ties by putting a little "s" mark on each panel. Make sure to do both sides. Then I curl the sail. This is what gives the wind filled look. Take the sail between a pen or dowel and your thumb then pull it through. This will curl the sail slightly. Make sure to choose which tack you want at this point. Then glue the sail to the gaff and boom. Technically there would be hoops the connect it to the mast but I'm leaving those out.
  13. 10 points
    Garry M

    Newly hooked

    Hi all After a time of ‘will I or won’t I’, I have finally embarked on my bottled ship voyage. I have enjoyed reading your posts and look forward to learning some of the many secrets associated with this skilled craft. I have completed two ‘trial’ builds which have been the catalyst for my embarking on this journey.
  14. 10 points
    An example of the frame method.
  15. 10 points
    When it comes to trimming lines there is a special tool I use that makes for a really close cut. Follicle clippers from the grocery store. They run around $8. Note how straight the edge is and that it cuts off to the side. I can place that edge right on the shroud and cut the ratline super close with out cutting the shroud line. To show this look at how close the ratlines are cut at the edges of the shrouds. Something to note with these clippers. Treat the like your mothers sewing scissors. Once you use them for anything but thread the edges get bent and they will not cut thread cleanly. I have an old pair I use for wire and a new pair I use for thread. When I buy a new pair I mark my thread ones as my wire ones and throw out the oldest pair. I use these for cutting all of my lines specifically because I can control exactly where I make my cuts.
  16. 10 points
    For the rest of the bowsprit whittle out a really thin piece of bamboo cut it to size from the plans and then taper the end. With a pencil mark where the end of where the two bowsprit pieces overlap. Then glue them together. I got some 8/0 fly tying thread and tied a knot around one end of where the bowsprit pieces connect. Then I wrapped that thread around glued it down tied it off glued the knot and cut off the ends. It will look like this. Then I did the same on the other end. Now its ready for the bobstay. The bobstay strengthens the bowsprit even at this scale. I've had ships where I put on the forestay before the bobstay and the whole bowsprit bent upwards and almost broke. The bobstay keeps the bowsprit straight when the forestays are pulling on it. First drill a hole in the keel. The plans shows where this stay will connect. Then tie a knot on the bowsprit and run the line through the keel. Glue the knot down and put a dab of glue on the line your about to pull through the keel then pull it through. Once that sets tie it off glue the knots and cut off the excess. Now its time for some forestays. First tie a thread block. See the video above. The hole of the block should be wide enough for your thread. I used wire instead of a needle for this one. Tie the thread block to the bowsprit. So that I don't run into forestays as I complete them, I'm starting with the inner most one. Tie the thread block on with the block facing upwards. Tie it and glue it as usual. Now for a little more added realism I tied a slip knot around the mast just above the lower cheek. I tightened the knot until it looked right leaving it slightly loose. I glued the knot down and put a dab of glue where the line connects with the back of the mast. Cut off the excess and then thread the other end of the line through the thread block. Note this line should be long as it runs out of the bottle.
  17. 10 points
    Time to get into the rigging. First thing I start with is the back stays. There's a lot of different methods for this. Use what ever method works best for you. This method has worked for me. Typically I create a channel specifically for the backstays and glue it onto the channel where the stays connect to the ship. Since I mismeasured a tad my ship is a little to wide for that. So I drilled my holes through the existing channels. When drilling these holes be careful not to make them to wide or to close together. They need to be wide enough for the thread but not much more. I'll explain why at the end. The backstays will be created using a single piece of thread. Pass the thread through through the channel and up through the gap in the two masts. Then done to the holes in the channel on the other side. The thread will pass down one hole and up the next. Then it will run up to the gap in the mast and down to the first channel. In this way the thread weaves back and for between the two channels and through the mast. Once you go through the last hole tie a stopping not, put a dab of glue on it and pull it into the channel. This is where the size of the holes and length between them matters. You can easily pull the thread out between the two holes if they are to close or the wood isn't strong enough. This is partially why I like having a separate glued on channel. If it breaks it can be cut off and remade. Its not so easy with the longer channel. It also looks more accurate. I tied two to make it thick enough and you can see I missed once. No worries that piece will be cut off. Once the stopper not is in place, pull on the other end of the string to tighten up the lines. Keep in mind that with the folding method the tension on the backstays will set the rake or angle of the mast. Tighten up the lines to get the right mast angle. Then on the loose end I put a little glue on the thread and pull it through the channel. This helps keep the tension right as I tie it off. Once the glue sets I tie a knot around the channel, glue it down and cut off the excess. This is the result. My thread is more frayed than I like but hopefully a little more wax will cure that. The forests thread is temporary for now. One more set of backstays will go up to the top mast but after that we move on to the fore stays.
  18. 10 points
    exwafoo

    Lydia Eva Steam Drifter

    Hi All, I attended the EASIB bi-annual convention last weekend, and had a thoroughly good time chatting with other members, seeing their SIBS and the evening meal for the presentations. It was held in Great Yarmouth, Norfolk on the East Coast of England. It also coincided with the Great Yarmouth Maritime Festival. The quayside had a selection of nautical themed exhibits, historical re-enactment by the local ‘militia’ demonstrating muskets etc, folk singers/groups singing sea shanties, and a few vessels to go aboard and look round, one of which was the Lydia Eva. The large herring fleet had made the town the major herring port in the world in the early part of the 20th century. Built in 1930 and based in Great Yarmouth, Lydia Eva fished along the East Coast and North Sea for nine years. The Royal Air Force brought her in 1939, using her in a variety of roles until she she laid up in 1969. She was acquired by the Trust in 1971/2 and restored as a floating museum in Great Yarmouth. Lydia Eva joined the Maritime Trust's national collection of vessels in London's St. Katherine 's Dock in 1986 but was laid up again in 1990 and eventually returned to East Anglia when the Lydia Eva Charitable Trust Ltd was formed She is listed as part of the National Historic Fleet and there is fair web coverage. Lydia Eva was suggested as the SIB to model for the convention, so I set to. I couldn’t find a set of drawings for Lydia Eva, but I did have a set for Ocean Unity from a copy of Model Shipwright. This was of a similar style, so with a bit of electronic shrink and grow, a reasonable set of lines was obtained. The differences were obtained from photos from various websites. I aimed for a SIB at about 1/250. The Hull Block Hull being formed Cap rail being fitted SIB primed, bulwark interior painted and ribbing being fitted. Wheelhouse being constructed Then I got a new laptop and 'lost' some phots during the data changeover so straight to the finished SIB. And then this at the evening presentations - well pleased. best Alan
  19. 10 points
    And the next stage - I placed the underwater part of the hull in a bottle, poured silicone, formed a ripple and foam from acrylic gel and white paint.
  20. 10 points
    I’m doing two SIBs at once. One is HMS Ramillies and I’ve got a build log going for her here on BSB. But the second one has no build log, it’s a three masted barkentine with no name and here is her photo. I’m enjoying doing two ships at the same time since some aspects of the project can be done simultaneously and thus are more efficient- like melting and pouring the plasticine sea material. Otherwise it’s good to be able to turn away from one project as it gets stale and go to the other project the following day, alternating. The square rigged warship is done but not inserted and I’ve got half the sails yet to bend on to the barkentine.they should both be complete within a week. Then you likely won’t see me on this website for a while as I will return to my larger, static, not SIB Model Shipways Brig Niagara. So you see in the bigger picture of my modeling life I am also alternating between projects: I built the Niagara to the point of completing the hull and deck furniture and stopped to do these two SIBmodels and when they are complete I will return to Niagara to begin spars and rigging, which will take a long time. Alternating between project helps me to stay enthusiastic about each and not become bored with either.
  21. 10 points
    JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    Thanks guys, praise from the praiseworthy is worth all reward! I was unhappy with the rake of the masts so I softened the white glue holding the channels to the hull on the Fore and the Mizzen using rubbing alcohol. I wasn’t sure it would be possible but it litteraly softened the glue faster than it takes to write this paragraph. Then I reglued and I’m much happier now. tonight I put on the topsails. I ALWAYS depict square sails braced hard over, I think it looks more exciting. Even if I was going to build a ship bare-polled, I’d probably still brace up the yards.
  22. 10 points
    Onni

    HMS Gannet

    Some of the armament that I may use; Nordenfelt machine guns on fo'c'sle,64pdr muzzle loaders on main deck and two Armstrong guns on the poop deck. A lot of the items I may or may not use as a full deck can look a bit cluttered . Added the hammock netting which is on the top of the bulwarks (indicated by the badly drawn arrow!)
  23. 10 points
    For masts I use bamboo. I like it for its durability and because its in expensive. A package of bamboo scewers runs around $3 and holds enough for several ships. I cut my bamboo in section long ways and use a drawplate to get smaller round sections. I then put these pieces in a drill to smooth them out and add a bit of taper. Tapering masts and yards really adds to the realism and doesn't take to much extra time. As a cautionary note, don't spin wood in dremels. They spin way to fast and very often the wood gets off center and becomes a projectile. Drills are slower and safer. Once I have the mast cut down and sanded I measure it up to the plans and cut it to size. The same process applies to the top mast except its cut down even smaller. From here I cut a couple small blocks. And glue then where the mast doublings are on the plans. I then glue the top mast to these blocks. This creates a small space between the masts which is cteated by the cross trees. From here I cut out some strips of paper and stain them with wood stain. The paper is glued on and wrapped around the mast creating the cross trees. This also helps hold the two pieces together. For this ship I'll be using the hinge method. It's a great place to start on ship in bottle building. To make the hing drill a small hole in the base of the mast, insert a piece of wire and bend it down. Drill a couple holes for either side of the hinge where the mast will be placed on deck. Then trim the wire until it hits the bottom of the holes at about the point the bottom of the mast just touches the deck. Glue the wire in place. Test the hinge to make sure it works well. This is a good opportunity to test how well the ship fits in the bottle. The mast works fine but my channels are a bit to wide. Gotta fix that. One more note on masts. I typically don't drill a lot of holes in masts. The holes can easily cause the mast to break. Thinner masts look more realistic but are more fragile. To keep them strong I will be using knots to put on the yards. How ever for this build there is one more hole needed in the mast. It goes where the boom connects to the mast and will help with rigging the boom.
  24. 9 points
    Chasseur

    Bottled Ship Wright Journal

    Ladies and Gentlemen, attached is our first edition! Enjoy...Jeff The Bottled Shipwright.pdf
  25. 9 points
    Greetings All, At last the first James Miller model is finished in the light bulb. I use a special built holding stick to insert and raise the masts on the models. This stick has a clamping method to hold tension on the lines when tightened, and is narrow enough that I can invert the model and glue all the lines beneath the upper hull. I did have one problem with this first model, when I started the two models I carved the first one, the light bulb model, out of basswood the second was carved out of solid maple. The problem is that with all the carving and length of time between start and finish, nearly two years, the upper hull of this first model warped so that the ends were lower than the center. During final trials I found the problem, and tried to fix it by sanding the bottom of the upper hull at the bow and stern. However, this could only be done slightly without damaging the upper hull, so there ended up being a slight gap between upper and lower hull, most evident in the center. The second model's maple hull did not warp. Thinking on it now, I should perhaps not have used a solid piece of basswood for the upper hull, but instead should have used two outer pieces of solid basswood, with a thin piece glued down the center, this just might have kept the hull from warping when carving away the top and bottom areas. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  26. 9 points
    And finally, Jack took his place on the mast.
  27. 9 points
    Chasseur

    HMS Wivern by Chausseur

    Checking some clearances just to be sure!
  28. 9 points
    Then I installed the mast, pulled up the rigging gear, added some small details and flooded the third layer of the sea
  29. 9 points
    Then I connected all the parts of the boat on the slipway
  30. 9 points
  31. 9 points
    Lubber123

    Trio in a Triangle Bottle

    I’ve been continuing to follow the examples in Jack Needham’s “Modeling Ships in Bottles”. I had already finished the first example “A Simple Model for Beginners”. Although I am more experienced than a basic beginner, I found making the basic model to be a good refresher. I don’t follow Needham’s method of rigging; I don’t use as many control lines as he suggests and I rig the shrouds in to holes in the gunnels instead of rigging them through the underside of the hull. Here I progressed to his second model, a four masted lumber schooner. I had the dilemma of trying to find an appropriate bottle for it since the model is long but not very tall. I also had a uniquely shaped bottle that my father had saved for me many years ago with the thought that “maybe you could put a ship in it someday”. It’s a long tapered triangle shaped bottle that once contained Sicilian Gold Marsala. So as a tribute to my Sicilian ancestry I wanted to use the bottle. I switched over from the clay-dough modeling clay I had previously used and instead purchased some plumber’s putty that I colored with water-soluble artist grade oil paints mixing Ultramarine Blue with some Viridian Green for the sea, using the base neutral color for the wave tops. I also switched back to cloth sails which I seem to prefer. Once I placed the lumber schooner into the back end of the bottle, I realized it looked a little lonely so I repeated Needham’s “Exercise One” and made a basic two masted fishing schooner to keep it company. Once I added the fishing schooner, I still had some “dead space” in the neck to fill so I added a small headland background with a few buildings and put a small skipjack sailboat in front of that to give the illusion of all three running into port. I finished the neck with a “Turk’s Head” knot that I built a special jig for so I could get it right this time. It’s still tough to make, even with a jig. So here is my diorama “fleet” heading into port. This is the first time I put multiple ships in a bottle and I’m encouraged enough to use this method again on some of my longer bottles.
  32. 9 points
    DSiemens, this is a great choice for learning, thoroughly enjoying this build. It really is a beautiful vessel, partly because of it's simplicity.
  33. 9 points
    Lubber123

    Cape Cod SIB Finds

    My personal SIB collection remained at three for a long time: one I found, one that was a gift and one I built from a kit. One day about ten years ago I was on a fishing trip on Cape Cod when I wandered into a gas station cum tackle store to buy some hooks. I don’t remember how I ended up in a back room of the store but in this room was a large collection of ship models in various states of repair. Some of them were in cases, some were in pieces and some had price tags on them. I could tell that this was a collection from a serious builder who apparently was some relationship to the couple who owned the store. I remember picking up a business card but it has long been lost. I think the builder was located in Newport, Mass. but I’ve lost the name. Among this collection was a lone SIB that I recognized in to be inside a real Haig & Haig bottle. Without hesitation I purchased the model for an uncontested ask of $15.00. At the time I thought it was very neatly done but now that I look at it closely I see a lot of machine-made prefabrication: printed sails and a paper appliqué type siding on the hull. It has a neat obliviously machine made “Bluenose” name plate inside. It still has a nice look to it and doesn’t look as cheap as the “overseas” manufactured plastic bottle things. It almost looks like somebody took a kit model ship and put it in an authentic Haig & Haig bottle. I never found that shop again or any online information about the name I had. I think the builder is deceased and some of the models ended up in an art gallery that went defunct and is now a real estate office that has one of the larger models in a window collecting dust. My other Cape Cod find was from an antique shop in Provincetown. I found a lone SIB that was very nicely done and obviously handmade. It’s a Gloucester fishing vessel, almost a dead ringer for the “Elsie” model I have recently finished, housed in a green glass magnum wine bottle which doesn’t detract from its appearance. Considering most of the poor examples and cheap imitation SIB’s I usually find, I didn’t mind paying $40.00 for it. It was obviously made by someone who knew what they were doing. It has neat deck furnishing and non-hinged masts glued in place after insertion. The hull and furnishing look so neat that I almost suspect some pre-fabrication. The sail cloth looks like the sail cloth that came in my 1970’s vintage SIB kits. So, it could be a kit build that was upgraded to a nicer bottle with a green putty sea. That’s about the extent of the models I’ve purchased. I really don’t want to collect other people’s work unless I can find some top-notch build for a bargain. I have a collection of materials and I just needed some incentive to start building my own again and just do it for my own amusement.
  34. 9 points
    This next part has a lot of options all depending on how detailed you want to go. If you want to keep it simple leave off the topsails all together. In higher winds these would have been removed and it looks fine with out them. Here's an example. If you want to add more detail though the top sails look great. To put on the yard arms use the cow hitch and tie the yards to the mast. Running rigging will be used to keep the yards straight. There's a lot of options on this part as well. The Bermuda sloop is interesting because the running rigging is rigged forward instead of aftward like most bigger ships. This picture is a great example. For my ship I decided to rig the top two yards on the same lines. This is somewhat more advanced but it shows the type of things you can do in rigging ships. First you'll need a few thread blocks. One just behind the middle thread block on the bowsprit, one on the stay line at about the same height as the cross trees, two on the ends of the middle yard arm. Here you can see where the running rigging is going to go. Start it at the ends of the top yard arm, run it through the thread block on the stay line, then through the thread blocks on the middle yard arm, then through the thread block on the bowsprit. There's a trick you can do on this part. Its less realistic but reduces the lines coming out of the bottle. Tie the running lines to the end of the top yard arm, then pull them through the thread block on the stay line, last tie the ends to the middle yard arm and cut them off. Letting the lines slide through the thread block you can adjust the tack of of the yardarms. If you want to go more realistic run the lines down to the bowsprit then drill a couple holes through the hull just behind the front bulwark and on either side of where the bowsprit attaches to the deck. Run the lines through these holes and under the ship. The advantage to this method is you don't have to be precise in cutting these lines because they will be under the sea. For the bottom yard tie lines to the end and through the same block on the bowsprit and then back to the holes in the hull. At this point the ship is ready for sails.
  35. 9 points
    My second acquired SIB – Robin Hood’s Bay in an Aspirin Bottle Here I present the second SIB that came into my life. In the 1960’s a local department store had a line of SIBs available that were made in Robin Hood’s Bay, England. One day as a child I had the privilege of watching a demonstration in the store where a fellow from England was inserting a model into a bottle and erecting its masts by the magical “pulling on strings”. This modest example appeared under the Christmas tree that year for me to enjoy. The end cap has a label which is missing a piece which gives the exact origin as “ [Ship?] Models, Robin Hood’s Bay, England”. The model is a statement of elegant simplicity. The bottle is of the type that aspirin commonly came in back then and measures 3 7/8” x 2”x 1”. The ship is a full square rigged three masted clipper with sails made from paper. The hull is simple and it is simply rigged with a shroud for each mast and one stay connecting the mast to the bowsprit which acted as the “magic string”. Notably the masts are not hinged to the deck and may have been pushed into place into little groves in the deck and then glued down after they were raised. Its little pendants are flying straight ahead showing the direction of the wind into its tiny sails. It’s a neat little keepsake and I’ve had it for over 50 years.
  36. 9 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, I now have the fore mast added to the ship in light bulb model of James Miller. All the fore stays, shrouds and backstays have been added, as well as all the headsails and all their rigging. The two jib sails are static, They do not move with the stays they are attached to, they are attached by small open loops so that the stay can move through the sail, since the stays for those sails runs through the jib and martingale spike, then into the hull and is the operating end of these lines. The fore sail does move with the stays, as in this case they are double, one on each side of the bowsprit, running through the bees and back into the hull, these are also the operating ends of the stays.I learned a lesson with the foremast, in that I added all the running rigging before adding the shrouds and ratlines, which was a mistake as it made adding the shrouds much more difficult with all the running rigging lines being so light in color they kept getting accidentally tied into the shrouds. The cabin and hatch are also permanently attached now. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  37. 9 points
    James w rogers

    La nina, caravel.

    Back to it after a bit of a break, (after trying to fathom out whatever posessed me to make it so small and fiddly!) 😂 it's time to 'try' and rig it. Off to a slow start, but it's a start nonetheless! 😂
  38. 9 points
    And a few final photos...
  39. 9 points
    Thanks Jeff. I'm very happy to see a few of you following a long. Let me know if you need better explanations of any part. Onward With standing rigging. Create two more thread blocks to tie to the bow. Per the plans they should be right before the back of where the back of the jib boom attaches to the bowsprit and the very tip of the jib boom. On the last forestay I left a loop because the line goes around the cross tree. For the next to I tie them directly to the top mast so there is no loop. Tie long threads onto the top mast and run them through the thread blocks. These lines need to be long enough to run out of the bottle. I'm not sure I talked about the rat lines. My method for this is simple. Pull the lines so the shrouds are nice and tight. Cut a small piece of thread. For this I used 8/0 fly tying thread. Its slightly smaller than the thread for the standing rigging. Holding the 8/0 thread on either side and get some glue on the middle of the thread. Use a dowel or the glue bottle to spread this a little and wipe off the excess being careful to avoid the edges where your fingers are. Then place the line one the shrouds and hold until dry. Once all the lines are on cut off the excess. For this method a fast drying glue is required. There's good and bad to that. Super glue dries hard and can break. I try to use as little as is necessary to get the job done. That's a fine are to learn. There is another method if you want to avoid using super glue. Make a frame out of thin wood. Matches or toothpicks work well. Glue the ratlines onto the frame so that they are evenly spaced a part. Place the frame over the shrouds and glue the ratlines to the shrouds. Since the frame is holding the lines in place you can leave the lines to dry. Then cut the lines outside the shrouds to remove the frame and trim the excess.
  40. 9 points
    James w rogers

    La nina, caravel.

    Lateen sails made, to say it was a bit fiddly would be an understatement. I ended up putting two flats on the yards to enable me to glue them together and stop them rolling apart, then put some cotton binding round with a little dab of superglue, then tacked the sails in place with glue and sewed them on.
  41. 9 points
    Weege

    SS First Attempt

    I don't have any plans to go by I just used the illustrations in the books I've found, I realize this needs quite a bit of work but i'm thrilled with th way it's turning out so far, and i'm hooked on this the learning curve is pretty steep but i'm working my way up, everyone here has been great
  42. 9 points
    JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    I got Ramillies into the bottle this morning! Whew. It’s late October. In fact it’s the anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar today here in 2018 ! You will recall that HMS Ramillies commander at the Battle of Stonington was a very significant figure at Trafalgar so I’m very pleased I got her into the bottle on this day. I’m too cheap to turn my heat on yet so this means my plasticine sea is not amenable to grabbing onto the models hull. So I’ve not reached the end of the project but this is a good point to stop and photograph and post. Happy Trafalgar Day everyone.
  43. 9 points
    JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    Today was PERFECT for working indoors on a ship model: cold and rainy outside and a Saturday! I was happy as a clam working on the Ramillies. I had all day to rig the rest of the sails but first I did a single test fitting into the bottle with the topsails on. It want in fine, got the masts up, etc, but I do worry that getting it back out could be an issue so I won’t do any further test fittings. The yards are wider than the bottle opening so the yards all have to cockbill up and all the clews swing away from their positions and these can foul on the stays. On my test fitting the Mizzen Topsail didn’t want to cooperate and I had a moment of panic wondering if I was going to break something getting the aft end of the ship out. I got the Tgallents and headsails on. My sail plan called for three staysails but I’ve abandoned those sails as they will add a great deal of complexity. As it stands now I’ve got twenty two control lines and I’ve been doing my best to label and color code them but it’s getting hairy. Not having three more sheets from the staysails is better for me. one thing I’ve noticed is that it’s possible to gang together groups of stays from the same Mast and bundle those lines together with blue tape nipers where they exit the inside of the bottle. I’ve never done this before, assuming they would all need to run individually. But I find they can all run identically and the tendency to snarl and tangle is dramatically reduced. I made up signal flags a pennant and an ensign. Flags on ships in bottles are ridiculously easy to make and they just glue on. They add a lot of color and visual texture to the rig plus they are a normal part of every real world ship so why not include them?
  44. 9 points
    Onni

    HMS Gannet

    Foremast in place and glued. In the first picture note the white loops at the top of the mast used to pull through the boom and jib ropes. (Not sure if those are the correct terms.) Picture two, here I am trying to evenly tighten the back stays together. Capstan fixed in place and also the Arab Dhowl sailing on the starboard side.Port side forecastle in but not glued yet because have to wait until both sides are in before I can fix them together.
  45. 9 points
    Onni

    HMS Gannet

    Mast in place,after rigging is tightened added binnacle etc ,screw raising pulley and guns.
  46. 9 points
    I present the reports from the World Championships in Romania. I won a silver medal for the Western River model. Artur
  47. 9 points
    Onni

    HMS Gannet

    Spent some hours trying to fashion some decent looking railings with stanchions but the effort was totally wasted because they looked awful (Not even going to post a picture of them!) ? Bought instead some photo etched railings from the net which still took time to paint and fix but the end result is quite pleasing.?
  48. 9 points
    JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    The hull I’ve carved from some species of wood that smells a LOT like cedar. Maybe it IS cedar? I had a block lying around. Nice tight grain. Smells good. Masts. I’ve grown impatient with wood for masts in SIBs. To get the wood to scale you wind up with some VERY fragile spars. I got sick of snapping them and now use brass rod and piano wire. This necessitates soldering the components and I’m the WORST at soldering. But the metal masts NEVER break and I can drill through them. You’ll notice a second bottle prepped. I’m building two SIBs at once but this build lib focuses only on the 74.
  49. 9 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    Continuation Artur
  50. 9 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    Continuation Artur
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