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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Jeff B

    How to do water

    Dr. Morrison has a nice demo on The Curiousity Show on YouTube. Keyword search Ship in bottle. Also see The Woodwrights Shop. Season 26 ep.1 also found in YouTube. I like the ice cream stick method because plasticine really stays soft and flexible so the ship can pull out. Glued to a ice cream stick in the bottom of the bottle, the ship is firm. Fair winds, Jeff
  2. 1 point
    exwafoo

    How to do water

    Hi Bruce, All. Plasticene. Gained fame when Aardman Animations used it to make the Wallace and Grommit characters. In the UK its trade name is now 'Newplast'. It comes in a variety of colours in 1kg blocks (which makes it expensive on shipping so I go to an art supply shop) however it does do a lot of SIBs. The block is about 12 x 2 x 1.5 inches in size and is made up from a number of ' round section rods/extrusions which can be peeled off as required. This is useful for mixing colour. eg, I take an inch of blue, and add, say, 1/4 inch of green and 1/8 inch of black. mix well.If this is the colour of the sea you want, that's the ratio to use. Adjust until happy. I only have blue, green, white and black. You do not need a lot of black to darken, its a very intense dye. Does not need baking, the heat of your hands softens it and it stiffens up when not being worked. Assuming the bottle is going to be on its side, I choose the best side of the bottle, then I mark on the outside of the bottle the level I want, keeping the lower seam level with the top of the sea. This helps hide it and moves the other seam to just the other side of the top of the bottle so that it does not stand out as much. I PVA a strip of paper with the ship's details, date of bottling, my details, etc on the inside bottom, with the print facing out. Once dry, the plasticene can go in. I use 'sausages' fed through the neck then flattened using whichever tool is best for the job. My new favourite is a length of stainless steel rod that detached from a badly made barbie grill, with one end bent at right angles, the ends having been ground flat and smooth. The glass can play tricks on your eye so have an occasional look through the neck as the plasticene goes in. Once the basic sea is in, then shape the waves, put the hull in, make the recess, add foam etc, and remove the hull. The plasticene never really hardens, just stiffens up, so grips the hull nicely during trial fits, but releases easily enough to get the hull out again. I tend to work with split hulls so the bottom can stay in when finished. I have started to coat the sea with slightly dilute PVA to give it a gloss shine. It takes a few coats. I also glue the hull in as well. I have always found holding the SIB in the bottle whilst working on it a bit of a problem. I acquired an Amati SIB kit at our convention (I'll do a build log eventually), and it shows way of holding the SIB in the bottle that I'm going to try. It consts of a 'C' shaped piece of brass on the end of a rod. The 'C' is the shape of half the hull, from bow to stern, with the other half being thread from the far end of the 'C', through a hole at the fwd end and out of the neck, the whole being a type of lasso. It would allow the SIB to be held, manoeuvred, positioned and then released. Excuse bad drawing, but it should get the idea over. Another method I saw on a video (can't remember which one) was to use a length of dowel between the SIB and the top of the inside of the bottle, basically just jamming it in place. (never tried this) I've never noticed the plasticene causing any condensation. I also found this link and I've been trying to work out if the stuff could be used in a bottle. AK water gel Have a good Easter break Alan
  3. 1 point
    DSiemens

    How to do water

    I agree it probably is a chemical patent and they are all different. Definitely experiment and find what works for you. As far as the wire method. I use coat hanger wire so its pretty stiff. It does take some practice and patience. I do have a photo I need to add to my current build log. Notice the wire is placed just before the mast and holds the ship down. I'm holding the forestay line with the same hand I'm holding the wire with. I use my free hand to pull the line tight and work my tools. First thing I do is tighten the line where I want it to check that every thing is working. Second I loosen the line a little bit. With a second wire I put a dab of super glue on the line right in front of the thread block or hole the line is being pulled through. I pull that wire out and tighten the line. Since I use super glue this takes about five seconds. Last, once the glue is dry I go back with a razor blade on the end of a wire and cut the line. All of this is done with one hand on the wire holding the ship down and the other working the tools. The advantage is you can maneuver the ship to reach lines easier than you would if the ship was glued down. Also on a catastrophic failure you can cut the rigging and pull the ship out with out breaking the bottle.
  4. 1 point
    Bruce Foxworthy

    How to do water

    Bernard: I like your method here with the two part hull and think I'll give that a try. I"d prefer to have a solid stiff rigidly anchored ship before I start pulling strings because I like my strings pretty tight before I glue them off. D. Siemens, you mentioned that you are holding the ship down in place with a wire as you are pulling strings tight. I'm thinking that this method has to be practiced a lot because in my mind I see myself pulling the ship all around and out of it's seat. Typically I have a dental ( my sorter-outer/ organizer) pick on a stick inside the bottle the whole time I am erecting the rigging and positioning the sails so another wire tool inside and I'm assuming being held down with pressure kind of seems really difficult. Wonder if you have made a video of how you do this or know of one, using this method?? Getting back to the sea material issue, I'm trying to sort out all the differing ways they are being used in this thread. First of all I was thinking that folks were making typos but now I'm realizing that there are actually a variety of these materials available and being used differently. Here's a list of what spellings I've seen so far for what I was thinking was the same thing. Plastice, Plastaline,Plasticine,Plasticene. Today I ordered some Plastaline from Dick Blicks on D. Siemens recommendation. I also went to see what my local Michele's, store had and I found a clay by Craft Smart That's called Plastalina, a new spelling. The package says do not bake on it and the stuff is hard as hell in the package. I bought some to experiment with. Hopefully it will melt on the bottom over a burner and soften up by needing or putting in a baggy in some hot water so that I can spread it and work a sea up before it gets hard. The thing here, in my mind anyway, with all these different spellings is that these products are probably all patented. Each one has it's own particular chemical formulation with it's own particular properties. A rose is not necessarily a rose with this stuff. Looks like I'll be trashing a few bottles till I figure out what works best for my liking. It's enough to frost my scuppers. Thanks everyone for your input, it's much appreciated. Bruce
  5. 1 point
    Bernard Kelly

    How to do water

    Hi Bruce and welcome. A method I use with plastiline is to form the hull as if you were going to make a full hulled model but the bottom part is only about 1/8th of an inch thick. It attaches to the upper hull with the two pin method normally used for a full hull. I then stick the bottom to the inside of the bottle with an epoxy and when set place the plastiline around it and form my sea. I then find that when I glue the top to the bottom piece that it is very rigid and well secured. I sometimes use the bottom of the base to put the name of the ship on. If I do it along the edge I can put the epoxy in the middle and it does not cover the name. I then usually stand the bottle on it´s end with a wad of tissue in the neck to dry out. I usually leave it a couple of days and then insert the rest of the ship into the bottle.
  6. 1 point
    Lubber123

    How to do water

    My recent experiments have caused me to fall back on plumbers putty (window glazing would work also) colored with artist's grade oil paint. I would suggest Water Soluble type oil paints (Holbein and also Winsor and Newton make these) for easier clean up. They absorb into the putty relatively quickly and handles without mess in a day or two. Also one can mix a nice color with Ultramarine Blue and Viridian Green or other colors to match a nice sea. The base color of the putty is an off white which works well for waves. Plus it is a traditional way to produce a sea and I like sticking with traditional methods. I found a plumbers putty with a modern formulation for granite countertops that behaved quite nicely. I tried a modeling clay product but I don't like the color of the blue - it's more a sky blue than a sea blue. I tried to color this with acrylic paint but instead of mixing into the clay, it sort of sits on top of it and it never dried (acrylic paint usually dried in twenty minutes but this stuff made a mess!). I do use the brown modeling clay for backgrounds however. Guy Demarco's book has some good suggestions for making a sea and explains most of the methods that are mentioned in the previous post. Essential is to have a good stout rod of some sort to press the sea down and smooth it. Demarco suggest a bent knitting needle.
  7. 1 point
    Jeff B

    How to do water

    Welcome to the forum Bruce. I too use Plastice modeling clay. I cut a little worm of blue and white. I twist together like a braid, the fold over and flatten and repeat like Damascus steel, until I get the color I want. Could be milky or total light blue. Then you slip it in the bottle and using tools, flatten it out. Make waves, touch in white caps if you feel the need. A demo can be found on The Woodrights Shop on PBS television Season 26, episode 1. https://video.unctv.org/video/woodrights-shop-ship-bottle/
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