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  1. 15 points
    Roger

    Port of Gdansk

    my new item: Port of Gdansk ( Poland ) 4.5 liter bottle
  2. 13 points
    Greetings All, Have been working on 2 models of the James Miller at 1:300 scale and thought I would share some progress photos and info. One of the models will be going into an 11" long sodium vapor street light bulb, the other in a wall mounted clock that resembles a pocket watch case, the latter will be static display. I've been working on the models for about 8 months now, on and off. Both hulls are split at the waterline, to allow access to the underside of the upper hull, and to fit through the light bulb opening. I decided to try something different with these models, the hulls are carved from solid maple, instead of the basswood I have used for hulls in the past. It it a bit more difficult to carve to shape, but much stronger. The upper hulls were carved to the decks, then a solid piece was carved to match both the forward and stern decks, the forward longer section was pegged to the deck, the small stern piece was just held in place, then both were carved to the outer shape of the hull. Both pieces were then "hollowed out" to about 1/16" thick. Maple keel was added to the hull pieces, then the interior of the forward bulwarks piece had styrene frame tops added, along with a styrene pin rain added their entire lengths. A 1/32" forecastle deck was then cut to shape, and glued to the tops of the pin rail on either side. A styrene top plate was then cut and glued to the tops of the bulwarks of the entire hull. The bowsprit was made from maple, the jib boom was made from glued maple laminates for strength. The light bulb model had laminated lower masts, to make it easier to add hidden hinges for that model. All the other spars I made from solid apple wood, which is different from my usual techniques. The apple wood is amazingly strong, even when cut and sanded to small diameters, and nearly grain free. Most of the spar attachment points for rigging were cut and filed from various thicknesses of solid brass, thin brass shim material was used to make some of the attachments, like for the bobstays and boom sheet and topping lift attachments. The boom and gaff jaws were cut and filed from 0.20" thick brass, mainly for strength. One of the reasons for the lengthy build of these models is my attempts to try different methods and materials. One of my better "finds" for these models was the use of electrical shrink tubing for the mast hoops. I used a wooden dowel a bit larger than the thickest part of the masts to shrink 1/8" diameter tubing to size, by heating the tubing carefully. A single edged razor blade was then used to cut thin sections of the tubing for the hoops. When I shrank down the upper mast hoops I found the shrunken tubing was too thick, so I used various grades of sandpaper to spin sand the tubing to take the thickness down. I would have preferred to have used brown shrink tubing, but while there are a variety of colors available, brown was not one of them. The cabins for the models were made from maple, started with a core building of 1/32" maple veneer longer sides, with 3/32" maple ends, and a similar thickness maple inner piece for strength. The door and window openings were then cut through the side panels. I then glued 0.010" thick maple "planks" to the outside of the cabin. Very tiny pieces of the thin maple were then cut and glued for the door and window frames. I decided to let one door partially open on each cabin, just to show the hollowness of the cabins, the doors were made similarly to the cabins themselves. All the decks of the model were planked with the same 0.010" thick maple, the maple was hand sanded down from the 1/32" thick veneer that I have a good stock of. The planks were then cut and sanded to size, and a soft lead pencil was rubbed along one long edge and one short edge of each plank. The planks were glued to the decks with thinned white glue.
  3. 13 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    Continuation Artur
  4. 13 points
    Finally, the building of the model has been completed
  5. 13 points
    These are a few shots of my recently completed Charles W. Morgan. I'd been reluctant to post anything about this project because of serious doubts whether it would succeed. It took far too long because I made a number of poor choices and had to go back and redo a number of things. For example, this is the second hull and it took 16 whaleboats to get the 7 that finally went with the model down the bottle neck. My eyes aren't quite what they used to be either and that has made rigging a much slower process. The next project will not be as ambitious.
  6. 12 points
    exwafoo

    Colvic Watson 28

    A friend asked me to make a SIB of a boat that is owned by one of their friends. The boat is a Colvic Watson 28 ft as shown in Figs 1 and 2. Figure 1: The drawings Figure 2: the actual boat I had a few other photos to work from as well. I drew up some plans, shown in figure 3. Figure 3: Working plans The hull block was made and shaping started, shown in Figs 4 & 5 Figure 4: Hull block Figure 5: Shaping Started Figure 6: Basic outline. The hull is split just off centre to port and has an upper, mid (from styrene) and a lower. The aim is to give sharp horizontal paint lines for the boot topping, Figure 7: Cabin made, under-coated and the planking. I made the planking from watercolour paper, printed on the PC with different weights of line thickness and shade. I used watercolour paint to try different shades of ‘wood’ colour, then picked the one that looked best at this scale. Figure 9: Top-coated The lower hull sections were painted separately, royal blue for the boot topping and red oxide for below the waterline. Figure 8: Sea started. The sea was made from plasticine, with a description of the SIB and makers name label under it. Figure 10: Starting the woodwork and masts. I used a red hardwood veneer for the woodwork, Small pieces were reinforced with thin CA glue before cutting and sanding to shape. Once attached to the SIB I used diluted clear acrylic varnish on them. The masts were made from brass tube and rods. This SIB had the luxury of actually having a large hinge at the foot of the mainmast. The main and mizzen sails are of the modern variety that are slotted into rails on the mast and are furled on a rotating assembly on the boom. The foresail is furled around a rotating steel forestay. Cutting the slots in the tubing was ‘fun’. I used a small photo-etched saw from http://www.radubstore.com. Took a while but it worked, Figure 11: Main mast Figure 12: Most of the woodwork fitted Figure 13: Masts and sails I used some type of translucent parchment that my wife gave me for the sails. Stitching was simulated using a black pencil, and they were coloured with watercolour, This allowed them to retain the translucent effect, They were a bit waxy, and I had a bit of trouble getting them to stay stuck in the slots on the masts. They held a good shape though. Figure 14: Rigging Underway I used a silver coloured thread for the rigging to simulate the stainless steel on the real boat. The railings were made from brass rod and painted chrome. Figure 15: Almost done. Windows ‘fitted’ I used DIY water slide decals for the windows and name. This is the first time I’ve tried this and have been pleased with the result. A pack of 5 A4 sheets of decal material cost about £5 and I’ve used half of on sheet. First I printed a couple of different sizes and colours on paper for trialing next to the SIB for size and effect. Then printed out 3 sets of the chosen ones on my ink jet, to allow for slip ups. When dry, a couple of light coats of clear acrylic varnish was sprayed over them. Once dry, the decals are cut out, placed in a saucer of warm water and when they float off of the backing are applied using a wet paintbrush and very gentle use of tweezers, left to dry then varnished over to seal and protect them. They went on very nicely first attempt. Figure 16: Ready for bottling Figure 17: In the bottle. By special request, the lighthouse is an attempt at Walney Island Lighthouse at the north end of Morecambe Bay where the owner sails to sometimes. Regards to all Alan
  7. 12 points
    I’m doing two SIBs at once. One is HMS Ramillies and I’ve got a build log going for her here on BSB. But the second one has no build log, it’s a three masted barkentine with no name and here is her photo. I’m enjoying doing two ships at the same time since some aspects of the project can be done simultaneously and thus are more efficient- like melting and pouring the plasticine sea material. Otherwise it’s good to be able to turn away from one project as it gets stale and go to the other project the following day, alternating. The square rigged warship is done but not inserted and I’ve got half the sails yet to bend on to the barkentine.they should both be complete within a week. Then you likely won’t see me on this website for a while as I will return to my larger, static, not SIB Model Shipways Brig Niagara. So you see in the bigger picture of my modeling life I am also alternating between projects: I built the Niagara to the point of completing the hull and deck furniture and stopped to do these two SIBmodels and when they are complete I will return to Niagara to begin spars and rigging, which will take a long time. Alternating between project helps me to stay enthusiastic about each and not become bored with either.
  8. 12 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Latest work on my James Miller model pair. Finished up all the cabins and deck structures, first two photos show the cabins. Nest two photos show different views of the fife rails that are situated around the 3 masts. This ship had an interesting feature of ratcheting windlasses, they are the black circles just inside the windlass with the small tubes sticking out at 45 degree angle. They would turn the windlass on the down stroke and ratchet freely on the up stroke, wood or metal poles were pushed into the tube ends to operate. Never saw anything like this before and found it an interesting feature to work out in miniature. Fifth photo shows the main anchor barrel windlass, the fore deck capstan for raising the anchor out of the water and the ship's wheel. The last photo shows some of the many attempts I made to manufacture the ship's wheels needed for the two models. The first was made by simply gluing some drawn down bamboo together, then cutting circles from .005" thick styrene plastic, and gluing them to both sides of the "spokes", added a tiny center circle of paper. The second attempt I made using shrink tubing, larger diameter tubing that was shrunk down around a small diameter drill bit shank. The shrinking increased the thickness of the tubing, I then drilled holes and inserted the same bamboo spokes. Both of these methods worked OK, but did not have a decent method to attach to the horizontal "arm" of the entire mechanism. The third and fourth wheels were made by drilling a hole in the end of a piece of apple wood, then sanding the outside to get a thin walled tube. Holes were drilled in the tube near it's end, and the bamboo spokes added. The difference with these was that I made an extremely small diameter tube from apple wood, and glued the spokes to this in the center of the wheel. This gave me the perfect method to mount the wheels. The last wheel shown was made by making up a cross grained plywood from nearly paper thin maple wood, then drilled the holes and adding spokes and center piece. I had tried this earlier, but had difficulty drilling the holes without splitting the wheel. On this final attempt I saturated the inner and outer surface of the wheel before drilling and that seemed to work. Sixth photo shows the 100 apple wood blocks I made for the models. There are 40 double and 60 single blocks, my "guestimate" of the number needed for the two models. The remaining photos show the deck structures on one of the models, non of the structures is permanently mounted at this time, I just placed them as well as I could for the photos. I need to mask off the deck areas to air brush the hull parts, so needed the clear decks to make it easier to tape from cap rail to cap rail for masking. Be happy to answer any questions anyone might have. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  9. 12 points
    DavidB773

    Mast handling tool

    Hey, all. Here’s a tool for putting masts on our SIB’s. It lets you guide a mast through the neck of a bottle horizontally and then rotates the mast to vertical to its place on the hull and then releases it. Basically, it’s a small diameter brass tube with a steel wire in it that is attached to a link that pivots. I don’t intend to write a novel and I don’t think anyone wants to read one here so I’ll try my best to explain. It’s probably obvious that moving the wire causes the link (wood material) to pivot. The pivot is a straight pin that was bent to a 90 and epoxied to the brass tube. The two barbs on the link are clipped ends of pins. The sticky backed foam is stuck to the barbs and the blue tape helps. The foam has a slot for the mast. An important part is what I would call the release wire. It creates tension with the foam until removed. An important part is after the mast is guided in and the wire is pulled slightly to rotate the mast to vertical and then placed in the hull, the tool needs to be released. This is a critical time because the mast is somewhat attached to the hull and positively to the tool at the same time. A careless movement could cause breakage. Here’s what to do: attach a thread to the loop on the release wire to pull the wire out. The tool will immediately disconnect from the mast. In the pics, note the range of the rotation that be had; only 90 deg. is basically needed. The first pic shows both sides of the link and the opposite end. If you make one for yourself, I would stick with the small brass tube simply to avoid putting weight on a delicate mast after it’s placed. The release wire does the holding so the foam needs to be soft. I'd be glad to answer any inquires and thanks for taking a look. David
  10. 12 points
    Capten Madog

    Second SIB - S.S Rebecca

    So, as promised I said that my second ship im a bottle attempt would be the Porthmadog built S.S Rebecca. She was the first steamer in the port, loved by the young & hated by the elders. She made weekly visits to liverpool from the port with supplies. The ship model is made from wood painted with acrylic paint. The steam, some strands of wire wool. The stand I constructed entirely from driftwood found in the local bay. The white plaque on the stand is polished bone with the name & date scrimeshawed onto it. I am fairly happy with the result. But as soon as I corked the bottle she was there to stay the way she was. atb Capten M
  11. 12 points
    DavidB773

    My first SIB: Dimond

    Image captures of video of the foremast installation.
  12. 12 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    Continuation Artur
  13. 12 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    Continuation Artur
  14. 12 points
    Shipbuilder

    Flying Foam

    Topsail schooner. Bob
  15. 11 points
    DSiemens

    Ship in Bottle Repair

    Well I had my first opportunity at ship in bottle repair. It was entirely different than I expected I'd do with a ship in bottle repair but I got it back together. I should have got a picture before I got it back together but when the gentlemen brought it over the mizzen main sail was floating around the bottle totally detached. I had to maneuver it in place and glue it down. Took two hours but I did it. Funny thing with glass ships. There no wiggle room.
  16. 11 points
    Working without plans or proper procedures is a bit of a chore. I had to manufacture some of my own parts like dead-eyes, braces and mast hoops. I rigged the yardarms onto hoops so that they are adjustable instead of gluing them directly to the masts as I think was the intention - which would have been hard since I don't have plans that tell me where they should be glued. So I'm either making things up as I go along or researching other models to figure out what things should look like. I've used parts left over from some other kits I've built and I borrowed the mast, gaff and boom rigging scheme, so now the model is part 18th Century Long Boat, part 19th Century Baltimore Clipper and part 20th Century fishing schooner - a real "Frankenboat". Actually I now refer to it as my "Plague Ship". The photos don't do justice to the amount of work I put into it. I had to stop at this point after my hand cramped up while trying to belay the lower yardarm. I can't figure out if this yardarm is suppose to have a sail on it or was it just a brace? I have no sail plan for it but found sail plans for all the rest. I also took the liberty of making a boom for the main foresail since I can't believe that it wouldn't have had one but none was included in the plans. I rigged the peaking, up lift and throat halyards as if it were a fishing schooner. The model looks a little sparse without the jib sails but I think I'll leave them until after I make the mainsail, main top sail and jumbo. This way if I run low on sail cloth I can just show them furled. It sure is a lot of work for a model that isn't going to win any prizes for accuracy. If the way to make a first rate model is to not be afraid to tear out inferior work, I should have thrown this thing away after I planked it wrong! I even made a few mistakes that I should have known better about but I don't have any extra materials to redo work with. I have just about enough heavy cord left to make the shrouds on the main mast without having to mix materials. I now have an elevated respect for professional model makers. I might as well consider this model a practice run for the next time I make a model.
  17. 11 points
    tazam0827

    Asgard

    The Asgard is a gaff rigged yacht built around 1908 in Norway for Erskine Childers, English MP and Irish Nationalist executed during the Irish Civil War. The ship was used to run guns into Howth, Ireland in response to the arming of Unionists in 1914. I became interested in the ship because it was a local legend in Howth, where I lived for a few years. I drew up some crude plans from photos I found on line.I carved the hull out of Basswood Decking, gunwale and cockpit built with coffee stirrers Bowsprit, cabin, hatches and helm fashioned and painted Mizzen mast rigged. I tried making hinges to attach the gaff and boom, and it worked fairly well so far, but doesn't look particularly authentic Main mast rigged. I used Thread blocks for the first time, and I'm liking them! A little more work on the hull, I'm using painted wire loops as places to attach the shrouds. Not entirely convinced of that yet. As a beginner, I'm always looking for constructive criticism and ways I can improve, so please don't be shy!
  18. 11 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    Continuation Artur
  19. 11 points
    tazam0827

    Asgard

    The thread with the painted stripes is meant to represent the gap between the deck and the gunwal that I suppose allows for drainage in heavy seas. See this picture of the actual yacht. Here's my model, almost ready for the bottle.
  20. 11 points
    Here are some photos of the second James Miller model. It is housed in a 9" diameter clock that was made to look like a pocket watch case. The case is actually cast bronze, quite heavy.
  21. 11 points
    Jeff B

    Jeff bs build #3.

    Final product. I cut the port backstay trying to push down the stern into the sea, it was riding too high. I tossed the line over to the starboard side.(the not display side.) i don't know if I'll ever go in and fix the line. I don't think I can.
  22. 11 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Today I share the latest work on the James Miller models. I have completed adding the bobstays, jib boom shrouds and jib boom backstays to both models. The bobstays and shrouds are made from miniature rope, made on a mini rope walk I built a year or so ago, using 3 pieces of 8/0 fly tying thread. The backstays are fake miniature chain, made from 8/0 fly tying thread tied around a #80 drill bit with double overhand knots. To keep the "chain" fairly straight I tied a second piece of thread to the first loop tied, after removing the drill bit from the hole in an 9" long piece of wood, then passing this second thread through a rubber band tightly wrapped around the far end of the wood. Before each new double knot was added, the second line was pulled slightly, so that as the first knot was tied to the next knot it would pull the second line, keeping the knots tied opposite each other to keep the chain straight. As each double knot was tied, the bit was removed from the hole in the wood, and the whole thing repeated endlessly. Second photo shows the completed forecastle area, with everything permanently in place. I also wanted to share that I found some really nice, super fine, fly tying thread. It is labeled and sold as 20 DEN line, and is finer than a human hair. I've used 8/0, 10/0 and 12/0 threads, but they are nearly identical in overall size, but this 20 DEN stuff is a lot smaller/thinner. According to the info at the J. Stockard fly tying company online this line is equivalent to 19/0 thread. It is quite a bit weaker than the other threads mentioned, but works great for wrapping. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  23. 11 points
    Onni

    Gypsy Moth IV

    After working on HMS Gannet for months felt a need to build something quick and a bit easier. Plumped on Sir Francis Chichester's, 'Gypsy Moth IV' something that I remember from my younger days! Never done a model in an upright bottle before so this was something new for me. (Thanks to Ioan for the idea) From start to finish about 27 days to complete. Split hull design. Carved a new internal stand to allow for the natural curve in the bottle base.
  24. 11 points
    Greetings All, In my attempt to get realism I have been working on some ideas for sails. Rather than printing seam lines on paper, my usual method for making sails, I tried out the idea of using thread sandwiched between layers of very thin paper. It took a number of attempts, using different threads and various papers, until I came up with something I think works quite well. The photos below show first one of the hulls with the stern bulwarks added, with the boat davits, and painted black along with the top of the cap rail. Then for the sails, there are several shots showing my sail jig, with bamboo pins spaced where I want my seam lines to be, then strung with 8/0 white fly tying thread. I kept the thread under some tension, while stringing the jig. Beneath the threads is first a small sheet of .003" thick clear acetate, then a folded sheet of .003" 100% cotton drafting paper, with half the paper under the threads. I found it easier to add threads to the jib after the layer of acetate and paper, rather than slipping them under the threads. I then thinned down PVA white glue with water, and using a soft paint brush I laid down a thin layer of glue over nearly the entire paper, leaving 1/4" unglued near the outside edges. The paper warped a bit, and I had to be careful as the wet threads stretched a little, too much brushing moved them around and out of place. I then folded the other half of the paper over the first half, pressed it down by hand, then added another acetate sheet and finally a couple of "C" clamps to hold it all together. Over several attempts I found that too much clamp pressure flattened it all to the point where the ever so slight height difference over the threads completely disappeared, which ruined the effect. I finally found just the right clamping pressure to get the desired results. The last few photos show some completed sails, not easy to detect the seam lines on those, but the later photos show some of the sails installed, and the running rigging added, and here the seam lines seem just right to me. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox iII
  25. 11 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Finally got the hull air brushed, flat black upper hull and copper lower hull. The cap rail is still white as I have to add solid railings and boat davits before painting the rails black. Next we have the ship's boat for one model. There were two made, one for each model, using cigarette papers over a bone mold. The ribs and cap rail are plastic, the floor boards and thwarts are made from light and dark apple wood. The blocks have been added to hang the boat. Then we have the spars with their blocks attached. I try to add all the blocks and tackle to the individual parts before installation as space is restricted once they are installed. Last, but not least, are the four anchors for the two models. They were made by cutting and sanding 0.02" thick brass sheet, then adding apple wood and black thread to finish them off.
  26. 11 points
    IgorSky

    What's on your workbench?

    In progress... On the slipway...
  27. 11 points
    So the next part is adding on to the stern bulwarks. I cut out part of the plans to get the sizing that I needed and then cut out a piece of wood to glue in place. I soak the wood for a couple minutes and then glued it to the top of the bulwark. After I send the bulwark down I work on the rail to go on top of the stern bulwark. I cut out another 1.5 mm piece soak it for a a few minutes and then do a grain break at the very end to give that lip between the two rails. Then I glue it in place. I send that piece down to thin it out and then move on to the stern cabin. I start with the front of the cabin that will be on deck cut out a piece that fits in the place where the cabin will be and then sand the top edges to round it out. I decided to cut out the door on this model this is more for my own experimentation it doesn't have to be done as part of the beginners build. For the door typical I'd go out a piece of paper paint it and then glue it in place I wanted to try this out since the cabin is open and I will glue the door hinged open so that it looks like you can walk inside. After the front of the cabin was placed I put in the back of the cabin this is kind of the same thing placing the piece sanding off the top edges to round them out and gluing it on.
  28. 11 points
    DSiemens

    Pirate Ship Scavenger

    Final touches.
  29. 11 points
    Many thanks bluenoser! The work is slow, but, nevertheless, it is going A few days ago I was compelled to make building berth. This time the rigging turns out to be more complicated than I did before.
  30. 11 points
    IgorSky

    What's on your workbench?

    Colin Archer RS1
  31. 11 points
    Artur

    Western River

    Please find further photos
  32. 11 points
    Shipbuilder

    Latest Drawing

    My latest sail plan drawing, completed today. Bob
  33. 10 points
    Onni

    CSS Alabama

    Built in secrecy by John Laird in Birkenhead, England in 1862 for the Confederate States Navy Alabama became a feared raider; sinking or destroying many Union vessels until she was finally sunk herself by USS Kearsarge near Cherbourg, France June 19th 1864.In 1984 the wreck of the Alabama was discovered by a French minesweeper in the western approaches of Cherbourg roads at a depth of 60 metres (200 ft). I will do this build log in more or less real time with 'warts and all' (mistakes) just to show that our hobby is not so easy or straight forward as it sometimes seems.Select a bottle (which determines size of ship) and construct a simple stand for it.Had some old wood laying around that I thought would be good to use but actually wasn't,cuts badly and doesn't sand well.Cut out the deck using a 0.4 mm wood veneer that I will sand down and stain later on.
  34. 10 points
    MickyK

    HMB Endeavour, a scratch build

    Hi All, I've started on a SIB of the HMB Endeavour, which is a relatively famous ship in this part of the world. I started about a month ago, after I'd visited the replica of the ship, and taken heaps of photos. As it lives locally in Sydney harbour, it was a nice day out! So far, I've shaped the hull, carved out of some nice straight grained soft wood from an old office table, which was about 40 years old. I've also played with masts and spas, with mixed success! The hull is sliced at the waterline, and so far, I can fit it down the neck of my bottle. (Always bonus!) This build is going to take me months, as I have to learn how to do and make everything. So any comments, criticisms, pointers where I'm going wrong, etc will be more than welcome. Thanks. Mick
  35. 10 points
    Bruce Foxworthy

    AMERICA

    Today I got all the deck furniture done.😁
  36. 10 points
    Jeff B

    Starship Enterprise in bottle

    Greetings shipwrights, In the last few days I have been experimenting with the folding disk, it has to look right in the bottle. I' m on #4 and I think I figured it out. Meanwhile I chose one of the ships to be a static display for the shelf above my work area. Still envisioning putting the other in the bottle piece by piece. Have a Happy Thanksgiving. Or a nice Thursday for those those outside the U.S. Best regards, Jeff
  37. 10 points
    Jeff B

    What's on your workbench?

    Pride of Baltimore complete and bottled up!
  38. 10 points
    MickyK

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    OK! I now have a ship in a bottle! Because of the height issue, I removed my clay sea, just soaked it in water, and it eventually came away. The epoxy that held the clay in place took 10 days of soaking it acetone. Cutting the bottom of the hull off is an option if it it done before bulwarks and rigging go on, doing it afterwards I think it would be a bit of a pain! Likewise, trimming the top of the masts. I really should not have to do either. So I glued the ship directly to the glass, and then poured in the ocean. All I have to do now is make a base for it, and she can go onto the shelf. Cheers Mick
  39. 10 points
    John Zuch

    My "Waterwitch"

    Like you I to used Jack Needham's book for my model of the Waterwitch
  40. 10 points
    Lubber123

    My Goja SIB build

    Since I decided to revive my interest in ship in the bottle builds, I revisited my original first kit builds from the “Ships A Sailin’” line from the 1970’s. My first ever build was their “Lively Lady” and my second ever build was another of their kits. I pulled out the instruction sheet that I still have from this series which has no identification for the ship on it. For many years I was under the impression that this build was their “Skeeter” but after finding an old kit for sale I realized that I had actually built their “Goja”. I first started to perfunctorily build this ship accordingly to the dimensions I had on the instruction sheet when I remembered that I was never quite pleased with my first result. I had given this build away as a gift so I no longer had it for reference. I looked at the squat dimensions of the whole ship on the instruction sheet and the cautionary words that the model had been modified to adapt it to the bottle when I wondered if this was actually a historical representation. At the time I had no idea what the “Goja” was, my “Lively Lady” certainly wasn’t a historically accurate ship so I assumed that this was another fanciful creation. After a cursory investigation, I was hooked. The “Goja” is the ship that Norwegian Explorer Roald Amundsen sailed to make the first successful voyage across the North West Passage in 1906. The ship still exists today in a museum in Fram, Norway and previously had spent many years in a park in San Francisco, Ca so it is well documented and photographed. I managed to find a sail and rigging plan and pulled up a few photos to help me get as historically close to the ship as possible. I even watched a video documentary about the Arctic Explorers and the quest to find the North West Passage. After Amundsen completed the passage, he landed in Alaska and had to Nordic ski 500 miles just to send a telegraph to announce his completion. I was so impressed with this story I decided I had to do this model due diligence and effort. I didn’t want to end up with a “bottle with a ship model in it” I wanted a “ship model that happened to be encased in a glass bottle” instead. I found a nice bottle in my collection that complemented the dimensions of the plan although it was a bit challenging to work in. I tried to match the color scheme of the hull, I made a nice suit of sails from cloth instead of paper (I really prefer the cloth sails to paper now), I took some care with trying to make a flat Arctic sea with ice floes and an Arctic tundra backdrop and I sealed the bottle with a Scandinavian coin (OK, it’s Swedish, not Norwegian and it isn’t from 1906 but it looks cool) and made another “decorative braid” knot for the neck. I even tried my hand at a miniature Norwegian flag to fly from its ensign line. Had I had the presence of mind, I would have made a Norwegian flag of the banner but the flag was an afterthought. Most of these details are not visible in the photograph. After it was completed it struck me how the bottle mounted on its side mimics the silhouette of the ship with the neck being its prow. So here it is, my homage to Roald Amundsen, my eighth ever SIB.
  41. 10 points
    Garry M

    Newly hooked

    Hi all After a time of ‘will I or won’t I’, I have finally embarked on my bottled ship voyage. I have enjoyed reading your posts and look forward to learning some of the many secrets associated with this skilled craft. I have completed two ‘trial’ builds which have been the catalyst for my embarking on this journey.
  42. 10 points
    Time to get into the rigging. First thing I start with is the back stays. There's a lot of different methods for this. Use what ever method works best for you. This method has worked for me. Typically I create a channel specifically for the backstays and glue it onto the channel where the stays connect to the ship. Since I mismeasured a tad my ship is a little to wide for that. So I drilled my holes through the existing channels. When drilling these holes be careful not to make them to wide or to close together. They need to be wide enough for the thread but not much more. I'll explain why at the end. The backstays will be created using a single piece of thread. Pass the thread through through the channel and up through the gap in the two masts. Then done to the holes in the channel on the other side. The thread will pass down one hole and up the next. Then it will run up to the gap in the mast and down to the first channel. In this way the thread weaves back and for between the two channels and through the mast. Once you go through the last hole tie a stopping not, put a dab of glue on it and pull it into the channel. This is where the size of the holes and length between them matters. You can easily pull the thread out between the two holes if they are to close or the wood isn't strong enough. This is partially why I like having a separate glued on channel. If it breaks it can be cut off and remade. Its not so easy with the longer channel. It also looks more accurate. I tied two to make it thick enough and you can see I missed once. No worries that piece will be cut off. Once the stopper not is in place, pull on the other end of the string to tighten up the lines. Keep in mind that with the folding method the tension on the backstays will set the rake or angle of the mast. Tighten up the lines to get the right mast angle. Then on the loose end I put a little glue on the thread and pull it through the channel. This helps keep the tension right as I tie it off. Once the glue sets I tie a knot around the channel, glue it down and cut off the excess. This is the result. My thread is more frayed than I like but hopefully a little more wax will cure that. The forests thread is temporary for now. One more set of backstays will go up to the top mast but after that we move on to the fore stays.
  43. 10 points
    exwafoo

    Lydia Eva Steam Drifter

    Hi All, I attended the EASIB bi-annual convention last weekend, and had a thoroughly good time chatting with other members, seeing their SIBS and the evening meal for the presentations. It was held in Great Yarmouth, Norfolk on the East Coast of England. It also coincided with the Great Yarmouth Maritime Festival. The quayside had a selection of nautical themed exhibits, historical re-enactment by the local ‘militia’ demonstrating muskets etc, folk singers/groups singing sea shanties, and a few vessels to go aboard and look round, one of which was the Lydia Eva. The large herring fleet had made the town the major herring port in the world in the early part of the 20th century. Built in 1930 and based in Great Yarmouth, Lydia Eva fished along the East Coast and North Sea for nine years. The Royal Air Force brought her in 1939, using her in a variety of roles until she she laid up in 1969. She was acquired by the Trust in 1971/2 and restored as a floating museum in Great Yarmouth. Lydia Eva joined the Maritime Trust's national collection of vessels in London's St. Katherine 's Dock in 1986 but was laid up again in 1990 and eventually returned to East Anglia when the Lydia Eva Charitable Trust Ltd was formed She is listed as part of the National Historic Fleet and there is fair web coverage. Lydia Eva was suggested as the SIB to model for the convention, so I set to. I couldn’t find a set of drawings for Lydia Eva, but I did have a set for Ocean Unity from a copy of Model Shipwright. This was of a similar style, so with a bit of electronic shrink and grow, a reasonable set of lines was obtained. The differences were obtained from photos from various websites. I aimed for a SIB at about 1/250. The Hull Block Hull being formed Cap rail being fitted SIB primed, bulwark interior painted and ribbing being fitted. Wheelhouse being constructed Then I got a new laptop and 'lost' some phots during the data changeover so straight to the finished SIB. And then this at the evening presentations - well pleased. best Alan
  44. 10 points
    And the next stage - I placed the underwater part of the hull in a bottle, poured silicone, formed a ripple and foam from acrylic gel and white paint.
  45. 10 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    Continuation Artur
  46. 10 points
    Onni

    HMS Gannet

    Some of the armament that I may use; Nordenfelt machine guns on fo'c'sle,64pdr muzzle loaders on main deck and two Armstrong guns on the poop deck. A lot of the items I may or may not use as a full deck can look a bit cluttered . Added the hammock netting which is on the top of the bulwarks (indicated by the badly drawn arrow!)
  47. 10 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    Continuation Artur
  48. 10 points
    DavidB773

    My first SIB: Dimond

    Thank you, Arup! Thank you, Mr. S., taking a look at what I'm doing here. I'm quite honored to read your opinion of what I've accomplished. I have a cork for the bottle but it needs to be sized to fit. However, I'm not going to let that get in the way of posting this!
  49. 10 points
    DSiemens

    Pirate type Galleon

    Heres one of my very early pirate ship builds. You can see the split at the channel. Once in it looks like a solid piece. This is what makes ships in bottles magical. Your on the right track with it. Keep it up.
  50. 10 points
    A few more photos and steps. Mark out where you want the gun ports. I eyeballed it. Probably not the best method but it was a quick way of doing it. After that its time to make the bulwark. I used a 1mm or 1/8th inch piece of bass wood for the bulwarks. Hold them up to the plans and mark the width. At this point the cuts are straight even though the bulwark will be curved. Cut the pice to be a little longer than the ship. Remember the length of the bulwarks curves around the ship so its a little longer than the length on the plans. From here place the piece in a cup of hot water and let it soak for five minutes. This will help the wood bend. From here cut out the sections of the bulwark in between the gun ports. This way you don't have to bend the wood vertically just horizontially along the edge of the deck. It also makes nice square gun ports. For bending I use a technique called breaking the grain. You soak the wood then bend it with tweezers until you get a crease on the inside of the bulwark. Do this along the bulwark piece and it will bend where you want it. The crease will be on the inside edge so no one will see it. Also glue oneside of the wood and let that dry then apply glue and bend the wood around gluing down the other side. The already glued edge will help it stay in place. Give the bulwark a good sanding then it's time for the cap rail. I cut this piece to be a little longer than the bulwarks are wide. In this case 1.5 mm. I soaked it and used the same bending techniques only this time going along the top of the bulwarks. Also note I didn't go all the way to the front. The bow bulwark have the tightest bend so I did a separate piece for this section. Also note the 1mm high bulwark are big for the plans. This falls into one of my rules for building. Cut big then sand small. Now that the rail is on the bulwarks it can be sanded thinner. I cut another 1mm pice to act as a channel amd used the same technique to glue it right along the line where the bulwark meet the hull. This does a great job hiding the lines between the bulwarks and the hull. Its now starting to look like a bermuda sloop.
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