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  1. 12 points
    Shipbuilder

    Flying Foam

    Topsail schooner. Bob
  2. 11 points
    Onni

    Gypsy Moth IV

    After working on HMS Gannet for months felt a need to build something quick and a bit easier. Plumped on Sir Francis Chichester's, 'Gypsy Moth IV' something that I remember from my younger days! Never done a model in an upright bottle before so this was something new for me. (Thanks to Ioan for the idea) From start to finish about 27 days to complete. Split hull design. Carved a new internal stand to allow for the natural curve in the bottle base.
  3. 11 points
    Greetings All, In my attempt to get realism I have been working on some ideas for sails. Rather than printing seam lines on paper, my usual method for making sails, I tried out the idea of using thread sandwiched between layers of very thin paper. It took a number of attempts, using different threads and various papers, until I came up with something I think works quite well. The photos below show first one of the hulls with the stern bulwarks added, with the boat davits, and painted black along with the top of the cap rail. Then for the sails, there are several shots showing my sail jig, with bamboo pins spaced where I want my seam lines to be, then strung with 8/0 white fly tying thread. I kept the thread under some tension, while stringing the jig. Beneath the threads is first a small sheet of .003" thick clear acetate, then a folded sheet of .003" 100% cotton drafting paper, with half the paper under the threads. I found it easier to add threads to the jib after the layer of acetate and paper, rather than slipping them under the threads. I then thinned down PVA white glue with water, and using a soft paint brush I laid down a thin layer of glue over nearly the entire paper, leaving 1/4" unglued near the outside edges. The paper warped a bit, and I had to be careful as the wet threads stretched a little, too much brushing moved them around and out of place. I then folded the other half of the paper over the first half, pressed it down by hand, then added another acetate sheet and finally a couple of "C" clamps to hold it all together. Over several attempts I found that too much clamp pressure flattened it all to the point where the ever so slight height difference over the threads completely disappeared, which ruined the effect. I finally found just the right clamping pressure to get the desired results. The last few photos show some completed sails, not easy to detect the seam lines on those, but the later photos show some of the sails installed, and the running rigging added, and here the seam lines seem just right to me. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox iII
  4. 11 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings All, Finally got the hull air brushed, flat black upper hull and copper lower hull. The cap rail is still white as I have to add solid railings and boat davits before painting the rails black. Next we have the ship's boat for one model. There were two made, one for each model, using cigarette papers over a bone mold. The ribs and cap rail are plastic, the floor boards and thwarts are made from light and dark apple wood. The blocks have been added to hang the boat. Then we have the spars with their blocks attached. I try to add all the blocks and tackle to the individual parts before installation as space is restricted once they are installed. Last, but not least, are the four anchors for the two models. They were made by cutting and sanding 0.02" thick brass sheet, then adding apple wood and black thread to finish them off.
  5. 11 points
    Artur

    Western River

    Please find further photos
  6. 10 points
    Jeff B

    Starship Enterprise in bottle

    Greetings shipwrights, In the last few days I have been experimenting with the folding disk, it has to look right in the bottle. I' m on #4 and I think I figured it out. Meanwhile I chose one of the ships to be a static display for the shelf above my work area. Still envisioning putting the other in the bottle piece by piece. Have a Happy Thanksgiving. Or a nice Thursday for those those outside the U.S. Best regards, Jeff
  7. 10 points
    IgorSky

    What's on your workbench?

    Schooner ATLANTIC in progress...
  8. 10 points
    John Zuch

    My "Waterwitch"

    Like you I to used Jack Needham's book for my model of the Waterwitch
  9. 10 points
    An example of the frame method.
  10. 10 points
    DavidB773

    My first SIB: Dimond

    Thank you, Arup! Thank you, Mr. S., taking a look at what I'm doing here. I'm quite honored to read your opinion of what I've accomplished. I have a cork for the bottle but it needs to be sized to fit. However, I'm not going to let that get in the way of posting this!
  11. 10 points
    Capten Madog

    Schooner Edwin - my first SIB

    I’ve taken in a lot from this forum but haven't contributed anything since I introduced myself months ago. Deep down I feel a little guilty about this. Especially after reading a thread the other day about the possibility of the forum closing down. This is a very special forum and I’m glad it exists therefore I felt the need to contribute. This is not an actual build log I’m afraid but here are some pictures of my first SIB. The model is of the Pwllheli built schooner Edwin. My aunt revealed that my great great uncle was a seaman aboard this ship. Sadly there were no photographs to follow but there was some useful information on the book Porthmadog Ships. With the help of the Porthmadog Maritime Museum I was able to figure out what she looked like. The lighthouse in the bottle is a small model of the Penmon Lighthouse on Penmon Point.
  12. 10 points
    Alex Bellinger

    Archibald Russell

    Archibald Russell The four mast steel bark Archibald Russell was built in 1905 in Greenock by Scotts Shipbuilding and Engineering Co., and was one of the last of her type to be built on the Clyde. Built for general trade, she was 291 feet long and had a beam of 43 feet and displaced 2385 tons. She was owned by John Hardie & Son of Glasgow. After years of carrying a variety of bulk cargoes around the world, she was sold to Captain Erikson who operated a fleet of sailing ships, primarily in the grain trade from Australia. Eventually she was broken up in 1949. This ship was unremarkable in design or history, but exceptional as a well -documented and handsome example of her type. Underhill created a very detailed set of plans, including one sail plan with yards lowered and another with sails set. Bjorn Landstrom added a careful drawing of her hull and deck furniture as well as a color sail plan in his popular 1961 book, The Ship. Clive Monk followed Underhill and added her plan to those in the appendix of his 1954 Windjammer Modelling. Best of all, Edward Bowness made the main subject of his thorough 1955 Four Masted Barque. The second edition included information on a number of similar barks, but it grew out of a detailed guide to building an accurate model of the Archibald Russell. She has come down to us as the leading example of this kind of ship near the end of the sailing ship era. She is also well suited to ship in bottle building. Her long shape and complex lofty rig are well suited to a typical wine or whisky bottle, filling the space handsomely. In the early days of the craft it is easy to imagine many of the craftsmen, though perhaps not knowing Archibald Russell specifically, were certainly familiar with a ship or ships just like her. My own model started sometime in the mid-1990s, as a project for one of the ship in bottle classes I was offering those days. It was clearly intended for advanced students and I was not entirely surprised when I got no takers. The plans are my own drawings, taken from the plans in Bowness’ book, and made back in the days when I still believed this extra step was essential for accuracy and developing a familiarity with the ship. Now I am more skeptical about errors possible in this work, especially from careless draftsmanship. But in this case I felt my plans were accurate enough, and the templates were made from copies of these. The model itself starts as a pine core, and bass wood is an excellent alternative. I’ve heard cedar is also good, and I look forward to trying it. The lower hull is hollowed out for the rigging lines, done with some fine chisels and smoothed with files. Although having invested in many fine files over the years, I often return to the files from an inexpensive keyhole set purchased over 30 years ago. For larger scale models I would normally plank the deck with thin strips of wood, but at this scale, approx. 61’ = 1”, there is little point. The bulwarks are added on and eventually I learned working with multiple strips of wood for these makes it easier to effectively get the right sheer. A thin strip is glued horizontally inside the bulwarks to serve as a rigging railing for the shrouds, backstays and sheets. Made of pine, this strip went in very neatly but was later to cause me much woe. As an experiment I went over the outside of the hull with thin strips of paper to represent the hull plating. I liked the results and this did make painting the hull easier, especially the lines along the hull sides. The painting was still time consuming, taking a number of times going back over the strakes and false gun ports to get it as neat as it should be. There are some fine masking tapes out there, particularly the green “frog tape”, but so far I’ve only gotten little results using them at this scale. The deck furniture is varied and involved. There are three houses on the main deck and another, the chart house of the poop. The poop and fo’c’sle are joined by a catwalk that runs over the main deck houses. The hatches have peaked covers. All houses and hatches have brown “booting” around their bases, which was represented by this strips of paper painted the correct color. All portholes are simply simulated by pin holes in the wood. As often before, I lose interest in photography until the rigging starts, although there are a number of things that must be done before it can begin. The railings need to be added to the poop and fo’c’sle. They are made up of nicrome wire, 0.008” for the stanchions and 0.004” for the railings. The former are set into holes at the edges of the decks and the latter superglued to them as they are bet around the stanchions. This is not the best method, I’m sure, but it is the best I’ve managed so far. I’ve tired various jigs to create these railings off the hull but have had two ongoing problems; keeping the tension on the wire even as it is applied to the jig and finding an adhesive that can be depended on. Perhaps those with more experience in this technique can enlighten me. There is also a light railing along the catwalk but I did not seriously consider attempting this. Even the finest materials I have would still be too large for this feature and it would be a considerable challenge to make it without the results looking out of proportion. Furthermore, this railing would be so light a delicate it would probably not survive the rigors of rigging the model, let alone the bottling. Even the more robust fo’c’sle and poop railings took enough of a beating through the completion of the model as to make me wonder whether I shouldn’t have figured out a way to add them later in the process. Among the other things necessary to get done before starting rigging is, of course, making the masts and spars. At first I was going to use hinged “Hinkley” masts because I was afraid masts without hinges would not come back up among all the deck furniture. Unhappy with how my hinges were turning out, I decided to chance unhinged masts, and that turned out to be just fine. As usual, all masts, spars, tops and booms are of bamboo. Again as a concession to the scale, I did not attempt the topgallant spreaders. I find it is easier to rig in topmast and topgallant shrouds before starting any rigging to the hull. All rigging was a combination of fine thread and fly tying silk. The lower shrouds and stays are of the thread and the upper rigging is all fly tying silk. All running rigging is a light brown fly tying silk. It seems simplest to start from the foremast and head aft. Lines rigged in separately, of brown fly tying silk, are rigged in below the stays to support the staysails, and I usually tie these in first to help keep the mast in place and because these would usually be rigged in below the shrouds. Next come the lower shrouds themselves. The thread for these is always waxed. After years of doing this I finally realized the line used to rig the lower fore shrouds can be run after through the hollow underneath the hull to become the main shrouds, and on the become the mizzen and finally jigger shrouds. Similarly, the fore back stays, of black fly tying silk, can become the main, mizzen and finally jigger backstays. Therefore, all standing rigging running abaft the masts can be rigged in using just two lines, one of thread and the other of fly tying silk, making it much easier to make adjustments as needed. One of the difficulties arising from this is having to spend an extended period working with exceptionally long lines. Beading needles are an enormous help in this work with one major exception. I found these needles in three sizes, #s 10, 12 and 13. As most folks know, the higher the number, the finer the needle. In spite of being told a number of times these needles will pass through a hole drilled by a #80 drill, experimenting with these needles I found the hole for a #13 had to be drilled by a drill at least as big as a number #78. Both #s 10 and 12 needed holes at least as large as a #74 (!). Unfortunately my delicate railing inside bulwarks could not take much of the punishment of being drilled by bits this large. I had to repair sections of it a number of times. A further complication is the thinness of the #13 needle eye. Only with great difficulty can any line larger fly tying silk be threaded through this eye, and if you do succeed, that eye with the doubled thread will require a hole larger than the #78 to get through it. So much of the threading of these shrouds and backstays was done without the benefit of these needles and took a good amount of time and patience. Having to do this again, I would try to build a sturdier inboard railing. There is also a braided beading needle which is an alternative. My testing found it needed a hole drilled by a #76 drill. Once the standing rigging is all in I usually added in all fore and aft sails. These are easier to set before the braces go it. All staysails have sheets which are threaded through holes in the rail inside the bulwarks but are not secured until near the end of the entire rigging process. This is because the positions of all the masts shift and I was reluctant to commit a stays’l sheet until I felt more certain all was where it should be. This is the beginning of a time consuming and subtle process as the lifts and braces get tied in. Ships like this bark look best if all the mast rake alike and there is a clear uniformity throughout the rig. The braces have slightly more leverage between the masts than the shrouds, backstays and stays so they tend to draw the masts together. This is what I think of as a “corset” effect and can easily wind up with a fore mast raking conspicuously too far aft and a jigger raking too far forward. To try to maintain control and adjust as needed, I glued the braces on the lee side of the yards and only tied them on the weather side, leaving them free to be loosened or tightened. It also left them free to slip off the end of the yard from time to time, It took a number of days of carefully retying to finally get the balance I was after. This is why the nearly completed model is a chaos of loose ends for so long.
  13. 9 points
    Spanky

    Da Seamans Sloop

    Well folks, I am going to retire on January 2 so I thought I would get started on a project to help keep me from getting bored, I have had a few failures lately so I'm getting back to basics with no fancy hull splits or crazy ideas for this one. I am loosely basing this on a Carolina sloop but have taken quite a bit of artists license already and am naming this, " Da Seamans Sloop " as a thinly veiled nod to D. Siemans inspirational Bermuda Sloop build.
  14. 9 points
    First off, I'd like to thank you guys of the forum and most of all Daniel Siemens, for all the wonderful knowledge,help and encouragement I've had the pleasure to receive during the undertaking of this build. My hope with this piece meal presentation is that some other novices out there can benefit fro m my particular experience in some way. So here we go. In almost every way this build incorporates techniques and processes I've never tried before and only became aware of through the pages of this forum and discussions with Daniel. Along the way I had to contrive some methods to get things done, some of which I'll share here. As I was going along I also found myself tearing things down and starting over again and again because I did something that wasn't going to work and had to fix that, testing my patients all the while. After a two month period of time working most every day on it, I came up with a, I think, pretty decent generic brigantine that I basically modeled after this silhouette. I had never built a SIB model with more than one square sail on it before so I've been itching for years now to get to that place where I could confidently build square riggers. For the most part, the majority of the dozen or so SIBs I built years ago were schooners or sloops of one kind or another. MY FIRST CLAY SEA MATERIAL: I decided earl on after looking at some of the seas in pictures on this forum that I was going to use clay for my sea instead of what I had been using which was blue RTV silicone. Here's a picture of what my seas use to look like. I read everything I could find on the forum that addressed sea material, which is quite a lot actually. With some further input from you guys, I finally decided to go with a PLASTALINA type clay made by VAN AKEN. After working with the stuff throughout the course of this adventure I've decided that I love it. I made a really nice sea for my ship. I also found out that it melted easily over my stove burner to fuse well to the bottom and sides of the bottle. An incidental discovery with this material was that if you expose the top surface of this clay once it's in the bottle under the close light of two 100 watt shaded trouble lights, the glass will heat up and after a while the surface of the clay takes on a satin like wet look which I think is SWEET. I can't tell you how long that process took for sure or how hot the glass got. I do know that it became apparent to me that the sea was getting shinny around the time I had been working inside the bottle on the rigging for about a couple of hours. About the 100 watt trouble lights. I like to work with as much light as close as possible to whatever I'm working on. In this scenario I had a light on the right side and a light on the left side about four inches away from the bottle. I'll certainly be utilizing this characteristic that this clay exhibits when heated from above on my next build, too. HOW I MIXED MY SEA COLOR: I made a sampling chart of the five different clay colors that I purchased to come up with the color I chose for this ships sea. I've put all the combinations of clay that I mixed on a stick and numbered them 1 through 11. To this I've attached a print out of the picture of their proportions before mixing for future reference. I'm sure I will want to use a range of sea color possibilities in the future. I know that there are far more combinations I could have mixed but for now these 11 will suffice. SIZING THINGS UP: I've always liked the Pinch bottle 5th and the way a ship looks in it. It's kinda dreamy looking to me and so I chose it for this build. Besides I had one on hand I've been dragging around for eons. LOL. I basically scaled up a drawing of the ship from the silhouette I found on line. I made a hull blank and put it inside the bottle, held that drawing up to the glass to get a good idea of how much of the bottle would fill up with ship. Although I didn't know it at the time that I did my sizing process, Daniel has a much more accurate way to do it in his tutorial on, "How to build a Bermuda sloop (for beginners)", which you can find on this forum under the menu selection called, Build Logs. Check it out! A great deal of what I have come to do on this build of mine is a direct reflection of the things I've learned from his tutorial. Anyway somewhere in the beginning of his tutorial he shows how he makes a paper cutout of the ship and puts that cutout inside the bottle. Wish I knew how to put a link to his tutorial right here but I don't so you'll have to look it up. It's a treasure trove of technique and process for sure. THREAD BLOCKS: Yet another first for me is this thing called a thread block. There's a nice video on Daniel's tutorial by a guy named John Fox III, that shows how to make them. I had never known about them before and how useful they are especially in doing the running rigging for square sails. I made some the way John shows in the video and also came up with another way to put them on the end of my yards which was easier for me. I was also introduced to the Cow Hitch that is used on the center of the yard to attach it to the mast allowing the yard to pivot around. Between these two concepts, it dawned on me how I would be able to rotate the sails out of the way to get them through the neck of the bottle and because the running rigging freely passes through both thread block on the ends of the yard I would be able to set the tack of the sails once everything was inside the bottle.Pretty neat. Basically I made my thread blocks for the yards by holding a piece of wire in my vice. I secured the yard to the wire with a piece of masking tape being mindful of the correct orientation of where the Cow Hitch was and where the blocks needed to be. I made a mark on the wire where I wanted the block located from the end of the yard. That way I could duplicate the same location on the other side. When one thread block was done I slid it off the wire, flipped the yard 180 then put it back on the wire and tied the other one. PAPER SAILS AND SPANKER: Okay for the first time I'm using paper sails too. In the past all my builds had cloth sails because I had always had a problem with kinking paper going down the neck. Fabric was much more compliant for me. Another thing that I gleaned from Daniels, process was that the spanker sail has to come way away from the mast in order to get through the neck and unscathed. In my case I made a yolk crutch to wrap around the mast for the end of the boom out of a piece of brass wire. I drilled a hole through the mast at the spot where the boom would be nesting. Then I made two wire blocks and tied them to the boom.The running rigging for the spanker sail's sheeting goes through them and the hole then forward all the way out of the bottle.This configuration worked out perfectly for me as the gaff was able to move way out of the way along with the boom when the time came. So no kinked spanker. Incidentally, the travelers you see in my pictures are "Mini Swing Line Stapler", staples. I've used them on almost every ship I've made for that purpose. Sometimes I put a radius on them. On this build I also used four of them to attach my rat lines and back stays onto. Ironically, using the staples this way would later save my ass , as you will shortly come to see. LESSON LEARNED These pictures show a couple of things. The first thing that is evident, (to you old salts anyway), is that my ratlines and back stays are too far forward of the center line of the mast to ever lay down flat. When the time came to fold down the masts and I discovered that they wouldn't lay down I almost had a heart attack. Disaster! At one time I must have known about the importance of these elements locations relative to the pivot point of the mast because all my builds were successful in the past in this regard. But over the years I just totally forgot about it. Anyway, after a while of total dismay and a whiny conversation with Daniel, it came to me that I could remove the staples that the ratlines and back stays were attached to and relocate them back and up. That solved the problem and is an example of one of the tear downs I was speaking about in the beginning of this discourse. I wasn't able to get those lines as tight as they were and that's a huge disappointment. Another thing that the pictures show is the way I chose to step the masts. In the past I always used the wire hing method but this time I decided to use clock bearings. These bearings are put in old clocks when the original bearings are worn oval over time. It just so happens that I also restore antique clocks for a hobby too and have these bearings on hand.The one side of the bearing has a counter sink on it to hold oil for a gears pinion shaft. that counter sink was mounted up so the mast with a rounded bottom nested in the countersink just fine. In the future I'm just going to drill a divot on my deck to do this . it's a lot less work. SECURING THE SHIP IN THE BOTTLE: I put a trough in the middle of my sea material and found some of that white 5 minute epoxy at Home depot that Daniel had spoken about somewhere on the forum. Can't remember where but anyway it worked out great. There was a little bit of it that oozed up around the hull but I covered that up with white clay to look like the wake of a ship moving through the water. SETTING MY SAILS TACK INSIDE THE BOTTLE: I'm sure that there is some way to avoid what I had to do to come to the point of sail I wanted for my ship but as yet I don't know that. Basically I made my sea to reflect a reaching tack which meant that everything had to be adjusted from how it was built outside the bottle for that tack inside the bottle. For the boom and gaff of the spanker sail I used a piece of wood to lean against the top end of the gaff which held it there while the CA glue dried. I pushed the boom out with a wire tool and tightened the sheeting of the sail from outside the bottle. At this point I glued the yolk and sheeting line off with CA. Then I went in with a razor on a wire and cut the sheeting line off at the front of the mast where it came out of the hole. ADJUSTING THE YARDS: To pull the yards over for the reach tack I made a slip knot lasso and used that to grab the outside end of the yard arm and pull it forward careful all the while that the running rigging was moving through the thread blocks on either side of the yard arm without hanging up. Worked like a charm. I then went in and touched the Cow Hitch at the mast with some CA glue to set it. I waited a minute before I let go of the tension on the lasso I was using to hold the yards position.To be doubly sure the sail would stay put I removed the lasso and touched the outside thread block where the running rigging touched it with the CA glue. The only problem with this process aside from being tedious is that it is difficult to get all the yards on both masts to have the same degree of angle when it's all said and done. There's got to be a better way to do this, I mean to have the tack of all the sails predetermined before it goes in the bottle? Perhaps some of you guys can pipe in on this issue? One other thing that I learned about CA glue is it will for sure fog up the inside of your bottle if you use a lot of glue like I did inside. So best, if you can turn the bottle up to let the off gasses from the glue escape better. Even so be prepared to spend hours inside with Windex and a piece of cloth scrubbing the glass clean again. Big Pain In The Ass. Better yet plan the build to use a minimal amount of glue inside. SUMMING UP: There are a whole lot of more topics I could have touched on in this discourse but If I go on about it, it's kinda like someone saying , I could write a book. So I'm leaving it here. I sure learned a great deal during this build doing things for the first time was daunting in some respects but I survived the fray. I'd also like to say that it sure is nice to have a place like this to share our projects with other like minded nut cases because let's face it no average person on the planet has a clue about the work we do creating these little engineering marvels. There is so much to learn in this wonderful medium and I'm excited about the future builds I'm dreaming of already. Great to have my feet wet again. Thanks for reading mate. Best regards Bruce.
  15. 9 points
  16. 9 points
    Onni

    HMS Terror

    I like to use matt black spray paint as it dries in just a few minutes so you don't have to wait around for it to dry for an age.Marked out the deck and drilled holes where I want the masts and bowsprit to go.The veneer deck will go in as one solid piece. Will carry on with the construction of the masts and slicing the hull into four sections so that all the pieces will be able to go through the bottle neck without any struggle.Masts and bowsprit constructed with a little help from styrene.They will be sprayed matt white.
  17. 9 points
    JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    The hull I’ve carved from some species of wood that smells a LOT like cedar. Maybe it IS cedar? I had a block lying around. Nice tight grain. Smells good. Masts. I’ve grown impatient with wood for masts in SIBs. To get the wood to scale you wind up with some VERY fragile spars. I got sick of snapping them and now use brass rod and piano wire. This necessitates soldering the components and I’m the WORST at soldering. But the metal masts NEVER break and I can drill through them. You’ll notice a second bottle prepped. I’m building two SIBs at once but this build lib focuses only on the 74.
  18. 9 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    Continuation Artur
  19. 9 points
    DavidB773

    My first SIB: Dimond

    All of the deck elements are installed. Touched up the hull seam with paint and it turned out beautifully. Started above deck line threading and doing what I can there before the foremast goes in because the yards on it will hinder rearward access.
  20. 9 points
    Shipbuilder

    Pass of Brander

    Pass of Brander - 32 feet to 1 inch (1:384). Bob
  21. 9 points
    The sail is almost ready
  22. 9 points
    SIB in perfume sampler bottle. Needs some rigging though...
  23. 8 points
    DSiemens

    Bottled Ship Builder Hats and Things

    Bruce has come up with a logo and it looks fantastic! Here's our new logo. I will soon be setting up some purchase-able items that will include it. Thanks Bruce!
  24. 8 points
    Jeff B

    What's on your workbench?

    All bottled up.
  25. 8 points
    Jeff B

    What's on your workbench?

    HMS Waterwitch
  26. 8 points
    Time to get into yards arms and running rigging. This is a little tricky since parts of the running rigging works off of other parts but little by little it comes together. First lets start with the gaff. When it some to yard arms I prefer to tie them on instead of drilling holes. This keeps the overall strength of the model while enabling the use of parts that are more to scale. One of the primary knots I use for this is the cow hitch. This is particularly useful for square rigged sails. You can tie a cow hitch on the yard arm and then use the ends to tie the yard arm onto the mast. I used this same method for the gaff. Tie a cow hitch on the gaff and use the ends to tie it to the mast. I find it easier to tie the knot around the base of the mast then slide it up into place and glue the string to the mast. The gaff should be able to raise up and down and move side to side on the knot. For the halyard on the gaff tie a thread block on the end end of the gaff. Then tie a string to the mast just above the cross trees. Run it through the thread block the tie it to the mast at the spot you started. Cut off the excess. If you want it to be slightly more realistic you can run it down to the bulwarks where it would be tied off. This is a bit over kill so I just cut it off. The important part here is the length of the gaff halyard. You want the halyard to be tight with the gaff at the angle it is on the plans.
  27. 8 points
    DSiemens

    Pirate type Galleon

    Here's a rigging plan that's very similar to your ship. There's a lot of different way to rig a ship in a bottle. One of my favorite techniques to use in rigging I learned from John Fox III. It's called the thread block. Here's a link to the video on it. Basically it's tying a string around a needle to create a small loop and then gluing the knot so the loop doesn't close. These loops can be used all over the ship to run lines through. The alternative to this is seed beads. They are bigger than thread blocks but as you've seen from the other photo's you've found they do work well. When I'm not going for a super crazy accurate look on running rigging I take a simplified approach. There's three parts lifts, clew lines and sheets/braces. The lifts which run from the tip of the yardarm to the mast I think are optional. Some sibs have them, many more don't. I think they look nice but including them is up to you. To rig them in the bottle I use a thread block attached to the mast above the yard arm. I then tie a line to the end of the yard thread it through the block and tie it to the other end of the yard. The yard should still be able to turn almost parallel to the mast even with this line in place. That makes it possible to insert it into the bottle and there's not a lot of messing with the lift once it's in. Just adjust the yard and if needed put a dab of glue on the thread block to keep it all in place. Clew lines are attached to the end of the yard arm and have a block on them. The braces run from the hull through the clue lines and back to the hull. These are typically used on the bigger yard arms. Note the smaller yard arms higher on the mast don't have clew lines. This is where a thread block or seed bead comes in handy. Attach a line to the end of the yard that has a thread block or seed bead on the end. Sheets typically run towards the back of the ship. This is advantageous to the folding method since the lines can be put in place and as the masts fold backwards the lines become loose and then tighten up as the masts are pulled up into place. This does require a lot of testing though. Typically the sheets running through the clew lines run farther back on the ship and can be glued down to the hull. The sheets in the upper yards are trickier. On a real ship these lines often run to the fore stays and then down to pin rails on deck or on the bulwarks. That is hard to replicate on a ship in bottle. The simpler method is to run them to the mast aft of the yard arms. Older ships in bottles would drill a hole in the mast and run a line through it similar to what I explained with the lifts. If done right you can still fold the masts back using this method. I use a similar method except I tie a thread block to the mast. drilling holes in the mast makes them weaker and risks a break. Tying a thread block gives the same effect with out effecting the integrity of the mast. You can also run the sheets so they run out of the bottle and can be tightened after the ship is in. It depends on what you want to accomplish and how you design the ship to fold and unfold. Another method I use is to get a paint brush bristle and glue it to the end of the yard so that it just touches the mast behind that yard or vise versa. Once the ship is in you can glue the other end in place. Look at my build of the Scavenger as an example. I hope this helps. Ask more questions if needed.
  28. 8 points
    Finally, it's time to install the mast and rigging.
  29. 8 points
    DavidB773

    My first SIB: Dimond

    I appreciate the conversation, Mike. Look at the photo from 4.1.17 of single line channel to see how small (or big!) a peg can be. Following are photos of a line I'm replacing because I can't get the kink out of it. It was a tight loop that was in the mast for quite a while then pulled through. Moistening it had no effect. We see the line, then one end cut followed by a glued extension to it to prep for the last cut. (Could have glued first before the first cut.) This will carry the new line to the masts. This new line is CA coated thread. Trial run. More later.
  30. 8 points
  31. 8 points
    After that, I tried to set and the other two front sails
  32. 8 points
    Shipbuilder

    Deck Scoring

    I find this simple device that I designed several years ago, very useful for scoring decks. When the handle is rotated towards me, it pushes the scoring guide to the left. The depth guage attached to the sliding guide gives a direct width reading. I can score fine decks to a very high degree of accuracy using this device. Using it is very simple, and requires no skill whatsoever. Score line with scalpel, turn handle required distance, and then score the next one. A few minutes will give you a perfect sheet of planking! Bob
  33. 7 points
    Jeff B

    Starship Enterprise in bottle

    Both engines done, fuselage sanded to shape, mostly. Done for today.
  34. 7 points
    Onni

    "Foochow"

    Main mast fixed.
  35. 7 points
    Then I placed the bottle on another slipway, pulled out all the gear of the standing and running rigging, fixed their CA, cut off the ends and set the flag in the stern.
  36. 7 points
    I'm going to Segway from the clipper but in a round about way involve it in these next few picture anyway. This is the Danish cigar box inside the larger box that for lack of anything better, I'm calling his, build kit box. So inside here there are masts, some already drilled. Various sizes of yards having only one hole in the dead center. As far as I can tell there are no holes at the ends of any yards on these three builds I have. Interesting. Which also may explain how they are able to have such a nice taper to them. Finally we have an assortment of.... OH MY GOD! BRASS SAILS.!!! The nerve of this young wiper snapper!! Why, the very idea!! Who ever would of heard of such a thing!! Yes, indeedy folks, this is one's for the books! These pieces of brass shim stock are, .090mm or around .004 thousands of an inch thick. Pretty close to paper thickness. They are painted white somewhere along in his process of the build. They seem to hold their shape very well and are pretty flexible, too. I like them and I'm suggesting that we can ascribe this as an identifiable Anders Henriksen signature attribute. Unless you guys have seen this before, I will then stand corrected??? This picture below is a piece of quarter inch thick wood,( I think stained), and it was laying on top of the little cigar box that holds all the parts. I took these masts and yards out of the parts box to see if they lined up with the grooves cut into the board and as you can see they do. I can tell that there was drilling going on because the bottom of the two grooves for the masts are pot-marked with what looks like needle pokes. You'll also notice that there are two pencil drawn pictures top and bottom that I'm pretty sure are calling out locations to drill as well. Notice the top mast laying in the middle of the board just above the pencil drawing. At it's left end there is what looks like a small dowel on it's tip. It's actually carved on there and I'm pretty sure that the little oval you see on the end of the drawing below it there indicates, that that is where the bead goes on the top of the mast. Once again a signature element of this building style and perhaps time, as all the builds masts, that I have here, are topped with beads. White ones. This next picture is the flip side of this wooden fixture and is really intriguing. A real mystery!
  37. 7 points
    MickyK

    Hello from Down Under

    Hi All, As I have recently bought a SiB kit, I figured that being a member of this forum should be interesting. I've been building semi-scale, RC controlled model boats for a while, and somehow drifted into miniature Ships in Bottles, (for better or worse!) I bought the Amati "Hannah", thinking that it would be a good starting place, and I think I'm right in that respect. There are a few issues with it, but nothing that isn't surmountable. As I get on with it, I'll post a few photos. Cheers, and looking forward to meeting other members. Mick
  38. 7 points
    Got some time in the Man Cave to work on the base for the bulb and started on the masts and support for the hull. The masts are small wire and sewing needles soldered together. If you look closely there is a gold patina dry-brushed on the base and support structures for the bulb. I made a special little tool to measure the contour of the inside of the bulb as well. Enjoy!
  39. 7 points
  40. 7 points
    Started to paint, using a mixture this time of acrylics and enamels. This is a nightmare for me as I've not got a steady hand! So will need a few touch ups here and there. Not looking forward to doing the black as the lines will have to be super straight for it to look right, any tips? ?
  41. 7 points
    JerseyCity Frankie

    HMS Ramillies, 74

    Carved the hull, reasonably happy with it? It’s 4 1/4” or 11cm long.my usual method is to use a wood hull then glue bulwarks on made of colored paper. In fact all the details, all the deck furniture is laminated colored paper. my new wrinkle on this project was to make stairs from paper laminated to form each step. I alternated two similar colors to make each step visually distinct from the next but I’m not sure it was necessary. My plan for the quarter galleries is to use two-part transparent epoxy, in a technique I once used many years ago. I cut deep grooves at the stern to represent the upper and middle decks and painted their interiors black. In the next step I will mix the epoxy, allow it to almost set then apply it in lumps on either side of the stern and deep into the cut grooves. Being almost stiff the globs will stand out from the hull when they harden. Being transparent the epoxy can then have window framing painted over it. Voila: glazed windows.
  42. 7 points
    Onni

    HMS Gannet

    Made a start. Had to patch some wood that I had together as she will be 22,5 cm long (9 " approx). Luckily a book on HMS Gannet has just been published so I am using it for reference...
  43. 7 points
    Next part is the windlass. The windlass is used to haul anchors and other heavy things on and of the ship. Breaking it down the simplest form is two triangles and a cylinder. Glue those right on deck just behind the bowsprit. Also another couple small pieces. I put in a couple rectangular pieces one just behind the bowsprit and one on the bowsprit. Looking at the photo of the other model it looks like theres a block on a stand just behind the bowsprit and a ships bell on the bowsprit. I did a ships bell this small on the Scavenger but being a beginners build I thought a rectangle on the bowsprit would work. I'll put a dot of gold paint where the bell goes. From here I need to add cannons and then start on masts and rigging.
  44. 7 points
    Then I checked the rest parts of the model.
  45. 7 points
    Then I hung the boat with the threads and filled the silicone into bottle.The fill of the "sea" was made in the evening. In the morning, the silicone was already half-set, but it was found that, due to the leakage of the seam between the halves of the boat, some of the silicone seeped into the boat. I had to spend a couple of hours "scooping up" the "water" from the boat. The last photo was made during this process.
  46. 7 points
    Then I made a couple more bottles of rum
  47. 7 points
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Greetings, When I first tried the apple wood I was surprised that it was both strong and stiff enough at very small diameters for the spars. I did a little checking online, and apparently some fruit woods, including apple, have extra membranes that grow across the "normal" grain of other woods, which makes it much less likely to split at even small sized pieces. So far as I can tell, this is true. I've had some apple wood given to me, and some from ebay purchases, the gifted wood was a darker brown color, while all the ebay apple wood was pure white with only tiny imperfections, knots. Thanks to all for the kind words. While progress is slow, I will post when I have accomplished. Anchor's A Weigh! John
  48. 7 points
  49. 7 points
    Shipbuilder

    Primrose Hill

    British four-masted barque Primrose Hill, 32 feet to 1 inch. It was in this ship, that Charles Ligtoller, 2nd officer of the Titanic, began his sea career. Bob
  50. 7 points
    Alex Bellinger

    Ratlines?

    I've also used fly tying silk, and the finest I've found is UNI Thread 8/0. I've heard of finer ones, but the 12/0 sold by Orvis was actually no finer than the 8/0. I still use super glue, and with practice and by using only fresh glue I have been able to keep the stiffness down. I will certainly try Dave suggestion with acrylic varnish. Here are the ratlines on the shrouds of an unidentified merchant ship in a 5 liter bottle. The main thing that has helped is the practice of trying it to get a better feel for the job.
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