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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/09/2020 in Posts

  1. 9 points
    Spanky

    Mayflower

    Slowly building her up, scuppers, more planking. I have been playing with this for a couple weeks and this is the point I am at currently.
  2. 9 points
    tazam0827

    Asgard

    It occurred to me that I never finished this build log. Didn't want to leave you all hanging. I'm sure you were on the edge of your seat! I wasn't super happy with the results. But in the interest of sharing our disappointments as well as our triumphs, here it is. I should have spent more time smoothing the hull after I made some design changes, The proportion of the masts wasn't quite right and I think I should have included the topsails. Also, if you're going to make your ship heel, make sure it heels towards the front of the bottle. Otherwise it hides a lot of the deck features and makes it less interesting. On the plus side, I like the way the lighthouse on the bluff looks, and I finally figured out a Turk's Head knot!
  3. 8 points
    I'm just about done with the deck details. I included as many upgrades, embellishments, improvements and details (also mistakes) as I dared. I had some materials left over from two other models that I put to use. I early abandoned all hope of historical accuracy and the scale of the model is too small for true accuracy so I decided to make the model "my own": I upgraded the cannon barrels and carriages and lashed them down; I included two swivel guns in the aft; I fashioned cannon balls from pin heads and mounted them into the ball racks; I made belaying pins from brass wire (I also had some left-overs); I made jackstay eyebolts from brass wire and put the rings in the ring boxes; I found some chain for the anchors and I improved the bowsprit construction. I am most particularly proud of the 21 ft ship's boat that I fashioned out of scrap planking and made a mini planked-up boat out of. This was my first attempt at trying to do this and I planked the boat onto a false frame that I then later chiseled out. I decided to go with the "ship that's been to sea look" than the "ship that came right out of the ship yard" look so somethings look ragged, worn, rusted and damaged (at least that's my excuse!). I'm finishing the bowsprit rigging now. I also fashioned some deadeyes from 3/16" dowel (maybe not the right scale) and mounted them on brass wire chain plates and decided on a "double channel" mounting for them because they would be too difficult to rig if I mounted them against the side boards. On to the foremast next!
  4. 8 points
    John Fox III

    Paper Mache Hulls

    Greetings All, I had the idea of taking a method for making ship's boats I developed and testing whether it might work for much larger hulls. It was all experimental, so I wasn't taking photos as I worked, but since the idea worked out well I redid all the work covering it with photos to show how. Some of you may have seen my work with ship's boat hulls being made by using a plug of the hull shape, covering that plug with cigarette papers whetted with diluted white (pva} glue. Believe I have a video showing how this is done on Vimeo, do not have the URL for that but you can look it up on their site. Basically, laying the whetted paper over the plug, then using a wet toothpick to smooth it down tight to the entire plug, folding the paper over at bow and stern. After waiting 24 hours for the glue to dry/harden, adding another layer. For most ship's boats I would do 4 layers of paper. I would then cover the paper with either cyanoacrylate glue or varnish to harden it. Excess paper was cut away at the top of the bulwarks, and then the paper hull was popped off of the plug. The biggest problem with repeating for more than a single boat of the same shape and size was that cutting the excess paper sometimes cut the plug top, so I added a piece of shim brass of .005" thick to the top of the plug. Photos below show some views of this work, including finishing the interior of the boats with thin wood or plastic pieces. In some cases I used 0.015" thick maple veneer to plank the outside of the boats. These boats ranged from 1/2" to 1-1/4" long. More to follow in subsequent posts.
  5. 8 points
    Spanky

    Mayflower

    Working out the bow (prow?) section and how to get it through bottle neck without problems.
  6. 8 points
    Bruce Foxworthy

    Viking Ship

    I've been able to work on my Viking ship the last few days. With all this staying home now, I think I'll start moveing along better in the coming week. Here are some pics of where she's at presently. Stay safe guys and gals.
  7. 7 points
    I began this tread under the title "Cheap-O Plank on Frame Brig" hoping that someone might help me identify exactly what this kit might be. Well I figured it out by researching riggings for sloops, which led me to schooners which led me to Baltimore Clippers which led me to the Harvey (The Pride of Baltimore is a different ship) which has the exact deck plan as this model. True to modern day fashion, there is a You Tube Video of someone who experienced exactly my same plight and bought one of these kits and then figured it out. Of course by now I have made various blunders trying to do things the way I thought they should be done since I didn't really have much for instructions. I gave her a coat of paint, which hides a lot of sins but the paint scheme is more 1747 instead of 1847 ( I needed a lot of oakum and tallow on the hull). I have to say the quality control on the kit is lax; many of the parts that were suppose to mate don't, A few parts are missing, some parts I don't know what they are for but that became fewer as I pieced together the deck furniture and I can figure out where some of the left over parts go. The sail plan doesn't include the square sails on the main mast and I had to research the lengths of the masts, yards, booms and gaffs which I found. Apparently there are more accessories that I can buy that include brass cannons and belaying pins but I don't see any blocks or deadeyes available. Since this is a SIB site I won't bore the audience with the rest of the build. I may post a final picture when I finish. But the Harvey is an interesting ship, actually it was a merchant ship outfitted with guns for protection against pirates which were then still numerous. She sailed the California coast around the days of the Gold Rush so she may have had precious cargo. I was defiantly more "intellectually engaged' trying to solve this puzzle then if I had a kit that was well planned and easier to assemble - but I won't end up with a museum piece, which would have been unlikely in any case! Experience is the only way to grow.
  8. 7 points
    John Fox III

    Paper Mache Hulls

    Greetings All, As the paper hull work continues I've made up a keel piece that includes the slot for the drop keel. It was assembled from pieces of 1/32" thick maple veneer that was hand sanded down to 0.020" thick, then glued together as shown. The cutout to match the keel area of the paper hull was then made, and the keel glued to the paper hull itself. Additionally I added a 1/16" thick cedar stern face to the back of the paper hull, it is intentionally made thicker than needed, and will be sanded down to 1/16" later in the work. I then took the same maple veneer sanded down to 0.012"-0.015" thick and cut it into 1/32" wide strips. These were then glued to the hull, starting with two planks at the top of bulwarks and two along the keel, to both sides of the hull. I used cyanoacrylate glue to glue each plank to the paper and the next plank added. I then added two more to each location, and repeated until the hull was completely planked over. At this point the planks are not even and smooth, slight variations in their thickness, so I then sanded the planking even and smooth. I should mention that this planking method is not "normal" in it's method, my only intention was to strengthen the paper hull. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  9. 7 points
    Onni

    CSS Alabama

    She's ready. Took some photographs outside in the natural light. Painted the knot red but then got inspired to make a red,white and blue theme with stars on the stopper. The anchor with a line under it on the bottle top, is a nod to the Davenport crockery found at the wreak site. Hope you like it.
  10. 7 points
    Spanky

    Mayflower

    Working out some deck rails.
  11. 7 points
    Spanky

    Mayflower

    How to get that shape in there? This has busted my brain a little, but I am going to go with a split deck in addition to the hull. Perhaps I am a glutton for punishment.
  12. 7 points
    Spanky

    Mayflower

    I have not had much luck with split hulls so far, nor Galleon type ships because of their inherent shape. Being hard headed, and becoming more patient with each build, it has become a personal challenge to get a split hull properly in there.
  13. 7 points
    James w rogers

    1st miniature sib

    Things are moving along quite well, boats ready, bottles ready, I'm not😂 And there will be a surprise in store! As its a kraken bottle! It's going to be a tight squeeze! 😂
  14. 7 points
    MickyK

    HMB Endeavour, a scratch build

    Hi All. I've done the hand-rails,(Gunnels?, Capping rails?, Bannisters?, Not sure of the correct terminology.) Made from polyester thread, wiped with super-glue (CA), then wiped with a rag. Makes the thread quite rigid. Then glued with CA. The canons aren't loaded yet, but they are made from styrene. Cheers Mick
  15. 6 points
    Spanky

    Mayflower

    Made some grating, doors into the forecastle and ladder steps down it's front.
  16. 6 points
    Chasseur

    HMS Wivern by Chausseur

    I must apologize for my inactivity. Between change management at work, taking care of my aging mother, and now COVID-19, things are a bit hairy these days. Anyway some progress as follows:
  17. 6 points
    Lubber123

    Cheap-O Plank on Frame Brig Kit

    After a fashion I managed to plank the hull, which wasn't an easy task without a sheer line plan. Also the ribs on the bulkheads weren't quite precise and I had no plan to fair them up to. The transom didn't make much sense to me and I was sure I was missing a part for it so I ended up fashioning a piece and had to change the lines of the hull somewhat. It worked better on the starboard side than on the port side. I don't think the model would win any prizes if closely examined by experts but then again it isn't a "museum quality" model kit; it's another generic "Privateer" - a merchant ship that was converted for military use. I assembled all the various deck furnishings and ended up with extra pieces I can't identify, one of which I think was the transom piece I was looking for, I think. I loosely placed some of the deck furnishings for the photo. I think the cannons look a little hokey and I can't quite decide to include them or not. I may liven up the carriages for them by painting them red, which I've seen on historically restored cannons. Next step is painting the hull then trying to figure out the masts and rigging. I have no dimensions for the masts and spars but was provided with a actual scale sail plan that I can back- solve from.
  18. 6 points
    Onni

    CSS Alabama

    Funnel with smoke in place together with the bridge. Foremast fixed and rigging tied down. Just the bowsprit left and she's ready to be corked.
  19. 6 points
    Spanky

    Mayflower

    A little planking, cannon ports cut out.
  20. 6 points
    Spanky

    Mayflower

    I found a cool apothecary bottle that is pretty clean and clear that I think will work nicely.
  21. 6 points
    John Fox III

    Paper Mache Hulls

    Greetings All, The next installment of my paper mache hull project is for a much larger hull. This particular hull is for a sandbagger, roughly 3 times larger than any of the ship's boat hulls I've done in the past, at 3-3/4" long and 1-1/2" wide. The plug was made from basswood, cut to. vertical cross sections spaced at 2' to the 1/8" scale. The wood was carved to shape using templates, then sanded and sealed multiple times to get it smooth and water tight. The first hull I used cigarette papers, but that turned out to be problematic as it took many papers to cover the hull, with lots of overlapping. The second time I decided to use tissue paper, the kind one often finds in gifts and such. It was white, but I used some brown wiping stain to get a color that looked more wood like, as at least some areas of the interior of the hull would be visible on the final model. I used 4 layers of paper, letting it dry for 24 hours between layers. The excess was cut off at the top of bulwarks after each 2 layers, and finally the hull was sanded to smooth out the overlaps at stern and bow. Lastly I put several coats of varnish on the paper hull, sanding lightly in between, to harden the outer surface of the hull. Most to follow. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  22. 6 points
    James w rogers

    1st miniature sib

    The KRAKEN 😲😲 needs a few things to finish off I.e Cork and stand but happy I managed to pull it off. 😁
  23. 6 points
    Lubber123

    Authenic Models Privateer

    I finished rigging my "Privateer" and she looked very ship-shape on the rigging stand. I prepared my putty sea using plumber's putty that I had colored with oil paints. I had some left over from about a year ago which was just the right consistency. I tried not to over do the sea and used uncolored putty for the white foam. Next was setting her to "sea". I found I had a very tight fit and probably should have trimmed the hull just a bit thinner. I found this to be a general issue with most of the parts in the kit that they all needed some trimming down or fairing out. The bottle didn't quite fit the stand correctly so the stand needed to be shaped down before I epoxied the bottle to it. The inside of the cap would have needed to be thinned out in order to fit over the bottle treads but I just glued a cork stopper into it to make it removable. All didn't go very smoothly. I ripped a sail on the main mast off off its yardarm during insertion. The sail material is a stiff fabric which allows the sails to be shaped nicely before insertion but holds a crease and I ended up creasing the spanker sail with no hope of reshaping it. The model ended up a bit more "wind blown" then I would have liked and took some damage during insertion but I finished her off anyway with a decorative knot on the neck using the provided yarn. I have had better luck with models I made from scratch using my own materials and plans. I suppose the down fall of kit construction is not knowing what shapes are reliable and not having any previous experience with the provided materials so one doesn't know how they will behave. The beginner has to trust that all the materials in the kit have been proven and tested, which may be a naïve assumption. So for a kit that was suppose to be "beginner level", this wasn't some "snap the pieces together and be done" affair and requires a bit of sophistication. I always learn something every time I build a kit or follow a build from a book which allows me the knowledge to do my own scratch builds. I have a good collection of kits so I'll post more when I build them.
  24. 6 points
    Onni

    CSS Alabama

    Okay,time to glue the hull in place. Which epoxy;60 minutes or the five minutes setting time? Yeah you probably guessed it, 5 minutes for me; I want things done quickly!Just got to make sure that its in the right place;quite a hot chemical reaction is felt through the glass! After its set I add the plastasine in two seperate pieces through the neck of the bottle. Even with dried wood glue on the top which gives the sea a nice gloss ,it dosen't crack,in fact its actually a bit rubbery. Then I continue to tamp the modelled sea down all around the hul especially at the stern because after I fix the stern piece on, its gonna be virtually impossible to reach that area without damaging something.Next stage will be to glue the stern in place.I will only be able to have one shot at it!
  25. 6 points
    Onni

    CSS Alabama

    The inside view of the starboard side looks as though its not sitting flush because that is the area I had to cut away a bit more material but it is flush on the outside of the hull where it matters. Last photo is the two sides mated and glued together with white wood glue. When that fully dries I will glue the completed hull to the glass.
  26. 6 points
    Onni

    CSS Alabama

    Nah,didn't want to do that;its the piece that supports the main mast. In the end I just closed my eyes and pushed it in. As luck would have it, just one of the davits came off and was actually pretty easy to glue back on.Had to do a bit of touch up painting on it.
  27. 6 points
    Onni

    CSS Alabama

    Starboard side.Bottom piece of the hull goes in no problem but the top half with those davits and lifeboat is.Somethings going to have to give😰
  28. 5 points
    Spanky

    Mayflower

    One step forward, two steps back. Made what I thought was a binnacle on the plans, until I realized they were not yet invented during the reign of the Mayflower. I also broke the rails on the upper deck so I will leave that for a little later. I managed a capstan, some stairs and a bit more grating.
  29. 5 points
    Spanky

    Mayflower

    With this social isolation, and being newly retired, I thought I would launch into a new build. I bought some "plans" off ebay of the Mayflower for $5.00. Basically a few sheets of paper with some good information, ...but it's in German. At any rate I knew this ahead off time and just needed the basics to start.
  30. 5 points
    A hoy! I have been working on the masts, yards and ratlines. I bought some fly tying silk and it is very fine. However it is not a single strand, but multiple ultrafine threads laid up together. They are not braided together, which means they easily fray and seperate. But I'm reasonably happy with the results I've got for the ratlines. Shroud lines are standard sowing thread. I set the shrouds up with the correct number of strands and angle, then overlaid the silk ratlines. With tape holding everything in place I dabbed super glue all over it, then absorbed/wiped up the excess glue. Following Onni's advice, I will fix the shroud lines to the mast now, and then glue the base of them to the hull sides later. I made each side of the shrouds on the same strands. This allows me to simply fold the shrouds in half and tie to the mast under the platforms. I've noticed a lot of folks drill holes in their masts and yards to pass rigging through, however it sometimes requires larger mast/yard diameters to allow a through hole. I've chosen to try and keep the mast diameters small, and taper my yards in an attempt to be scale. It means I can't drill through them, I've tried to no success with a no.75 drill. So I'll have to come up with another solution for running rigging between the yard tips, I think it will involve thread blocks. I've experimented with yard braces. It works well I think. There is a small thread block tied to the mast and the yard braces passes through it. When the yard is pivoted to be parallel with the mast (for bottle entry) the line goes slack. When the yard is then pivoted to perpendicular the line goes back to tight. Convenient geometry of triangles and pivot points. My latest problem is how to make the rear cabins. I need to build them up because I haven't carved them out. For shaping the actual windows I can't cut timber panels accurately enough, nor does the grain of the wood allow it. So I have experimented with two methods of creating windows: One is to stamp the shape. So I made a little metal punch to stamp the shape of the window onto a piece of wood that I can then glue to the sides and back. The second is to try and imprint the shape of the windows onto a piece of wood. I bent some tin to shape and sharpened its edges. A light tap imprints the profile. Neither of these methods produce amazing results but it's better than nothing. Does anyone have a way of reliably repeating the exact same cabin window shape? My next major tasks are to work on the prow detail and stairs on the deck. Hope you're all staying safe. Regards, Caleb.
  31. 5 points
    John Fox III

    Paper Mache Hulls

    Greetings All, Continuing on with my paper mache hull saga, I removed the planked paper hull from the plug. This was done by carefully slipping the tip of a #11 exacto blade between the plug and paper and tracing around the plug edge. At first I just barely inserted the blade tip, careful to follow the angle of the hull while inserting. Later I made my cuts a little deeper, where possible, the curvature of the hull at the edge near the stern is too sharp to allow much depth. The stern was reinforced with the wooden piece, in that area I used a flat chisel made from a piece of razor blade secured into the end of a piece of 1/8" brass tubing. The chisel was inserted between paper and plug, and pushed down as far as the hull shape would allow. I then used the chisel as a lever to slowly lift the stern area to remove the plug from the hull. The first photo shows the hull at this point. The second photo shows the result of cutting out the drop keel opening in the paper and inserting a piece of 1/32nd maple veneer, this was used to hold the hull during further work. Next step was to make in interior keel piece, made similarly to the method for the outer keel. The next 3 photos show what this looked like, with the caveat that after making the piece I decided to go with one made from pieces of cedar wood, which was the next photo. The interior keel was cut out in the main cockpit area and just after of the bow area, leaving the rest at bulwarks level for the keel well. The cockpit area was cut away to the level of the bottom of the deck and grating level. See how I made the grating in an earlier post in Odds and Ends.The maple piece used to hold the hull was used to align the interior keel piece by inserting the maple holder piece through the hull and interior keel. The interior keel was then glued in place. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  32. 5 points
    James w rogers

    San paolo 1743 xambekk malta.

    Back to it after a bit of a break. Anyway, hope you're all OK? Given the current situation. Finally tackled the job I've been putting for ages as I was hoping to find something for the overhanging grated deck, but alas nothing suitable came about, so I'm having to try and make it from scratch with a very small drill bit in my dremel. Not going to look to scale but hopefully won't stand out to much! The Hull, so far, is already cut in half and dowelled and sitting on its locating plug which will be set into the sea.
  33. 5 points
    MickyK

    HMB Endeavour, a scratch build

    Hi All. A bit more progress! The Main and Mizzen are now on deck, at the moment just sitting there. I think I'll do the lower shrouds at a later date, mainly so they don't get damaged, and more importantly, they don't get tangled! I've put the sheets on the gaff sail, and they are becoming a nightmare, so those bits and pieces of thread which will end up hanging out of the bottle come launching time will be sorted out later. Still a bit more to do! Cheers, and stay safe. Mick
  34. 5 points
    While I was searching eBay for SIB kits, I came across this plank-on-frame brig kit for sale for $15 (USD). It is a made-in-China set of laser cut wood parts, not too much different from my Model Shipways plank-on-frame 18th Century Long Boat kit except my MS kit had an excellent instruction booklet and well labeled parts. In typical made-in-China cheap-o fashion, this kit has a double sided sheet of a poorly labeled diagram for construction instructions, some of the parts aren't labeled, there is no (English) alphabetic order to the sequence of construction, or a color photo of what the final build should look like. So of the parts I have no idea what they are suppose to be and it took me about two hours to figure out which part was the transom. But, I've spent a lot more money for a lot less entertainment. Since I have some plank-on-frame experience and a copy of Charles G. Davis' "The Built Up Ship Model" which features the build of the brig-of-was USS Lexington, which this model kind of resembles, I may as well have some fun trying to make something of this. I don't suggest a kit like this for someone who doesn't know how to bend a plank to make a planked up hull and there are no instructions on how to paint the model, or make the sails or even how to rig it so beginners steer clear. -do=add#.url -do=add#.url -do=add#.url -do=add#.url -do=add#.url -do=add#.url -do=add#.url
  35. 5 points
    James w rogers

    1st miniature sib

  36. 5 points
    James w rogers

    1st miniature sib

  37. 5 points
    Onni

    CSS Alabama

    Main mast in place. Giving all the masts a small tilt/rake backwards as I believe she had them that way. Behind the main mast is the skylight to the boiler room.Soon we will have steam power!
  38. 5 points
    Jeff B

    USS Permit (SSN- 594)

    1963-1993 While other teenagers were driving cars... I was driving a multimillion dollar state of the art master of seas. Loved it so much, I begged the Skipper for reenlistment and to let me do another "hitch" on her rather than go to shore duty. Being fully aware ware of the dimensions, as I've walked them many times, and was quizzed to pass ships submarine quals, it's to scale. Couldn't get the rudder fin in. She's maximum knots, it's buried in foam. She had just came out the shipyard and was refitted with sound dampening rubber on all noise making machinery, and a new reactor core. She was the fastest and quietest of her class. The next class was faster, but the Permit was still quieter. "First to fire" the Mark 48 torpedo and the Subroc. The rest is classified. Got the idea from Dan.
  39. 5 points
    Onni

    CSS Alabama

    In my haste to start putting her in the bottle I forgot to take a picture of all the components(pieces)that go to making her up. Oh well! Start with the port side because I know it fits alright because it's narrower than the starboard side. Pieces fit together well and I'm not even going to glue them because the rest of the hull and decking will hold it all together when they are glued.(I hope).
  40. 4 points
    John Fox III

    HMS Wivern by Chausseur

    Great work, and at a scale only a Lilipution and I can love! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  41. 4 points
    Jeff B

    Thread Recommendation

    Good idea, except it's a direct violation of the This Hobby Is Not Going To Cost Any Money Treaty, made with Mama Bear.😀 Jeff
  42. 4 points
    DSiemens

    Coronavirus around the world.

    I'm sorry I haven't been around much its been crazyness around here. I work for a hospital system so it's been a little wild. I work in taxes so it's less crazy for me than at our sites but I have had to move my office to home. They've set up a full task Covid19 force in the office that looks like a war room. Lots of people on computers, some one always upfront taking information and giving out orders and the token pacing person in the back of the room. If it weren't so serious it would be comical. I guess we half to chuckle at some things to keep from going a little nuts. I am proud to see my organization is taking things very seriously. I do worry about all of you out there and my friends in the Rocky Mountain Shipwrights. I'm young enough I'll be fine but we have a lot of older members. Be careful out there and try to be safe.
  43. 4 points
    John Fox III

    Paper Mache Hulls

    Thanks for the idea! I have tried using thin oil and petroleum jelly, but it makes it more difficult to get the paper to stay in place while smoothing out the wrinkles and overlaps. I never have an easy job removing the boat hulls from the plugs, I just work around the top edges of the paper hull with the tip of a #11 exacto blade several times and then pop them off. Haven't had one tear or break yet. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  44. 4 points
    Bruce Foxworthy

    Viking Ship

    Well I think I've made a big mistake today. I decided to cut away the Bulwarks from the deck thinking that I was going to put them the shields and oars in one at a time after the main part of the hull and sail were done inside the bottle. Anyway I made a complete mess of it so now I'm strategizing plan B.
  45. 4 points
    There are a lot of positive things about it as well. The death rate is very low. The air in China is already far cleaner than it has been for years, and their health is increasing rapidly. Air travel has been cut by 75% and that has taken a consdiearble amount of pollution out of the atmosphere. Same with automobiles - cities with streets practically devoid of petrol fumes. There will be fewer traffic accidents. This may terrify some, but it is of tremendous benefit to the envoirnment. I am in the "higher risk" category, (age 76) but I am more than happy to see all thse polluting activities severely curtailed. I am confident that the removal of pollution on a big scale will very quickly bring about recovery of the world's health (after all, it is respiratory) - and then they can all go back to polluting again!😟 Bob
  46. 4 points
    MickyK

    Coronavirus around the world.

    Hi All, I'm down-under, and it's happening here as well. There seem to be "pockets" of contagion around Sydney, and most of them seem to have been instigated by people that had traveled into Aust from overseas. Now, like everywhere, there are travel bans in place, much tighter screening at airports, no large gatherings of people, most of our major sporting events either behind closed doors, or cancelled for the foreseeable future. The 3 deaths, so far, have been the elderly, living in nursing homes. My particular "self-isolation" is because I don't have much of a social life!! You may have seen on the TV news about our shortage of toilet paper, no-one has been able to explain "why toilet paper", I can under stand non-perishable food stuffs etc. So I hope everybody stays well, and it is a very good excuse to get on with your hobbies. Cheers Mick
  47. 4 points
    Onni

    CSS Alabama

    Managed to get the stern piece seated properly;quite pleased with that! Glued a deck winch and then inserted and glued the mizzen mast in place. Sails and flag are made from one of my old white shirts Last photo shows close up of the deck,cannons,hatches etc...One thing to say about threading rigging lines through the small deck eyelets; it can be quite frustrating, bit like threading a needle but doing it inside a bottle!
  48. 4 points
    Jeff B

    USS Permit (SSN- 594)

    A picture is worth 1000 words... I took the conning tower off. It's just held in by deep wire pins cut from paper clips. I bent the front periscope to plumb vertical. Having a boost of confidence, I made a rudder, and tested my nerves and blood pressure with insertion. It worked this time, after a half hour of flopsin the sea.
  49. 4 points
    exwafoo

    Swap Head tool

    Hi James, All Thanks for your comments No patent pending. Would not make any difference to a certain Far Eastern Country who would just copy and market it if they felt it would make money, like they have with so many other peoples ideas, Anyway, I've drawn it up and coupled with the phots you can build one if desired. The idea can always be adapted to suit whats available, Best for now Alan
  50. 3 points
    George Hudson

    Cheers from Oregon

    Subject: Chair in a Bottle. Hello, My name is George Hudson and I live in McMinnville, Oregon. I am not a bottled ship builder but I admire the art. When my grandmother died I inherited a bottle which has a chair built inside of it. It has wooden stopper with a wooden locking bar. This chair in the bottle was constructed by one of my relatives, probably in the 1920’s. I have some pictures but this message system doesn’t seem to allow photo posting. Over the years of “family examination” the stopper’s locking bar has loosened and fallen inside the bottle. The chair is still in place but the stopper can now be removed. I would like to find someone that has the skill and tools to restore the locking bar back into the stopper. I’m uncomfortable mailing the bottle so I would like to find a bottled ship builder who lives in Oregon so I can bring the bottle in person. Thank You, George Hudson McMinnville, Oregon Email: gdhudson@aol.com
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