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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    New to forum, I got into the hobby back in the late 1970"s buying my first kit from Model Expo in NJ. I met Mr. Frank Mastini there, and ended up becoming a student of his. I recently retired and am now getting back into ship building. Currently started a Mamoli Alabama, and an old Authentic models kit Princess Royal Ship in a Bottle, which I picked up at the Disney World Souvenir shop outside the Pirates of the Caribbean Ride. Totally different feel from building a plank on frame, I find it more enjoyable & relaxing, not to mention a lot smaller mess & footprint to deal with. Looking forward to tips & tricks & checking out your Bottle builds! Thanks Lobo
  2. 1 point
    John Fox III

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    Here are some photos of the second James Miller model. It is housed in a 9" diameter clock that was made to look like a pocket watch case. The case is actually cast bronze, quite heavy.
  3. 1 point
    It's a bamboo skewer dimension right now 7.5 cm Long 2 cm wide J.
  4. 1 point

    Hello from Down Under

    Hi All, As I have recently bought a SiB kit, I figured that being a member of this forum should be interesting. I've been building semi-scale, RC controlled model boats for a while, and somehow drifted into miniature Ships in Bottles, (for better or worse!) I bought the Amati "Hannah", thinking that it would be a good starting place, and I think I'm right in that respect. There are a few issues with it, but nothing that isn't surmountable. As I get on with it, I'll post a few photos. Cheers, and looking forward to meeting other members. Mick
  5. 1 point
    Sometime in mid April, I began to build my first SIB in nearly 40 years. Although I had several older books on the subject to reference, I was curious to see what U-tube had on it about the subject and that's when I discovered this forum. Glad I did as there is wealth of information and apparently a lot of great guys contributing to this wonderful spot on the net. I love seeing the other builds and soaking up the combined techniques you guys have so willingly shared. Some of which I've employed in my recent build. What a place to grow with in this art form. Good on you. I'm a mostly retired research and development process guy at a German Based machine tool manufacturer specializing in extreme precision geometry of all sorts. I've spent a couple of decades looking through a microscope there so wearing magnifying glasses is second nature to me in many respects. I also have been restoring antique clocks for a long time. A fascinating hobby I just adore. I'm seventy years old now and have an adoring wife who somehow has managed to put up with my creative juices all these years. That's a big plus for me. We have three great kids the last one is midway through collage on his way to becoming a Dr. of Chiropractic. We live on a small Lake about forty miles north of Detroit Michigan. When I was a younger man I did a lot of sailing all around the Great Lakes and have owned several boats in those years. I'm looking forward to getting to know all of you and hopefully I'll be able to contribute to the forum here and there along the way. So that's my bit. Happy to be a member of Bottled Ship builders. Steady as she goes and regards from Bruce Foxworthy
  6. 1 point
    Bruce Foxworthy

    I Made 12 Inch Tweezers

    Putting together my first SIB in nearly 40 years, all of a sudden I needed a pair of long tweezers that I didn't have. I looked them up in Micro Marts online catalog and saw that they were $13 plus shipping, plus time. Well that wouldn't due. So undaunted, I thought to myself a trip to Home Depot, and I'll be back in business in no time. These tweezers are 12 inches long, 3/8 inches wide, and 1/16 thick and tapered to a 1/8 inch square tip. They are easy to make, cheap and work great. Because aluminum is soft I can bend an angle or radius at the tip in the future if need be. I picked up a 3 foot long piece of aluminum angle iron and cut 24 inches off of the 1/2 inch side on my band saw, (a hack saw will work too). I cut that length in half, clamped the two pieces together with the sawed sides up in my vice and started filing till I got them roughly 3/8 wide the full 12 inches. Then I started filing a tapered angle, (starting 5 inches back from the end), one side at a time to bring the pieces to a 1/8 inch wide square pointed end. I buffed out the scratches from the filing with Scotch Brite pad. Next I cut a piece of 3/16 x 3/8 wood stock I just happen to have for making deck furniture 2 1/2 inches long and five minute epoxied that between the two pieces at the ends. I scribed X's on the surface of the aluminum where it was to be glued so that it would take a better bond. At this point I tried using them just like this but found that it was to difficult, for me anyway, to keep constant pressure on them while I was busy navigating inside the bottle, dropping stuff all the time and such. So I devised a way to keep them constantly closed with an adjustable sliding opener. I put a screw and nut on between the halves of the blades. I cut the screw off just long enough so it could easily slide back and forth. Then I peened the end of it over to insure that the nut wouldn't come off. Because my nut was so much larger than the head of the screw I wound up filing the points of the nut down till the nut wasn't sticking out so much. I put a piece of electrical tape over the surface of the tweezers blade so the file wouldn't scratch it's face in the process. Finally I slid the screw all the way next to the wood and using a pair of needle nose pliers firmly gripped the blade next to the screw and parallel to it. Then pushing down on the butt end of the tweezers with one hand and twisting the pliers over to the right and down with the other hand I introduced an angle bend on each side of the blades. This keeps the blades permanently closed with some considerable pressure at the tip. To open the tip, just slide the screw towards the tip. To close down on your part just back the screw away from the tip. Easy. So there you go. I hope this helps someone else out. I'm sure this concept will work fine for any length of tweezers you may need to make for your bottles. I've only been a member of this forum for about six week now and I'm still reading all over it. I know you guys have put a lot of your knowledge and experience forward which has helped me tremendously with my current build. I'm doing things I never had a clue about before thanks to your generous input. I'm happy to contribute to the forum and will continue to do so in the future. Regards and sail on. Bruce Foxworthy
  7. 1 point
    John Fox III

    How do you make ratlines?

    Greetings All, Here are a few photos taken while adding the ratlines to the shrouds on my James Miller models. The jib was made from 1/16" thick maple veneer, holes drilled to match the distance between ratlines. The line used was 8/0 fly tying thread, rigged as shown in first two photos. 3rd photo shows the jig fastened to the shrouds with an insect mounting pin at the top and a pair of miniature clothes pins and a small piece of bamboo split down on the bottom. CA glue was applied to all points that the ratlines behind touched the shrouds. The shrouds for these models was made from 3 pieces of 8/0 thread made into rope on my miniature rope walk. The final photo shows the finished job, after cutting the ratlines at the outside edges of the shrouds. Hope that helps!! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  8. 1 point

    Ship in Bottle Repair

    Well I had my first opportunity at ship in bottle repair. It was entirely different than I expected I'd do with a ship in bottle repair but I got it back together. I should have got a picture before I got it back together but when the gentlemen brought it over the mizzen main sail was floating around the bottle totally detached. I had to maneuver it in place and glue it down. Took two hours but I did it. Funny thing with glass ships. There no wiggle room.
  9. 1 point

    Hello From Holland

    Finally took the time to subscribe. Only took me a few years. I love the SIBs I see here and at MSW where some of you folks may know me from. I might even try my hand at a large version of a bottled ship. But first things first: finish my current plastic & PE builds.
  10. 1 point

    Hello From Holland

    WOW! Hi Carl! I'm glad to see you here! Best Regards! Igor.
  11. 1 point

    How do you make ratlines?

    That looks great. Your doing an awesome job. I like that your not afraid to go small with your bulwarks, rails, masts and yard arms. Gives the ship a more realistic look. I sometimes think you can tell a good ship in bottle because you could imagine yourself walking around on deck. I can do that with your model. I've never been on a real sailing ship either. Biggest I've been on is a day sailing dinghy which isn't much. It is kind of funny being from a land locked state in the US that I'd be so into sailing ships. There's just a sense of adventure to them that I like. The more you get into this hobby the more you learn. I happen to be in a ship modeling club as well with people that build the big static models. 1:50 scale or bigger sort of models. There is a tendency to get particular about historical details and scale in that group and I fall into that sometimes and build in that way but, my way is not THE way, it's just one way. There is room for all types of building in the art though so I think people should be as technical or not technical as they like. Ultimately it's about having fun. A great example is an Etsy shop I came across from a builder in Ukraine. Brenner is the name he has on Etsy and he has some of the most beautiful ships in bottles I have ever seen. They are artistically amazing. They are not at all scale, or historically accurate and don't have a lot of detail. None of that matters, they are beautiful. Here's a link. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Wardroom?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=696912513 Anyway that was a big tangent just to say build how you want, at your own pace, and have fun.
  12. 1 point

    How do you make ratlines?

    The forum is very slow but not dead. There are a ton of different ratline methods. I've seen people use lace, or even photo etching. There's good and bad to all methods. I agree that lace or screening doesn't look the best and metal being hard is harder to get into the bottle. I haven't tried all the methods but I can tell you what works well for me. There's two parts ratlines and it maybe obvious but I'll point them out just so every one understands my terminology. The lines connecting the mast to the ship and run more or less vertically are called shrouds. The lines that work as ladders and run horizontally are called ratlines. Since I usually use the folding method the tightness of the shrouds is important for setting the rake or angle of the mast. So while some builders make their shrouds and ratlines separate and add them on to the ship after the two parts are combined, I put the shrouds on first then add the ratlines. I like to make my shrouds with a single line weaving back and forth from the ship to the mast. This makes tightening easy since I pull the line and move the mast back and forth to tighten the shrouds. Once the shrouds are tightened I tie down and glue down the last line. Then I move on to the ratlines. With the mast pulled forward and shrouds tight I glue on the ratlines. This can be done one by one or you can use a frame. Place the frame between the mast on the shrouds and glue the ratlines to the shrouds. I've used superglue and white glue. Both work fine. I will say superglue dries stiff so try not to use to much. Also if you get to much on the line it may leave a white blob. These can be painted over if needed. If you use white glue try using the frame to keep the lines in place while the glue dries. That tends to work well. Test the lines once the glue is dry to make sure they are secure. Then cut off the excess with follicle clippers. I describe this method in more detail in my Bermuda sloop build log and there is more pictures.
  13. 1 point

    Trio in a Triangle Bottle

    I’ve been continuing to follow the examples in Jack Needham’s “Modeling Ships in Bottles”. I had already finished the first example “A Simple Model for Beginners”. Although I am more experienced than a basic beginner, I found making the basic model to be a good refresher. I don’t follow Needham’s method of rigging; I don’t use as many control lines as he suggests and I rig the shrouds in to holes in the gunnels instead of rigging them through the underside of the hull. Here I progressed to his second model, a four masted lumber schooner. I had the dilemma of trying to find an appropriate bottle for it since the model is long but not very tall. I also had a uniquely shaped bottle that my father had saved for me many years ago with the thought that “maybe you could put a ship in it someday”. It’s a long tapered triangle shaped bottle that once contained Sicilian Gold Marsala. So as a tribute to my Sicilian ancestry I wanted to use the bottle. I switched over from the clay-dough modeling clay I had previously used and instead purchased some plumber’s putty that I colored with water-soluble artist grade oil paints mixing Ultramarine Blue with some Viridian Green for the sea, using the base neutral color for the wave tops. I also switched back to cloth sails which I seem to prefer. Once I placed the lumber schooner into the back end of the bottle, I realized it looked a little lonely so I repeated Needham’s “Exercise One” and made a basic two masted fishing schooner to keep it company. Once I added the fishing schooner, I still had some “dead space” in the neck to fill so I added a small headland background with a few buildings and put a small skipjack sailboat in front of that to give the illusion of all three running into port. I finished the neck with a “Turk’s Head” knot that I built a special jig for so I could get it right this time. It’s still tough to make, even with a jig. So here is my diorama “fleet” heading into port. This is the first time I put multiple ships in a bottle and I’m encouraged enough to use this method again on some of my longer bottles.
  14. 1 point

    My Goja SIB build

    Since I decided to revive my interest in ship in the bottle builds, I revisited my original first kit builds from the “Ships A Sailin’” line from the 1970’s. My first ever build was their “Lively Lady” and my second ever build was another of their kits. I pulled out the instruction sheet that I still have from this series which has no identification for the ship on it. For many years I was under the impression that this build was their “Skeeter” but after finding an old kit for sale I realized that I had actually built their “Goja”. I first started to perfunctorily build this ship accordingly to the dimensions I had on the instruction sheet when I remembered that I was never quite pleased with my first result. I had given this build away as a gift so I no longer had it for reference. I looked at the squat dimensions of the whole ship on the instruction sheet and the cautionary words that the model had been modified to adapt it to the bottle when I wondered if this was actually a historical representation. At the time I had no idea what the “Goja” was, my “Lively Lady” certainly wasn’t a historically accurate ship so I assumed that this was another fanciful creation. After a cursory investigation, I was hooked. The “Goja” is the ship that Norwegian Explorer Roald Amundsen sailed to make the first successful voyage across the North West Passage in 1906. The ship still exists today in a museum in Fram, Norway and previously had spent many years in a park in San Francisco, Ca so it is well documented and photographed. I managed to find a sail and rigging plan and pulled up a few photos to help me get as historically close to the ship as possible. I even watched a video documentary about the Arctic Explorers and the quest to find the North West Passage. After Amundsen completed the passage, he landed in Alaska and had to Nordic ski 500 miles just to send a telegraph to announce his completion. I was so impressed with this story I decided I had to do this model due diligence and effort. I didn’t want to end up with a “bottle with a ship model in it” I wanted a “ship model that happened to be encased in a glass bottle” instead. I found a nice bottle in my collection that complemented the dimensions of the plan although it was a bit challenging to work in. I tried to match the color scheme of the hull, I made a nice suit of sails from cloth instead of paper (I really prefer the cloth sails to paper now), I took some care with trying to make a flat Arctic sea with ice floes and an Arctic tundra backdrop and I sealed the bottle with a Scandinavian coin (OK, it’s Swedish, not Norwegian and it isn’t from 1906 but it looks cool) and made another “decorative braid” knot for the neck. I even tried my hand at a miniature Norwegian flag to fly from its ensign line. Had I had the presence of mind, I would have made a Norwegian flag of the banner but the flag was an afterthought. Most of these details are not visible in the photograph. After it was completed it struck me how the bottle mounted on its side mimics the silhouette of the ship with the neck being its prow. So here it is, my homage to Roald Amundsen, my eighth ever SIB.
  15. 1 point

    Not quite a model

    Hi all, I know these are not models but we have been restoring these "Old Ladies" over the last 3 years , a Labour of love in some ways . I hope you like the photos Niallmhor
  16. 1 point

    Hi from Puebla Mexico

    Hello, my name is Hafid. I am new to this hobby. I do not know much about boats but I love the way they look on bottles, I think it's a very beautiful art. I have some projects stopped because I have several questions about its construction and assembly. Thank you for your support and I am willing to help. My first project "RMS Titanic"
  17. 1 point

    First SIB build in 40 yrs

    I had not built a ship in the bottle model since some time in the early eighties. All my scratch built models were given away as gifts and the only model I had in my possession was the first model I had built, a kit build from the 1970’s. Through a series of circumstances I once again came back to building ship models. I was surprised that my eyes have actually improved for close work with my age and I can take my glasses off to work small. And my hands are still steady enough, hopefully having been practiced from years of fly-tying and art drawing. In a fit of clearing out possessions I found a partially built Model Shipways “Elsie” 1/8” scale Gloucester Fishing Ship model and a box with my old ship in the bottle collection of materials, books and the instruction sheets from my old kits. I sat down and finished the “Elsie” model which probably took me over 150 hrs of work to complete - I even added sails. I learned a lot about modeling and ships by doing this and I also learned the value of having good plans to work from. So now I wanted to reprise my first SIB kit build, “the Lively Lady” that I clumsily cracked the foremast on when mounting the ship in the bottle. I still had the “Ship’s A Sailin’” instruction sheet and the first thing I noticed was that not all the drawings were to scale or even the same scale so I first set up a “canon” to work to. I did a little research and surmised that the “Lively Lady” was not a historical model so without exact plans it’s hard to hold to any degree accuracy or feel too constricted. However, I did apply some of my ship knowledge acquired from building my “Elsie”. I even had some left over kit materials that I could use and I had a large quantity of sail cloth left over from my “Elsie” build but I had to carve the hull from scratch and make all the masts and spars from dowels. I even had a small collection of liquor bottles my dad had saved for me from his bar-tending days and I picked a bottle that is a bit long for the model but I just wanted the practice of doing an SIB again. I remembered from my other builds that I had first made putty seas from some old plumber’s putty colored with some artist grade oil paint but switched over to “Plasticine” which was available in the 1980’s. Now all I could find in the local craft store was a kid’s modeling clay something like “Play –Dough” which is a bit too cool of a blue for a sea but that’s what I could find. The bottled model didn’t photograph as well as I’d like, maybe due to the curvature of the glass playing with the lens elements of my camera. I have to say the model looks more impressive in life. But I did take a “before launch” shot of just the ship. I even attempted a “Turk’s Head” knot on the bottle neck but only accomplished a “decorative braid”. I just had one small mishap which probably only I can detect but I consider that a general hazard of putting a ship in a bottle. Overall, I was encouraged by my attempt and have decided on a course progress to continue building.
  18. 1 point

    Cape Cod SIB Finds

    My personal SIB collection remained at three for a long time: one I found, one that was a gift and one I built from a kit. One day about ten years ago I was on a fishing trip on Cape Cod when I wandered into a gas station cum tackle store to buy some hooks. I don’t remember how I ended up in a back room of the store but in this room was a large collection of ship models in various states of repair. Some of them were in cases, some were in pieces and some had price tags on them. I could tell that this was a collection from a serious builder who apparently was some relationship to the couple who owned the store. I remember picking up a business card but it has long been lost. I think the builder was located in Newport, Mass. but I’ve lost the name. Among this collection was a lone SIB that I recognized in to be inside a real Haig & Haig bottle. Without hesitation I purchased the model for an uncontested ask of $15.00. At the time I thought it was very neatly done but now that I look at it closely I see a lot of machine-made prefabrication: printed sails and a paper appliqué type siding on the hull. It has a neat obliviously machine made “Bluenose” name plate inside. It still has a nice look to it and doesn’t look as cheap as the “overseas” manufactured plastic bottle things. It almost looks like somebody took a kit model ship and put it in an authentic Haig & Haig bottle. I never found that shop again or any online information about the name I had. I think the builder is deceased and some of the models ended up in an art gallery that went defunct and is now a real estate office that has one of the larger models in a window collecting dust. My other Cape Cod find was from an antique shop in Provincetown. I found a lone SIB that was very nicely done and obviously handmade. It’s a Gloucester fishing vessel, almost a dead ringer for the “Elsie” model I have recently finished, housed in a green glass magnum wine bottle which doesn’t detract from its appearance. Considering most of the poor examples and cheap imitation SIB’s I usually find, I didn’t mind paying $40.00 for it. It was obviously made by someone who knew what they were doing. It has neat deck furnishing and non-hinged masts glued in place after insertion. The hull and furnishing look so neat that I almost suspect some pre-fabrication. The sail cloth looks like the sail cloth that came in my 1970’s vintage SIB kits. So, it could be a kit build that was upgraded to a nicer bottle with a green putty sea. That’s about the extent of the models I’ve purchased. I really don’t want to collect other people’s work unless I can find some top-notch build for a bargain. I have a collection of materials and I just needed some incentive to start building my own again and just do it for my own amusement.
  19. 1 point
    The third SIB in my collection was of my own construction. This was from a kit series that was readily available in model shops and department stores in the 1970’s. These were offered by a company called “Ship A’ Sailin’” out of Santa Susana, California – copyright 1971 J.O. Knight. I built two kits from this series: the “Lively Lady”, which I still have and the “Gjoa” which was given away. The third ship in the series was the “Skeeter”, which I never owned but just recently purchased an NOS example of. The $1.98 on the box must be a later tag sale price because I remember these kits to be priced somewhere less than $10 in the mid 1970’s. This series of kits may have been extended into the 1980s as the “Woodkrafter’s” series which have a very similar look but I never owned one of these for comparison. The “Skeeter” that I purchased may have been an earlier edition of the kits I purchased judging from the instruction sheet and the materials included. A nice touch that wasn’t in the later kits I purchased is a nicely engraved metal name plate for the base, mine was just a faux metal paper sticker. I plan to keep this kit intact as a keepsake and maybe build the model from scratch from the plans. I enjoyed reading the little descriptive histories on the back of the box. I am now informed about Roald Amundsen’s Arctic Exploration in the “Gjoa”, the history of Canadian fisheries disputes on ships known as “sharpshooters”. However I believe the “Lively Lady” to be a fictitious 1812 privateer perhaps taken from the novel by the same name. The kit was fairly complete and allowed me to almost 100% successfully build my model. The instruction sheet was very straight forward and provided my initialization into model ship in a bottle building. I still have both instruction sheets which can be used for scratch builds but I found that the dimensions are somewhat compromised. My construction was successful enough that I started receiving request from family members, examples that do not survive. The kit was all inclusive with rudimentary tools and a clear glass bottle with a cork. The bottle could have been an empty “Miller Highlife” beer bottle or perhaps a pop bottle but has no bottle deposit information or any other imprint. The sail cloth was also included but is too coarse for the scale. I took some liberties with the “Lively Lady” design, most of which worked out. My one alteration that caused me trouble in the end was the addition of the putty sea. No putty was included and the instructions called for a sea of glue which was to be colored with ink or food dye. Of course the addition of the thickness of the putty was not accounted for in the design and I ended up cracking the foremast during final set up. As I look back on this model some forty years later I don’t think I did such a bad job. Even the cracked foremast isn’t that noticeable. Sometime later I managed to add a surprisingly neat “Turk’s Head” knot on the bottle neck. The kit was a good introduction to basic SIB building and these kits allowed one to make a model that looked somewhat authentic. I now find that the dimensions of the ships were highly modified to accommodate the small glass bottle so accuracy was sacrificed. Other SIB kits I’ve seen look very cheap or compromised but kits are still a good way to learn. The techniques learned are easily applied to scratch builds from more accurate plans.
  20. 1 point

    Hello Puebla Mexico

    Hello, My name is José medina and I live in Puebla, México. Puebla is about 2130 meters abobe sea level and about 3 hours from Veracruz, the nearest sea port. But even here I discovered the taste for the ships in bottle. Here is my first, the Hannah from Amati. Hope you like it. Greetings from México José
  21. 1 point
    Hi There, I thought it may have been an early SIB by Leon Labistour who with his wife lived in Robin Hood's Bay and produced many quality SIBS. Leon passed some time ago, however I know his wife through the European Association of Ships in Bottles. I've contacted her and this is the information Pat replied with. "Hi Alan. No, it's one from the factory in the next village, Fylingthorpe. They made millions of aspirin bottle models, all farmed out to piece workers. They advertised as RHB because nobody had heard of Fylingthorpe. The factory was called Ship Models and was run by a guy called Milsom.Glad the owner of the model likes it!cheers, Pat." Hope this helps you out. Best Alan
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