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Bottled Ship Builder


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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I'm really happy to see other builders trying this build out. If nothing else its a proof of concept. Really you can use the same method that this build uses and build any ship you want. There's a million other methods out there its all about finding what works. This type works for me. As far as the rest of the sails its the same method. Cut them out, draw on the panels and give them a little wind curve. Making sure to follow the same tack. I like to give the jibs some fun looking panels. I'm not sure if its historically accurate but i like the look. Glue the jibs right to the stays. I give a bit of room between the jib and the thread block. The last thing you want is to find you can't pull the line tight because the jib has stopped the line at the block. I didn't put any reefing lines on the square sails. These sails would have been hoisted up in low winds so reefing them would mean just taking them down. Which as mentioned before if you want to simplify this build further leave off the square sails all together. It still looks great with out them. I ended up moving the middle spar a little higher to fit the sails. As far as the square sails go I hive them a curl and glue what would be the top front of the sail to the bottom of the spar. This allows the curl to go out and look like it has some wind. The last lines I glued on were the jib sheets. Theres a trick to these so you don't have to have three more lines coming out of the bottle. First get your jibs set up so they are catching the wind. To do this twist the stay lines and let then losses and tighten them. You'll notice as you do this the jib rotates around the line. This can be done while its in the bottle as well. Get the jibs where you want them then glue a line at the open corner of each jib. Bring the three lines together and glue them all together. Cut off the excess With enough left to tuck behind the bulwark. You can glue them to the bulwark once its in the bottle. Since the jibs naturally pull the line outward it goes right into place once its tucked on the opposite side of the bulwark.
  2. 4 points
    DSiemens, this is a great choice for learning, thoroughly enjoying this build. It really is a beautiful vessel, partly because of it's simplicity.
  3. 1 point
    This is a heads up for those that sell their work over the Internet on a personal or your business website. Scammers are targeting artists and craftspeople I typically accept payment card info over the phone though sometimes take a check by mail. This past week I had a situation that just did not feel right and emails from the customer had inconsistencies. I had the sense to go to my bank and see if their check was valid. It was indeed a stolen check from a lawyers firm in Springfield, MA. The person claimed she was moving from Georgia to Canada and would include additional funds for the shippers. The additional amount was $3000. They communicated that they desired $2k to go into a Zelle Payment account. Have not communicated with these scammers since I filed the FBI report. Tis a shame that this occurs.
  4. 1 point
    Thanks, it is however 3 times larger so I have a lot more room, and your CPA is your priority right now. Really great thread though. As a newbie, it opens your eyes a bit to how things "should" be done. Hopefully I can get it in the bottle O.K.
  5. 1 point
    Good catch Spanky. Yes I use a thicker black thread for standing rigging and then a thinner 8/0 fly tieing thread for running rigging. This is because the standing rigging was used for support and they would have used a thicker rope. Since it didn't move the standing rigging was covered in tar to preserve it. The running rigging had to move through blocks in order to adjust sails. It also had be thin enough to hold onto an pull. So I use a thinner brown thread to simulate the running rigging.
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