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Bottled Ship Builder


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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Garry M

    Newly hooked

    Thank you all for encouraging words. Jeff B, I am planning to bottle my next models. These two are to be demonstation models only.
  2. 1 point
    Oh yeah I was going to explain those. I've experiment with various ways of doing dead eyes and I thought I'd add one method into this beginners build. This is purely optional and their are other more advanced methods that work well but if your just starting out this method works pretty well. What I did was get some paint on the end of a toothpick and just tap the back stay where the dead eyes go. Let the paint dry and do this over and over until the paint builds up into a little dot and looks like a very tiny dead eye. It will take five or sick coats so be patient with it, of coarse thats the name of the game with this hobby.
  3. 1 point
    loking at D's and ex's i think I can come up with something.
  4. 1 point
    Thank you for sharing!
  5. 1 point
    Hi All, I've attached an article I produced for Bottleship a few years ago on a Jig for making ratlines and railings. It may help out. It helped me. Alan Rigging Widget v3.pdf
  6. 1 point
    An example of the frame method.
  7. 1 point
    When it comes to trimming lines there is a special tool I use that makes for a really close cut. Follicle clippers from the grocery store. They run around $8. Note how straight the edge is and that it cuts off to the side. I can place that edge right on the shroud and cut the ratline super close with out cutting the shroud line. To show this look at how close the ratlines are cut at the edges of the shrouds. Something to note with these clippers. Treat the like your mothers sewing scissors. Once you use them for anything but thread the edges get bent and they will not cut thread cleanly. I have an old pair I use for wire and a new pair I use for thread. When I buy a new pair I mark my thread ones as my wire ones and throw out the oldest pair. I use these for cutting all of my lines specifically because I can control exactly where I make my cuts.
  8. 1 point
    Thanks Jeff. I'm very happy to see a few of you following a long. Let me know if you need better explanations of any part. Onward With standing rigging. Create two more thread blocks to tie to the bow. Per the plans they should be right before the back of where the back of the jib boom attaches to the bowsprit and the very tip of the jib boom. On the last forestay I left a loop because the line goes around the cross tree. For the next to I tie them directly to the top mast so there is no loop. Tie long threads onto the top mast and run them through the thread blocks. These lines need to be long enough to run out of the bottle. I'm not sure I talked about the rat lines. My method for this is simple. Pull the lines so the shrouds are nice and tight. Cut a small piece of thread. For this I used 8/0 fly tying thread. Its slightly smaller than the thread for the standing rigging. Holding the 8/0 thread on either side and get some glue on the middle of the thread. Use a dowel or the glue bottle to spread this a little and wipe off the excess being careful to avoid the edges where your fingers are. Then place the line one the shrouds and hold until dry. Once all the lines are on cut off the excess. For this method a fast drying glue is required. There's good and bad to that. Super glue dries hard and can break. I try to use as little as is necessary to get the job done. That's a fine are to learn. There is another method if you want to avoid using super glue. Make a frame out of thin wood. Matches or toothpicks work well. Glue the ratlines onto the frame so that they are evenly spaced a part. Place the frame over the shrouds and glue the ratlines to the shrouds. Since the frame is holding the lines in place you can leave the lines to dry. Then cut the lines outside the shrouds to remove the frame and trim the excess.
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