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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Thanks Jeff. I'm very happy to see a few of you following a long. Let me know if you need better explanations of any part. Onward With standing rigging. Create two more thread blocks to tie to the bow. Per the plans they should be right before the back of where the back of the jib boom attaches to the bowsprit and the very tip of the jib boom. On the last forestay I left a loop because the line goes around the cross tree. For the next to I tie them directly to the top mast so there is no loop. Tie long threads onto the top mast and run them through the thread blocks. These lines need to be long enough to run out of the bottle. I'm not sure I talked about the rat lines. My method for this is simple. Pull the lines so the shrouds are nice and tight. Cut a small piece of thread. For this I used 8/0 fly tying thread. Its slightly smaller than the thread for the standing rigging. Holding the 8/0 thread on either side and get some glue on the middle of the thread. Use a dowel or the glue bottle to spread this a little and wipe off the excess being careful to avoid the edges where your fingers are. Then place the line one the shrouds and hold until dry. Once all the lines are on cut off the excess. For this method a fast drying glue is required. There's good and bad to that. Super glue dries hard and can break. I try to use as little as is necessary to get the job done. That's a fine are to learn. There is another method if you want to avoid using super glue. Make a frame out of thin wood. Matches or toothpicks work well. Glue the ratlines onto the frame so that they are evenly spaced a part. Place the frame over the shrouds and glue the ratlines to the shrouds. Since the frame is holding the lines in place you can leave the lines to dry. Then cut the lines outside the shrouds to remove the frame and trim the excess.
  2. 7 points
    James w rogers

    Happy Christmas!

    I'd just like to say a very Happy Christmas to all my fellow shipwrights on here, and say thanks for all the help and advice and kind words from you all over the last year. And happy building for the new year!
  3. 4 points

    Lego Ship in Bottle

    I got an interesting Christmas gift I thought I'd share. This little project popped up in the Facebook group a year or so ago. The original creator was looking for signatures on the Lego Ideas page to promote Lego making a ship in bottle set. With the help of our Facebook group and a lot of other fans the project got it's 10,000 signatures and now Lego sells a ship in bottle set. This a great tribute to Jake Sadovich who created the original and gathered the signatures but, its a great tribute to ship in bottle building itself. There's at least 10,000 people out there that appreciate our craft enough to sign a Lego project into existence. I think that's incredible. My wife bought me the set and I built it in just a couple hours. It's a fun build and the instructions ate very straight forward. Here's the box and what comes in it. There's the booklet and four packages of Legos. I won't go into all the detail of building. The booklet is a great set of instructions. How ever I have a few photos of the process. Here's the ship. It is simple but looks good. I like the dragons on the sails. There's a few parts on Jake Sadovichs original build I would have liked to have seen. For instance a spanker or lateen sale on the mizzen mast. There's space for it but no parts. The masts could be taller to be proportional and the were on Jakes original build but it's not that big of a deal. I do think the ship looks good and was an easy build. Have to admit building the bottle itself was intense. There's a lot of little clear pieces. I felt like I was piecing a shattered bottle back together. It takes time but looks really good when its done. I find the stand very impressive. I love the compass and the globes. I've always made stands that don't detract from the build which keeps them simple. This stand doesn't detract but the added elements add to the build. The whole thing looks classy. Even as a Lego build where the magic of putting the ship in the bottle is obvious it still has a wow factor. The other part that makes me think is the sea itself. The pieces are just poured in and sit loosely on the bottom. It's actually a clever idea and I can see trying something similar with beads or other small material. So there it is the Lego Ship in Bottle. A fun fast build with some class.
  4. 3 points
    Bernard Kelly

    Bottled Ship Wright Journal

    Great job Jeff. I have really enjoyed reading this first edition of the Bottleshipwright newsletter. I am looking forward to the next one already. I am sure I speak on behalf of many members of this forum when I say....Thank you for your efforts and the time you have put into this. I am sure the following editions will be just as absorbing. Again many thanks. Bernard
  5. 3 points
    First one more set of back stays. Following the plans I drilled a hole in the bulwark. I then tied a line to the top mast about mid way down. I gave it a little glue so it doesn't move then ran the lines through the holes on the bulwarks. I then tied my temporary forestay on and set the rake angle. These back most back stays are the most important in setting the rake so the must be perfect. Once the rake is set I secured my temporary forests on the bowsprit with a tiny amount of glue. Enough its easy to pull off but also enough to hold the rake while I adjust my back stays. From there I pulled one backstay tight and tested the rake and strength of the forestay. Once all was secure I pulled the line out just a little, then put a little glue on the end going into the hole and pulled it back tight. Once the glue set I did the same on the other side. The glue holds the line in place while I tie a knot around the bulwarks. Once the know is secured I glue them down and cut off the ends. Once done in can take off the temporary line and prep the bowsprit for the fore stays.
  6. 2 points

    Bottled Ship Wright Journal

    Ladies and Gentlemen, attached is our first edition! Enjoy...Jeff The Bottled Shipwright.pdf
  7. 2 points
    Ahoy maties! Our first journal is out. Please hit the clubs tab to find it. If you haven't signed up please join our club. The journal is free of charge and all that I ask is that you sign up so I can track our readership! Please enjoy our first journal. Jeff
  8. 2 points
    Jeff B

    Jeff bs build #3.

  9. 2 points
    For the rest of the bowsprit whittle out a really thin piece of bamboo cut it to size from the plans and then taper the end. With a pencil mark where the end of where the two bowsprit pieces overlap. Then glue them together. I got some 8/0 fly tying thread and tied a knot around one end of where the bowsprit pieces connect. Then I wrapped that thread around glued it down tied it off glued the knot and cut off the ends. It will look like this. Then I did the same on the other end. Now its ready for the bobstay. The bobstay strengthens the bowsprit even at this scale. I've had ships where I put on the forestay before the bobstay and the whole bowsprit bent upwards and almost broke. The bobstay keeps the bowsprit straight when the forestays are pulling on it. First drill a hole in the keel. The plans shows where this stay will connect. Then tie a knot on the bowsprit and run the line through the keel. Glue the knot down and put a dab of glue on the line your about to pull through the keel then pull it through. Once that sets tie it off glue the knots and cut off the excess. Now its time for some forestays. First tie a thread block. See the video above. The hole of the block should be wide enough for your thread. I used wire instead of a needle for this one. Tie the thread block to the bowsprit. So that I don't run into forestays as I complete them, I'm starting with the inner most one. Tie the thread block on with the block facing upwards. Tie it and glue it as usual. Now for a little more added realism I tied a slip knot around the mast just above the lower cheek. I tightened the knot until it looked right leaving it slightly loose. I glued the knot down and put a dab of glue where the line connects with the back of the mast. Cut off the excess and then thread the other end of the line through the thread block. Note this line should be long as it runs out of the bottle.
  10. 2 points
    James w rogers

    La nina, caravel.

    Lateen sails made, to say it was a bit fiddly would be an understatement. I ended up putting two flats on the yards to enable me to glue them together and stop them rolling apart, then put some cotton binding round with a little dab of superglue, then tacked the sails in place with glue and sewed them on.
  11. 2 points
    Time to get into the rigging. First thing I start with is the back stays. There's a lot of different methods for this. Use what ever method works best for you. This method has worked for me. Typically I create a channel specifically for the backstays and glue it onto the channel where the stays connect to the ship. Since I mismeasured a tad my ship is a little to wide for that. So I drilled my holes through the existing channels. When drilling these holes be careful not to make them to wide or to close together. They need to be wide enough for the thread but not much more. I'll explain why at the end. The backstays will be created using a single piece of thread. Pass the thread through through the channel and up through the gap in the two masts. Then done to the holes in the channel on the other side. The thread will pass down one hole and up the next. Then it will run up to the gap in the mast and down to the first channel. In this way the thread weaves back and for between the two channels and through the mast. Once you go through the last hole tie a stopping not, put a dab of glue on it and pull it into the channel. This is where the size of the holes and length between them matters. You can easily pull the thread out between the two holes if they are to close or the wood isn't strong enough. This is partially why I like having a separate glued on channel. If it breaks it can be cut off and remade. Its not so easy with the longer channel. It also looks more accurate. I tied two to make it thick enough and you can see I missed once. No worries that piece will be cut off. Once the stopper not is in place, pull on the other end of the string to tighten up the lines. Keep in mind that with the folding method the tension on the backstays will set the rake or angle of the mast. Tighten up the lines to get the right mast angle. Then on the loose end I put a little glue on the thread and pull it through the channel. This helps keep the tension right as I tie it off. Once the glue sets I tie a knot around the channel, glue it down and cut off the excess. This is the result. My thread is more frayed than I like but hopefully a little more wax will cure that. The forests thread is temporary for now. One more set of backstays will go up to the top mast but after that we move on to the fore stays.
  12. 2 points
    James w rogers

    La nina, caravel.

    Decided to paint it with acrylic so it wouldn't be too glossy and mask the grain of the wood too much. Had used gloss enamel on it previously but it didn't look right so stripped it off. Now I need to rig it!
  13. 2 points
    Time to put some cannons in. Going back to the concept of putting together shapes a cannon consists of a cylinder sitting on a rectangle. For the cylinder I opened up an old cell phone charger cable and pulled out the black wire. For the rectangle I found a nice dark veneer and cut strips. I still had to thin it a bit to fit the cannons in the gun ports. Good to be aware of sizing on this part. Here it is with all the carriages glued in. If you can get a hold of or build this tool I highly recomend it. It really helps keep my length cuts consistent. Here it is with cannons. One of the last parts the hull needs is the channelsnfor the rigging. This is the piece chain plates and deadeys attach to on real ships. For this I cut a piece of veneer, drilled four holes and glued it to the side of the hull where the backstays will attach. This piece will be used for those back stays. Starting to get into masts and rigging. More to come.
  14. 1 point
    Jeff B

    Jeff bs build #3.

    I took down and redid the back stays. They weren't right. I moved them halfway up the topmast. Much more authentic.
  15. 1 point
    Really excellent work on the journal. It felt like reading the old magazine. You had some really great quality content. I'm looking forward to the next one. I'll have to see if I can't get an article together to contribute.
  16. 1 point
    Bernard Kelly

    James Miller 3 masted schooner

    As someone who has always struggled with sails they really impress me. A great idea and well worth the time and effort. Brilliant as ever John. Bernard
  17. 1 point
    James w rogers

    La nina, caravel.

    Time to make the deck fixtures and fittings. Turned a cocktail stick in my rotary tool to make the cargo barrels and deck hatch out of some thin cardboard.
  18. 1 point
    Hi James! I used the resin in only for my first projects during 2015-2016. But since 2016 I have been using two component silicone.
  19. 1 point
    To make sure I have the right spacing for the bowsprit and the windlass I'm putting the bowsprit in next. I cut a notch in the front bulwarks to get the angle of the bowsprit according to the plans. I glue the bowsprit in the notch and to the deck. I'm not worried about the bowsprit being pulled up by the rigging because of the bobstay. The bobstay runs from the bowsprit to the stem. As the bowsprit is pulled up the bobstay pulls it back and creates a fulcrum. As the end of the bowsprit is pulled up the end attached to the hull will be pushed down. In order to attach a bobstay to a stem I gotta have a stem. Starting out I round out a piece of wood to match the hull. I cut the top to match the angle of the bowsprit then round out what will be the front of the stem. Little more sanding to shape it and the stem is good to go. I'm not doing the bobstay just yet but its something to keep in mind.
  20. 1 point
    I've said this before, and can't say it enough - Igor, you are a true master! Thank you for sharing this with us!
  21. 1 point
    Then I increased the keel in the stern part of the hull
  22. 1 point
    Thank you, IOAN! I'm afraid that I don't quite understand your question ...
  23. 1 point
    Next, I glued the posts to the inside surface of the bulwarks. Because The bulwarks themselves gradually reduce their thickness in the process of sanding them from the outside, then their additional strengthening will be very useful. In addition, they will be very useful and to increase the area of gluing when installing gunwales.
  24. 1 point
    Next, I pasted the stem and continued to planking the stern
  25. 1 point
    The deck of the boat has a rather noticeable bend. In addition, the nose is markedly elevated with respect to the stern.