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  1. 9 points
    tazam0827

    Asgard

    The thread with the painted stripes is meant to represent the gap between the deck and the gunwal that I suppose allows for drainage in heavy seas. See this picture of the actual yacht. Here's my model, almost ready for the bottle.
  2. 8 points
    Bill Lindahl

    Large bottle with ship

    Built this ship in a bottle when I was in the AF in 1965. Now I am replacing some of the rigging that broke and also some of the parts that I broke trying the replace rigging.
  3. 7 points
    tazam0827

    Asgard

    I decided to make a little diorama and have the Asgard sailing around the Baily Light on Howth head on its way into the harbor. I decided I didn't really like the red wire I used to make the gantry and railing, but it was already in the bottle by the time I decided. Oh well...
  4. 7 points
    Many thanks, Bruce! One more photo -
  5. 6 points
    MickyK

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Hi All, Thank you for your wishes, everything went well, I now have better eyesight than most people 30 years younger than me! She is almost ready to go into a bottle. Some cleaning up of details etc. I have been playing with the sea, (in a coffee jar), and it seems to be working OK, the clay takes a few days to set properly, but it easy to paint. The clay does not stick to the glass, so when it is properly dry, I have to roll the bottle and put epoxy in and then move the clay sea back into position. A bit of a pain, but what the hell! With my new eyes, I can now see all the bits that aren't good! However, I won't pull it all apart and start again, that will have to wait for the next project. Enjoy your-selves! Mick
  6. 5 points
    exwafoo

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Hi Mick, Jeff, Mick, seems we had the same thoughts on the quality of the base and thanks for the info on the holder. Much appreciated. Jeff, as a picture is worth a 1000 words and is definitely better than my ‘sketch’ here are some phots show how I do things. Not the only way by any means, but may give you ideas. I’ve used a hull of a clipper that I am building to demonstrate, ignore the peg sticking out of the bottom, that's temporary for holding in a vice. The photos below show the brass staple in the stirrer stick. I drilled pilot holes in both the stick and the hull to ease the fit – there is still enough friction to hold. The photos below show the stick pinned to the hull. The recesses are for access to the rigging when the masts are fitted. I would cut away some of the stick to gain access to the forward one. I’ve also glued a length of thread to the stick and then tied it around the hull to help support it. Its easily cut away when required. The photo below shows the stick being removed by gently pushing a styrene rod shaped to a chisel point under the bow after the thread has been cut. I’m thinking about putting a dogleg in the styrene rod to make it a bit easier for access. The phot below show some of the tools I use. Top to bottom- Swab stick holder – a wooden skewer with some brass tube at each end (different angles) formed to hold a cotton swab. I use these with acetone to clean the inside of the bottle. Acetone removes plasticene (for the sea) and glue (both CA and PVA) that may have found its way onto the glass. I don’t think you are the only sibber to catch things when gluing up in the bottle. Brass wire – on a length of glass fibre. Used to push, pull, poke, lift etc. I’ve also used it to place small amounts of glue where required because the brass bends easily. Small brush – a small brush head glued to a length of brass mounted in a wooden skewer. I use this for touch up paints and glue (dilute PVA). The brass can be bent as required. Two glue applicators – the top one used for in the bottle. Its a sewing needle, bent as shown, mounted in a wooden skewer and with the head ground down to a ‘U’ shape to hold the glue. The one below is similar but straight and only about 6” long that I use outside the bottle. I’ve found that to reduce glue going astray in the bottle I have a ‘dry’ practice run to check that the applicator will reach where I want. I hold it horizontally with the ‘point’ towards me, and place the bend in the needle on the inside of the neck furthest from me as I (slowly) insert it. This helps keep it steady and the gluey point away from the sides. I’ve also tried using slips of paper to protect the control threads. If I do catch the side then a quick wipe with acetone gets rid of it before it dries – its quicker when its wet. Hope it helps Best for now Alan
  7. 4 points
    DSiemens

    Hannah Amati - DSiemens

    A friend of mine have me this kit and told me make it however I like just bring it back when it's done. So I'm going to kit bash this a bit. At first glance its simple enough. The box is way bigger than the parts inside. I suspect the bigger box is to protect the bottle. So far so good. The laser precuts makes cutting out the pieces super easy. I sugest using the keel as a guide when gluing the hull together. The instructions don't say that so I had mine mostly glued before I realised it was a tiny bit off. Sanding should fix it but the keel guide would be helpful. I do like how it's coming together in general. I'm curious about the brass fittings. I've heard others had trouble with them but we'll see.
  8. 4 points
    Onni

    HMS Terror

    Some new underwater footage of HMS Terror
  9. 4 points
    While I'm not new to building ships in bottles I stopped 32 years ago with the birth of my first son. It was difficult in a small home to raise a family and participate in the hobby. From 1977 - 1987 I built about 15 models of various ships but fell in love with the Baltimore Clipper and built several examples which included crew members on the deck. During that time I was a member of SIBAA and still have many of the paper newsletter volumes I received as a member along with cards from some of those early members. The highlight of that time was sending two ships to the 2nd Japanese International Ships In Bottles Exhibition. Recently some friends who knew I once built ships in bottles asked if I would consider building a few more as they were interested in having one. So I'm coming out of the retirement to build at least three maybe 4 more. Wish me luck as I now have the time to try this again even if my hands are not as steady as they once were. I moved on to furniture and box making after those days and have a shop where I can set up my projects which wasn't the case the 1970s and 80s.
  10. 4 points
    Bill Lindahl

    Large bottle with ship

    Took me 3 months to build. Built it outside the bottle first then had to cut it up to fit through the neck. Deck is 12 pieces and the hull is 8 pieces. Then painted and put back together using magnets and other ideas. Took it apart again and inserted into bottle and rebuilt. The hardest part was rigging in the bottle.
  11. 3 points
    exwafoo

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Jeff, I've started this kit (raffle prize) but its on the back burner at present, so I've yet to try using the tool. It looks as if it may be useful, as long as it doesn't slip. What intrigued me more than anything was that some bits of the kit are what I would class as cheaply done, e.g; the stand supplied for the ship shown in the photo above is MDF and could easily, and far more pleasing, to have been hardwood. I have replaced it with oak. However, the tool supplied is made from a very nice piece of hardwood and brass rod and is disposable assuming the kit is a once only build. I've had the same problems holding the SIB once in the bottle. When I did the Colvic Watson, (see build logs) I stole and amended a method that John Fox III showed a few weeks ago. No photos unfortunately, but an electronic sketch is shown, I used 3 wooden coffee stirrers, slotted and CA glued as shown to follow the curve of the bottle. The SIB had two small pegs as shown (black) which passed through holes in the stirrer. These turned out to be a bit loose so I secured the hull by using a staple made from 0.5 mm brass rod, the points being sharp and just long enough to grip. Realistically, there is not a lot of weight to worry about. I had to re-enforce the stirrer joints with more glue a couple of times when it let go - I still think these are impregnated with something that affects the 'stick'. The supporting stick was cut away where necessary to accommodate the control strings. Anyway, it actually worked well during launch, allowing masts etc to be positioned, glued and so on. When all was done, I released the SIB by gently levering out the staple with a length of plastic rod formed into a chisel point, then glued the SIB into the sea recess. Lots of room for improvement, but I'm certainly going to use this method again. Best for now Alan
  12. 3 points
    Jeff B

    Large bottle with ship

    Magnets!! What a great idea! Oh the possibilities. Lightbulb just turned on!
  13. 3 points
    Jeff B

    Different Perspective

    Almost need a poll here: what would the sails look like in 40 yrs? Because it's organic material, would the skin shrink and shrivel up, deteriorating? My Lexington 1776 is ready for sails. The onion I imagine is very flexible and forgiving, going into the bottle. Notice how the skin has lines on it? What a plus! I'm intrigued.
  14. 3 points
    Chasseur

    Large bottle with ship

    Wow Bill that is a beast of a ship and a bottle to boot!
  15. 3 points
    DSiemens

    Asgard

    Those are the scuppers. You are correct they allow water to drain off the deck. I think the thread represents them really well.
  16. 3 points
    MickyK

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Hi all, More progress. The masts are up, the sails on, since the photo, I've put the Ratlines on..... As I said earlier, I glued some 1/2 round styrene strips to the masts, gaffs, boom and bowsprit, and painted them brown. I think they look a bit more realistic than square brass etchings. The sails supplied with the kit I wasn't happy with, so I remade them out of very light-weight sail material. They are still a bit "chunky", however the entire boat is not perfectly to scale. I think they look OK! At least better than the originals. I also tied them to the masts and gaffs, looks a bit like mast hoops. The eagle eyed among you may see extra fore stays, they are temporary, just so that I can tension the rig while i tie the rat-lines. And the anchor mount broke again! At the moment I've put a drop of areldite epoxy onto it, and now I have to wait 24 hours to see if it holds. And yes, the masts fold down enough to go into the bottle!! The kit supplies a stand to go into the bottle, however as the ship is displayed with sails hoisted, it should also be displayed sailing. (with a crew on board) That is just my opinion, I would expect there to have been lots of discussion in the past regarding how miniature ships should be displayed, Sails up, sails down, on a stand, in the ocean, personally, I think it is up to the builder, after all, it's his model. There won't be a lot of progress for the next 6 to 8 weeks, as I am going in to get my eyeballs up-dated to v.2.0 , to get rid of my cataracts. Enjoy your builds. Cheers Mick
  17. 2 points
    DSiemens

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    The other thing you could do is trim the mast hieght a milimeters or so. Between that and cutting back the hull I think you van make this work.
  18. 2 points
    A museum in Hartford, CT contacted me about doing a sib demonstration. Since I am in the Carolinas, it is not feasible. So I am sending an inquiry to any bottle shipwrights in the New England area to see if there would be interested in doing a demonstration. Though the museum's budget is limited, they do have funds for local travel and demonstration fee. Time/date for the demo is fexible. If you are interested, please personal message me and I will forward your contact info to the museum's coordinator.
  19. 2 points
    IgorSky

    Different Perspective

    Yeah, Jeff, I'm interested in that question, too. Organic material is not very durable.
  20. 2 points
    Onni

    Different Perspective

    How would anyone come up with an idea to use garlic skins for sail's. Think I have to look at the vegetable rack next time I go shopping.🤣
  21. 2 points
    IgorSky

    Different Perspective

    In that video, Volodymyr just talks about his collection One more video by Volodimer (It shows here how to make sails out of garlic skins) -
  22. 2 points
    IgorSky

    Large bottle with ship

    Well done, Bill! Amazing work!
  23. 1 point
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    I came back
  24. 1 point
    Bill Lindahl

    Large bottle with ship

    Did not have to make the crew. They all volunteered
  25. 1 point
    MickyK

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Hi Folks, I'm new to this forum, and also new to putting ships into bottles. I bought the Amati kit of the Hannah, and I'm battling on with it. So far, I have built the hull, it is "bread and butter" construction, all quite straight forward. sanded the hull, painted and glued on the photo-etched bulwark. I am thinking of painting the hull with West System epoxy, so as to fill the end-grain of the ply, and using West "fairing filler" to give the hull a nice smooth finish. I have had good results with full size model boats, using this method. There is an excellent set of videos by Gary Renshaw on the web, showing how to build the model, which I am using as an instruction manual! Hopefully, all the more experienced modelers out there might find it of some interest, and hopefully point me in the right direction when I get lost! I'll come back when there is a bit more progress. Cheers Mick
  26. 1 point
    exwafoo

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Glad this has been pointed out before I progressed any further. I'm a bit surprised because Amati make a lot of ship kits and I would have thought that they would have made sure that things would go to plan before marketing it. Something like this can not do a their reputation any good at all. Alan PS Think I'll select another bottle - the one in the kit is not exactly the best.
  27. 1 point
    Jeff B

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Thank you Alan for the photos and explanation. I had misunderstood the use of the staple. Now I get it. I constructed the stir stick launcher. Jeff
  28. 1 point
    MickyK

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Hi, The original stand is MDF. I remade it in mahogany, then decided to place the ship in the sea. The tool supplied seems to hold the ship reasonably well. there is almost no weight in the ship, and the brass wire is quite soft and flexible, so it should be reasonably easy to poke the ship through the neck, and then drop it into the bottomless hole in the ocean. Plan A is to put some slow setting epoxy in the hole, and let the ship bed into it. Sounds easy!!!!! Mick
  29. 1 point
    Great work Igor. Old Man and The Sea was one of my favorite stories in high school.
  30. 1 point
    RAThomas

    After 32 Years Starting New Projects

    Thanks, I look forward to catching up.
  31. 1 point
    Onni

    Different Perspective

    I think your right Jeff. Looks more like an onion.
  32. 1 point
    Jeff B

    Different Perspective

    Looks an onion, no?
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    James w rogers

    The princess royal 1841

    Sorry, but I have only just started up again after quite a long break and only just noticed your request. I can scan the book for you if you still need it?
  35. 1 point
    Chasseur

    Different Perspective

    Yes Igor it would be awesome if you could translate for us. I agree with Daniel the ships in the upright bottles are simply amazing! Daniel thank-you for sharing this video what a great find* This videos gives all of us a new realm to dive into regarding bottling ships. Jeff
  36. 1 point
    Great job Igor! Glad to see you are like myself, smaller is better! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  37. 1 point
    Nice work Igor. Very impressive. Bernard
  38. 1 point
    Bernard Kelly

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Nice work Micky K. Sorry about your eyes. I hope the procedure goes well, i have the same problem and have not made a model for a while. I am hoping to get mine done sometime later this year.
  39. 1 point
    Onni

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    Looking good. Hope everything goes well with your eyes.
  40. 1 point
    bluenoser: I live in Michigan USA, and my local party store has this," Pinch", brand named, Scotch Whisky. But recently I showed a picture of my build to an acquaintance who recognized the bottle although called it by a different name. Apparently there is another whisky maker who uses this same triangle shaped bottle, but I've never seen that here where I live. A point I should mention about working inside this shaped bottle is that the wiggle room to heal your ship is very little if you place it dead center. I wound up tilting my ship too far when I glued it down which was before the masts were completely erected. That was problematic in that my top sails got flattened out pressing against the glass. So When I use this bottle again I will be sure to glue my hull down off center so I have plenty of room to heal my vessel and set it on a reaching tack. Regards, Bruce
  41. 1 point
    Igor: It just amazes me the level of detail you can achieve at this scale. Bravo. Your an inspiration for sure. Regards, Bruce
  42. 1 point
    MickyK

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    I'm back, Hi all. Finally got her painted, and all the deck furniture in place. There are a few issues, some I think are built into the kit, some are mine! If anyone builds this kit, when you cut the slot for the photo-etched brass keel, take great care to make it very neat, and close fitting, especially around the bow area. I had to put in tiny amounts of wood filler to make it fair. If there was no filler, the laminates of the bread and butter hull would indicate planking, which could be varnished, or stained. I think the model would then look a bit more realistic, The cateyes, which are a part of the photo-etched bulwarks, have a tendency to snap off as you bend them to shape. And I think that the tabs that fold up to become part of the hinge for the masts may have the same issue. I'm thinking seriously of gluing a little block of wood to them, to give them a bit more strength. I really don't want them breaking as I'm trying to erect the masts inside the bottle! And the supplied transom doesn't fit properly. So I'll start on the masts etc, which I have been playing with. I intend to make a few minor changes, nothing major, just so that the details look a bit more nautical. Cheers Mick
  43. 1 point
    MickyK

    Hannah, an Amati kit

    A bit more progress, Alan, I agree, the photo etched masts look a bit odd. I'v never seen a sailing boat with flat spars. I glued some half round styrene strip to the masts, boom, gaffs and bowsprit, and painted them brown. They seem to turn out OK. Cheers Mick ps, the camera shoes up a multitude of sins!!!
  44. 1 point
    Bruce Foxworthy

    I Made 12 Inch Tweezers

    Putting together my first SIB in nearly 40 years, all of a sudden I needed a pair of long tweezers that I didn't have. I looked them up in Micro Marts online catalog and saw that they were $13 plus shipping, plus time. Well that wouldn't due. So undaunted, I thought to myself a trip to Home Depot, and I'll be back in business in no time. These tweezers are 12 inches long, 3/8 inches wide, and 1/16 thick and tapered to a 1/8 inch square tip. They are easy to make, cheap and work great. Because aluminum is soft I can bend an angle or radius at the tip in the future if need be. I picked up a 3 foot long piece of aluminum angle iron and cut 24 inches off of the 1/2 inch side on my band saw, (a hack saw will work too). I cut that length in half, clamped the two pieces together with the sawed sides up in my vice and started filing till I got them roughly 3/8 wide the full 12 inches. Then I started filing a tapered angle, (starting 5 inches back from the end), one side at a time to bring the pieces to a 1/8 inch wide square pointed end. I buffed out the scratches from the filing with Scotch Brite pad. Next I cut a piece of 3/16 x 3/8 wood stock I just happen to have for making deck furniture 2 1/2 inches long and five minute epoxied that between the two pieces at the ends. I scribed X's on the surface of the aluminum where it was to be glued so that it would take a better bond. At this point I tried using them just like this but found that it was to difficult, for me anyway, to keep constant pressure on them while I was busy navigating inside the bottle, dropping stuff all the time and such. So I devised a way to keep them constantly closed with an adjustable sliding opener. I put a screw and nut on between the halves of the blades. I cut the screw off just long enough so it could easily slide back and forth. Then I peened the end of it over to insure that the nut wouldn't come off. Because my nut was so much larger than the head of the screw I wound up filing the points of the nut down till the nut wasn't sticking out so much. I put a piece of electrical tape over the surface of the tweezers blade so the file wouldn't scratch it's face in the process. Finally I slid the screw all the way next to the wood and using a pair of needle nose pliers firmly gripped the blade next to the screw and parallel to it. Then pushing down on the butt end of the tweezers with one hand and twisting the pliers over to the right and down with the other hand I introduced an angle bend on each side of the blades. This keeps the blades permanently closed with some considerable pressure at the tip. To open the tip, just slide the screw towards the tip. To close down on your part just back the screw away from the tip. Easy. So there you go. I hope this helps someone else out. I'm sure this concept will work fine for any length of tweezers you may need to make for your bottles. I've only been a member of this forum for about six week now and I'm still reading all over it. I know you guys have put a lot of your knowledge and experience forward which has helped me tremendously with my current build. I'm doing things I never had a clue about before thanks to your generous input. I'm happy to contribute to the forum and will continue to do so in the future. Regards and sail on. Bruce Foxworthy
  45. 1 point
    Hello! A few days ago I finished this project.
  46. 1 point
    So, after a long break, I continue to work on this project. I found that I had lost the old knife of the Old Man, so I made a new knife for him.
  47. 1 point
    I have never seen such a small working block! How in the world do you do such micro work? Wow! Jesse
  48. 1 point
    Wow, how on earth do you make such small things?!?! Jesse
  49. 1 point
    Finally, the building of the model has been completed
  50. 1 point
    Then I installed these wooden handrails
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