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  1. 6 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    I am starting construction of the Norwegian ship Constitutinen. Artur
  2. 6 points
    Shipbuilder

    Small steel barquentine

    Thanks, finally fitted in the sea - Bob
  3. 4 points
    Onni

    Hello from Southern Finland

    Hi,I started building SIB around about 1985 but stopped about 1992 as family and children took up all my time! Restarted again in 2010 when I joined a local modelling club near where I live. It was like starting from scratch and I am still learning all the time. "Sailing in Glass" was my main reference when I started and I have made all the examples in the book.Photo is from 2013 when I had an exhibition in the local Library of my work. Onni.
  4. 4 points
    exwafoo

    Black Pearl

    Hi All, Time for a bit of an update. More or less finished, as far as I want to go anyway. I need to make some guns, anchor, and the figurehead. I've started the rigging, hence it still looking like a limp washing line, might have a rethink on a couple of bits of this - I'll see how it goes. One thing I have found is that working with all black makes for hard work seeing the rigging against the ship and sails. It really does need a bright light. Also hard to get a good phot. best to all Alan
  5. 4 points
    DSiemens

    Pirate Ship Scavenger

  6. 4 points
    DSiemens

    Pirate Ship Scavenger

  7. 4 points
    exwafoo

    Gun Station

    Hi All A number of years ago, I bought the first copy of a part works magazine on building a 1/96 HMS Victory. The reasons were, it was only £1.99 (starter price) and it had some nice colour pictures for reference, some nice pieces of thin plywood (always hard to find in the UK) to be used as bulkheads. It also had a gun kit comprising barrel, carriage (in 3 pieces), trucks, capsquares, a length of brass rod for axels and some small brass nails to hold the capsquares on with. This has been sculling around in the bottom of my toolbox for a while now, so I thought I’d have a bash at a bit of a diorama in a bottle as a side project. I used oak strip from www.stripwood.co.uk for the deck and hull, and the Salt Box. The Sponge Tub was made from 1mm wide strip cut from a piece of veneer (not sure what wood), coloured black on one side then stained Light Oak. Similarly the Match Tub, although this was easier as it has a solid wood former under the strips. The Handspikes were carved from dowel and stained. The Rammer was bamboo stick thinned down with the rammer part turned and stained, similarly for the Sponge, however the head was painted white to simulate fleece. The Powder Scoop was bamboo stick with the scoop fashioned from pieces of styrene tubing and then painted; the Worm was bamboo with a coiled bit of wire painted black. I turned the Cartridge Case from a bit of Elm, as I believe the originals were. As to the gun itself, the carriage took a bit of rework to get the parts to fit and then be shaped so that it looked ok. The supplied trucks were enamelled metal, so I used them to get dimensions, and used these to turn some new trucks from Elm, as this was used in the real thing. Brass wire painted black was used to make the ringbolts on the gun carriage and for the lashing points on the hull. I carved the blocks from a length of mahogany strip, used some thin brass wire to strop them and used thin thread for the rope. Once in place I soaked the thread with dilute PVA glue to stiffen them in place. I showed them loosened on the diorama. The breeching rope was a thicker bit of thread; it was thick enough so that I could actually whip the eye (with a spot of glue just to make sure) after passing through the ringbolts. The small brass nails supplied to put the capsquares on were far too big so were replaced with smaller ones. The Capsquares were actually too big for the trunnions, (the barrel could fall out), so I shimmed them with some thin walled brass tube. All painted black. The bottle is a small spirit bottle, probably quarter size, about 6 inches long overall. The inside is about 3 inches long, with a top to bottom taper that caused a bit of fettling to get the deck to fit. It then took a bit of trial and error to get the deck fixed in position. CA didn’t want to know, I tried UV cured glue, but that was curing too quickly in the bright daylight (it does happen in the UK sometimes) so I used a couple of bits of Milliput in the end – not the prettiest solution – I would rethink this bit if I ever try something like this again. The stand is a bit of MDF covered in Oak Veneer, and the bottle supports are Oak strip. Turks Head knot to finish off. best Alan Test fit with a bit of Blutac to hold in place From the bad guy's point of view All bits in place From the other side From the top All in Again
  8. 4 points
    Then I proceeded to final assembly of the model on the slipway with the final installation of deck elements, fixing the rigging parts that should be fixed, drawing up the rigging wiring diagram and checking everything in general.
  9. 3 points
    I got the button set up. It's right on the home page. The donate button will take you through paypal where you can donate to the site. All funds will be used for the monthly costs of the site. Donations are voluntary. I will never set up a monthly subscription or membership fee. Our knowledge needs to be shared with all who want to learn for free. Thank you all for your support. Whether it's donations or content I appreciate you taking the time to be a part of this community. We will continue to bring the fun of ship modeling to all who want to learn. In figuring this out I found another fun tool. The home page will now have five random pictures from the gallery. It's fun seeing every ones work so I thought this added feature would be good to have. Other than that it's winter time lets get some build logs going.
  10. 3 points
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    I make the deck Artur
  11. 3 points
    IgorSky

    Constitutionen

    Good choice, Artur! Some time ago I was looking for drawings of this ship, but I found only the photos of the model from the museum in Bergen.
  12. 2 points
    exwafoo

    How to do water

    Hi Scott, I don’t think there is any best way to do sea. I’ve spent a fair bit of time out on blue water and I don’t think there are two places the same ever. At best it is a representation of the sea. If you look through the forum you will see a variety of ways, bare wood, painted wood, putty, Plasticine, resin, etc. Some have no sea, but put the SIB on a stand. Bob (shipbuilder) has excellent sea, but in a case, not a bottle. They all look good as a piece of art. I think the best thing to do is try a couple, experiment, and use the one best suited to yourself. I use Plasticine. Reasonably priced, non-toxic in a variety of colours that can be mixed to give the shade required. I tend to use blue, green, grey, black with white for foam. The ‘new’ formulation tends to colour hands, when softening it for use. I haven’t tried Daniel’s trick of melting it into place – might give it a go sometime. I use a variety of home made tools, left to right; · A bent nail in a garden cane with the head sanded smooth. · Bent Aluminium Rod in a garden cane with the head sanded smooth · Bent Aluminium Wire in a garden cane with the head sanded smooth · A length of wire coat hanger · An old stainless steel desert spoon with the edges cut away in a garden cane · A brass olive from a compression pipe joint with a piece of dowel tightly fitted in it, drilled through and mounted on a length of wire coat hanger – used as a roller Swab for cleaning the inside using acetone. After the ‘sea’ is in, I shape the surface. Think about where you want the wind from – this will be the direction of the waves (usually). Also the height of the wave, if you want full sail, then don’t have Force 8 size waves, the masts would not take it in real life. I shape the hull recess around the hull blank before any painting as the Plasticene will stick to it. With the blank hull in place, I put in the wake, dogbone, etc, caused by the hull, foam on the wave crests etc. Little bits of white Plasticene do for this. They can be smeared onto the wavetops and it doesn’t have to be even, there is no such thing at sea. In the example below, I have the wind coming from the port quarter. As I said, not totally realistic, but it sets the scene. Then I take the hull out and finish the build. If there is any assembling to be done in the bottle I cover the sea with gauze, to keep things clean, assemble, remove the gauze and put the hull in the recess. A bit of final adjusting of the Plasticene to hold the SIB and that’s it. Have fun experimenting Alan
  13. 2 points
    Just a small update. Had to figure some things out with the PayPal process but thats all good and the donation button is working great. A big thanks to all those that have donated. We have enough now to keep the site going for the next few months. Thank you every one! Also a big thanks to those that have added to their build logs. Its been an active last week or so. You all are awesome.
  14. 2 points
    exwafoo

    Gun Station

    Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. A work colleague suggested I name the pieces, so from left to right Salt Box - wooden box with leather hinges to hold a couple of cartridges - the salt soaked up any moisture Cartridge container - lidded wooden container used to carry the cartridges up from the magazine - usually by the ships boys, the Powder Monkeys Handspikes - resting against the cannon - substantial shaped levers used to train the gun carriage around Sponge Tub - filled with water - used to sponge out the barrel after a shot to make sure no burning debris before putting in the next cartrige Match Tub - conical, half filled with water. A fire precaution on ships. The burning ends of the match were fed through holes in the top. If knocked over the water put out the match. The match was used if the flintlock on the gun failed. Rammer, Sponge, Worm and Powder Scoop Happy modeling Alan
  15. 2 points
    Looks incredible. Shes going to be awesome in a bottle.
  16. 2 points
    Small advance forward over the weekend.Attached the decal to the stern overhang.
  17. 1 point
    exwafoo

    Black Pearl

    I get it in the local model shop. There is a good selection of packs of sheet. strips, rods and tubes. Its called Evergreen Strip Styrene, although there are other makes and its certainly available on the internet. I've found it useful for a number of things. Its good for building up small pieces like window openings, or making tops or cross trees, and adding detail like the wales. Not so good if the small piece requires a bit of strength. Having a length of the right size strip saves a lot of cutting. There are modelers that use it for moulding, eg, making lifeboats. I've never tried this myself. Some fun for the future perhaps. A few tips from lessons learned from mistakes. Drill holes or cut openings first, then cut down to the external size or the piece can split. I've got into the habit of drilling (with wood as well) a smaller than required hole and then opening it up with a cutting broach to the size required. I've had a lot less splits that way and it produces a smoother hole, good if thread has to run through it.. Think about gluing. Small pieces require a small amount of glue. Polystyrene cement comes in two forms, liquid or gel. The liquid can be applied with a brush or a thin metal tube and dries almost instantaneously; the gel needs very careful application and takes longer to dry. If you use too much of either on a small piece then all you get is a melted lump pf plastic. CA works, but I've found it will let go if the pieces are knocked later on. 'Break' the edges of the styrene, ie, take the sharp edge off, or paint will not stick well to the edge. The Discs that John Fox III sells show how he uses styrene on some of his SIBS. I picked up some good tips from him. Youtube also has some good 'How to' videos on Styrene modelling - search under 'Styrene Modeling' Hope this helps a bit Alan
  18. 1 point
    Many thanks Daniel, Leff and Onni! Now I have almost finished making the model itself. But I'm going to put it in a bottle, most likely during the Christmas holidays.
  19. 1 point
    That is a fantastic model,in or out of the bottle. your attention to detail is amazing.Great work. Look forward to seeing it in the bottle. Onni
  20. 1 point
    I concur she will look grand inside of a bottle!
  21. 1 point
    I noticed that this topic is rather old but what started me off on building SIB was the mother-in-law. Yeah I know that sounds daft but she returned from London in the 80's with the 'Cutty Sark' in a bottle. My concern was how much she had paid for this rather tatty ship in a bottle. I told her there and then that I could make a better model than she had bought so she said 'make one then'. Needless to say my first attempt was terrible and ended up in the bin but I'd caught the bug and after getting hold of some books on the subject I was away...... Still learning though......... Onni
  22. 1 point
    exwafoo

    Constitutionen

    Going to be a nice one to follow. Talking of old magazines, this link may be useful in the future. Some do have plans for model boats. http://meccano.magazines.free.fr/ Best Alan
  23. 1 point
    DSiemens

    Pirate Ship Scavenger

    Discovered a new technique that will help get this ship into the bottle. Rigging made from paint brush bristles stays straight even it it's not glued on both ends. Using that I should be able to put masts in one at a time. Still working out the running rigging but it should work.
  24. 1 point
    DSiemens

    Constitutionen

    Your off to a good start. I'm sure you'll get her in. The split hull idea will help a lot.
  25. 1 point
    IgorSky

    Gun Station

    Well done, Alan! My congrats to you!
  26. 1 point
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    DSiemens, I hope I can put him in the bottle. Artur
  27. 1 point
    Gwyl Blaser

    Small steel barquentine

    Nice work Bob! She looks great. Gwyl
  28. 1 point
    Artur

    Constitutionen

    Igor, thank you for the photos. I haven't found anything about it in the internet. They'll be for sure very helpful when I'll be constructing Constitutionen. When it comes to plans of the ship, they have been published in polish magazine "Modelarz", no. 2 and 3 in 1981. Regards, Artur
  29. 1 point
    Shipbuilder

    Small steel barquentine

    Thanks, It took just under 50 hours to build, spread out over four months. But I only worked on it for 39 days of that time. That included making the display case and carrying case. Bob
  30. 1 point
    DSiemens

    Constitutionen

    Great looking ship. Can't wait to see more.
  31. 1 point
    exwafoo

    free e book

    Came across this https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_Clipper_Ship_Era Alan
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