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exwafoo last won the day on June 17

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  1. I've come across a couple of articles that may help. The link below is to a google book page that shows the build of one of Bob's (Shipbuilder) models; The ESQUIMAUX, a steam whaler of Dundee in an edition of Model Shipwright. https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=6MycZCNIGqkC&pg=PA39&lpg=PA39&dq=dundee+steam+whalers&source=bl&ots=KdO7hfZbsj&sig=ZE065ohvxWScgZ_kk7H_gQF87S0&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj-qrblz4vVAhXlKcAKHXgkDqY4ChDoAQg_MAY#v=onepage&q=dundee steam whalers&f=false It won't be around for long as google change the contents regularly. This link is to an updated version that Bob has available on his website for a very small fee. https://payhip.com/b/ugnq Lovely model Best Alan
  2. Thanks for the likes and comments again. Went to see the latest Pirates of the Caribbean movie as well - a very enjoyable film. Disney used the wrong Union Flag again, but since when has the film industry let historical fact get in the way of a good story. I was noting details of the Pearl. I'll have to have a look for some stills. The SIB was good - it really would be a challenge and a half to put one in a bottle with real water. Al
  3. All, Thanks for your interest, kind comments, questions over the SIB and concern over my hand. I was moving a large patio plant tub by tipping it on edge and rolling it like you do with a barrel and got my hand trapped between it and a wall. Bruised,swollen and stiff for a while. The stiffness lasted, making holding small bits hard, but its just the pinky now, not much use for modeling anyway. I've uploaded some more phots, one with a ruler to show size. I basically measured the inside of the bottle and shrunk the plans to suit, so I haven't actually got a scale. I've started the mainmast, but its only loosely put together to show a general make up, no glue as yet other than the styrene top. A trial cannon on deck - it needs to be a bit higher I made up a couple of jigs a few years ago for making Hinckley Hinges. There is a mast drilling jig in ‘Ship Models in Glass’ that allows accurate drilling. I adapted this so an off centre hole could be drilled. The male and female halves of the hinge are started in this. A line of holes are centre drilled in one piece (female) and then the offset is used to drill a line of holes, then the mast is rotated through 180 degrees and another line of holes is drilled producing the male half. The second jig is a piece of square section brass with a screw to hold the work piece and the end formed at 45 degrees. A 0.5 mm wide saw blade is used to clear out the female half with the jig guiding the cut to 45 degrees. The sides of the male half are trimmed down and the mitres cut. A bit of fettling to get the fit, I then used the sanding jig to reduce the thickness to 1.mm. If anyone wants the full article I wrote on this for Bottleship, PM me and I'll send it on. The cabin windows were cut from styrene sheet. I crosshatched a piece of thin clear sheet from a bit of packaging with a sharp blade, coated it with black dry marker, let it dry and then wiped off, leaving the scores black. Coloured the other side yellow, and glued to the window frames. The wheel is a watch cog. More soon Alan
  4. Thanks for the interest. Its a 75cl bottle (see top). SIB has progressed a bit, but not as fast as I would like. I clouted a hand in the garden and its taken a few weeks for the bruising to go down and my fingers to start working properly again. I'll post an update in a few days. Cheers Alan
  5. Glad to help. I was given a tip by a researcher in the Scottish Maritime Museum to add the word 'wreck' to a web search on a ships name as this generally generated more news space than anything else. Doesn't always work, but sometimes it pulls out info like this - http://www.wrecksite.eu/wreck.aspx?146721 Alan
  6. Searched under 'whaling barque Erik' http://www.mcmanus.co.uk/content/collections/database/erik-middle-ice http://www.mcmanus.co.uk/content/collections/database/arctic-ii-eriks-bridge http://www.mcmanus.co.uk/content/collections/database/erik-beset-ponds-bay http://www.mcmanus.co.uk/content/collections/database/broken-propeller-june-12 http://collections.rmg.co.uk/archive/objects/505926.html Give you a start Alan
  7. Have you had a look at www.rodlangton.com. I've got some of his 1/1200 ships on the slipway, and jumped straight in and put together HMS Victory. The hulls are white metal, so are the masts. Choice of white metal or PE brass for the sail. There are even PE ratlines and shrouds. There are also a couple of books on painting and assembly which are worth thinking about, especially the rigging section. I'm slowly building the 1/300 brig that I was given as a present, based on a cruzier class. I'll stick up some photos in a couple of days. There are buildings and harbour 'stuff' as well, and I believe there is a book of rules for gaming. The use of metal allows a certain robustness for constant handling, and of course, sib skills can be used to improve things. Alan
  8. Have a look at some of the Models Shipbuilder shows on the site. I'm sure he has mentioned some books etc, plus his own website and publications have a wealth of information in them. John Bowen's books Miniature Merchant Ships (ISBN 0-85177-659-0) and More Miniature Merchant Ships ((ISBN 0-85177-936-0) have a lot of plans in them, plus details and techniques for building them. Alan
  9. External hidden hinges! Superb idea. Thanks for sharing John. Alan
  10. Thanks for the like and a the link - I hadn't come across that blog before. It was the article on the City of Adelaide that caught my attention. I had the chance to look over the hull a good number of years a go when it was beached at the Scottish Maritime Museum at Irvine, unfortunately it was a 'Oh look at that - lets stop and get close' so no camera. Shortly after that politics kicked in over who owned it, who owned the land it was on etc and took years to sort out. I remember it doing a tour of some UK ports, Sunderland among them, and which wanted to restore itself as it was barged to Australia. I sort of stopped looking at updates after that. Their website used to have a PDF of a paper cut out City Of Adelade to be put into a bottle - it was for kids as the bottle is a plastic fruit juice bottle and the Sib is put in by taking the bottom of and then covering the cut with tape. Still, it may get some youngsters started in SIBing. Alan
  11. Copying this link from NRG site https://thechive-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/thechive.com/2017/03/21/norwegian-sailors-sing-awesome-sea-shanty-as-they-pull-into-port-video/amp/?amp_js_v=9 Alan
  12. If it wasn't for the figure, that photo could be of a real boat! Alan
  13. Charlie, Personally, I would choose the thickness depending on the scale of the SIB, and the particular part of the rigging, One of the problems I've encountered with threads is that each manufacturer seems to have their own method of description for thickness, number of threads, etc.so its hard to know off the reel the size. If you are unsure of the thickness, then get a thin piece of dowel, mark two lines round the circumference a known distance apart, say 2 mm, wind on your thread between the marks, counting the turns, then divide the number of turns into the 2 mm to give thread diameter (within limits). You may want to have a look at http://restore-products.co.uk/ecommerce/product/ultrafyne_polyester_120_s_sewing_threads/ I know they are the wrong side of the pond for you, but the thread is thin. Best Alan
  14. Dan, I've done some more work and had a start on the masts. The hull is split, you can see the blocks in the photo above with the elastic bands, and in the enclosed phots. The little stand is only a temporary thing. The masts are 1.5 mm thick at present, although the perspective of the maco shot makes them look thicker. Alan