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  1. 8 likes
    Now the building is almost completed. I'm going to put on the deck of a few bunches of firewood. And I need to come up anything with the stopper and the stand. And now you can see few total photos of the model.
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    Added a detail to the hull. Used diluted glue to attach the thread and coated it with clear sealer. At least another coat will go on when it comes time to do the complete hull.
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    Then I have painted the old man's clothes. I wanted to get an imitation of simple clothes from the canvas.
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    One set of two of this length completed. Going to try epoxy for the initial tackiness factor instead of water-based glue.
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    Moving along slowly, but surely. 18 winches made and fitted, two more warping winches to make and fit, and then onto more deck details - lifeboats, ventilators, ladders, rails, samson posts, mast, derricks, rigging, names, anchors, mooring bits, navigation lights. Bob
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    Hi, For my first project I decided to try a small sloop. I found a nice 50 ml bottle and the results of my efforts are documented in the pictures below. I could not have completed this project without the great resources this site provides. Walter
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    Today I spent a little time on the marker lights but focused more on test fitting the seas and test fitting the hull. I made a few decisions on moving forward. I decided to build the model “Ralph Preston style” so I can get more detail into the model regarding the running rigging etc. Each of the 5 masts will be inserted separately moving from stern to stem one at a time. I had to build a special insertion tool today to test fit the upper deck section of the hull to the lower part of hull as there are two parts to this hull build. Tool fits into hole where bowsprit goes. This way I can reduce the amount of lines to mess with coming out of the bottle neck so each mast, yards, rigging etc. are in modules. So there will be no folding masts utilizing the Hinkley hinge as most builders tend to do. The build will take longer however I am in no rush whatsoever. So that's it... Steady as she goes!
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    Over the summer of 2016 I was fortunate enough to be involved in the restoration and re-rigging of the full size three masted full rigged ship Wavertree, an historic iron hulled Museum Ship owned by the South Street Seaport Museum in Manhattan. I made some good friends among the riggers but at the end of the project we all have gone our separate ways. As a way of expressing gratitude for the shared experience and comradery I got form working with these people, I decided to make some of them Ship In Bottle models of the Wavertree. But I didn't want to go too crazy so I decided to make the models small modest and easy to make. I had seen a Ship in Bottle model made in a mini liquor bottle at the the Noble Maritime Center in Staten Island ( they have a pretty good model collection) and it stuck in the back of my mind that I should try making a tiny S.I.B. model one day, so this was the perfect opportunity. I'm starting this build log November 10th 2016, lets see if I can finish these models by Xmas. Here is a photo of Wavertree taken over 100 years ago in San Fransisco. If you are curious about what it was like rigging the Wavertree, here is a link to my flicker page which has over three hundred photos I took while working on the ship: https://www.flickr.com/photos/140039433@N06/sets/72157671511288900
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    I have now made the 14 small cargo winches. It took about three hours, spread over three days to do this. They look a bit rough close-up, but on the model, they look fine. I now need to make two large winches, two warping winches and the anchor windlass. Not very difficult, but a bit tedious making all those small parts, and then assembling and painting them. In the image above, I have not yet fitted the winches. Bob
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    The channel boards have been challenging to make at an acceptable scale. I found a black plastic that I’m very pleased with. I believe it can be worked to any practical dimension. It’s very tough, not brittle, and drills cleanly and since it’s black, a painting step is eliminated. The sample of one board in the photo is pegged, as they all are on this model. David
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    Sizing things up; nothing glued down, of course. The camera brings out the imperfections that my glasses deny. While applying the black paint against the deck color the words "the enemy of good is better" kept going through my mind.
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    Hi, I found the ship below docked at Belford NJ and thought it would make a good subject for a SIB. Below are the results of my efforts. Walter
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    In long time I wanted to try make the basket. On this time I have done it. The diameter of this basket 7.5-8 mm.
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    I have now made more progress with the hatches, deckhouses, and after accommodation fitted. Also fitted the side stanchions on the port side of the after accommodation this morning. This one is taking an age to build - have been at it since November, but didn't do anything at all on it for over three months Bob
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    Another one almost done. Not sure that you can see it but I found a technique to do thread anchors. I used some surgical clamps that lock and locked the thread in to that it looped around. I put a little glue on it and let it dry so the rounded part would stay. Once that was done in glue on a straight piece of thread and cut the round parts back as needed. I'll have to get some pictures.
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    https://youtu.be/DlxcOzGVagw. Try this again.
  19. 4 likes
    Hello to all!Two weeks ago I started another small project in a bottle. This time it is a model of the pilot cutter Jolie Brise. This boat I like for a long time and now, finally, I "matured" for its construction. More or less suitable drawings of this boat, I never found. Found only the theoretical drawing of the hull and the general scheme of the sails. Also I found in the network a number of photos.Well, and a suitable bottle was found.A little of the history about Jolie Brise - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jolie_Brise
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    Well it’s been quit awhile since I have had a chance to hobby. My Father-in-Law passed away suddenly from Parkinson’s disease and my Aunt Sadie passed away as well. We expected the passing of my Aunt but not my Father-in-Law. So it’s been pretty solemn around here lately. It’s been really hard on the Vice Admiral. Work has been really busy as well so I apologize for the long lag. I started on the 5 cross tree’s for the lower masts and completed them. I also built a special ergonomic workstation to alleviate some stress on my back when working hunched over on small parts. The cross trees are made from paper glued to thin card and then paper for the supports and end trim. Cyano in combination with white glue worked well here. I also started on the upper mast cross tree's complete with spreader bars and cross braces. I had to build a jig to fabricate them and there are 5 in total to build. I find working at this scale I am constantly fabricating part holders of some sort! Above is my raised work platform to save my back! It's built from an old electric fireplace glass cover holder. Above 1 of 5 for lower masts. I still need to turn a taper on the upper section of this mast. Piano wire soldered to the brass pipe. 0.39" twist drill to show scale. Above is the plan drawing of the upper mast cross trees with spreader bars. Bars keep yards from fouling with the back stays and running rigging. Above-Number 11 surgical scalpel blade to show scale. GS Hypo Cement works well here gluing stainless wire to paper. Wax paper in between to allow release of part after drying. I find a neat way to mark this small wire is glue it to waxed paper with cyano then mark the dimension to cut on the paper. More to come Lord willing ... Jeff
  21. 4 likes
    Oh, sorry, IOAN! I understood!!! I use wooden rulers as a material for making the hulls. They are made of beech, cheap and have no defects. So, I will continue Then I glued the gunwales.
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    Next, I glued the posts to the inside surface of the bulwarks. Because The bulwarks themselves gradually reduce their thickness in the process of sanding them from the outside, then their additional strengthening will be very useful. In addition, they will be very useful and to increase the area of gluing when installing gunwales.
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    Then I glued another belt of plating the bulwark from the black hornbeam.
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    Next update. On the bulwarks above the scuppers there is a narrow red strip. In order not to worry about drawing these strips, I decided to make them too from hornbeam.
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    I am one of the lucky recipients of a Wavertree SIB deftly crafted by Jersey City Frankie. I was thrilled to have been honored with one of Frank's creations as well as being grateful for his craftsmanship and jovial personality while we were rigging the full scale 12" to the foot" Wavertree last year in Staten Island. Please stop by and visit Wavertree at her new berth at South Seaport Maritime Museum and you might be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of Frank high aloft with ongoing maintenance jobs for a ship is never finished until its sunk. Thanks again Frank for this look into the building process of your gracious and very well received gift of a SIB Wavertree.. Jamie White Master Rigger Wavertree project
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    Broadly so look!
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    Features: LOA 8,9 m LWL 5,70 Beam 1,96 Hull weigt 1800 kg Upwind Soil 27 m2 Model is 1:137 Early:
  31. 4 likes
    I’m not going to use any type of putty for the sea for several reasons but here’s one. The oil-based non-hardening polymer clay would not have any gloss that would depict water and I couldn’t find any information about applying anything to make it glossy. My idea is to create the sea outside of the bottle and place it inside in two sections. This would be one of the last steps to do inside the bottle. I applied paintable acrylic sealant to plastic wrap as a test to see if I could model waves. I like how it turned out; it’s to scale. The thickness is only 1 to 2 mm. I’ll glue this sea to the wooden base, paint it, and divide the halves for the bottle insertion. I tested an adhesive for the plastic wrap and it’s good to go. The sea will only be 2 inches wide. We know how this goes… if it were wider, the sea would have risen and so would the ship. With this project right now, the tallest mast will only have 3/16” clearance when completed. David
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    Then I continued to work with the Fish - plaster, processing, making of "sword"
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    I've been asked to do a presentation on ship in bottle building at a library in town. To do so I needed something quick and easy so I started on this Bermuda sloop. I'll have to get more photo's later but what I've done is carved out the hull and planked one side. I left the other side unplanked to show how the ship goes together. I'm not sure I'll ever officially bottle this particular ship. I think I'll keep it for future demonstrations. I definitely need to bottle a good Bermuda sloop though. I really like these particular vessels.
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    Finished. I'll see if I can't get more construction photos of the next one.
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    I had pictured the masting and rigging to be fairly easy but now that I am into it I am realizing its a pain in the butt. The masts are sewing pins and the yards are wire thinner than the pins, all painted with white enamel. I cut a long horizontal ribbon of paper then I cut the sails to width from that. I cut an arc off the bottom of each one then I glue the yard to the top and trim it to length with nippers. I make three sizes of square sails to go onto two types of masts: The Mizzens are shorter and the Fore and the Main are the same height as each other but slightly taller than the Mizzen. The difficult and tedious part is the gluing on of the yards to the masts. I also have to put one naked wire at the bottom to represent the Course yard, I wont have Courses set on the models. The staysails WERE going to be simple triangles than it struck me I could pre-cut the arc that would appear in the foot of each staysail by using a paper punch and cutting the sails in such a way so that the foot of the staysail would corespond with a section of arc of one of the punched holes.
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    So, then it was possible to try to make the entrance tambour
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    Perhaps you can use a two-component silicone Encapso K with pigments for this purpose
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    Next, I cut through the deck in the places of the entrance tambours and lined the walls of the holes with planks. I do not know for sure whether there will be open doors in the entrance tambours, but, just in case, decided to refine these holes in the deck
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    Then I glued the steering plate. I was thinking of making imitations of fastening loops, but they are built-in on this boat and are unlikely to be visible under water.
  42. 3 likes
    Then I increased the keel in the stern part of the hull
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    Then I proceeded to planking the underwater part of the hull with the red hornbeam.
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    The boards also have narrow scuppers at the deck level. Therefore, I cut them in the parts of the planking of the boards, protruding above the deck before gluing the bulwarks.
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    Then came the turn of planking of the deck. I started with the central board and then I continued to cover the deck boards from the center to the sides.
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    Next, I proceeded to further processing the plates.
  47. 3 likes
    Copying this link from NRG site https://thechive-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/thechive.com/2017/03/21/norwegian-sailors-sing-awesome-sea-shanty-as-they-pull-into-port-video/amp/?amp_js_v=9 Alan
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    I have for my entire ship model building career always used artists Acrylic paint but this time I got a bunch of the small bottles of Testers plastic model kit enamel. I think its better for painting tiny details and the Wavertree has the black and white checker pattern on her hull and I assumed it would be easier to paint this in enamels then it would be with Acrylic, and it was. The hulls are wood, as I said, and then I put a strip of paper I had painted white on one side and black on the other and glued one on each side port and starboard as the bulwarks. Visible in photos above you will note some of the hulls have masts in place. These are sewing pins with their heads cut off and painted white. My intention is to rig the masts individually, off the models. The hulls will go into the bottles and the masts will be put into position one at a time with tweezers. I do not intend to use any rigging of any kind, I don't think the scale will allow it.
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    The ships are carved from basswood. I can't decide just how many of these I am going to make. As usual when you make a whole bunch of the identical part, you are always going to have a bunch of good ones then there will be two or three bad ones that are flawed. Keeping this in mind I am not thinking too much about the exact number of these I am going to make. Less then eleven? Anyway. I sanded the hulls then painted them with a water based sanding sealer product then sanded them again. Putting the sanding sealer on transforms the nature of basswood and turns it into a nicer wood to work with. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you all try the sanding sealer. You will be glad you did.