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Bottled Ship Builder

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  4. James w rogers

    HMS Terror

    That's looking really good, can't wait to see it bottled. 👍
  5. Made some progress I have started planking the hull. Slow going as I am also working on my Cutty doing ratlines. Deciding how I am going to attach the planking to the upper deck as this is the part that separates.
  6. Onni

    HMS Terror

    Added all the spars which I had made earlier and started the rigging and sail plan. Note also the chimney of the locomotive engine which propelled this early screw ship coming up through the deck.
  7. Checking some clearances just to be sure!
  8. Dr. Morrison has a nice demo on The Curiousity Show on YouTube. Keyword search Ship in bottle. Also see The Woodwrights Shop. Season 26 ep.1 also found in YouTube. I like the ice cream stick method because plasticine really stays soft and flexible so the ship can pull out. Glued to a ice cream stick in the bottom of the bottle, the ship is firm. Fair winds, Jeff
  9. Bruce, Have a look at the 'Rigging Wiget' PDF attachment I uploaded in the Bermuda Sloop Build. Its the method I use and gives good consistent results. Al
  10. D. Siemens: Wow just went to that site Wardroom you posted a link to. Fabulous art work. And I agree that it's not so much the actual or historical detail that matters as it is the aesthetic of the end product. And thanks for your input on this topic. Every little bit helps Addkitta, I think your ship is SWEET. Can't wait to see it in the bottle.
  11. That looks great. Your doing an awesome job. I like that your not afraid to go small with your bulwarks, rails, masts and yard arms. Gives the ship a more realistic look. I sometimes think you can tell a good ship in bottle because you could imagine yourself walking around on deck. I can do that with your model. I've never been on a real sailing ship either. Biggest I've been on is a day sailing dinghy which isn't much. It is kind of funny being from a land locked state in the US that I'd be so into sailing ships. There's just a sense of adventure to them that I like. The more you get into this hobby the more you learn. I happen to be in a ship modeling club as well with people that build the big static models. 1:50 scale or bigger sort of models. There is a tendency to get particular about historical details and scale in that group and I fall into that sometimes and build in that way but, my way is not THE way, it's just one way. There is room for all types of building in the art though so I think people should be as technical or not technical as they like. Ultimately it's about having fun. A great example is an Etsy shop I came across from a builder in Ukraine. Brenner is the name he has on Etsy and he has some of the most beautiful ships in bottles I have ever seen. They are artistically amazing. They are not at all scale, or historically accurate and don't have a lot of detail. None of that matters, they are beautiful. Here's a link. https://www.etsy.com/shop/Wardroom?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=696912513 Anyway that was a big tangent just to say build how you want, at your own pace, and have fun.
  12. Thank you very much for the informative reply, Admin. I have read the thread you quoted and found it very useful. I am attaching my attempt of making another ship. Please let me state that i have never seen a sailship up close. I have been on a motorlaunch once or twice in my life. And i am reading up on the lore of ships and the sea. I find the art fascinating and I am working on it. Slowly.
  13. The forum is very slow but not dead. There are a ton of different ratline methods. I've seen people use lace, or even photo etching. There's good and bad to all methods. I agree that lace or screening doesn't look the best and metal being hard is harder to get into the bottle. I haven't tried all the methods but I can tell you what works well for me. There's two parts ratlines and it maybe obvious but I'll point them out just so every one understands my terminology. The lines connecting the mast to the ship and run more or less vertically are called shrouds. The lines that work as ladders and run horizontally are called ratlines. Since I usually use the folding method the tightness of the shrouds is important for setting the rake or angle of the mast. So while some builders make their shrouds and ratlines separate and add them on to the ship after the two parts are combined, I put the shrouds on first then add the ratlines. I like to make my shrouds with a single line weaving back and forth from the ship to the mast. This makes tightening easy since I pull the line and move the mast back and forth to tighten the shrouds. Once the shrouds are tightened I tie down and glue down the last line. Then I move on to the ratlines. With the mast pulled forward and shrouds tight I glue on the ratlines. This can be done one by one or you can use a frame. Place the frame between the mast on the shrouds and glue the ratlines to the shrouds. I've used superglue and white glue. Both work fine. I will say superglue dries stiff so try not to use to much. Also if you get to much on the line it may leave a white blob. These can be painted over if needed. If you use white glue try using the frame to keep the lines in place while the glue dries. That tends to work well. Test the lines once the glue is dry to make sure they are secure. Then cut off the excess with follicle clippers. I describe this method in more detail in my Bermuda sloop build log and there is more pictures.
  14. as I said, i am just a beginner. But it seemed to work. This I have done in a plastic bottle. And fairly scratched one at that. The sea is another funny story, its made from "Rangoli" mixed in white glue water. i didnt have blue colour at hand so made green. i just wanted to get the ship inside the bottle just to see if it worked.
  15. Addkitta: Thanks for sharing your method with me. I'm hoping that because it's a holiday weekend that that is why there hasn't been more response,yet anyway. I'm guessing that you hang your ratlines after the ship has been erected, cause I'm thinking that your process would end up being pretty stiff when it's done. I mean that it wouldn't lend itself to folding down easily without coming undone when it comes time to slip the ship through the neck of the bottle. Or am I missing something?
  16. i guess the forum is dead. I am a noob, going through the old threads trying to get hints and pointers in my newfound hobby. The people who build ships in bottles seem very secretive people, They hide crucial steps and techniques. And they seem to be sad that their art is about to die... **** So i found this info elsewhere and i am using it. I make the thread hard by coating it with white glue and hanging it with a weight attached at bottom. Then I take a printout of the shrouds, and place the thread parts on it, or measure and arrange it on a diagram i made. Then stick horizontal lines with white glue again.
  17. It is remarkable that you are using the same pen throughout all those years 🙂
  18. Hi guys: Just starting up again after a 30 plus year absence. I can't tell you how much I love this site and all the things I'm learning from it. I just read a thread about dead eyes and thought for sure there are some neat ways you guys make your ratlines. In the past they have always plagued me. I've tried using metal and plastic window screening material but they don't look that great. So how about spreading your experience with me on your techniques. Thanks Bruce Foxworthy
  19. Hi Bruce, All. Plasticene. Gained fame when Aardman Animations used it to make the Wallace and Grommit characters. In the UK its trade name is now 'Newplast'. It comes in a variety of colours in 1kg blocks (which makes it expensive on shipping so I go to an art supply shop) however it does do a lot of SIBs. The block is about 12 x 2 x 1.5 inches in size and is made up from a number of ' round section rods/extrusions which can be peeled off as required. This is useful for mixing colour. eg, I take an inch of blue, and add, say, 1/4 inch of green and 1/8 inch of black. mix well.If this is the colour of the sea you want, that's the ratio to use. Adjust until happy. I only have blue, green, white and black. You do not need a lot of black to darken, its a very intense dye. Does not need baking, the heat of your hands softens it and it stiffens up when not being worked. Assuming the bottle is going to be on its side, I choose the best side of the bottle, then I mark on the outside of the bottle the level I want, keeping the lower seam level with the top of the sea. This helps hide it and moves the other seam to just the other side of the top of the bottle so that it does not stand out as much. I PVA a strip of paper with the ship's details, date of bottling, my details, etc on the inside bottom, with the print facing out. Once dry, the plasticene can go in. I use 'sausages' fed through the neck then flattened using whichever tool is best for the job. My new favourite is a length of stainless steel rod that detached from a badly made barbie grill, with one end bent at right angles, the ends having been ground flat and smooth. The glass can play tricks on your eye so have an occasional look through the neck as the plasticene goes in. Once the basic sea is in, then shape the waves, put the hull in, make the recess, add foam etc, and remove the hull. The plasticene never really hardens, just stiffens up, so grips the hull nicely during trial fits, but releases easily enough to get the hull out again. I tend to work with split hulls so the bottom can stay in when finished. I have started to coat the sea with slightly dilute PVA to give it a gloss shine. It takes a few coats. I also glue the hull in as well. I have always found holding the SIB in the bottle whilst working on it a bit of a problem. I acquired an Amati SIB kit at our convention (I'll do a build log eventually), and it shows way of holding the SIB in the bottle that I'm going to try. It consts of a 'C' shaped piece of brass on the end of a rod. The 'C' is the shape of half the hull, from bow to stern, with the other half being thread from the far end of the 'C', through a hole at the fwd end and out of the neck, the whole being a type of lasso. It would allow the SIB to be held, manoeuvred, positioned and then released. Excuse bad drawing, but it should get the idea over. Another method I saw on a video (can't remember which one) was to use a length of dowel between the SIB and the top of the inside of the bottle, basically just jamming it in place. (never tried this) I've never noticed the plasticene causing any condensation. I also found this link and I've been trying to work out if the stuff could be used in a bottle. AK water gel Have a good Easter break Alan
  20. Earlier
  21. Yeah. I'll move the ship all over the bottle in this process. Gravity helps too. Some times I turn the bottle upright and let the ship hang off of its lines. Once all the lines are glued down and cut off then I maneuver the ship to the sea base. Helps to have a piece of plastic wrap over the sea so you don't get putty on the yards or mast in the process.
  22. D. Siemens: A picture is worth a thousand words. Here I was imagining that you were hold the ship down in it's recess when actually you are putting it together completely away from the sea material. Now things are making more sense to me. I like it.
  23. I agree it probably is a chemical patent and they are all different. Definitely experiment and find what works for you. As far as the wire method. I use coat hanger wire so its pretty stiff. It does take some practice and patience. I do have a photo I need to add to my current build log. Notice the wire is placed just before the mast and holds the ship down. I'm holding the forestay line with the same hand I'm holding the wire with. I use my free hand to pull the line tight and work my tools. First thing I do is tighten the line where I want it to check that every thing is working. Second I loosen the line a little bit. With a second wire I put a dab of super glue on the line right in front of the thread block or hole the line is being pulled through. I pull that wire out and tighten the line. Since I use super glue this takes about five seconds. Last, once the glue is dry I go back with a razor blade on the end of a wire and cut the line. All of this is done with one hand on the wire holding the ship down and the other working the tools. The advantage is you can maneuver the ship to reach lines easier than you would if the ship was glued down. Also on a catastrophic failure you can cut the rigging and pull the ship out with out breaking the bottle.
  24. Bernard: I like your method here with the two part hull and think I'll give that a try. I"d prefer to have a solid stiff rigidly anchored ship before I start pulling strings because I like my strings pretty tight before I glue them off. D. Siemens, you mentioned that you are holding the ship down in place with a wire as you are pulling strings tight. I'm thinking that this method has to be practiced a lot because in my mind I see myself pulling the ship all around and out of it's seat. Typically I have a dental ( my sorter-outer/ organizer) pick on a stick inside the bottle the whole time I am erecting the rigging and positioning the sails so another wire tool inside and I'm assuming being held down with pressure kind of seems really difficult. Wonder if you have made a video of how you do this or know of one, using this method?? Getting back to the sea material issue, I'm trying to sort out all the differing ways they are being used in this thread. First of all I was thinking that folks were making typos but now I'm realizing that there are actually a variety of these materials available and being used differently. Here's a list of what spellings I've seen so far for what I was thinking was the same thing. Plastice, Plastaline,Plasticine,Plasticene. Today I ordered some Plastaline from Dick Blicks on D. Siemens recommendation. I also went to see what my local Michele's, store had and I found a clay by Craft Smart That's called Plastalina, a new spelling. The package says do not bake on it and the stuff is hard as hell in the package. I bought some to experiment with. Hopefully it will melt on the bottom over a burner and soften up by needing or putting in a baggy in some hot water so that I can spread it and work a sea up before it gets hard. The thing here, in my mind anyway, with all these different spellings is that these products are probably all patented. Each one has it's own particular chemical formulation with it's own particular properties. A rose is not necessarily a rose with this stuff. Looks like I'll be trashing a few bottles till I figure out what works best for my liking. It's enough to frost my scuppers. Thanks everyone for your input, it's much appreciated. Bruce
  25. Hi Bruce and welcome. A method I use with plastiline is to form the hull as if you were going to make a full hulled model but the bottom part is only about 1/8th of an inch thick. It attaches to the upper hull with the two pin method normally used for a full hull. I then stick the bottom to the inside of the bottle with an epoxy and when set place the plastiline around it and form my sea. I then find that when I glue the top to the bottom piece that it is very rigid and well secured. I sometimes use the bottom of the base to put the name of the ship on. If I do it along the edge I can put the epoxy in the middle and it does not cover the name. I then usually stand the bottle on it´s end with a wad of tissue in the neck to dry out. I usually leave it a couple of days and then insert the rest of the ship into the bottle.
  26. Just a Sharpie waiting to go in the bottle.
  27. My recent experiments have caused me to fall back on plumbers putty (window glazing would work also) colored with artist's grade oil paint. I would suggest Water Soluble type oil paints (Holbein and also Winsor and Newton make these) for easier clean up. They absorb into the putty relatively quickly and handles without mess in a day or two. Also one can mix a nice color with Ultramarine Blue and Viridian Green or other colors to match a nice sea. The base color of the putty is an off white which works well for waves. Plus it is a traditional way to produce a sea and I like sticking with traditional methods. I found a plumbers putty with a modern formulation for granite countertops that behaved quite nicely. I tried a modeling clay product but I don't like the color of the blue - it's more a sky blue than a sea blue. I tried to color this with acrylic paint but instead of mixing into the clay, it sort of sits on top of it and it never dried (acrylic paint usually dried in twenty minutes but this stuff made a mess!). I do use the brown modeling clay for backgrounds however. Guy Demarco's book has some good suggestions for making a sea and explains most of the methods that are mentioned in the previous post. Essential is to have a good stout rod of some sort to press the sea down and smooth it. Demarco suggest a bent knitting needle.
  28. Welcome to the forum Bruce. I too use Plastice modeling clay. I cut a little worm of blue and white. I twist together like a braid, the fold over and flatten and repeat like Damascus steel, until I get the color I want. Could be milky or total light blue. Then you slip it in the bottle and using tools, flatten it out. Make waves, touch in white caps if you feel the need. A demo can be found on The Woodrights Shop on PBS television Season 26, episode 1. https://video.unctv.org/video/woodrights-shop-ship-bottle/
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