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Bottled Ship Builder

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  4. Looks great. The pieces appear to have come together pretty seamlessly. Great work.
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  6. Looking forward to watching another build! Mick
  7. Did not have to make the crew. They all volunteered
  8. My understanding is Amati's kits are good. I finished the rigging on one of their USS Constellations and had a good time doing it. Their instructions were good and parts made well. Unfortunately I've found this ship in bottle kit has had more of an adverse reflection on ship in bottle building then it has on Amati. I've talked to at least two people that wrote off ship in bottle building because of the trouble they had with this kit. So I've been critical of the kit it self. It will be interesting to try it out myself. Then I do plan on a lot of kit bashing. I agree the bottle isn't amazing. Clarity is OK but I don't like the curved back very much. A different bottle would serve the ship well.
  9. Glad this has been pointed out before I progressed any further. I'm a bit surprised because Amati make a lot of ship kits and I would have thought that they would have made sure that things would go to plan before marketing it. Something like this can not do a their reputation any good at all. Alan PS Think I'll select another bottle - the one in the kit is not exactly the best.
  10. A friend of mine have me this kit and told me make it however I like just bring it back when it's done. So I'm going to kit bash this a bit. At first glance its simple enough. The box is way bigger than the parts inside. I suspect the bigger box is to protect the bottle. So far so good. The laser precuts makes cutting out the pieces super easy. I sugest using the keel as a guide when gluing the hull together. The instructions don't say that so I had mine mostly glued before I realised it was a tiny bit off. Sanding should fix it but the keel guide would be helpful. I do like how it's coming together in general. I'm curious about the brass fittings. I've heard others had trouble with them but we'll see.
  11. The other thing you could do is trim the mast hieght a milimeters or so. Between that and cutting back the hull I think you van make this work.
  12. Just started working on mine but I've known at least two other people that ran into the same problem. I did some investigating with my bottle, using a stick on a string I cut the stick down until if fit top to bottom where the ship would be. Your right on with the 86mm. So yeah if the ship is already 88mm and you have a 4mm sea its a problem. Luckily your using a clay sea. I've run into this problem before with another ship and decided that once the ship is in the sea no one is going to see the bottom of the ship. If you used resin they might but not with a clay sea. Get a dremel and take a couple milimeters off the bottom of the ship. It does mean cutting through the metal keel but if your careful it can be done pretty quickly and easily. Take the ship down to the waterline of you have to. No ones going to notice once its all in place.
  13. Hi All, I have a question, "Has anybody ever actually finished this kit???" I've been playing with my sea, and have come across an intriguing problem! The OD of the bottle is 90 mm, minus 2 mm? thickness of the glass, leaves 86 mm clearance inside the bottle. The ship, on it's supplied stand, is 88 mm tall. According to my calculations, it won't fit, especially using the supplied stand. My sea is about 4 mm thick, under the hull, and I don't want to find out, after I've poked Hanna through the neck, and glued her to the ocean, that the masts are too tall! At this stage, it looks as though I will have to remove my clay sea, and then do something else.(Plan C!) I'll have to ponder this!! Cheers Mick
  14. tazam0827

    Asgard

    I decided to make a little diorama and have the Asgard sailing around the Baily Light on Howth head on its way into the harbor. I decided I didn't really like the red wire I used to make the gantry and railing, but it was already in the bottle by the time I decided. Oh well...
  15. A museum in Hartford, CT contacted me about doing a sib demonstration. Since I am in the Carolinas, it is not feasible. So I am sending an inquiry to any bottle shipwrights in the New England area to see if there would be interested in doing a demonstration. Though the museum's budget is limited, they do have funds for local travel and demonstration fee. Time/date for the demo is fexible. If you are interested, please personal message me and I will forward your contact info to the museum's coordinator.
  16. Thank you Alan for the photos and explanation. I had misunderstood the use of the staple. Now I get it. I constructed the stir stick launcher. Jeff
  17. Hi Mick, Jeff, Mick, seems we had the same thoughts on the quality of the base and thanks for the info on the holder. Much appreciated. Jeff, as a picture is worth a 1000 words and is definitely better than my ‘sketch’ here are some phots show how I do things. Not the only way by any means, but may give you ideas. I’ve used a hull of a clipper that I am building to demonstrate, ignore the peg sticking out of the bottom, that's temporary for holding in a vice. The photos below show the brass staple in the stirrer stick. I drilled pilot holes in both the stick and the hull to ease the fit – there is still enough friction to hold. The photos below show the stick pinned to the hull. The recesses are for access to the rigging when the masts are fitted. I would cut away some of the stick to gain access to the forward one. I’ve also glued a length of thread to the stick and then tied it around the hull to help support it. Its easily cut away when required. The photo below shows the stick being removed by gently pushing a styrene rod shaped to a chisel point under the bow after the thread has been cut. I’m thinking about putting a dogleg in the styrene rod to make it a bit easier for access. The phot below show some of the tools I use. Top to bottom- Swab stick holder – a wooden skewer with some brass tube at each end (different angles) formed to hold a cotton swab. I use these with acetone to clean the inside of the bottle. Acetone removes plasticene (for the sea) and glue (both CA and PVA) that may have found its way onto the glass. I don’t think you are the only sibber to catch things when gluing up in the bottle. Brass wire – on a length of glass fibre. Used to push, pull, poke, lift etc. I’ve also used it to place small amounts of glue where required because the brass bends easily. Small brush – a small brush head glued to a length of brass mounted in a wooden skewer. I use this for touch up paints and glue (dilute PVA). The brass can be bent as required. Two glue applicators – the top one used for in the bottle. Its a sewing needle, bent as shown, mounted in a wooden skewer and with the head ground down to a ‘U’ shape to hold the glue. The one below is similar but straight and only about 6” long that I use outside the bottle. I’ve found that to reduce glue going astray in the bottle I have a ‘dry’ practice run to check that the applicator will reach where I want. I hold it horizontally with the ‘point’ towards me, and place the bend in the needle on the inside of the neck furthest from me as I (slowly) insert it. This helps keep it steady and the gluey point away from the sides. I’ve also tried using slips of paper to protect the control threads. If I do catch the side then a quick wipe with acetone gets rid of it before it dries – its quicker when its wet. Hope it helps Best for now Alan
  18. Onni

    HMS Terror

    Some new underwater footage of HMS Terror
  19. Hi, The original stand is MDF. I remade it in mahogany, then decided to place the ship in the sea. The tool supplied seems to hold the ship reasonably well. there is almost no weight in the ship, and the brass wire is quite soft and flexible, so it should be reasonably easy to poke the ship through the neck, and then drop it into the bottomless hole in the ocean. Plan A is to put some slow setting epoxy in the hole, and let the ship bed into it. Sounds easy!!!!! Mick
  20. I think I can do that Alan. I'm looking for a way to securely hold the hull. My tweezers usually get caught up in the forward rigging. You break off the piece attached to the keel or slide it off? I have pusher that has a hole on the end that the end of a bowsprit usually fits in. I can see pushing off with that. Are you setting directly into adhesive? It would seem a break off would be ideal. In theory. Last ship, I tried to put adhesive in after the ship was in the bottle, and got some on the lines in the bottle neck and lost individual line control. I don't know what I was thinking. Huge brain fart. On second check with a real stir stick, I can't see cutting or breaking it off in the bottle- UNLESS it was mostly cut, but not quite. Set it on a glued down Popsicle stick with adhesive. Snap it off, with little force, maybe by pushing pushing forward and back once set. My tweezers usually get caught up in the rigging. I'm looking for a way to securely hold the hull. Thank you Alan
  21. Jeff, I've started this kit (raffle prize) but its on the back burner at present, so I've yet to try using the tool. It looks as if it may be useful, as long as it doesn't slip. What intrigued me more than anything was that some bits of the kit are what I would class as cheaply done, e.g; the stand supplied for the ship shown in the photo above is MDF and could easily, and far more pleasing, to have been hardwood. I have replaced it with oak. However, the tool supplied is made from a very nice piece of hardwood and brass rod and is disposable assuming the kit is a once only build. I've had the same problems holding the SIB once in the bottle. When I did the Colvic Watson, (see build logs) I stole and amended a method that John Fox III showed a few weeks ago. No photos unfortunately, but an electronic sketch is shown, I used 3 wooden coffee stirrers, slotted and CA glued as shown to follow the curve of the bottle. The SIB had two small pegs as shown (black) which passed through holes in the stirrer. These turned out to be a bit loose so I secured the hull by using a staple made from 0.5 mm brass rod, the points being sharp and just long enough to grip. Realistically, there is not a lot of weight to worry about. I had to re-enforce the stirrer joints with more glue a couple of times when it let go - I still think these are impregnated with something that affects the 'stick'. The supporting stick was cut away where necessary to accommodate the control strings. Anyway, it actually worked well during launch, allowing masts etc to be positioned, glued and so on. When all was done, I released the SIB by gently levering out the staple with a length of plastic rod formed into a chisel point, then glued the SIB into the sea recess. Lots of room for improvement, but I'm certainly going to use this method again. Best for now Alan
  22. Great work Igor. Old Man and The Sea was one of my favorite stories in high school.
  23. Looking great. The styrene on the masts was a good idea they look really good.
  24. It seems to be working for me. The donate button is set up through Paypal. It shouldn't matter if you have a Paypal or not but maybe it does. Do we know if he has a Paypal account?
  25. Hey, Micky, 1. Looks nice. 2. The coat hanger and string launch tool- does that grip good? I ask because I have a hard time holding on to my vessels once I get in past the neck. It's want to forge my own tools. Jeff
  26. Hi and welcome. Jeff. 40 years of trying (every 10) to complete my first ship in a bottle.
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