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  2. Black Pearl

    I get it in the local model shop. There is a good selection of packs of sheet. strips, rods and tubes. Its called Evergreen Strip Styrene, although there are other makes and its certainly available on the internet. I've found it useful for a number of things. Its good for building up small pieces like window openings, or making tops or cross trees, and adding detail like the wales. Not so good if the small piece requires a bit of strength. Having a length of the right size strip saves a lot of cutting. There are modelers that use it for moulding, eg, making lifeboats. I've never tried this myself. Some fun for the future perhaps. A few tips from lessons learned from mistakes. Drill holes or cut openings first, then cut down to the external size or the piece can split. I've got into the habit of drilling (with wood as well) a smaller than required hole and then opening it up with a cutting broach to the size required. I've had a lot less splits that way and it produces a smoother hole, good if thread has to run through it.. Think about gluing. Small pieces require a small amount of glue. Polystyrene cement comes in two forms, liquid or gel. The liquid can be applied with a brush or a thin metal tube and dries almost instantaneously; the gel needs very careful application and takes longer to dry. If you use too much of either on a small piece then all you get is a melted lump pf plastic. CA works, but I've found it will let go if the pieces are knocked later on. 'Break' the edges of the styrene, ie, take the sharp edge off, or paint will not stick well to the edge. The Discs that John Fox III sells show how he uses styrene on some of his SIBS. I picked up some good tips from him. Youtube also has some good 'How to' videos on Styrene modelling - search under 'Styrene Modeling' Hope this helps a bit Alan
  3. Black Pearl

    Beautiful styrene work. Ive always tried beating my head in by using strips of wood instead of the styrene but this looks easier to work with. Where do you buy your styrene from? Thanks
  4. a lovely bit of miniature work. Alan
  5. Thanks! Tungsten monofilament.
  6. Earlier
  7. The longer a wine that has the right ingredients

    This is great information on wine. You have a real expertise on it. However since it is wine related instead of ship in bottle related I moved it to the off topic section. It was a close call ships in bottles and wine are very closley related.
  8. Remember that the labels of the bottles can be very important when you are choosing wines, because you will be able to find one that has the descriptions of the various tastes that you are looking for. When you are drinking a dry wine, you are going to want to be eating foods that compliment this wine as well. Therefore, if you are looking for a good dry wine, you want to find one that has a lot of rich and woody flavors, and one that has been in the bottle for a very long time. With wine, it is simply a matter of taste-testing until you find the type, the color, and the flavor that fits you the best. You might be able to find one for a much cheaper price than you would think. For the most part, dry wine can be PET bottle either red wine or white wine. This will complement the flavor much better. With each wine, the exact color, taste, and bouquet is very important. First of all, the taste is mostly found in the ingredients. The drier that a wine is, the richer it is going to feel while you are drinking it.A person who is interested in wine will have a lot to say about dry wine. The dry wine is going to have more of a full bodied flavor, with lots of rich types of ingredients. In all wines, there is a certain amount of things like fruit, floral, and other types of flavors. Some of these foods are rich meats and fish as well, although when you are looking at fish you are going to want to have a dry white wine and not a red one. Another aspect in the making of dry wine is going to be the length of time that it is set in the bottle before it is actually drunk. The taste is what makes a Aluminum jar dry wine actually seem to be dry. The amount of time is part of what makes a wine either dryer or sweeter. The longer a wine that has the right ingredients is in the bottle, the dryer it is going to get. Remember, also, that price doesn't have to be the best judge of a good dry wine. The taste of the dry wine comes from many different areas. When a wine is a dry wine, there is going to be a bitter and almost thick taste to it, as opposed to wine that is not a dry wine, otherwise known as a sweet wine
  9. Onni

    Some of my creations.....
  10. How to do water

    Hi Scott, I don’t think there is any best way to do sea. I’ve spent a fair bit of time out on blue water and I don’t think there are two places the same ever. At best it is a representation of the sea. If you look through the forum you will see a variety of ways, bare wood, painted wood, putty, Plasticine, resin, etc. Some have no sea, but put the SIB on a stand. Bob (shipbuilder) has excellent sea, but in a case, not a bottle. They all look good as a piece of art. I think the best thing to do is try a couple, experiment, and use the one best suited to yourself. I use Plasticine. Reasonably priced, non-toxic in a variety of colours that can be mixed to give the shade required. I tend to use blue, green, grey, black with white for foam. The ‘new’ formulation tends to colour hands, when softening it for use. I haven’t tried Daniel’s trick of melting it into place – might give it a go sometime. I use a variety of home made tools, left to right; · A bent nail in a garden cane with the head sanded smooth. · Bent Aluminium Rod in a garden cane with the head sanded smooth · Bent Aluminium Wire in a garden cane with the head sanded smooth · A length of wire coat hanger · An old stainless steel desert spoon with the edges cut away in a garden cane · A brass olive from a compression pipe joint with a piece of dowel tightly fitted in it, drilled through and mounted on a length of wire coat hanger – used as a roller Swab for cleaning the inside using acetone. After the ‘sea’ is in, I shape the surface. Think about where you want the wind from – this will be the direction of the waves (usually). Also the height of the wave, if you want full sail, then don’t have Force 8 size waves, the masts would not take it in real life. I shape the hull recess around the hull blank before any painting as the Plasticene will stick to it. With the blank hull in place, I put in the wake, dogbone, etc, caused by the hull, foam on the wave crests etc. Little bits of white Plasticene do for this. They can be smeared onto the wavetops and it doesn’t have to be even, there is no such thing at sea. In the example below, I have the wind coming from the port quarter. As I said, not totally realistic, but it sets the scene. Then I take the hull out and finish the build. If there is any assembling to be done in the bottle I cover the sea with gauze, to keep things clean, assemble, remove the gauze and put the hull in the recess. A bit of final adjusting of the Plasticene to hold the SIB and that’s it. Have fun experimenting Alan
  11. MOVED from - RMS St Helena ex Northland Prince

    Just a small update. Had to figure some things out with the PayPal process but thats all good and the donation button is working great. A big thanks to all those that have donated. We have enough now to keep the site going for the next few months. Thank you every one! Also a big thanks to those that have added to their build logs. Its been an active last week or so. You all are awesome.
  12. Many thanks Daniel, Leff and Onni! Now I have almost finished making the model itself. But I'm going to put it in a bottle, most likely during the Christmas holidays.
  13. Black Pearl

    Fantastic work. I love how detailed you made it. By far the beat Black Pearl I've seen at this scale.
  14. That is a fantastic model,in or out of the bottle. your attention to detail is amazing.Great work. Look forward to seeing it in the bottle. Onni
  15. How to do water

    There is a ton of different techniques. My personal favorite is plastaline clay. Its oil base so it stays maliable and melts at 150 fahrenheit. I roll it out and cut a piece to go into the bottle then carfully roll it so it doesnt stick together and get it in. From there I separate it and use long wires to flatten it in the bottom of the bottle and shape waves. Once its in place I'll hold the bottle a burner on the stove for about ten to twenty seconds. Just enough so the plastaline at the bottom next to the glass melts. Then let it set and cool for a little while. Once cool the sea stays in place. You can add wakes by either painting or using white plataline clay and pushing it into place. What I like about it is its less messy than putty with paint in it. Plumbers putty is also good. I've seen great things done with resin but I've never tried it.
  16. Pilot cutter Jolie Brise in a bottle - Scale 1/240

    I concur she will look grand inside of a bottle!
  17. How to do water

    Hi Scott, You can use the old tried and true technique of window putty mixed with oil paints. The latter has been used for at least 70-80 years. The putty however takes a really long time to dry. If you look at my Preussen build here on this site I use a different technique by carving individual pieces of wood, then using modelling paste and gel, then painting it with acrylics. If you Google a few of the model railroader sites they have some awesome water techniques however our dilemma is getting the water into the bottle.
  18. Hello All, I am brand new to building Ships in Bottles, though I have been fabricating models in other industries for years. What do people use to make realistic water? Thanks! Scott
  19. I noticed that this topic is rather old but what started me off on building SIB was the mother-in-law. Yeah I know that sounds daft but she returned from London in the 80's with the 'Cutty Sark' in a bottle. My concern was how much she had paid for this rather tatty ship in a bottle. I told her there and then that I could make a better model than she had bought so she said 'make one then'. Needless to say my first attempt was terrible and ended up in the bin but I'd caught the bug and after getting hold of some books on the subject I was away...... Still learning though......... Onni
  20. Hello from Southern Finland

    Welcome Onni !
  21. Hello from Southern Finland

    Welcome aboard!I like!
  22. Hello from Southern Finland

    Looks like some nice work. Alan
  23. Black Pearl

    Hi All, Time for a bit of an update. More or less finished, as far as I want to go anyway. I need to make some guns, anchor, and the figurehead. I've started the rigging, hence it still looking like a limp washing line, might have a rethink on a couple of bits of this - I'll see how it goes. One thing I have found is that working with all black makes for hard work seeing the rigging against the ship and sails. It really does need a bright light. Also hard to get a good phot. best to all Alan
  24. Hello from Southern Finland

    Welcome. Great work!
  25. Hello from Southern Finland

    Welcome aboard, Onni!
  26. Hi,I started building SIB around about 1985 but stopped about 1992 as family and children took up all my time! Restarted again in 2010 when I joined a local modelling club near where I live. It was like starting from scratch and I am still learning all the time. "Sailing in Glass" was my main reference when I started and I have made all the examples in the book.Photo is from 2013 when I had an exhibition in the local Library of my work. Onni.
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