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Bottled Ship Builder

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  2. I like that jig. I think I have enough material to create this jig, after busting up my 2 jigs. 😀
  3. Today
  4. Nice painting! Some of my favorites there! Sure are pretty. I've tied, and used most of them. Ok. Back to your regular programming.
  5. This one comea from Don Hubbards book Ships in Bottles. Whats good about this is it raises the ship up. One of the problems I've had is builing looking down at the model gives me a bad neck ache. Raising the ship up helps that. I did my own variation. You can see it in this article. https://piratesurgeon.com/pages/other_pages/mercury_bottle1.html Basically the same but in a box. I needed to transport my ship to model ship meetings and having it in a box was useful. The top of the box is very high so the masts fit inside.
  6. Thanks Jeff. I've painted a few flies but never tied them. Steal their box for SIBs?
  7. Here's a couple of jigs. Put the ship on either end. Whichever is easiest to work on at moment. Run lines through finger slices of 3 x 5 card (movable) to keep them organized. Very portable. Kitchen table, workbench, one room to another. I have a fishing tackle box for tools and some metal cookie tins for other important items (and they all are). Best regards, Jeff
  8. Yesterday
  9. I'm interested in building a box, or jig, or platform from which to build SIBs. I've seen a few in build logs and could use some advice. Curious if you folks have any pictures, pros, cons, tips, things that make life easier when building etc. Thank you!
  10. Last week
  11. She floats! Now that was a tight squeeze 😂. Hull is now glued down with pva, once that has dried I will start to fit the masts and shrouds and sails one set at a time starting with the mizzen, then the main, and finally the foremast.
  12. This is good to know. I've had some offending super glue marks that I've picked off with a razor blade on wire but I think acetone will make it much much easier. Thanks Alan.
  13. Hi Dan, A mile high? The highest we have in the UK is Ben Nevis at just over 4000 ft. Climbed it once in the days of my youth. Right! Bottle cleaning. I made a tool, one end of which is shown at the top of the photo below. Its a bamboo skewer about 15 inches long, with 2 pieces of brass tube bent and pushed on the ends ( the end not shown has a sharper angle). The inside diameter of the tube is just large enough to take the end of a cotton swab, I crushed the tube a bit to give grip. The different angles allow access to all of the inside of the bottle. Dip the swab in acetone, insert in bottle and scrub the offending water stain, glue (including super glue), sea, paint etc. Replace the swab when dirty. I've found this works well. I've stopped buying acetone from a pharmacy because its a lot cheaper to get it from a cleaning equipment supplier. Note the wooden swab stick. Besides being bad for the environment, the plastic ones will soften in the acetone. Best Alan If you
  14. I used to have that super power too. I was near sighted from 2nd grade and wore glasses and contacts most my life. Building Sibs I'd push my glasses down and look over them. I could see anything up close with no trouble at all. Last year I got Lasik and lost my super power. Now I'm using magnifiers like the rest of the "normal" people.
  15. Thanks for the advice Alan. I'm going to look that stuff up. I don't normally have a problem with super glue. I've used it on a lot of my ships in bottles and typically as long as I don't bottle it seal it for about 15 minutes it's no an issue. I think what little fog I got on this one had to do with the smaller opening not allowing the fumes out and mostly because I had to use more than I normally would. Most of my ships are prebuilt and erected in the bottle. So I'll use three to four tiny dabs of glue on the bowsprit and that's it. Since this one had to be pieced together in the bottle I used quiet a bit more and had a small problem with fogging. I've cleaned it up and it hasn't come back. I do wonder to though if I have the dry and sparse Denver air to thank for that. My house sits over a mile high in elevation so maybe there is not as much air for the fumes to stick to on their way out of the bottle? Who knows. I am interested in the other type of glue though. I hadn't heard of using acetone to clean up the glass. Can you elaborate on how you do that?
  16. Hi All, A bit more on super glue. I’ve had problems using superglue in the past, I’ve not had fogging tho’. I know a couple of SIBers that use the air pump method and am bearing that in mind just in case. The Colvic Watson 28ft motor sailor SIB that I did had stainless steel stays and I used a silver thread to simulate them. The Superglue let go a couple of days after cutting off the excess line after launch. I suspect whatever the silver dye was, it reacted badly. I managed to bodge a repair, but it set me on the hunt for a ‘good’ glue. I came across the British Museum YouTube site showing conservation of various objects, and took note of what materials they were using. They use an Acrylic Adhesive called Paraloid B72. There is quite a bit of info on the web on its use. Its main benefit is that it is reversible with the correct solvent, that's why conservators like it. It seems to be used to stick just about anything to anything. You can get it in tubes, but reading up on how to use it, the best way is to obtain the granules and mix it. Sounds awful, but actually its not. I got 50 gms for about a £5 off of the interweb, I’ve since discovered it can be cheaper from conservation materials suppliers. Its like a handful of plastic beads. Its mixed with acetone (the pure stuff from the pharmacy, not nail varnish remover that has added lotions and so on), I use this for cleaning out any residual marks in bottles so had some around. Its mixed in a weight/volume ratio, eg 1gm in 10ml acetone gives a 10% mix and is recommended as a varnish. 5gms in 10 ml gives a 50% mix and is used as a glue. I’ve mixed up a 10% batch in a small glass jar (the kind that has the marmalade in it in hotels at breakfast) so it soaks into the thread nicely, and am using it on some rigging at present. I use a needle stuck into a small stick with the eye ground to a ‘U’ shape as an applicator. So, what's it like to use? It’s nice and fluid at this mix. I can dip an inch or so of thread in it for ease of threading through holes, and it will dry in a couple of minutes and completely harden after leaving it for a bit longer. I suppose I get about 30 to 40 seconds working time before it goes tacky enough to start ‘stringing’. It dries clear, and seems to hold well. If it starts getting a bit thick due to evaporation of the acetone, then add a drop more. This may be the glue to use in any restoration of an old SIB. A big bonus is that it doesn't stick to me! I’ve also used a 50% mix for sticking some thread to wood and wood to wood, seems to work fine, just not as instant as CA glue. best Alan
  17. Greetings, I know all too well how super glue will cause fogging of the interior glass surface, sometimes months or years after the bottle/bulb is sealed. I finally found a method to keep that from happening. After the model is completed, I run a small aquarium air pump with a small hose down inside the bottle/bulb and keep it running 24 hours a day for seven days. Since I started doing this I have had zero problems with fogging caused by the super glue fumes. BTW epoxy glue can do the same thing, and since I normally use both and white glue at various stages in building almost any model, I do the airing out process on all of my models that go into sealed containers. Hope that helps someone! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  18. Greetings Bruce, Love the story about the grocery store visit! I am fortunate, or not depending on your viewpoint, in that I have nearly miraculous near sightedness and need no lenses to work on my models. IN fact, I just had cataract surgery, and made sure the new lens kept me nearsighted, so I can continue to work the way I always have. I actually am so near sighted that I work without my glasses, take them off and put them down somewhere. There have been times when I had to call my wife to help me, as I could not find my glasses later when I needed them! <Grin> As to building larger, I have been doing the same lately, but for me it just means more experimenting to get tinier details in the larger model. Should really take some pics of my new work, a sandbagger at 1:96 scale, but it is a huge experiment in itself. I actually started the build by making a "plug" of the hull shape, and covered it with paper mache type layers of tissue paper soaked in thinned white glue. I've made most of my ship's boats that way, even have a video online at Vimeo about that method. However, this hull is many times larger, at about 4" long. I planked the paper hull while still on the plug, with maple veneer sanded down to .005" thick, as I don't think removing the paper hull from the plug would have worked otherwise. Your America is nicely detailed for it's size, you are on your way to the level of craziness that will someday beat my own! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  19. This is the sea after a bit of shaping, I will paint it when it is dry enough in a day or 2.
  20. Well, she's ready for the bottle. Now I need to put the acrylic in the bottle, this is my way of doing it. MOV_0067.mp4
  21. All done. Added a little flair to make it fun.
  22. Well my initial thought didnt work. I painted in the bottom of the bulb but the paint just wouldnt dry. I let it sit all night and it dried a little but it probably woukd take two or three days. After discovering that the original bottle had clay I thought I may as well try. I have quiet a few bulbs so if I lose one its not a big deal. Well the clay worked perfectly. I kept it flat like it was and even painted the wave lines in the same way. The hardest part was that this bottle has a much smaller opening than the original. The sails would not fit in one piece. So I ended up cutting off the largest sails and glueing them back on in the bottle. It was tricky but I got it. Heres a photo of the ship now in the bottle. I think because the opening is so small the glue fumes werent able to get out and its fogged up the bottle. I'll have to spend some time cleaning it out. I wanted to use a white glue on this because I know white glue lasts a long time and doesn't fume. Problem is I needed to glue the sails in the right place and couldn't hold them there long enough for white glue t setso I used super glue since it dries fast but has fumes. You win some you lose some.
  23. John Fox 111: I get that about experimenting. Seems like I'm doing that a lot myself as my builds go along. I just found a way to simulate little blocks on my rigging by just tying a piece of black thread around the ends of the sheets and it looks pretty cool. On this build too, I decided to try using polystyrene on a few things .. Totally new material for me to be working with. But little by little I'm getting used to it's applications and limitations. At this point I have concluded that I need to be building ships that are five or so inches long. This little America, has been a real challenge for me because of it's tiny size. I literally made my anchors out of pieces of black thread. I don't want to build this small again. Fortunately I just found a glass artist that can blow me the bottles I need for these bigger ships I want to build. What a lucky break. An interesting side note is that I have a magnifying head set with four interchangeable lenses of increasing power that I'm wearing all the time on this build. I recently found myself in a situation of being stared at when at our local Kroger's supermarket store while shopping for dinner stuff. I forgot that the dam thing was on my head. HE HE!! Which by the way was comically compounded by the fact that I also went to the store wearing my slippers. Hysterical!! My youngest smart ass son, soon to be Dr. Foxworthy tells me that I am suffering from," Old Man Syndrome," and the only cure for me is to keep doing what I'm doing. Isn't that a hoot? Thanks for your input on my project. I appreciate it especially from the point of view that your work is so magnificent in my eyes and I hope to measure up to your prowess one of these days. Best regards Bruce
  24. Greetings, Here's my take on this topic. 1.] Nothing is impossible, until I've tried every method I can think of and failed, 2.] Anything I've done once I can do again, if necessary. Thus, I sometimes take weeks and 3 or 4 tries before I find a method that works for me in making or assembling any of my models. And, if I break something while working on a model I know I can repeat building it since I did it the first time. I do experiment a lot while building, always searching for a better way, or a way that looks more realistic, so the above is constantly in my mind as I work through a project. That is one reason I do not write build logs for many of my models, they'd be almost never ending! <Grin> Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  25. I broke a mast putting a SIB ketch in the bottle before Christmas. It was a very tight fit, (bad planning) and I got away with it off the SIB as a trial, but once rigged, it broke. Back out, repaired, mast shortened a bit, and I'm getting ready for the next try. There will be a build log shortly. Its all learning. Basically I just found another way not to do it. best Alan
  26. Thanks Jeff: I get that. And it's nice to know that. Regards Bruce
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