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  1. Today
  2. To attache the jibs and still let them slide on the jib stays, I pre-punctured small holes on the luff edge of the jib with a pin and sewed them onto the jib stays with sewing thread. Flags were again typing paper folded around the main truck or the stay. I had a hard time keeping track of all the lines, so I numbered and lettered them and wedged them into slots cut into paperboard which was tacked to my stand, each slot labeled with the line number/letter. Later I resorted to taping little paper flags to the end of each line with the proper letter/number, but this made it very hard to untangle the lines once the got crossed up. I'll have to find a better method, or more likely, not have more than 10 or 20 lines!
  3. I was concerned that with the placement of the lifeboats, capstan, hatches and the cabin, and with the mast tops and cross trees, I wouldn't be able to fold the masts down flat to get it through the bottle neck if I used a wire hinge for the masts. I made the mistake of on the main mast and fore mast, trying to use the method of making a divot in the deck and a line from the bottom of the mast through a hole in the center of the divot to pull the mast into place. I planned to completely separate those 2 masts completely from the hull and putting them in the bottle separately, after inserting the hull with the mizzenmast. This meant that all the standing rigging like the shrouds and the backstays had to be moveable. I ended up with around 67 separate threads that had to come out the bottle neck and be managed. It looked great while on the work stand. For the sails I used regular typing paper stained in tea. I made the lines representing the stitch lines by scoring the paper with the point of a needle and a ruler. I made the reefing lines again with regular sewing thread. I wet the paper and bent it around a dowel to give is a little curve.
  4. Bruce, your mentions of my attempt with the Dimond are very kind and appreciated but very much undeserved! The little ship is in a lab bottle from a school that I found at an antique shop. The pinch bottle you've chosen adds to the old school feel of your build. I see that CA glue is something you're not afraid to employ. For me, I could never gather the nerve to touch anything inside the bottle with CA because whatever I'd use to apply it would become part of the scenery! Best regards, David.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Ordered the book online for $7.88
  7. Hey Paul, public library system, Amazon books, can buy it too. I found flat coffee stirrers at the market today! No more splitting, bending Popsicle sticks and flat toothpicks for this guy!
  8. Jeff, I haven't looked at Modeling Ships in Bottles. I'll go look for that now. Thanks for the tip! Paul
  9. I learned a trick or 2 just reading your build! Coffee stirrers! What a splendid idea! There is a post titled "how do you make Ratlines?" That shows the neatest example using a jig. i believe you can type "ratlines" in the search query and it will give help you find it. Nice work. Btw. Have you peaked at Jack Needhams, Modeling Ships in Bottles.? Heck of resource. If not for the 4 models or 5 models he walks you through, it explains the steps (which can be used for all ships) and lots of secrets- deck furniture, life boats, deck houses, etc. Best of luck. Jeff
  10. I then stained the deck with normal household wood stain and painted the hull with regular Testers model paint. Added a toothpick Bowsprit, a dolphin spanker made from a straight pin, and a toothpick spritsail yard. I let the spritsail yard pivot on the dolphin spanker for placement in the bottle. I drilled holes in the side rail for the 20 deck cannons, but found I cold not make the cannons small enough to fit through the holes, so I cut them into notches. I made the deck cannons out of little chips of bass wood and brass wire, but I had a heck of a time gluing them together and getting the paint to look decent. I know there are a few other methods on this site to make better looking cannons that I'll try next time. I made the other deck furniture from small bits of wood and wire and glued them to the deck. I made the golden eagle figurehead from the foil from a wine bottle. I added the martingale stays and the other lines on the bowsprit for which I used regular sewing thread, which I used for all my lines. I added the chainplates out of strips of coffee stirrers, which was the start of my downfall, because by now the width of my ship was almost 20mm, and my bottle neck was 19.5mm. more on that later. My masts and yards were all toothpicks. I think I tried using bamboo skewers towards the end. Straight pins for the trucks on top of the masts. I used various methods to attach the yards to the masts, but none of them gave me the movement I needed to pivot the yards parallel to the masts for insertion, mostly because I insisted on building the tops and cross trees on the masts. The method that seemed to work the best for attaching the yards was to use thread and make a cow hitch in the middle of the yard, then pass both ends of the thread through a hole drilled in the mast and wrap both thread ends around the mast and knot them, then hit it all of it with a drop of glue to secure everything. I saw a method of making thread blocks on another post that I'm anxious to try, but for this one I just drilled holes with my pin vise in the yard ends for the running rigging to pass through. I drilled the holes before I tapered the ends of the yards. I had a heck of a time getting all the holes to face the same direction on each yard, (some ending up parallel to the water line, some parallel to the masts) which caused me some problems during rigging. I'll need to come up with some sort of jig in the future. I had a hard time getting the ratlines attached to the shrouds in an even way. I ended up stiffening some thread with glue and letting the dry, then cutting the thread into short lengths, gluing them to the shrouds with super glue while the shrouds were on the masts, and clipping the ends with cuticle clippers. I'd be happy to hear any hints on a better way of doing that.
  11. Last week
  12. David : Thank you so much for the complement. Your build is stellar compared to mine and I'm still studying your process as I want to emulate most of your concepts in my next build. I think I've read your build three times by now. With respect to the glue fog, I can tell you it was a huge pain in the butt for me to clean up. Even so there are areas I couldn't reach without disturbing the ship and so they remain as a blemish on the surface of the glass. Pisser for sure. You might recall in my build discourse I made a point to say that the most minimal amount of gluing inside the bottle should be part of the overall engineering of any build because the fog factor of CA glue is, basically inescapable. With respect to that point, I believe it was Igor, who made the observation that between all the friction and the sheer weight of the clay on top of the lines coming out of the bottom and then going out of the bottle, gluing is nearly moot for him. That makes a lot of sense to me. He also mentioned that your technique was reminiscent of a guy named Bill Lucas's, builds and if you had read his book? I looked that book up on Amazon and if I remember correctly the paperback was like $164 or something like that. There were only two reviews on it and one was quite scathing. Apparently the guy doesn't use proper nomenclature let alone make a fluid sentence. But I'll never know about that as that kind of money for a book on our hobby is not only out of my league, it's flat out ridiculous. That said, Igor, did make a very good observation about the part of this guys process that makes a copy of the ships form and line layout for the master control panel. I mean so all the lines go into it and then you can't possibly be confused about what you are stretching. I like that concept and will probably adopt it for my next build, too. Anyway, I sure hope as I'm sure others on this forum do, that you don't just walk away from this kind of art. I think it was DS who mentioned one way or the other that you are a natural for it and certainly have an inherent gift for applied techniques. I for one can't wait to study another one of your builds. One more thing before this long winded old fart goes , can you tell me the source of the bottle you used in the build of Diamond?? I want one for sure. Best Regards Bruce.
  13. Looking good Tazam. Hope it all turned out ok.
  14. I glued 2 coffee stirrers end to end and drew the transom markings with a marker. This bled a lot and could have come out better. I attached the transom and carved it to fit, and that complete the hull.
  15. I made the decking by taking a bunch of wooden coffee stirrers, coloring the flat side black with a magic marker and gluing a bunch of them together, The black that seeped into the wood was just enough to look like the caulking between the boards. I glued this to the top of my hull and sanded it down about a millimeter or 2, and carved it back so there was a small lip on top of the hull. I then took a full width coffee stirrer, wet in and bend it and glued it on top of that lip to make the gunwales.
  16. Hi everyone. I've been a member on this site for a few years but rarely post. This build log is going to be for only my second ship, the Mirny. I built my first ship three years ago with moderate success. So of course, emboldened with beginners hubris, my second build was way way way too ambitious. This is a tale of a shipwreck, a salvage, and a relaunch. I know how the story ends because I was too afraid to write this log until it was complete, in case it was a total flop. I found these drawing on the internet, printed them out and scaled them with a set of calipers. I think the scale ended up being about 1:480. The hull ended up being about 75mm long and 18mm wide, and 210mm from the waterline to the top of the main mast. I carved the hull out of a small piece of bass wood, mostly free hand. I think I went through 3 or 4 blocks before I got a shape I was happy with
  17. I like this ship. It has great character. Oh, how true that is! Maybe a little detail to mention to observers of our accomplishments.
  18. I soaked the skewers in hot water and left them for a day and a half in the water. I found them much easier to drill. I also put a dab of superglue on the tips prior to drilling the mast top holes and at the mast foot for the hinge, so the wood doesn't crack while drilling.
  19. DSiemens

    HMS Gannet

    Beautiful. Well done. I agree the bottle neck shot is stunning.
  20. AuVox

    DSC02219.JPG

    Nice! Are these figures made of wire and then just painted? I've had good luck sculpting rudimentary "skeletons", dipping them in white glue (often diluted), and painting when dry. Sometimes I need to redip in certain areas to fill things out, but for tiny figures, it serves the purpose.
  21. Lubber, I found the origin of the plans for the Lexington today @folkartinbottles.com. The maker is Clay Rakes in a section labeled "plans" you can download them. You might be able see, the waterline Mark is quite clear. Hope you can do it soon!
  22. Whilst surfing the interweb today, I found the plans for this build @Folkartinbottles.com, the maker is Clay Rakes. There''s no name on the plans. I forget where I found them years back. Props to him!
  23. Thanks for this John. Looks like a good way that I'll use next build..
  24. I tried to drill a hole into the bowsprit with a hand drill and I can't. I'm using bamboo skewers. I'm wondering about the hinges on the masts. I might have to bring out the power drill. After an hour and 2 different bits, all I had was a divot. So I went with deadeyes. J.
  25. Onni

    HMS Gannet

    Hi Bruce. I am using a small hobby band saw with fairly fine small teeth to cut the hull in half. The deck I cut later (if I do need to cut it) because sometimes I manage to squeeze them in without the need to cut them. If I cut them,then I try to stagger the cut so that it is not directly over the top of the cut made on the hull.
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